PsyCLown

If you are up to it, give Ghost Train Haze by Rare Dankness a try. Very heavy sativa.

I have a 240W QB up for sale for R3750 - brand new, will save you even more money then. Budbox make great tents! Can't go wrong there. You can get something better for the same amount of money.

Why do you wrap the tap half of the pots? Help retain water? Plants will always only take what they need, in hydro the nutrients are just more readily available to the plant. In soil this is not the case. A bit late now, you want to do this earlier on. The way you train and work with your plants, will also determine the outcome. I find cleaning up a plant heavily underneath where light ill be limited will ensure more energy is put into the remaining bud sites and you then can end up with larger bud. Strain will obviously play a role too. Also pot size could be a limiting factor. Try with a 20L pot next time.

That is pretty hectic, picked up early I assume. I watched that documentary on Netflix called Unwell - the last episode was about bee sting therapy and lyme disease, but severe cases where it was not picked up in time. Not sure when last I took a tolerance break. I think it was for around a week or two maybe 2 months back. Been thinking about doing one, but not sure.

Leave the thread, no need to delete it. It's a source of information for others. I generally let the plants veg and settle after a transplant, before I flip to flower. I'm not actually sure how much the roots will grow and recover now with the plant revegging and going straight back into flower. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Skimmed through your post. I think its best that if you do want a cutting, you reach out to the person growing it and see if they're willing. A cutting would need to be taken and kept alive before the plant goes into flower. Not everyone has a separate veg and flower tent and won't be able to do this.

I wouldn't, rather stick to fabric pots. @StonerZN up to you regarding the 20L vs 10L pots. 20L pots are easy to repurpose, 10L pots not really. I grew my auto's in 20L pots and all went well. You do use more soil for the pot, but don't need to water as often as it will hold more water - especially important being out in the sun all day with the wind etc. etc. FF pots are not bad, but they are not perfectly round and the soil pulls away from the sides easily and then when watering the water goes down the sides and not into the soil properly. It's just a hassle, so for around the same amount of money you can get a different brand of fabric pot which does not have this issue. I feel the Plant Matter pots are put together better, they are more circular and the dimensions work well. They're actually 22L I believe, if you want to be precise but nobody is forcing you to fill a 20L pot. You can always use less soil if you so desire.

20L pots will be more than sufficient and can be used for your indoor grow as well. I like to use carlton towel too, place it into a zip lock bag to keep humidity in and then between 2 saucers to keep light out. On top of a modem should be fine to keep it all warm. There are various things you could use to help the plants, but, how much of a difference it makes and how much you are willing to spend is what it comes down you. You could spend a couple thousand on "magic potions" and may not even notice a difference. You do not need any vermiculite, that would just lead to increased water retention. The FF soil alone should suffice and have enough drainage as well. I must say, the FF pots are not bad but there are nicer pots out there. I quite like the Plant Matter pots and @Ill_Evan has some pots which are really awesome as well and priced decently. May be worth speaking to him about some fabric pots. Cannot remember the name of the pots. You will need a loupe or microscope to check the trichomes on the plants closer to the time, as well as a pair of trimming scissors. But you have a few months to go before that is really going to be needed. I don't feel there is much need for the coriander, try it if you want to though. Dont think it will do any harm. You may need something for pest control, can address that later on if need be. If there is anything else you need, you can get it around the time you need it if you are on a budget.

Start a thread, post some pics and keep us updated on your grow. If you run into any issues or have any questions, feel free to ask!

Welcome. May be best for you to start a new thread. DP and GSC, both quite popular strains. Doubt you will experience any traits which are difficult to deal with as a grower.

Out of those 4, only 2 are really vital as far as I am concerned and if someone is on a budget. Fishmix or Grow (don't need both) Bloom Topmax seems to just be humic & fulvic acids - you can get these pretty cheaply at a few places. Organics Matter sell it, I got some from them a while back. It will last forever! You can get by 100% with just FIsh mix and Bloom, although if you'd prefer you can get Grow and Bloom, grow can be used during flower a bit but I do not see why you'd want to do that, especially in soil. Fish mix I believe is a bit better for veg though. If it were me and based on my previous experience, I would get fish mix & bloom only. leave out the Grow and source humic & fulvic acids elsewhere if you want to use them.

Coco or hydro without a proper pH pen is not a good idea at all. EC pen you can get away without one, they are cheap though and you do not need a fancy EC pen. Do not skimp on a PH pen. So with that being said, soil might make a bit more sense. I'd then go with the premium soil. When you are growing indoors, give coco a try (once you have a proper PH pen, something like the HM Digital PH pen).

If you have calmag, that could work too - although it contains more than just magnesium. Foliar spray will likely work best / most effectively and quickly.

