Kgrows

@Blue Cheese i disagree, if he's running ph 8 through the medium it will jack his PH right up

@PsyCLown indeed it would be in the long run, just for feeds i use about 10L per feed, twice a week, refill my bottles once a month, so i spend about R100 a month on RO. its about R3500 for a good RO system, min. so it would take 3 years to recoup, in between there are diaphragms and filters you need to keep changing too. i have looked at it but figured the cost vs the inconvenience - the bottles win for now. will look at it again in the future if i expand my grow. In the meantime i've got more important things, on which seems like a never ending list of upgrades, to do in my grow room. @iHigh so what i would do is flush with Ph'd tap water, what is the ppm? then run like the last 10L through each pot with RO, also ph'd, with the calmag & h2o2 (go like 1%), then final 1/2 strength feed wash through, ie runoff. Your plants can get chlorosis from too much chlorine, so you need to make sure its below max 300ppm.

@iHigh how many plants? if you have a 200l tank, dont bother with tap water. if you do want to flush with it, you have to ph the water first so you would need to put it into a container anyways. the reason why i use tap first is to save RO water, i buy it in 10 & 5L bottles every few weeks so it becomes a waste for me to dump 100+L of RO for flushing, i save it for feeding etc

lol, they do look good, but i think you do need a good flush, i see your tips are burning a bit too. always ph'd! otherwise it will change your mediums ph, looking at the rest of the plant now i would say dont change your ph during flush keep it where it is currently. i normally flush with tap water for the first 25L & 5L RO at the end, do my checks on runoff & then either flush more or add some low ppm nutes. check the ppm of your tapwater, if its above 250 dont add calmag. H2O2 will be good for flushing too! will add a lot of O2 into the medium & kill anything bad in the medium & you'll see them really pop afterwards. calmag is to keep your levels in the medium , if you flush through everything you'll get the same defs. check your runoff after the first 5L for ppm & ph to see where you're at & work from there, check again before you use RO, if your levels are too high on runoff then run more water. also try not to let the coco go bone dry, it will cause a salt build up & burn your plants. other than that i would say stick to what ur doing now, it looks like its working well, just reduce the nutes a bit. you want you base nutes(just the floracoco) at about 850-1200ppm (dbl check GHE recommendations), so you need to add calmag & or epsom, then test ppm & subtract that from the total after adding floracoco to give you your base nute ppm. as a rule of thumb, i always flush in the first 3 weeks of flowering, whether i've had a good or bad veg with the plant. but again i dont think theres any major issues here, a bit of epsom (sulfur def can look like calmag & N too) should help a shit load.

pipe goes from Y bottle to TW bottle, pipe sits at about 1cm below the cap in the Y bottle, other end goes into TW bottle & the end should sit about 10cm below the line of the water, the pipe that leads out of the TW bottle, sits abt 1 cm below the cap & can be as long as you like, but shorter is better. i put about a litre in each bottle, & make the RO water abt 30deg C to activate the yeast & dissolve sugar. then change the contents every 2 weeks or so. I could work it out, but i got it a few years ago from a grower who did the maths & he reckoned one of those are good with 600W, so i add them accordingly, i've only seen rapid improvement when adding them so i've never felt the need to do the maths. its about 360ml/hour +-, but you measure co2 in ppm, which i cant do. i know optimum levels at about 700ppm is ideal & will increase growth by up to 40% when maintained at that level & at a higher temp. take it or leave it, i personally found it adds a lot to the grow

nice first grow! you really do have green fingers that GD purp (one of my fav strains) (edit, i see its the BB that has mutation not the GDP), has a highly sought after polyploid mutation, same thing that makes master kush, master kush! just beware budrot & WPM, because they are so big & dense they are susceptible.

yes they will fuck them up! what pesticide are you using?

i make a R20 CO2 generator (not the prettiest but by far the cheapest), cup of sugar, packet of yeast, 2 empty coke bottles & some surgical tubing. One gets ro water with sugar & yeast, other gets plain tap water. tap water is to filter gases from the yeast bottle & seperate the alcohol from the CO2. the long pipe below can be attached to the back of a fan to enrich the air in a tent or you have the pipes hanging above the plants pouring CO2 over them like rain in a larger space. Trust if you want your canopy to fill out quickly, add CO2. The problem with not adding CO2, is that at about 600W+ your plants cant use all that light without CO2. I've always seen positive results from adding co2 into a grow, its not going to hurt them, it can only benefit, unless you suffocate them, which you shouldnt if you have decent circulation.

