1000Hills Nursery

Sounds interesting... if you find info... share share share

I agree with the less not always more. More especially in a medium like coco. You don't feed enough, your yield will suffer. 800PPM is safe for most strains and should be a starting target. Apparently sulphur boosts resin production, I can't say that I have definitely noticed a difference. But there's enough information out there on sulphur and it's relation to plants in general and essential oils production. I add additional sulphur by upping my dose of Epsom salts. Seeing as I grow in coco the plant enjoys/unphased by the extra magnesium that would come part of the package. So in flower I add roughly 70PPM of Epsom salts throughout. I bump it up to 150PPM and stop Cal N a week or so before flush.

I use to also feed veg Nutes first few weeks of bloom. The positive of this is plants stay greener during flower for longer. The negative I noticed was plants take longer to finish and they harder to flush with regards to the way they fade. I start bloom nutes and add a little extra phosphorus at flip. Then I start adding small doses of PK. Week 4 is my PK week where I load them. From about 200ppm-300ppm for the duration(strain dependant). After that I taper down and then add a little extra sulphur close to flush. Note, this is what I do for additives. Base nutes is compulsory and I increase PPM weekly up to flush. All this discussing nutrition is awesome. Keep it coming guys. Let's learn from each other.

Buddy I've messed around with HPS long time. I only use magnetic gear and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. Positioning of the ballasts are important to avoid fire hazards, etc. The magnetic ballasts can be kept remotely. I have plenty spares. You need some information on how to test/repair or what yield to expect out of them feel free to ask me. Post your set-up, maybe we can advise you while you busy completing it.

@greenkush Again I think we arguing about something without you understanding what I was saying. I had to re-read my previous messages to find what you had an issue with that was incorrect. I'm assuming it was this 1st statement I mentioned that I pasted below. Am I correct? I don't mind explaining it to you, you might learn something you didn't about climate control with limited equipment. ''The exhaust of the aircon that blows hot air which is supposed to be ducted outside comes in handy at light OFF at increasing temperatures so that the aircon side can remove humidity. This way doesn't allow the humidity to be in the 50's constantly at Lights OFF but does enough to keep humidity from reaching 70%. Tried and tested no mold or PM.''

@DankFiend Thanks for sharing buddy. Automatic temperature control - the most important part of this exercise, does your aircon have an auto ON function when power is interrupted? If yes then all you need is a temperature controller with probe and a contactor. My veg room climate control My flower room climate control which has a few extra safeties to avoid high temperature scenarios in case of aircon failure etc. This pic is a bit old and have since done a few more upgrades. I think its time I share my full grow set-up so I'll start a new grow diary next week when I cut clones and flip with all my rooms including breeding chamber showing everything from climate control to drainage, how I dampen exhaust fan sound with acoustic boxes and any other little things that will be helpful to those that are as hungry as I am to take things to the next level.

January is a swak month for most of us puzzlers. Fingers crossed for your upgrades. Glad things are still decent in the garden and can't wait to see the results when you reach the finish line. Here in durban we have been going through a heatwave the last couple of weeks. Couple that with HID lighting and my veg room took a beating but I managed to push through and get them into the flower room. Strangely my outdoor gals have seemed unphased and are pushing along like champs.

Lucky bashterdno wonder why dehumidifier sales have plummeted in GP. Humidity is a big issue for us on the coast. A good idea for you to cool your room slightly at a low cost would be one of those aircooling fans that uses water(seeing as you already have low humidity). It will help keep your max temp from climbing to 29C and even higher when outside temps go into the 30s so you can preserve more terps and reduce the amount of smells being omitted from your garden.

My plants transpire like crazy at lights OFF. @GGG also has the same issue with high humidity at lights OFF. Please explain how would we lower humidity whilst not making the room too cold when the lights are OFF with just a portable aircon?

The cheapest(initial + running costs) way to maintain okay enough conditions that should keep you PM free from most strains would be to use a portable aircon. The exhaust of the aircon that blows hot air which is supposed to be ducted outside comes in handy at light OFF at increasing temperatures so that the aircon side can remove humidity. This way doesn't allow the humidity to be in the 50's constantly at Lights OFF but does enough to keep humidity from reaching 70%. Tried and tested no mold or PM. By no way is this better then having an aircon and dehumidifier it's just the most cost efficient way. I've seen 2nd hand units go for as cheap as 2k on gumtree. All the luck and hope you ride this wave all the way to the shore.