As I mentioned in the other thread, I feel its genetic as well. I would not recommend you flush either, the other plants in there will starve. Already they're looking quite light in colour and I feel could do with some extra nutes - if anything I feel you should be feeding them and not flushing. Although having plants in veg and in flower in the same pot isn't going to work as their nutrient needs will vary. Also how do you manage the light? If its outdoors, that colourful plant will likely start to reveg at some point. This threads title made me think of a song... Fat Boy Slim - Star 69, ooold song.

All the plants are in the same soil too? So they're all receiving the same nutes. Yield could be diminished if it were a nute issue, although I don't see it. Not uncommon for some plants to give colour during flower. If you were to pull it now, you'd have lower yield and immature weed, so it could be a lot weaker. Best to wait and let it mature, it'll probably fatten up and the potency will increase as it matures. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

The colour of the leaves? Could just be strain related, if its a seed from an outdoor plant - could have been pollen from various male plants. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Not sure if its the lighting or my eyes, but the leaves on the plant is not looking too happy. @CreX what do you think? Otherwise keen to see how the mainline turns out

You don't want to over do it with the epsom salts, you can start using CalMag but it contains nitrogen as well. I feel you're better off using the Terra Aquatics nutes as it should contain a full range of nutrients and not just Calcium, Magnesium & Nitrogen like CalMag. Possibly best to start with a lighter dose of nutes and work your way up as you monitor the plant.

I'd give her more time, not a big plant either so the extra veg time won't be an issue. 6 weeks before flowering is quite a long time for autos though, looks as if the other plants started to flowering more than a week ago though. I have had some autos which turned out to be photoperiods, but it was 2 out of 2 seeds and not just one. If it does not flower within the next 2 or so weeks, its likely a photoperiod. It could have crept in while the seeds were being made (that it was a photoperiod, not an auto) or seeds could have gotten mixed up. I do not believe this to be common, but it can happen.

@CreX has pretty much nailed it. 62% for long term storage, 58% for when you want to keep a small stash aside for you to smoke from. I personally prefer to have a hygrometer in each jar to ensure the RH is consistent, humidity can easily differ from jar to jar based on the density of the bud - even with the same strains and different phenos. Why risk ruining it due to high humidity and mold? With multiple strains it's even more likely, especially if the plants are harvested at different times. You will burp the jars if the bud wasn't dried enough and the RH spikes too high, the Boveda's may not pull the humidity down quick enough (or enough, in general). EDIT: I personally prefer to not over dry my bud, if the Bovedas need to increase the RH then I find it can affect the cure and the bud isn't as great as when the RH is spot on or the bovedas need to remove a bit of moisture. When done like this the cure seems to continue without issues and the weed ends up really good!

Does not look like Nitrogen toxicity to me, leaf tips are not burnt, now clawing either. What nutes are you using - other than the epsom salts? I rate you could possibly stop with all of that and continue with your normal nutes. If you want to add some calcium, calmag is always good and I do not see the Nitrogen doing any harm. Leaves do not seem that dark to me. Testing the PH of run off in soil isn't necessarily going to be all that useful considering most soils have stuff in it to help buffer the PH. It's not fool proof, but it helps a bit. You can check the EC / PPM of the run off to get an idea as to what sort of strength of nutes are in the soil.

Boveda packs are awesome and surely the way to go as far as I am concerned. I do not feel they are very expensive, considering how long they last. I have purchased a few boveda packs and some are over 2 years old and still good. Have not dried up yet. Gone through a few harvests. There are ways to rehydrate them too I believe, I have yet to try this but worth a shot to see if you can squeeze some extra life out of your Boveda pack. The Boveda's are a small price to pay to ensure a quality cure, why ruin your entire grow and all the time and effort spent by cheaping out and not getting a few boveda packs? Both the 62% and 58% work really well. I prefer 58% for my vape, but 62% keeps the bud moist for longer obviously. So you can use a combination depending on your needs and what you plan on smoking first - personal preference too. I know some prefer 62% for smoking but for vaping I really do feel 58% works a bit better.

Looks good, I assume you've gone up to 2ml/L now? You could slowly start to increase to 3ml and then shortly after 4ml - I found no need to go above 4ml/L during veg - but that was with fish mix. During stretch (so from when you flip the plants to flower) you can run a low dose of grow and then start introducing bloom. You then stop the grow completely after 3 weeks and run just bloom until harvest. You will always use way more bloom than grow or fish mix.

You can buy ladybugs, but not sure you can do so in SA. You can get swarskimites though, they're predatory mites and will eat some pests.

This will be easier if you are only using a single method of growing (for example, just using coco instead of a mix of coco, soil & DWC).