Naughty.Psychonaut

seperation happening, curd forming

GD was moved to other tent, going for a monocrop here. cleaned up except the one still bouncing back from over feed - bottom right - opened up the rest just a little.

growing along, still gona veg for a while. took the Pineapple Chunk out, took her mulch layer off, leaving her outside in full sun to help her dry a bit quicker. replaced it with a Grape Diamond plant. she started flowering outside. had to cut her back for clones, put her under 18/6 to reveg. wish I planned to fill the tent with just one strain. one corner looking sad hahah

the trick with micro organisms in most cases is that they're most effective when there are colonies "fighting" it out between eachother. instead of having a dominant bacteria or enzyme. you don't want anything to dominate. that's where things go wrong. when researching microbes in a lab you don't just grow the microbes, you give them challenges almost like "torture test" them by having them grow amongst other microbes and see what it does. everytime the micro organism interacts with another one that's new information to be studied. 100% of the time when a dominant culture comes in contact with another culture it starts to produce some sort of metabolites. as humans we owe a ton of research to this, but what we know so far is that if left alone to dominate the culture will geographically define itself by consuming everything in its path untill it has to fruit or create a reproductive body. this is a problem. but if presented with challenges or other micro organisms it creates secondary metabolites in forms of exudates - not a challenge as in let it dry out and see if it lives, I mean challenges in forms of other micro organisms. the exudates from competing colonies of organisms, be it bacteria, fungi or even pathogens is what builds a healthy immune system in the soil. same way a vaccine works. this might seem counterintuitive, but the concept of "good" and "bad" exists as one in nature. we just kind a labled things how we see them to make it easier for us to understand certain other aspects of our own lives, but ask yourself, how is it possible to have 100% healthy mycelium in nature thriving where Trichoderma is ever present? It's because of balanced diversity. there are wars going on under the soil between the micro organisms competing for dominance and the dead soldiers are the exudates. they're also the reason for the health in the soil. there can be no life without death. the concept of micro organism in soil, in many ways, act a lot like food in a humans gut. in the sense that if you eat a bunch of the same thing over a long period of time, even if it's healthy and good for you, rather than it helping you it will begin to become a problem for you. your immune system goes to shit if you don't keep the stuff in your gut diverse. you don't need to really understand the science behind it to understand that part. in the same sense that soil does not benefit from having a butt load of the same stuff or any of the beneficial stuff just because it's beneficial... you kinda have to get the balance right and understand the way these colonies function and what they're actually doing. they don't know what you expect of them, so you kinda have to know the only thing they trying to do is thrive. and even if it's a beneficial fungi/bacteria you don't want it to thrive, so you have to keep adding other bacteria and enzymes that all wana thrive aswell and give the "dominant" culture a run for it's money. they "fight it out" by trying to cover as much area space possible and where they cross paths or come to a stand off they battle it out and this creates the secondary metabolites, exudates and all the trace minerals. people tend to think all micro organisms act like fungal networks, where with fungal networks you want a dominant culture. but with enzymes and bacteria you want diverse cultures. and then the most important part will be moderation. seeing as this is my second SST I ever made I will hold off on the SST for about 6 months and when I do it again I'll be sure to use all different seeds than I used this time. that's the key. In the meantime I'll be doing different ferments and going for different things each time. not gona keep making the same FPJ or FFJ's have to use different stuff each time and as it's much higher in minerals I'll be using it intermittently at rates of 1 to 5ml / L of water. I am still new to all this so I hope I won't be eating my words any time soon though I got a better understanding of mycology than soil science, I am trying to tie two ends together which can cause more confusion cause not everything translates directly, but the two things can also be looked at as one whole and it's not like I am trying to do something new here. this way of gardening has been on going for the longest time. thousands of years. we're more advanced now in 2022, I hope to understand it all one day, but the learning never stops. never wana reach a point where I try to claim I know it all because that's when we stop learning anything new.

