PsyCLown

Nice, so you finally have another tent going. Pretty decent size too! Keen to see the new thread, question is what seedlings are those? I also see 5 where only 4 are going into the larger tent? Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Congrats and welcome@CreX Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

It wasn't a big plant though and you're used to a scrog. If you don't scrog next time, I suggest a slight change in defol and training etc. Not bad though, what sort of yield do you think you'll get from other plant? Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

So I do not feel using autos is a great way to test out soil, I would rather use clones from the same plant. Auto's can be iffy, you can get some which will flower sooner than others and that can affect their end size and the yield etc. So they can be quite inconsistent, would make it hard to judge which soil may be better. Looking good though, I assume no training? They just need to fatten up now!

I have kept it simple. There is a window in the room which is a bit open for some fresh air and then the door leading to the rest of the house is also open a bit. I draw air in from the room the tent is in and then the exhaust is also just into the room (out the top of the tent). You can exhaust the air outside if you'd like and able to. Too much effort for me and it'll look odd with the ducting by the window and would draw unwanted attention.

I don't draw air from outside, just from within my room and I use the light blocking baffles from Secret Jardin - this is actually more for better passive air in take as without these the tent goes into some serious negative pressure and I feel the airflow suffers. @Budwizer has a really awesome and clever solution though!

Welcome, grow is looking good! Why not start a grow diary to keep us updated on the progress? You can also ask questions if need be

Your medium looks a bit dry, the edges are pulling away from the sides from what I can see - unless its just uneven levels of your soil / coco, Also PH sounds a bit high for my liking. I'd drop it to around 6.1 to 6.3. What are you using as nutrients or what are your plans?

@Prom I also dislike running my QB's very high, even 90W is a bit on the high side although they're capable of it. People just thumbsuck power figures now to help make the product appear more powerful. Also with additional diodes they can handle a bit more power. If running passive cooling, you may want to monitor the heatsinks though and considering moving your air circulation fan to blow over the top of the heatsinks a bit - keeping them cool will help prolong the lifespan of the diodes. As for multiple drivers, well, it also depends how many QB's you are running... I am running 2x drivers at the moment, so even if one driver does die (very unlikely to happen anytime soon after purchasing a new unit), I still have light going so not the end of the world until I get to take a look. I do have spare drivers so I could do a swap out and get at least some of the lights up and running again. With their 3 to 7 year warranties, I really don't think one needs to worry much about a Meanwell driver dieing within its warranty. Not saying it is not impossible and I have not actually used one for that long, although they have been making power supplies for years and I imagine they'd use quality components and caps etc. to ensure the drivers last at least for the warranty period. Otherwise you just get it swapped out under the warranty I guess. Curious to get some figures from you of how a QB with LM301B/h diodes compares against a TS3000 in terms of PAR and such. 6x QB288's at 450W vs a TS3000 which is 450W if I recall correctly? Spacing of the QB's would need to be optimized to ensure a nice even spread. That puts the QB's at 75W per QB, could try 5x QB288's vs a TS3000 as well but I personally dislike running the QB's higher than 90W each. They're more efficient when run a bit lower, although if you have access to a quantum sensor, you can do the tests and see what the sweet spot is I guess. Will be curious to find out

Oooh! I see more than 2 plants there.

Ahh man, sounds like bad luck. I personally like to soak in water for 12 hours or so, then I put them into paper towel and into a zip lock bag to ensure it stays moist. Then I put it into my grow area to keep it warm, after a few days when the tap root is showing I then plant into soil / coco.

How though? I am not aware of any gas heaters which can be hooked up to a thermostat to maintain temperatures. Having to turn it on / off the whole time is going to be such a pain.

I feel the bud looks better after a wash! I am curious who uses Hydrogen Peroxide when washing their bud and what strength do you use? Heard Hydrogen Peroxide is a good idea if you have PM or pests. Also do you guys keep your lemon and bicarb separate or mix them in the same bucket?

