PsyCLown

@ShamelessAtom if I were in your situation and low on budget for the grow, I would go and look for some quality soil somewhere and get some 20L pots (or repurpose those reusable bags from Pick n Pay, Woolworths etc. These bags: https://averda.co.za/news/pick-n-pay-launches-reusable-shopping-bags/ Fill it with some quality soil (depending on where you live, this may be the hardest part) and then get some plants growing in the bags, keep watering them and then manually flip them to flower by taking them inside every day and then putting them outside again. I'd let the plants veg for around 6 to 8 weeks before flipping to flower to ensure they get to a decent size. It will be a lot of work, but you should get alright results and a harvest within the next 5 or so months. So be able to harvest roughly early next year. As your budget increases, invest in some quality soil or start making some of your own soil now! Having quality soil will be your best bet to a good ourdoor grow. Once you have good soil, then plant at the right time for outdoor - in your ground and you can get some massive plants if the timing is done right and you look after them properly.

Hmm, bit of a catch 22 you have going on there. Need to get good bud to stop buying bud, although at the same time do not have to money to spend on stuff to grow good bud as you are spending it on buying bud. You can do things cheaply, but it takes time. Or you can spend a bit of money and get better results quicker. You need to provide your plants with the basics - nutrients, water and lighting. Water is easy to do, lighting can be the sun, nutrients can come from the soil and/or powder or liquid fertiziliers and amendments. Until you get things dialed in, the stuff you're growing will continue to be problematic. Growing takes time, the more time you waste the longer until you get a decent harvest. Since you are growing outdoors, we are going into Spring so unless you have plants which are finishing up in terms of flowering - you're going to only be able to harvest next year April / May as they will be getting too many hours of light to go into flower. Growing out seeds at the moment, your plants will not have a chance to flower and mature properly before being harvested. You can force the plants into flower, but you'd then need to take them indoors everyday and keep them in complete darkness for 12 hours, then put them outside everyday for 12 hours of light. It's going to be a constant mission of taking the plant(s) inside and outside to ensure they do not get more than 12 hours of light.

Welcome and enjoy your stay! Glad you found us!

Bump. Nobody? Everyone who smokes dab here either buys it or smokes dab which likely still contains butane?

Never heard of the website, it also does not seem to load for me? Pitty its not what you wanted, quite frustrating infact. Lots of money wasted for not much, 10% THC is fuckall.

Well done to the winners! :D Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Biltong n buds have some nice quality genetics too - they sell stuff like In House Genetics, WSS and many many more. I haven't found other local seedbanks who stock quite as much. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

I have ordered from Sacredseeds before, had no issues - this was a goood few months back though. Since Skunk ordered from him 2 weeks ago, more than likely legit. Biltongnbudz is also a decent place to source some nice seeds.

@Prom interesting, your boards must differ slightly to mine then - for full power I need more than 50v and the 48B would not go over to 50V when on max. A quantum sensor would be awesome, although truth be told I am not sure how much of a difference having one would make to a grow. I dim my lights based on the watts and eye ball the height based on what I feel is comfortable and so far results are decent. Have you done tests to see how much your yield is affected by running the lights too close or too far away - so lower or higher ppfd? I find it hard to justify the cost of a decent sensor for just growing, especially when you could borrow one to take measurements and have a decent idea - as you said the diodes would deteriorate over time and preferably you'd adjust for it - but once again goes back to how much of a difference does it make? Is it really worth the R10k or so for a nice Apogee?

I've heard those moisture meters are not accurate. Auto watering is a waste for a single plant though. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

@Newbie_2020 I love my automatic watering system, watering by hand is such a ball ache and takes time - something I am often limited with. I looked at making my own DIY dripper system, however I found it a bit iffy as depending on what parts you get it tends to leak or you need a big pump and high pressure for the pressure regulated valves and dialing it in to ensure each plant gets an equal amount of feed etc. can be a bit challenging and the cost increases etc. etc. So then I stumbled upon the Blumat system, with their carrots. The Tropf is their dripper system, works really well. Easy to setup and dial in (takes a few minutes to calibrate it really) and then you just keep refilling the res with your nute mix. The plants get water only when needed (when the medium dries up) and all is good in the world

@Prom does the 48B provide enough voltage to provide full power to your QB's? I found that it was a bit low in terms of voltage in order for me to obtain full power on my QB's. My QB's are around 51 - 52v when at max power, the 48B could only give me 49.x V when the dimmer was turned to max. However the 48A or 48AB with the build in potentiometer is a different story and provides max power and a higher output voltage. EDIT: I only saw the 2nd page replies now, although you have confused me... why do you want to get 120W LED drivers? You can have a 480W LED driver and run a single QB off it - you can adjust the amount of power the QB gets... Typically you'd get a 240W LED driver for 2x QB288's as this offers the flexability to dim the lights, but turn it up to max if you so desire - or to run the lights at higher power without putting the LED driver under strain by maxing the driver out.

