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Everything posted by CreX
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i wasnt going to say anythig about geyser timers, but this article is exactly how i feel about geyser timers. you are way better off improving the insulation of your geyser and pipes and showering in the mornings or evenings and not both, than introducing a stop start regime to reduce costs. The science is sound. in a perfect world, the geyser will heat the water, and the water will stay heated and not cool down. but geysers do cool down if not in use.. requiring them to turn on now and then to raise the water temp back up to the desired temp... this could take a few min if the water is hot already. but if your geyser and pipes are well insulated and keep the heat inside from escaping, then the geyser will need to turn on much less - and that is where the savings come in. but to get it right you also need to get all your bathing or showering done as a family, within a relatively short time, and definitely not mornings and evenings as that would heavily negate any savings from the insulation. keeping the geyser on at 65-70 degrees is the sweetspot as there is no chance of funky bacteria or anything growing in the heat.
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Mine is R1.69p/KWH you being shafted bro!
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i do see quite a few fat swollen calyx so i would say harvest now and make the best of it. The reveg will mean you will need to cut all the flowers off soon anyways, so might as well cull it and plant some new fire!!
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fuck i believe it man! the news has been pretty wild with KZN storms!! all i need is one day at the beach... dont care if it rains, im going to get wet anyways right?
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whats up man! and guys and girls! i am holidaying at the coast this coming week and have reached out to @1000Hills Nursery to meet up and he offered me to bring up some cuts for the forum guys up here in Jozi! it is going to be an exciting 2021 season guys!!
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you and your words man... make me gush lol
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Beautiful brother, thank you man hehe
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nice man! i forsee some quality hash in your future full honey melt delicacies
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lets just say i have noticed that if i squint sideways things get clearer... or if i hold shit farther away from my face things get clearer ... im fucken getting older man!
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LOL you have a lekker night my bru? have a bit too much dop or something hahaha?? your camera skills are normally superb boizee
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@Heteropyxis i see you have some sort of fix for this in mind currently. i will still say stick to leaving them as is for now...and focus on your veg area and get rid of them there. then harvest and clean your tent well and then going forward you should have little to no issues with thrips anymore rather not taint your current harvest if the thrips arent that hectic you can use almost anything and everything in veg. but flower time is especially sacred
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if it is in flower already, then theres not much you can do that wont hurt your yeilds... you can take cuttings maybe? if shes not in flower... she will get very very tall and you will run out of space within the first week
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depending how bad the damage is, i would ride it out. pyrol will leave a funny taste on the maturing buds. i spray pyrol in the 3rd week of flower and that takes care of any populations that could cause kak. the CO2 would need to be crazy high to kill the thrips via asphyxiation . but it will definitely make them not want to hang around and likely try leave the area, so you would need to keep it going the whole time in order for it to be effective as a pest deterrent.
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aaaaay lol for a Xmas edition im not seeing any festive shots!! which i am in 2 minds about.... i mean... its the middle of November... barely early enough to hang our stockings!!! but visit one shop lol... you would swear its xmas tomorrow!! lets see if we can get a merry vibe up in here ladies and gents! HO HO HO!!!
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excellent man! i myself only have used tents and trust me, they make all the difference. What light are ou building and what tech are you going with? QBs or CoBs? strips or blurples?
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Excellent topic @Candyman! You have provided a ton of great info! A bit much for the time I have to reply! While I agree that anything with some applied perfection will always be better than something you unknowingly slap together. But not everyone can brew the perfect tea to suit their needs... So a guestimate gamble is all we have. Reading the bacteria and fungi content of what you add to your teas is a good step in the knowing direction, which cuts down on some guesswork... But grabbing a good chunk of earth from a flourishing environment doesn't have an ingredient list... So it's hard to be scientific about it... I hear you, you will have a greater margin of success if you know what's going into your tea... And likewise if you don't have any idea what you are doing, the risk of adding something dodge is very high.
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sjoe... tough one man... a 1.2x1.2 tent isnt exactly large large, and you would be sacrificing a large amount of space to accommodate the dehumidifier. why not beef up your extraction and intake? what is your Rh outside the tent? If it is higher than you want it to be, and you are bringing new air into the tent constantly... you will battle to lower the RH even with a dehumidifier.
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So to be blunt - yes you can definitely harvest - trim - and jar on the same day do you want to? no. the reasons are as follows. the bud has way too much moisture in it - if you jar right away, RH would hit 100 in a few min, yes... minutes, so you would need to leave the jar open anyways to wait for the rh to drop to an acceptable level, which will be in a good 3- 4 days minimum. if you neglect the rh even for a moment... mold and pm and budrot will set in like wildfire! so not ideal the buds may feel dense on harvest day, but even the densest buds get all soft and squishy the first few days of drying and water loss, so jarring them will likely end up squashing the buds in their moerin..
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the slooooow dry is only in place to allow the chlorophyll to break down and reduce the harsh smoke from that. so even though they may still be moist, they are ready to be trimmed and jarred. first few days you may beed to monitor the rh closely as they will make the rh climb high
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if you have a hydrometer like it sounds like you do, then only burm if RH hits 65%, then burp it until its lower than your humidity pack. by burp, i just mean leave the jar open for a bit. then close it and rinse wash repeat until the jar doesnt increase in RH when its closed... if you dont have a hydrometer, then the rule i followed was burp daily for 30min for 1 week, then burp every 2nd day for 15 min for the 2nd week, and then you should be good to go.
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its not PM, its mold 100%
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LOL and stop tasting the shit man hahaha man thats actually funny hahaha oh and a budwash is a good practice if you feel that your harvest may be tainted by something. as for your concern about inside the jars, you must manage the RH. either manually with a hydrometer, or with bovidas or some kind of 2 way humidity product. pm and mold will grow in RH higher than 67% so get some 64% sachets and some 58% sachets.
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1 - Identify and separate the few that have mold on their stems. These are ready to be cured already. you nailed it man... thats straight up mold from high RH in your dry room. i think you must reduce the dry days by quite a few until you have all your environmental controls in place to maintain RH exactly ...or atleast better. if there is no mold on the leaves or buds, i would get rid of the affected stems asap and start jarring your stuff... i have not seen PM on stems unless its a proper bad infection... but that would be more on your leaves and bud...
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not a bad price man... new or used?
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Ministry of Cannabis - Blueberry Domina (Indoor and Outdoor).
CreX replied to Grower's topic in Grow Diaries
i would avoid Aquaponics vibes ... in theory its a good idea... i mean we use fish mix right?? True we do during Veg, but the problem with fish water is the inconsistency of the water, and the NKP value is out of whack for most potted plants. if they were in a large garden bed then koi water is great! the Ph should be i think above 7.5 for koi? so tap water ph pretty much. i would use tap water for the first few weeks and see if any of your lower leaves go yellow or exhibit any issues, and then apply a bottled nutrient... seagro works well and its found everywhere, and its pretty cheap.