I personally use Blumats, the tropf (dripper) system. Although you can build your own dripper system.

I don't see that working very well or being very efficient. Those cheap fan heaters with a motor work well and even have a thermostat built into them!

Coco really isn't difficult to grow in or work with. A good soil will be forgiving as it has amendments to help buffer the PH and there are nutes in the soil and preferably some microbes which will break down the organic matter and continue producing more nutes etc. With a coco & perlite mix, you cannot over water your plants. If you do coco with fertigation then growth could be quicker than with soil. @Prom yeah, if you can get a quality pen which does it all then go for it. I think I paid like R250 for my PPM pen and then R850 I think for my PH pen, I have an HM Digital one and its' awesome. Certainly get proper storage solution and take car of your pen, rinse it off after taking measurements in high EC solutions etc. etc. I have never considered rain water, so have not looked into it. I have also never considered growing indoors in soil without nutes and if you are using soil inoculations you certainly do want to have a PH pen as that drops the PH quickly! Depending on what nutes you are using, EC / PPM is not needed although something like Hortimix I would recommend it as there isn't a proper chart provided. If the nutes and dosage you are using brings the PH down to the right level, then its easy and quicker - but the process for me has always been the same regardless of whether its for soil or coco. I have never had any loss at all, regardless of my medium. I do not understand how you guys find soil less work than coco... The experience has been about the same for me. Mix nutes, PH and feed to plants. Regardless of whether it is for coco or soil - what has saved me a looot of time is moving over to an automatic watering system as watering by hand is a ball ache and takes quite a lot of time. I now just mix my nutes in a tub, and it gets fed to the plants automatically - takes me around 10 minutes maybe as my tape is a bit slow to fill and I have to put the water into a bucket and then pour it into my res but still lot quicker than when I was watering by hand which would easily take me 45min.

Not really... There are soo many nutes out there. That Atami chart seems as if they just want you to buy more of their products. Something as simple as Hortimix would work and that is pretty cheap. I have been using GHE for my current grow and it's so simple to use and I have had zero issues so far. It's just 3 bottles and you mix them in a ratio according to the chart they provide on the bottle. EC / PPM pen, the cheaper ones are accurate enough. PH pen, not so much. The cheaper ones can be quite inaccurate and lose their calibration after testing one or two liquids of different PH. Coco vs soil, in terms of what is needed does not really differ much. You have the medium and then you use nutes, depending on the type of nutes you are using for both coco and soil you may need an EC / PPM pen or you may be able to get away with it just following the dosage charts provided by the nute manufacturer. PH I recommend you check and adjust for both soil and coco, some who grow in soil do not feel the need to check or adjust their PH though so you could maybe get away without a PH pen then. Coco typically does not have anything to help buffer the PH so checking and adjusting your PH is quite vital to ensure no lockout occurs.

Ahh, fair enough. I didn't really look into mixing my own soil and imagine that could help reduce the cost heavily. If one were to reuse soil or coco, it does help reduce the cost quite a bit but I think majority of people on this forum don't reuse their soil or coco - outdoor is a bit different of course. I did reuse soil once and didn't have any issues, but I feed with every watering so I didn't expect issues to appear due to the constant nutes. Mixing your own soil isn't a quick thing either as far as I understand, not like hydrating a brick of coco and buffering it which could be done in a day or two. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Quattro / all wheel drive is amazing! Makes such a big difference in a car with lots of power, or even moderate amounts of power. A friend use to have an S3 with some mods, so not a ton of power but above average and the lack of wheel spin is a game changer in terms of 0 - 100 and quarter mile etc. Depending on the type of person you are, some still prefer RWD although AWD is fun in a different way. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Well for me it's remove the dpf and do a tune. Some call it stage 1, others call it stage 2. I have a ZF gearbox in my car, they're pretty decent! Not dual clutch or anything but performs well and can only imagine how much better it'll be after a software flash. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