My tap water has a ppm of 79 and I use the soft water ghe. No issues at all. I also don't care much for letting my water sit or specifically airing it before I use it - I gets throw into my res, nutes mixed and that's that. Connected to the automatic watering system. There are airstones inside the res though to help move the water around a bit etc. The plants get fed with that water basically straight away. I personally wouldn't bother with organic nutes in the Formula 1 mixture. I'd also prefer plain coco over the F1 mix. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Yeah, you can swap out the CFL's for the LED's anywhere during the grow. If you are going from a particularly low powered light to something really strong, it may be best to gradually increase the power you're giving your plants. I have not experienced it myself but heard some people had issues with their plants when changing to a stronger light or taking it from a shit indoor light to the sun outdoors, no clue how true this is though.

LED's are certainly the way to go and with your budget a Quantum Board will be perfect! 2x QB288's with a maximum draw of around 240w will fill your tent without issues, infact you will likely be running it dimmed, only putting out 120w - 180w so that will certainly save costs compared to your current setup and will without a doubt increase yields. Locally there are a few places which sell Quantum Boards, however you could get it for less if you are willing to do some DIY and and import - perhaps drop me a PM if you want a bit more info on importing QB's (quantum boards).

Is that UV C? Although, a tent is not 100% air tight so spores can enter from places other than the inline fan and when you open the tent too.. I've heard having UV B lights can help with mould and fungus too, never tried myself though. Also don't think it's going to stop an outbreak of pm but could perhaps help reduce the likelihood of it happening. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

AQ sf is Ampelomyces quisqualis. I've heard Prom say Serenade works well, so if you're keen to import perhaps try that too. I feel AQ sf is best used as a preventative but it can work in controlling an outbreak too, although Serenade sounds better for an outbreak. I'd also look at putting the heater inside the tent, instead of having it blow through ducting. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

How is it going? I can recommend using AQ sf, bio organics sell it - they're based in cape Town but will ship. Other retailers sell it too, such as Jamie's garden shop. It basically eats away the PM, although takes a bit of time to get working as it's spores which need to germinate. Safe to use during flower. Also removing leaves and having a fan in your tent, the pm spores have already spread. I was thinking of trying one of those disinfectant foggers which kill all microbes and spores for fungus and mould etc to clean out my tent and equipment between grows - have not yet tried it but I think it could work. Get it blowing through my extraction fan and oscillating fans and onto my lights etc. Milk and water also works, if you're in a hurry mixing the AQ sf with milk seems to work well, the milk helps control the pm straight away and then the AQ sf takes over a little later although you still need to continue to spray, I'd say at least once a week to ensure it remains under control, last thing you want is for the pm to blow up before harvest. I haven't tried vinegar or bicarb, I'm not sure how I feel about using neem on plants in flower and I'd also suggest using a neem oil made for plants specially and not the one from Dischem (it may even be cheaper than the dischem one). Agro organics also sell a neem oil as do Neudorff. I have heard that keeping your temps between 22 and 26 can help prevent the pm spores from germinating and therefore ensure you do not end up with pm on your plants - never tried it myself and probably a little late for you. You'd need a heater and decent thermostat to achieve that though. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Pretty much, try make a plan to purge some of my dab. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Hey all, I am wondering whether anyone here has a vacuum chamber and is based in Gauteng? If so, please drop me a PM!

I am rather curious as to why they went back and killed him. Was this just an aggressive robbery, or was he targeted specifically? Did someone want him gone? Something we may never find out. RIP Jules. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Welcome and enjoy your stay! Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

@420sake Hmm, so 40C for a few hours you rate is good - but that is with a vacuum? What sort of temps and time duration should one look at if no vacuum is being used? I haven't looked into winterising and so forth to be honest. Perhaps you could run me through that quickly? I recall it being a method to clean your extract, but it used alcohol from what I recall? How would one typically purge ethanol? Heat as well? Maybe I should give Ethanol a try and see how it turns out... I can leave it in a 38C water bath or 40C waterbath for however many hours are required.

GHE? I did not use any calmag and did not have any issues. Grow was done in coco as well. Adding a bit of calmag won't be a problem though. I think it was 1g calmag to 10L as a maintenance dose? Did you buffer your coco?

Yea, you don't have to bud wash. Doubt it'll kill you if you don't. Although I prefer to. The bud certainly gets dirt and dust on it during a grow, so why not clean it. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk