1000Hills Nursery

@Smelly Joe how's the gal's doing?

Yeah me too. And all this cos I misread the LST...

I haven't done any breeding as yet so I can't say that I've personally done that. It's definitely not for seeds. I watched Kevin Jodrey series of interviews called 'meet the breeders'. (Check it out, it's awesome, you will know what I know about what the breeders have to say). Mean Gene mentioned that they would purposely mess with light cycles to fish out plants that are most susceptible to herming amongst many other stress tactics for pm etc when trying to stabilize a line. Sounds outrageous to you... but we talking about some of the pioneers of cannabis breeding here. And then it was also mentioned that the word stabilizing nowadays has 2 meanings. 1 being it's been stabilized to not herm and the other being the original use of the word where they stabilizing a strain to all grow the same and not have a lot of diversity.

Well it's perfect that you don't want to try fill that space. Atleast you can have space for a cupboard or something that you can store your nutes and general growing related items. And space to move around and work on your plants. 400grams combined yield would be a good yield out of those lights. I know a lot of guys are using LEDs, maybe they can point you in the right direction So you can slowly upgrade in the future. You will win on the heat issue, on consumption or yield more with the same power draw.

What's light stress training? Interrupting their light cycles like what breeders do or having the lights too close?

Late flowering is strain dependant. If you buying your seeds then breeders have information about time duration of that strain to give you a guideline. So when your plant has stopped pushing out white hairs and the trichs are mostly cloudy you can stop nutes and use ripen on its OWN for a week and then just plain water to chop down. The instructions for the floraseries and ripen are on the bottles. Read it and follow it. 8-9week strain, I would start paying attention for the above from around day 50. If you have enough light and air exchange you can go full strength and above safely for most strains. So based on that you have to adjust the ratios. And that question about cutting sugar leaves you need to forget it and never ask that again.(the only time you should be cutting sugar leaves is when you trimming your buds). Get more experience before doing any defoliation from midflower onwards.

Don't be sad, the sugar leaves and larfies aren't very potent without a cure. Jar them and wait atleast 2 weeks... you might be surprised... Next round go for strains that finish early... 7-8weeks. You have some experience under your belt so it's only going to get easier.

Shot dude. I ended up finding another 1. So now I have 2 gaps in my canopy. Both these plants were breed by phenofinder genetics. Both had beautiful bud set but we're through and through hermaphrodites. Did a major defoliation At day 20, 6 days later then usual due to commitments. Guess that's what it took for these plants to show their true nature. But it's water under the bridge, those 2 and their respective clones have all been culled.

Puff puff pass... It's cool brother. We are all only as good as the mistakes we've learnt from. And if you see someone go through something you have already its hard not to say anything. I apologise if I was harsh, I saw that message just after I found a hermie in my garden day 26 flower and those pollen sacks looked a few days from causing kak so you can imagine...

Honestly bud... you don't have enough light for that space. At a most I would say both your lights would provide a footprint of about 1200mm x 600mm. You could probably pull 400grams.

Hi and welcome. Yeah those temps are too high. It will cause too many issues to mention. At minimum you need an extractor fan with a static intake from the side of the shed that gets the least direct sunlight. If the sheds roof overhangs the side a bit I would put the ballast there in an enclosure with the lid off or alternatively it should be in front of the extractor so that it's heat is directly extracted.

@Dank Before I jump the gun too much I need to find some males. I've got a few good females that have not hermed that I want to pollinate. I plan on doing some random crosses not really based on locking in traits but to produce seeds that I can grow out and search for something new. My question... should I keep copies of the males I use?

No more gnats...

Not sure about your statement about someone being good and laughing but for now I'll assume it isn't sarcasm. I'm no pro and I'm new to this forum so I don't know who needs advice and who doesn't. If you don't want my input I'll gladly refrain. Okay moving on... Don't stress about synthetics. It's much easier than organics. It's a lot quicker to fix issues and ofcourse a lot quicker to create issues. The most important part of synthetics is mixing your nutes in the correct order or else you going to have certain elements falling out of solution which leads to interrupting the buffering and ph issues. Unfortunately you not going to get rid of them fungus gnats with that 50/50 mix. Once those plants are established you going to have to feed them at a minimum once a day which isn't going to give you enough top soil dry out time to stop the gnats hence why I moved to using coco with no perlite. And then you have plastic pots with holes on the bottom which gnats love. You want to get rid of gnats... at next transplant either line the bottom inside of the pot with weed guard fabric or use a fabric pot and put a layer of silica pool filter sand on top. No more gnats

I would definitely leave fans and ventilation on 24/7. Monitor that plant that has the cupping effect on the leaves. It's not the normal lights off droop. Might be 1st signs that something is going wrong in the medium. Either unbuffered coco and/or to the ph is off. Check ph and ec of run off so you can get some peace of mind. Atleast you in coco so it will be easy to correct.

Cheers to us building our own real life community here in sa. Our own collaborations. Searching and sharing... I've got a small taste of what it feels like to share my cuts and have someone else grow plants that I've grown many times over and just see how they express themselves differently. It's a happy rewarding feeling, hence why I want to now take the next step and do some home breeding and make some seeds that I can grow and share. Just glad I've met guys like you that have already been doing this and can stop me from making some amateur breeding mistakes. I've just kicked off something that I never imagined I would do... planted my seeds in search of a stud. Fingers crossed I find one that ticks all the boxes.

@Dank imagine if we had access to some of the clones from Wonderland Nurseries. That guy Keven sifts through 1000s of plants before selecting his keepers. Use to watch all his videos back in the day... On another note Mendo Dope who now have become Greenshock Farms are going to start selling seeds. All their Tropical Sley Ride crosses... @Cannabist you need to hook us up with the genetics from California brother.

Yeah I must agree on the not touching of buds. I rub the undersides of the sugar leaves to get a smell of the terps. I haven't used any of those inoculations in coco but I would love to try it. Damping off is . I'm quite ocd when it comes to sanitizing everything before germination. I strictly only use those coco plugs to start seeds. And then face a fan directly at the tops of them for a few hours just to dry the tops a bit before they sprout. I haven't had a single damping off this way. Domes and reusing substrates definitely increases chances of damping off. It really sucks when you see a beautiful little sprout emerge and then start to grow its beautiful little 1st true leaves and then all of a sudden... bom bom bom...

I meant locally but thanks

So it's quite pistil friendly... impressive Besides pollination almost anything can kill them pistils, touching your buds or bicarb spray etc

Any idea where? I want to use sulphur on alternate runs before I get any resistances to what I'm using.

Does it turn the pistils red?

I agree. It was more of a need to know basis.

Do you use it in flower?

Thank you. Great share. How effective is aqsv when you find pm in the garden.