Thanks man, I definitly needed to hear that hahah this stuff is so cheap and easy I can really see myself getting carried away with it I have heard quite a bunch of people say I can over do it with the SST and just to be carefull with any of the teas and ferments. I made this batch to inoculate the cooking soil, but I know it's gona be way too much, so I'll be giving some to the whole garden. this will be the second time I ever made SST, with the first time being 2 weeks ago. I'll let a couple months go by before making it again and hope to gain more knowledge on it in this time. I put the pulp in my worm tower, so they can turn it into casting before I am gona use it. after this I'll be collecting IMO and leaf mold to make some FPJ from the new growth on the local flora. it's spring so loads of auxin hormones around. wana make some FFJ for my ladies going into flower. going down the korean natural farming rabbit hole, but some of those things can be quite complicated and if not done right can cause more harm than good, but getting to know it and understanding it better will bring a more sustainable way of gardening. so I feel it's quite a good rabbit hole to go down. I heard I guy say enzymes are like millions of different kinds of keys to millions of different kinds of locks and the locks are the trace minerals and micronutrients. it's always easy to guess the macro nutrients and say "I need N or P or K" but how do you know when and what of any of the other elements it is, or could be? So when adding enzymes, it's pointless to add a whole bunch of one specific kind of enzyme that only does one thing, you need to add the whole group of enzymes, the more diverse the better. which makes the most sense to me. Instead of adding a lot of one thing, rather add smaller amounts of a wider variety of things. This is what I'll be going for.

it's not that much work hahah I am planning to do way more! I want to introduce as wide a variety of different kinds of enzymes, bacteria and fungi as I can without doing something crazy. starting with the more simple stuff. I will be using the malted barley in my teas aswell, never grinded them up though. gona do that next time!

SST - everything sprouted, straight into the blender strain out the juice from the pulp the red speckled beans made a cream collect the pulp, super food for th worms add about 500ml to about 10L of tap water that's been aerated to get the chlorine out, because with the SST I also add about 2 to 3g of BioCult. 5minutes after adding this to the bubbling water I'll be using most of this tonight when I get home, won't let this brew for more than 24hrs and by then I'll want to have used it all. never let it sit without aeration. I'll start by using it for what it was made for, inoculating the "cooking" soil or basically just keeping it alive. then 300 to 500ml to each of my bigger plants depending on how wet the soil already is. If the plant needs nutes I'll add half to a third dose to this. I'll add another 10L of rain water if I have, which I don't right now, so I'll use 3phase filter water to fill the brew back up, give it a few good stirs so the brew is even more diluted then I just go crazy with it all over the rest of the garden. LABS - rice wash water, day 3, started smelling sweet, looked like a very very thin layer of some sort of colony forming on top so I am assuming the thing started happening... if left too long here and it starts smelling sour, just pour it straight onto some garden soil and start over. get it while it's still sweet. this is about 500ml, pour the RWW into a glass jar big enough to fill 6 to 10x the amount of the RWW, I just had a 3L jar laying around. to this you wana the least processed milk you can find, straight from the cow tit is the best you can use store bought milk, the higher the fat the better and the more "long life" it is the more it's been processed so a rule of thumb - the quicker it goes bad from fresh the healthier and more alive it is. so do with that informarion what you will.... best I could get on a Sunday afternoon was high fat fresh milk from the shop. added 2L of the milk to the 500ml of RWW. keep at room temperature in a dark dry place with good ventilation. Day 1 -

It was time to get better soil for my ladies, gathered a few ingredients, made a 180L batch that's "cooking" for my next batch. Thinking of going no till as I am basically creating a living garden bed here and I don't like worms in small pots. they need space. I don't really wana take from these pots after this, but I'll have to empty them out into smaller pots for my indoor grows and I don't wana disturb what I have created now. got a bunch of red wrigglers, started a worm tower to collect some castings for teas and top dressing in future. added 150g of worms to the tower and devided another 150g up between a 100L pot and a 80L pot. roughly went for a ratio of 30% spent soil (ff premium classic) 30% medical grade peat moss and 30% leca hydrorocks. the last 10% as amendments. garden math, I love it. the peat - also using this 50/50 with perlite for clones, works nice. Here is a photo of the soil underneath the layer of mulch - I used hay as I have a ton for the mushroom stuff, but it's only for the time being. I have 12 different cover crop sown, will discuss that, but I'll thin out the mulch after a couple days for cover crop to come through. in future I'll be using alfalfa as mulch. I moved the hay a little for the pgohoto and the very first spot I open you can see a worm bro working the soil. added a bag of elemental blend to each pot along with kelp flakes, insect frass and diatomaceous earth. the first batch of SST and LABS I made was way too much, whole garden got treated as I didn't wana keep the stuff so both these pots got soaked with it. The way I made the treatment was 18L tap water, aerated for 12hrs to get rid of the chlorine just so it doesn't hurt the microbes (I know cannabis plants need minute amount if chlorine, but just cause I am adding microbes to this batch, I want the worst of it out), I added about 5grams of biocult - which is almost overkill, it's surely more than enough - I add about 1L of the SST juice and 300ml LABS. as soon as I add the stuff to the aerating water it foams up over the top of the bucket. just walked around the garden soaking everything with it. made about 6 batches of it, which came out to be about 120L already busy with the next batch. who's making these? SST day 1 - soak. I use dechlorinated water all the way when working with microbes, and I know I am after enzymes here, but just keep reading.... I used red speckled beans, corn, pearl barley and malted barley Day 2 - pour off water, let it stand in the jars. (I start the barley a day later, because they usually sprout quicker) Day 3 - Sprouts on the beans and corn, barley will have sprouts by tomorrow then they get blended up with 50/50 sprouts/dechlorinated tap water. - don't want sprouts to get too long, I am after the enzymes which are at their most prolific right when the seed pops and first sign of root shows. will update process LABS - I don't know if my first batch came out right, but since it's cheap as shit I'm gona keep trying so I can better understand it all. If anyone knows how to make the mozarella from the curd, let's talk? I had tastic, so I used tastic, rice wash for 15min with dechlorinated tap water. Pour the water off, feed the rice to the worms. Let the rice wash water stand untill it smells sweet... this is where I am at right now. will update process 12 cover crops, come to think of it, it's 14 now. as we all know when it comes to cover crops, diversity is key. here is my list (everything the grow shop had) Sweet Basil, Chamomile, Coriander, Dill, Sunflower, Marigold, White Clover, Red Clover, Nasturtium, Chrysanthemum, Borage, Lucerne then I also added a little bit of Barley and some Sorghum I had laying around. Worm tower - bedding - spent soil + hay. top bin got grass clippings, green grass and wild foliage from our local area. topped with dried bush twigs and leaves and more hay. the dried leaves have quite a bit of IMO on it, other than that, kitchen scraps, dried garden clippings, green garden clippings. I also feed mycelium grain cultures than I don't used and I have dumped a few liquid cultures in there aswell that I was unsure of mycelium landscape liquid cultures mycelium clouds mycelium metabolics here is an interesting one, I was told that there is some contamination present and the mycelium is trying to get away from it by reproducing. so what I have here is a tiny mushroom fruiting inside of a agar "petri dish", and yes, that's a cubensis hahah. last photo shows outer edge of the mycelial growth on the agar turning blue, not trichoderma, that is blue from bruising. mycelium from most psilocybin species, just like the mushroom fruit body itself, turn blue when stressed or bruised. so I think maybe some kinda environmental issue as I obviously haven't touched these. a day or two after I saw the tiny mushroom cobweb mold took over and now it's fucked. I am about to toss it into the worm bin, hope the worms enjoy it anyway, I probably left out a lot, but already feel like I am saying too much I am new to all this so if there's any do's or don'ts you guys know of, any secrets, I would love to hear some! have a lekker slow and steady sunday all!

Hey bud, hope you are well It was just the Pineapple Chunk that got the flush, one in the front left spot you can see she's quite stressed. I could possibly remove her mulch, but now that she is in a more acceptable EC range she'll be sucking the soil dry a bit quicker. hopefully. will see what she does by tonight then make a move. I am just now recently beginning to get a better understanding of how little I really know about organics well, I mean... I've always known, but like they say, ignorance is bliss! Just chatting to the right people and seeing the right kinda stuff will really do something crazy for ones perspective. I feel like I owe my plants and myself a lot of work and a lot more understanding and with it all comes better practices. You can read a book till you can recite the words from memory, but do the thing then you see it's a whole different ball game. Plus, I just wana get better at growing weed thanks for the kind words I see you still pumping the plants over there doing the good things, keep well brother!

Ok, so it seems the Zweet Inzanity enjoyed their time in the hot house. The soil they where planted into was relatively freshly cooked, so one of the 4 plants showing a bit of stress right now, but I already know why and half way to recovery already. the plant in the middle is a Grape Diamond mother that was getting big outside and went into flower, but wont be able to finish, so cut her back a whole bunch to start my next batch, got 5 clones of her... monocrop plus a new mother, luckily we moving towards veg cycle outdoors so they can just be left outside for now. still got the 150w LED flood light on them from 18.00 till 22.00 then from 22.00 till 06.00 they sleep.

Well... Guys and girls, this is what it looks like when you neglect your plants for a while and believe me, I tried to make them look as pretty as I possibly can before the photo was taken. obviously one plant in the corner, Pineapple Chunk, still stressing hard. Flushed her, somehow her soil EC was sitting at 7.0, but she never showed stress with transplant, but now that she's "bigger" she's stressing about too much nutes.... What you guys think? Lockout? Root damage? 3 Super Cheese plants all got stripped of old dying leaves of which there where plenty, main branches selected, nodes stripped. Scrog net pulled down to open them up for shorter branches to come through. first time for me using mulch. sometimes it helps to see your situation from further away, cause had it not been for my negligence I would probably not have noticed how dead my "living soil" was... made some AACT with rainwater, wormcastings as a base, molasses, alfalfa for loads of enzymes and trace minerals, SST juice for more enzymes and trace minerals, the pulp was mixed into top layer of soil for even more enzymes and trace minerals and encouraging bacterial and fungal growth and since I added a buffet of food for fungi, just as a cherry on top of the cake, some more fungi, a heap of biocult. diluted it down 50/50 with more rain water. gave each plant like 500ml and then topdressed with hay. getting into watering less at a time, but more frequently, as my topsoil was dying while the bottom of the pot was still wet. can't have that. Also looking into the whole KNF thing? Who's into this stuff? I tried making LABs once, stunk up the whole house.... anway, back to normal

Holding the grow in high hopes Mr.Fisherman with autos it's one and done, no room for mistakes with those plants, no time to clone them either. I am still way too scared to try autos in fear of not doing everything 100% and ending up with only 10g. still very excited to see the grow

600w of any light will cause more kak in a 60x60 tent if you can't dim it down a whole bunch 600w of LED is even overkill in a 1m2 space. LED gardener suggests the golden standard at 300w/1m2. this is considering you got the right output in terms of K/L.

No. pulling the same amount of wattage from the wall for the same amount of hours gives you the same amount on the electricity bill. I wish it was just black and white though, but when concidering the output you are paying more for less, together with the speed of degredation from the HID bulbs and ballasts, trying to keep them cool so they don't run out too fast, if you wana add to that grab a proper light meter and let's get real sciency. 600w LED gona give you best output over a longer period of time with less maintenance. where as we all know why HID have to be maintained/replaced from time to time, cause the gradient is even steeper when looking at the PAR output over a longer time period. so do you pay more for less? yes

Hope everyone is doing well! Life is just life-ing, been away from home a lot, couldn't have expected my plants to stay in the best shape Had one or two nights a week I would be able to pop in and see if everythings OK, so for about just under a month the plants were all basically just watered. picked up a few deficiencies and it seems one of the mothers got spider mites, first time for me in a loooooooong time. probably gona be a bit of a battle. I still have all the plants though, nothing died, nothing looking like I can't save it. I am home now, but from here on forward my life will be shifting a gear in terms of being preoccupied and not having much time for hobbies. However, this weekend I'll be home most of the time, gona focus on getting things up and running again. Some sad sights to see, but I'll be posting photos either tonight or tomorrow. Have a lekker weekend!!

electricity wise when using HID you paying for a heater that makes some light when half the wattage gets put out in heat, running a HID cost way more than LED so you not getting less light you just paying extra and getting more heat out of thw deal. where as with LED most of what you pay for is being pushed out in form of light. on the rating charts a bunch of the LEDs with the samsung diodes and meanwell drivers outcompete HID of the same wattage. just have to look for the right one. most commercial LEDs are still pretty shit so still very easy to buy the wrong one. if you going for the heat from the HID, it would just be a lot more practical and cost effective in the long run to get a higher quality LED and just grab one of those small fan heaters that have built in timers, just for the winter. I got one and it's almost overkill in my small space. I had to buy an additional timer, because the lowest setting -15min off 15min on- on the heater was too much. had to put it on 15min on every hour. just a suggestion.