@iHigh , as @CreX said the new growth is important & the fact that its healthy means that ur not in dire straights. BUT if its a Mg def, Mg is mobile, so it will always start on the lower leaves & work its way up the plant so new growth is not the only indicator you need to look at. with the floracoco series, they add in extra calmag so you dont have to, so i'm guessing that you have an excess which is causing a calmag lockout & perhaps other micro nutes too. Your coco comes pre-buffered with some nutes so buffering is not needed, so its not that either. What i would do if i were you: flush completely, about 30L per pot, add 150ppm calmag to the flush water. drop your ph at the same time to 5.8(this will help with uptake). then stop using calmag, switch it for epsom @150ppm and add your nutes at 1/2 recommended strength, then slowly increase again until your plants are happy af. if you're still in veg, i would also do a 150ppm calmag foliar spray, or if you can get your hands on, kelpak, use that, dont spray during flower.

What water are you using? What ppm are u adding in calmag? Ph? What GH range of nutes are you using?

oh ok, where do you put them? in the res?

what are those balls on the roots?

my method: scuff seeds with sandpaper lightly (they have a coating that needs to be removed or broken to allow water to penetrate). then soak in water for 24hours, max 36. Once the shells have cracked & the tap root emerges, remove from water & add to centre of wet paper towel, fold over & cover seeds, keep towel damp. place in a tupperware that does not let light through, close lid & leave a small opening for air to get through. wrap in a dish cloth & put somewhere warm. you want to keep the seeds btw 17-27C, humid & moist. the warmer the faster they germ. once the taproots are about an inch long they're ready to transplant into the medium. should take about 24-36 hrs. before you write the seeds off as duds, do my method, i germinate about 90% of my seeds, the 10% i dont germ are generally bagseed or similar. bought breedder seeds i'm at about 95% germ rate. dont write off growing just yet, just research before each step & stick to the rules & you'll get there

do you guys think rockwool as a plug would be a good idea?

do you know for sure that your tap water has chlorine & not chloramine in it? if chloramine which is likely, then bubbling is useless, although i also do it. its used to work back in the day when they used chlorine, but for chloramine you need a filter.

6/2 gives me 2 dark cycles when its dark out & 1 in the day, i have no issue with doing maintenance with this schedule. basically the idea is that cannabis is a short day plant & this schedule 3 days in a 24 hour period. you train the plants from small so the 8 hour thing becomes irrelevant, i watch my plants carefully & find after about 6 hours the plants get tired, leaves start to droop, you need a min of 2hrs dark for whatever processes need to happen, so that 2 hour break seems to energise them for the next 6 - look this up its a well known veg light cycle, i've been using it on the indoor compo, although its not a good example cos of my other fuckups, but i've used this cycle to get my plants ready for flower in 4-5 weeks of veg with solid structure thats about the equivalent of a 7-8 veg. this also helps a lot during load shedding. 6/12 is a 36hr cycle too for flowering, i havent tried this though, the maths doesnt quite add up though, some days you'll get 18hrs of darkness within a 24hr period, which i dont know how the plants will react to. I'll give this a go at some point, but not on this grow. tbh i dont like to play too much with light cycles during flower, i prefer to play with the spectrum at this stage, things like, introducing far red for the last 30mins of light cycle etc while i appreciate the KISS aspect, i did that for my first few grows, but i've been growing for a while now & i get bored easily so i experiment a lot & complicate the fuck out of errthing lol

@PsyCLown nice! will give this a go too!

What about a short day cycle? Like 6/2 for veg & 6/12 for flower on/off. Has anyone tried that?

ya they went back down almost immediately, defs not on the plants. they only came up because I completely saturated the pot with water

@Dank shot bru! I thought it may have been a part of the web, was more concerned that they were root aphids or something similar.

ya that makes more sense. I haven't tried that tbh, my main issue would be having dark period during the day. Having to manually adjust your timer every day will be a pain in the ass

@SkunkPharm you cant really give more than 24hrs of light, 24hrs means its on all the time

@PsyCLown Thanks! the white ones look like woodlice but i'm worried about the grey ones. I dont use neem, look up azadirachtin poisoning. Especially in the root zone. I do use pyrethrum though, although i'm not a fan of using pesticides on the roots, cannabis is a phytoremediator, so it sucks everything up thats in the medium. i'm thinking i might hydrogen peroxide wash through then repot into new medium

Sup peeps! while flushing to correct ph, a few things came out of my medium. these pots have a layer of compost in them, which i'm guessing is where they came from, good or bad sign? good or bad insect? if bad, could they have spread to my other plants & how do i get rid of them if i need to?