Silica will only work against PM as a foliar spray because of it's high PH. You don't want to be spraying your plants in flower with silica. Apparently silica strengthens the leaves etc which helps the plant resistances against pests and pathogens and should be used from early veg to flip as a foliar. It's quite difficult making silica available through drench because of its reaction with other elements and ph. I personally haven't noticed any difference between using it and not. Is the milk/water mix not working?

@DankFiend Thanks buddy. Wishing you a smooth ride to the end.

@GGG All those you mentioned make a difference for different parts of the grow. The booster and MKP 100% increase yield and bulk up flowers when used correctly. I haven't used GH booster but I can imagine it's derived from mkp and has humates etc in it as well. MKP salts is actually a very primitive way in cannabis horticulture to provide extra P and K to the plant but it works and because we limited to what bloom boosters are available here locally and MKP is very cheap, I imagine it's what most of us use as a basis. Ripen is just there to provide some simple forms of P, K and some enzymes to synthesize remaining nutes in medium. And also help the trichs ripen faster apparently. I've stopped using ripener as it never really showed me much difference. My plants didn't finish any earlier and it's hard to gauge resin production when all plants are always sticky. I would think that ripen might increase weight a little as you will still be giving plants some pk instead of just plain water. Hopefully with more of us sharing our grows we will get more answers on what products make a difference.

@GGG Now comes the tricky part, lowering the lights out humidity somehow. Without a dehumidifier or ac it is quite difficult. Add a heat source (heater, etc) in the lung room as PM prefers cool moist conditions, so by warming things up you emulating the lights ON conditions when your grow lights are warming up the room and making conditions a little less conducive. Prior to me getting proper climate control I found a few tricks that worked okay as a make a plan. One was to exhaust air from my veg room into the flower room at lights OFF. I'm really glad that the spray is already showing its working. I will definitely try it on my outdoor gals close to the end of the season when PM always pays a visit.

What a happy garden, well done... Strange how it works. My garden is bigger and badder then its ever been yet I too spend way less time in the garden then I use to. Then you just get those days where you just have to put in the hours. I'm starting to feel more confident about this blue cheese line with regards to uniformity. I'm still in veg and it doesn't mean much yet but all 3 of my blue cheese plants are exactly the same. The 3 triple cheese are all slightly different. How has the stretch been so far? Any smells been given off yet? Apparently it's a short to medium height strain. And btw thanks for sharing

@Bakstein420 Bru I agree on needing to win the lotto to buy that

@Trailblazer420 My bong broke last night... so just made a quick 5 minute plan... Then 3 bongs later spent another minute with a quick upgrade.

@Naughty.Psychonaut Welcome bru. I'm pretty new here too and also at one point in my life really burnt the midnight oil researching everything I could about this plant. And now I've found this bunch, a whole lot of people that share my passion for this plant. And the best part is this is fully local. Your garden is looking awesome bru. Keep up the good work. Maybe treat the lower buds to some selective defoliation on top to get lower buds to mature. Not sure how far along you are, looks like around day 35. Stay blessed and have a good weekend. My wind down... How more local does it get...

@Kato Start a grow diary buddy, you got a nice garden, lots of ideas in there that will be helpful to alot of growers.

@Kato Nice buddy. Can see you have put alot of work into getting your garden where it is. I like what you got going on for drainage. Care to share how that works. Water collects in the tray and you empty it out?

Would love to steal some of your tea knowledge... more especially how to bump up phosphorus and potassium in teas.

The fun and games of dwc... When I had a 4 site big Jim rough tote veg bucket, roots used to get tangled. They didn't seem to mind having the tangled roots cut off thou. Still amazes me how quick recovery takes place. I hated when the roots blocked off drain pipes thou and caused floods. Eventually linked all buckets with 110mm pipes hydrohybrid style. The next system I'd build when I get the balls would be like lokigro's. I'm assuming you know these mentioned growers.

@CreX Sounds exciting, you might just convince me to not fear root slime and root rot. Btw I know they both different pathogens but I couple them as I've always seen both together in dwc.

I will definitely want to see this approach work, might sway me back to rdwc in one of my rooms without the expensive ass water chiller that I thought I definitely needed on a multiple site.