Welcome @maRAUjuana First, DON'T PUT PH UP AND DOWN IN ORGANIC SITUATIONS.... you could, but that makes it no longer organic and a drop of it literally wipes out half your microbes and bacteria. those chemicals are stroooooong that's why a drop can make such a big difference. Rather use organic substances to either raise or drop ph in an organic grow. organic ph up = bicarbonate of soda. organic ph down = 100% lemon juice. On the topic of the ph pen itself.... I would rather suggest getting a ph or a ppm pen respectively. As with all electronics in life if it's a "one thing that can do it all" situation it tends to be lesser quality. I mean you can guage this off just the price, buy cheap you shoot yourself in the foot. Buy the right thing you'll only need to pay once. This is why you wont find a company like blue labs with a "one pen that can do it all". They have many different tools that can do one specific job very well. with both the ph or the ppm you obviously never want inaccurate readings. so quality is key here..... even with quality you'll hear with the very very best quality ph probes they need to be calibrated regularly, because their accuracy swing with use. the cheaper quality you go the quicker your accuracy will go out the window. I have heard of countless growers buying cheap ph/ppm probes just to toss them after a grow or two, because they realise how inaccurate they are and if you have inaccurate readings you'll cause more problems than anything. it's also impractical to have to calibrate a pen with every use just to make sure it's still accurate. I got the bluelabs ph pen and the ppm pen, I use them, because they have helped me a lot more than any human has, although in organic situations every second grower will break their heads over the fact that they believe you shouldn't test your organic soil just look past those people... let them not test their soils.... we'll see who has the last laugh I'm an organic grower and use my ph pen once a grow, sometimes I skip over it and only once every second or third grow depending on what I did with my soil before going to use it.... I use my ppm pen way more often. couple times a grow sometimes with a guarentee runoff ppm test of the soil I cooked before transplanting into final pots. I make AACT from time to time, have to test the ppm before I give it. getting into KNF will have to do a lot more testing on my side. I would suggest BioBizz, Grow, Fish and Bloom as your nutrient line. if you think of reusing the soil in future, I would suggest keeping it alive by regularly adding microbes and microbe food. this will form a symbiosis in your rootzone and help break down any nutritive compounds that are not yet accessible for uptake through the roots, and make it accessible. Microbes - there are many many many inoculant products, you can choose any mycorrhizae product. Food for microbes - there are already some in the organic nutrients you'll be using, plus a good topdress of worm castings about 3 times a grow. the molasses you got there is a super food for your microbes. then look into KNF (korean natural farming) you get all kinds of microbe bombs you can make at home with resources you probably already have... Actively Aerated Compost Teas. Sprouted Seed Teas. Fermented Plant Juice. Lactobacillus Acid Bacteria Serum..... so many

Planning really is key, but then again our hobbies just have to take back seat when life gets busy. been home for a total of 5 hours in the past month. Carried my plants into my greenhouse, all in veg under a 18/6 flood light. I just swing by to water them. tents are down. Hope all is well! Till further notice

I think biological control is your best bet right now. luckily aphids are on the menu for most predetors.