If we're talking about growing cheaply in terms of actual cost to run a grow. I think hydro may be the cheapest. Water is practically free, nutes you barely use any only on a res change or the occasional tip up if the EC is dropping a bit too low. Equipment is typically a once off cost or will last you a good while at least, multiple grows. I feel coco is cheaper than soil due to the price of soil and the fact I can buy 5kg coco bricks and 100L of perlite for next to nothing. I personally wouldn't run a soil grow without providing nutes, I know some do and have seen a few grows on the forum as such although it's just not for me. Nutes for coco and soil are the same, you can get cheap ones and expensive ones. Same goes for hydro. Organic nutes such as Biobizz aren't all that cheap, but not terribly expensive either. You get expensive mineral nutes too. Equipment aside, I feel soil is actually the most expensive growing method and I also feel that'd why there has been so much marketing and buzz behind it. I started with soil and have since moved away from it. No regret from my side. It has its place for sure, although don't be fooled into thinking its cheap. Also when I was not correcting my pH with my organic grows, that is the only time I had nute lockout issues and that was corrected once I started correcting my pH levels. Often soil has amendments to help buffer the pH level but it does not mean you should not still check your feed and pH it. Depending on what nutes you're using with your soil, you'll still need an EC pen. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

I enjoy my vehicles although have to hold myself back a bit and remind myself to be sensible. So I have a 750cc inline 4 bike and currently have a German 2L diesel car, which I wanna do a stage 1 or 2 on to help her breath a respond a bit better as well as do a software flash on the gearbox. In terms of bikes I do not do off road or dualies, I prefer more a sport tourer or sport bike as opposed to a super bike (super uncomfortable for daily commuting). Neither are over the top, although sufficient and can still allow for a bit of fun and can be seen as sensible. Would love a 3L diesel, the torque one can get from those is insane! I have heard of people having to limit the torque on their tune as their gearboxes can not handle more (auto's). Although a 3L twin turbo petrol would be lots of fun too, but really not something I need as a daily and would be more of a toy. Spending such money for a toy at this point is hard to justify. Same goes for my bike, would love to get something a litter bigger and newer, a BMW S1000R (single R, not RR) would be looovely but I really do not need it. Hard to justify spending the $$$. Never got into doing the mechanical work myself, never really had anyone to help me with it growing up and never had the space either - perhaps not such a bad thing though... Who knows what I may have gotten upto. I almost ended up with a Civic Type-R (FN2), nice cars but forced induction is a lot more fun.

I agree with @SkunkPharm coco is coco, keep it simple and if you wanna go coco use plain coco or perhaps a coco / perlite mixture. If you are getting the coco for free, then take whichever gets you more medium end of the day. Do NOT skimp on a PH pen, for an EC meter you can go cheap as it does not matter as much. If I had to chose between the two, the bi gro seems to not have any perlite in it? So you could add some perlite to stretch the medium a bit more. Not sure how I feel about putting a seedling into coco with an EC of around 1.7 though... The High Porosity seems to have more amendments in it... for Coco, I want to keep it plain and simple as this allows me to have more control over the grow and what the plants get.

Exactly, I believe the H does has a slightly different coating though although could be wrong. @Prom regarding the LED drivers, upto you really. I'd also suggest 240w for 2x QB288's or 480W for 4x QB288's, you could get away with less though depending on how much power you're going to be giving them. If you want to give them 120W, they may get a bit warm and I'd suggest having your fan for air circulation blow over the heatsinks... Typically people do not run QB's that high, I personally don't at least. Meanwell's HLG range comes in 480w and has a higher efficiency and longer warranty than their ELG and XLG range which both have a 240w version. As for which version of the driver you want, depends on what you want it to do in terms of dimming and operation etc. Are you happy to dim via potentiometers on the driver or do you want an external knob to dim with?

I think those lights may be more for growing herbs or house plants perhaps. A single one is not ideal for cannabis, although make use of it for now I guess but you will likely struggle as the plant gets larger. You have any other light you can use along with it?