CreX

now that you point it out, the leaf veins are slightly different to the rest of the plant. Classic magnesium deficiency... or rather the start of one. What are you feeding her? i hope you have a box of epsom salts handy!

analogy coming up. So you hit up a new resturant in town, and you order a beef burger. and when they bring it to you... the literal cow is still alive, the lettuce still has its roots on it... the cheese...dont get me started... now you thought, what the hell, i thought this was supposed to be a 5 star meal! you are irate... hungry... pissed off at the cook. you can all agree that by going to a 5 star restaurant, you are going to get what you paid for... the chef has been busy this whole time to grace you with something amazing...not something you could have got from around the corner. same with weed, just because you have a plant and know that if you prepare it well someone is going to really enjoy it. but if you dont take the time to prepare your harvest, trim those leaves, dry it carefully... have the measurements in place to control your product, it really wont be as good as you would like it, and may even get your hopes down. curing your weed is probably more important than the growing of your weed, and the correct tools must be had regardless of the size of your grow.

it would be wise to have one or 2 for this purpose, if you have the cash, then yea why not... but i wouldn't call it essential to have one in every jar. once the RH stabilizes at the preferred RH, no more burping is required and you can trust that the bovida will do the rest. as for different strains, not really. i think i know what you are asking and i dont think so. RH is just the count of moisture, it has no effect on the flavour of the bud or the high.

Sort of with this one... If you harvest and dry and jar the weed and the RH goes up to 70+, your bovida might battle to absorb all the excess moisture. So burping is essential, even with bovidas for the first week of cure at least. Get some small RH meters that can fit in the jar to make sure the bovidas are holding the RH where it is supposed to be

just in general 62% is kak to work with unless you bong a head whole. its just too moist to grind up nicely, it is too sticky to roll properly, the excess moisture means i need to clean my pipe twice a week and not just once. but for long term storage and flavour retention , 62 is the way to go. and then my personal stash or day stash is at 58%, its just perfect to do all of the above. Amazing the difference 4% makes ey?

yea, you would need a lux meter to really know. but you would need to do tests in the beginning of the lights life span to have a base to test off, and then you could do regular checks to calculate the rate of deterioration and then replace. otherwise the go to HID lifespan is i think 10k hours and then it needs to be replaced. That works out to just over 2 years if you only run the bulb for 12 hours a day.

looking good man! you must be getting excited!

i seem to always have issues with PM in my garden. so i came accross this and decided to take a look at what ol googs has to say. Seems its quite legit, but caution is advised about mixing ACV and H202 together. quite a few recipes call for apple cider vinegar to be sprayed , followed by a H202 spray, repeated every few days until the PM is gone. apparently the order of the sprays is not the issue, you can go ACV first or H202 first, the important info is that you do not mix them together in the same bottle as it forms a weaker disinfectant solution, as well as forming Peracetic Acid which is undesirable apparently. very cool and something i would give a try

aayyyy!!! how things mate! garden is looking good with all the things man! tell us, how did it go with the wife? does she know 1.2kg is the limit lol?

Much better dude. Don't be afraid to scratch the top 1inch of soil... Few roots grow there, so it's a good test to scratch the surface and see how moist your medium is... If the entire top inch is dry, you can feel confident that adding water/feed now is a good idea

Coolest, I did not mean any offense to you. The copper soap works very well for plants not in flower... And should be enough of a prevention to keep that grow happy in flower with out additional sprays. But AQSF should be fine in flower. Again ideally you don't want to spray anything on the ladies in flower ever... But when shit hits the fan you gotta do the things to save the crop

whats up yos! so i have heard about this kitchen venue that are 420 Friendly and though why not give them a bow for supporting the community in that small way. these guys are out in Walkerville so if you are looking for a place to vibe and get out the house, try these guys out check out https://www.facebook.com/injati.industries/

i guess this section is pretty bleak! i am sure some of us know a place or 2 that are pro cannabis/ or at least tolerate the use of marijuana on their premise. i love going to the great outdoors for a cheeky public smoke... nothing beats a hike with mates and a couple of fatties along the way. but i guess this section would be for more, closer to home kinda vibes. who knows of any places where okes can go grab a plate to eat and also enjoy a puff at the same place? a bar/weed vibe even... or just a venue that peeps can go and chill, and not feel nervous to spark up. Ill start with 2 places iv heard of. first is Sundowners in alberton. - bless their souls, i believe the place has shut down. another one i have heard of is Gerda's Kitchen at Injati. maybe i add a separate topic for the place. hows about a show of secret joints where we can meet up and be ourselves? make a new topic for each Venue and give the supporters some support too!

