CreX

Not sure why @iGrowDagga mentioned that... but to me, those plants are thirsty... id dribble some water around them

very nice! what do you use for the vids again? i wanna get a go pro for stuff like this

Ladies are starting to gain ground! They not as happy as the other 2 seedlings in the tote... Definitely happier than that poor cutting that I thought was ready to come out the Dome ... Lol its all but vrekked.. exciting change on the way if the tote continues as it is

any time my dude... it was good going into depth about it and i hope it makes more sense to anyone who reads it! and if you think im leading anyone astray or onto a wrong path... tell me so i too can better understand

yea haha , it is a bit smelly!! ... but thats okay... its not like fire juice where you can smell it every time you walk into the room haha, its just a shortlived whiff

https://www.burkesbackyard.com.au/fact-sheets/backyard-farming/water-works-pots-soil/ or you could use this experiment as well... it should work the same. you take a sponge and put it on its long side and then add coloured water to fully saturate the sponge. note what happens as per the link. the water gets suspended in the sponge much the same way coco suspends water you will have the little bit of coloured water sitting at the bottom of the sponge. Now add a second colour and see how it works. the first colour should be pressed out of the sponge by the weight of the new water, and there should be very little mixing of the two colours

a conclusive experiment would be to take coco, saturate it with a coloured food colouring... leave the pot to dry out a bit, and then feed the pot with a different colour dye and see how what colour the water comes out as. for exmple start with blue, and then when the pot dries a bit, use yellow. what im saying is going to happen, is that the blue will come out the pot first, as the same blue you put into the pot, and may fade to a green runnoff as the yellow mixes with the blue as opposed to the water running out as green from the first bit of runoff after putting the yellow water in

yo yo! 4500 lux is half what i use on my germinating plants... and even at 10k lux i get stretchy seedlings. your aim should be between 20k and 40k like prom suggested and then you will be good. 40k-70k for flower anything more than that is a waste without a perfect setup with C02

whats up man!! we would need to know what medium you are currently using, and if you have added anything yet? i know its not popular to use for weed... but you could top dress with a bloom slow release nute... these are very cheap and will defs work for your plant. otherwise most of the stuff you cn add, should be added before anything is growing in the medium. im finding TALBORNE fruit and flower, slow release pellets are doing great in my balcony garden and i feel they could do well for an indoor garden thats likely only going to get water fed to it the talborne stuff i found in Leroy merlin agriculture section

none of my qbs have heatsinks, and i can touch them all for as long as i want... so i rate those should be good enough

beautiful!! what a score man! what does the heatsink look like?

i didnt read this properly. but yes...that is exactly what im saying. if you have coco and no plant... you put in 5l of water @500ppm, if you flush the plant with 20l of water you will get all~ (95%) of the nutes back but the nutes will be in 20l now and the ppm will be much much lower... likely 125ppmish~

As the water dries, salts are left behind. correct. but salts prefer to stay in the dissolved form if there is enough water available. so as the pot dries out (which will take weeks without a plant) the nuts slowly fall out of solution and become salts again... but the bulk of the solution would sink to the bottom of the pot and then when it dries out would put more salts into the meduim, but at the bottom... which is why the bottom of the fabric pots tend to get a bit grimey and cakes with the salt nutes, and not the top of the pots. the coco cation sites get filled mostly by calcuim and potassuim, leaving little space for the other elements to be grabbed by the coco's cation sites. those other elements remain suspended in the water as long as there is enough water in the pot. when the water starts being absorbed by the plant, then the elements precipitate out onto the surface of the coco, not absorbed or anything... they are just there, on the coco. Edit - the calcium and potassium that is absorbed by the cation sites ARE NOT AVAILABLE TO THE PLANT so now when you add fresh wet water, it saturates the meduim again, and because dry salts do not immediately dissolve again, they are carried further down the pot towards the bottom. it depends on the size of your pot... putting in 1l is not going to nourish your plant for very long... you will need to feed daily like that. i also dont even think 1l would reach the bottom of the pot without the coco holding it in suspension. and if you are allowing run off to happen, then 1000 liters of water would never be harmful to the plant...it would actually be highly beneficial if you could get the flow right... think ebb and flow systems or pump and dump or RDWC ... they all flow hundreds of litres through the meduim they use... a few times a day even. so yes, 5l in a 20l pot is way better than 1l . the idea of the ppm levels we use, is so that the plant has everything it needs....READILY AVAILABLE... not partially available, or sparsely available... technically, if you used a lower ppm there would be 2 issues. one being there is obviously just straight up less nutrients per drop of water and the plant will have to search a bit harder to get what it needs. second.... the plant uses the nutrients and again battles to find more. it is a delicate operation every time we feed...to watch the plants and see how they react... i know if i feed my veg plants 250ppm for a few feeds, and my bottom leaves will go yellow because of lack of nutes... likewise i know if i feed my veg at 600ppm... im gonna see crispy plants... we give our plants what we give them and the value we give them...because we are seeing happy growth and nothing else. to illustrate, as mentioned earlier, if you have an established plant and you have been feeding till no runoff and the plant is happy... but you just want to check runoff to see where you may be... then you get your normal feed ready (eg.500ppm) and you ph it correctly. then you feed your plant until you can collect enough runoff to test with. guaranteed the ppm of the runoff will be higher than your input feed if your plant is happy. that in itself should be an experiment result to prove that salts get pushed out the pot.

power supply

i would stick to the browser... you can save a link on your phones homescreen. i tried tapatalk for an extensive 30 min...and have not touched it since... too buggy for me

checking it out, it does not look like a meanwell psu? doubt it matters too much, a power supply is a power supply right? also came with a heatsink it looks like? very nice man... maybe do a small write up for the forum and show us?

nice man! welcome to the club haha!! you got 2x 240 fixtures for 5700? thats really decent man!

as long as there is some cambium still attached, she will come right. try not to even move that node for a week for a full repair

Depends, whether or not the pot is getting lighter... Is the plant growing well? If so, leave the pot to dry out for as many days as she needs until she's light, then feed again at normal ratio. If not... Flush the pot with its volume of nute water... So if it's 20l pot..... Put 20l of phd correctly nuted feed (maybe a bit lower as previously stated, depending on how bad the damage already is) through the pot and then let it dry out... Let the plant take a week or more even... As long as it doesn't sit in the water I wouldn't use florakleen to help fix a problem.... It is more designed as a pre harvest flush... Which in my opinion, is not needed, I feed a few days before chop... And I say a few days because that's how long it takes my totes to dry out.

so it all comes down to ratios of the elements after a feed. you want the plant to have access to nutrients all the time. you never want your plant without nutes. if you have a problem with your plant that necessitates a flush, then you would go in with a lower dose...as if the plant was a smaller plant. but once growth is normal again... you should resume at the EC you were at before the problems came up. so with the ratios. if you feed a plant no till run off, you stand a chance that high levels of un absorbed elements will build up and cause trouble this is further exaggerated if you add clean water... as the plant will absorb the nutes from the previous feed in the same fassion as before, and further throw out the ratios within the medium... that is why you should feed till run off in coco... you are clearing the imbalance out and realigning the ratios to where you would like them. if you do this each feeding... the medium will always have the right ratio of nutrients... and not a high EC with perhaps too much phosphorus or potassiom or iron or whatever

i am speed

whats up man! Dont forget that you need to update your diary before tomorrow night!

Whats up man! dont forget you need to update your diary by midnight tonight.

i dono... you should not need any staking on your seedlngs... which means your light is likely not strong enough i would give them more light

keep updating this thread is you can tho... grow along with us still? what happened man? did the seeds die?