Ill_Evan

Sounds pretty pro to me perfect advice.

They were the only people at the time that sold Dinafem, I had the Deep Sweet Grapefruit. Was fortunate to have just one seed germinate which at the time was all I needed

It'd be better if they just had a picture of the packet instead of hastily posting some random stock images.

Overgrow were the first guys I ever bought from, back when they were still called South African Medicinal Seeds or something. I'm glad they are now achieving some recognition. They are definitely the underdogs.

My most recent seed purchase was from Cape Coast Hybrids. Bought some Ripper Seeds, 5/9 popped. I did wait a while before popping and I didn't store the seeds in a fridge, but it is what it is.

I've moved your question here. Feel free to first read the thread then reply below.

He physically inhales the air from inside the tent, runs outside and exhales. Repeat until power comes back on.

Roughly up to 60% in my experience, which isn't terrible but also not totally optimal. If it were to spike higher at any point you'd be at risk of PM at the worst time, hence I use the dehumidifier at that time to make sure it doesn't go any higher than 50% at the very least. Anything more than 6 straight hours of uninterrupted darkness will start to cause problems. Do as @Apoche Alypse said and just run 24/7, you'll get the recommended darkness periods for clones/veg whenever loadshedding hits.

Healthy!

Humidity will always vary with the weather. Right now it's pegged in the low 30's for me lights on or off. As soon as it starts raining again or I am in late flower, that's when I'll slap the humidifier on to max and let it do it's thing. Edit: The biggest factor to humidity in a tent is ventilation. You have to suck the air out of the tent and then preferably outside a window. If it's just blasting the air back into the room you will definitely need a dehumidifier regardless to manage the general environment.

At permanent stage 6 it's gonna be hard. If it were somebody new I would tell them to start really small so that if they got really into it they can at least then invest in a small trolley inverter for the whole system and keep it small scale. For somebody growing not just for themselves then it's gonna be an issue. At this time I'd probably push towards outdoor/greenhouse if I hadn't already put so much into the indoor space already. Live in an area excluded from loadshedding, and when the cables get stolen from time to time use a inverter/battery/solar system. Even then, if the power is out for a day and it's cloudy outside the batteries would only last about 4 hours and that's running maybe at 25% light output. What I usually do if I expect a long time with no power is I at the very least run the ventilation and then put the lighting schedule to run on/off in 3 hour intervals if in veg stage. If in flower stage I leave the schedule as is. Oh yeah dude. Guys are making plans out here. The indoor must flow.

This is more of a question by me than an answer, but would hanging some greenhouse cover over the plant help?

Fish emulsion is high in Nitrogen.

Without additional information it could be either heat stress of overwatering.

For what purpose? To purchase cannabis products on your insurance plan? You can already do that via the Medicines Act. You'd have to get a prescription from a doctor and then only use cannabis products provided by a registered pharmacy that stocks medicinal cannabis. One such place is THC Africa run by the De Beers. Yes, those same De Beers.

This is very important during the Summer months. Ventilation is crucial during loadshedding at the very least. Even just 4 hours of 100% humidity caused a couple of my nuggets to rot.

Good recovery.

Yikes!

Ja guys come now, sales don't last forever

I'd prune the rot bits off and give it another week or so. It still looks a bit early to harvest. Try your best to keep the plant out of any direct rain for the meantime until you do decide to harvest. If you can, try get a close-up picture of the trichomes. That will be the best way to tell how ready the plant is for harvest.

No, all the rot will need to be thrown away and any bud attached to it as well. The top still looks fine, but you'll only know once you harvest and look into the centre. An Auto is a plant that doesn't need its daylight hours shortened in order to start flowering. Assuming that is a recent picture and you grew it outside at this time of year, it would be safe to assume that your plant is an Auto.

This year I decided to not have anything in flower indoors during December/January. Just changing up the grow schedule a bit has saved me a lot on power and AC usage, and the lack of PM/bud rot is also great