still keen on a WOW button

Not sure how vegans work... But I really don't think you should be splitting ends over your home grown... If you had any idea what has been put on the weed you bought, you would probably never smoke again.... And no dissing your lifestyle choices... But this forum is dedicated to helping you grow the best herb possible... And I don't think you should be forcing your views on your plant... You have a problem with WPM... Unfortunately you will need to deal with it head on or it will get worse. There is a product called AQSF, which you could use instead... But not sure how vegan friendly it is

yea, that link @swumsent has some pretty interesting arguments full of words like "Semi-Auto" and "fast" "crappy genetics" and it would seem that not alot of info is out there about them. but they seem to have a place, or at least they are gaining popularity. i mean, i would love a fast auto flowering high yielding plant ... but in the same breath, i can get a Fast photo flowering high yielding plant instead

went to trusty google and came back with some ideas... seems my thinking of breeding the auto gene/ all genes is flawed... seems there is no ON OFF button when it comes to genes... they can mix and change. so where your auto flower can flower in 20 hours of light... but will reveg from 21h kind of vibes... very interesting... breeding the auto gene to express itself @18 hours and flower in conditions from 18 hours down... but if shes a keeper you could push her up to 24 hours and take cuttings like you are doing. i can only imagine the sheer volume of plants and phenos one would go through to find such a plant.

please elaborate on this.. i am of the opinion that an auto is an auto and will not react to the hours of light it gets... it sprouts, it flowers, it dies.

yea i get that you are talking about Auto trait. and depending which trait is dominant is the way the offspring will turn out. If the Auto gene is dominant over the photo gene you could experience 75% auto and 25% photo in F1, from there you select the best male that flowers under 24h and the best female that flowers under 24h, mix em , and if you chose the right autos with the dominant gene and not recessive gene, then your ratio could improve to something like 93% auto and 7% photo in F2. so you are right in saying you would need to get to atleast F3 before you could reach your 99% Auto outcome. i was just disputing crossing a photo and auto result in only photo offspring

i agree lol... mostly. from what i can see on tv nowdays is still mostly joints... noobs that have no experience notice these things and kind of have what they see on tv as an idea in their head about how to consume it. Joints and bongs mostly. so as a beginner i might be inclined to start of with a joint or a bong as opposed to heavy vapes that look like something out of a space movie. kinda makes me wonder what the next step is from there? intravenous injection?? LOL ok ok ok that was a bit far fetched. but one thing my ex has taught me, is that just because we know what may be the best/ healthiest/ tastiest/ most enjoyable way to consume weed. but without the journey of learning and experiencing the different aspects of weed, one can learn how they best enjoy weed. and for me, starting at the top isnt the ideal way to introduce weed to a new person. and i love the taste of burning marijuana ... the hot coal on the tip of the joint... the smoldering of a fat bowl in a bong... the deep taste of the smoke and the after taste aswell... the taste of the paper and the caramelized flavour of the burning roach.

@swum, not necessarily, even F2 reg Auto seeds will be subject to different phenotypes. it also depends on so much. was it an auto male that you pollinated a photo fem? or was it a photo male that pollinated an auto fem? depending which of the plants has the most dominant traits will depend on what traits the offspring gravitate towards. and what you are referring to is called Hybrid Vigor... most bagseed tend to express rapid healthy growth and are known to have this vigor. well bred plants from reputable breeders also exhibit this trait, but it does not often express itself in later generations starting from F3. successful back crossing with the original parents can often bring back this trait in your offspring.

if electricity and heat were of no concern, would you still go for LED over HID?

hi @Vee, luckily you have used pyrol for the spray. it has a half life of 24 hours and is no longer active after 48 hours, so if you wanted to eat your cannabis it would be completely safe to do so! but because you are going to be smoking it, you need to be cautious in flower with what you spray. if there are any residue markings on the leaves, i would spray with water... or let the rain sort it out. Pyrol is not actually very useful for WPM. pyrol is an aid in the eradication of bugs on your plants...kills them on contact. for WPM you can use copper soap, but again not in flower... in flower, weekly milk sprays are useful. dilute fresh milk down to 5050 with water, and spray weekly to get control over WPM

yo! who uses HID currently and why are you still using it? im very interested in CMH DE lights, but my word the electricity and heat scares me haha what are your thoughts guys

looks like you could feed more and water the plant