Oh yeah, for sure use them still they can do wonders for younger plants! Just be careful of thinking it was just the enitial burst, though. You see the thing with these bags are that the mycelium is alive and it's busy consuming the substrate, as it's doing that it's actually breathing. if you put it on a timelapse it actually looks like a working lung and everytime it expands it consumes a little more of the substrate. crazy thing is it doesn't just look like a lung.... without the consuming part of it, mycelium, even the fruit body of the mushroom, breathes exactly like humans. Oxygen in Carbon Dioxide out so it's a lung that lives and feeds on its own and grows mushrooms every now and then to reproduce untill the bags are fully colonised they gona fluctuate, few hours of releasing higher levels of CO2 and few hours of releasing less and overall just kinda slow down and reduce CO2 production till it's fully colonised. but yeah, because it's a living thing you kinda have to know how they "act" and use that to your advantage, but you can't really regulate them the way you can regulate a CO2 tank. so it becomes a little harder if you trying to achieve a specific ppm. younger plants, such as you have there, love a good fluctuation of CO2. once the bags are fully colonised cut a few 5 to 10cm holes in the bag, keep it moist by taking it out the tent and giving it a spray of tap water 3 or 4 times a day. see if you can grow a mushroom! Aaah, summer rainfall with cold dry winters, that can be a tough one for indoor growers! Whaaaaaat 13% RH outside? that's dry as fuck How constant is that 13%? Those conditions can be hard to manage, but you definitly made the right move with the humidifiers and dehumidifiers. The quick fix solutions kinda go out the window if you live in an area like that. What lights you running? Do you have natural high RH during lights off? or what's the reason for added RH with lights on, but not when lights go off? Idealy, for cannabis, you want a lower RH during lights on than during lights off. As much as we can we should try replicate how they grow in nature and if you look at the places cannabis favour they have dry summers and wet winters. Hot days and cold nights. During the heat there is very low RH and during the night the RH goes way up. as far as my knowledge allows me, I think high temp + high RH = high probability for PM. amd the low temp + low humidity = stunted/slow growth.

Hey bud, hope you well! Those bags work nice for people who have more airtight grows where the plants deplete the CO2. in a completely sealed grow room you'll need to pump in CO2 from a tank. in a room that has sufficient FAE you won't really need those bags, because with every FAE you get fresh new C02 aswell. those bags are also beneficial to people who live in very very low RH areas. I am in Western Cape, never needed added CO2. Infact, I always need to lower the RH so my circulation and extraction fans are constantly running from the day I plug them in. I just turn the extractors higher and lower depending on outside RH. rainy cold wet days - extractor on high. warm humid days - extractor on low. this is also only for the flower tent as during veg it's beneficial for plants to go through RH fluctuations. I grow bulk mushrooms, I inoculate 100's of these bags, when I first heard about these bags I had to try it out myself. They do pump off quite a bit of CO2, but only for a while, after the first 2 weeks they they release much less.

you got this man you got the right attitude to start with, you're waiting for the right time, planning nicely and getting everything nicely set up here. very good start!

Hey bud, sorry I got a bit distracted and taken away there from our private conversation will be getting to it first thing in the morning. If you want I can include some more information about this as there's a bunch more to it, but yeah the gist is that once your ph is out of range the plants stop taking up certain nutrients. this sounds perfect you gona do any kinda microbial inoculants? probably not completely necessary as there's already a bunch in the worm castings, but you know the more life in the soil the better

I know a guy that used the bio line. Grow + Bloom + Enhancer with Freedom Farms Formula 1. good results. mixing that stuff in with FF premium classic will be way too much nutrients for your plants. if you mix in with pure coco/perlite mix, just make sure it's buffered. I am not sure if these dry amendments will provide sufficient cation exchange sites, you might end up with PH swings as it's not really a living soil in that case. If you going the buffered coco route you'll be doing more of a hydroponic style grow with organic dry amendments, which means you gona have to keep checking PH. either way, you gona have to keep inoculating mycos on a monthly basis to help break down the nutrients for best results. I can remember he mixed the soil for the first phase pots with the recommended amount of just the Grow amendment. when time came to repot into second phase pots, mixed recommended amounts of Grow + Bloom into the new soil going into the bigger pots. topdressed with Enhancer mid flower giving the stuff time to break down to be available towards end of flower. reason he's not using it anymore also linked to price cause he got more or less the same results using biobizz Grow, Fish + Bloom.

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand, nothing? waited a while, but... complete radio silence from our local SJW's...???? wow, funny how people respond differently to different people, hey? almost like they're not true to themselves or something hhhmmmmmmm........ ooooooooohhh whiiite kniiiiight @Nope there's another forum member in need of some of your super amazing hugs and magic would you be so very cool again to grace Totemic with your awesomeness??? how about @The_StonedTrooper where's your mighty love now? oh please, come save us with your super good forces!!! you're soooo mighty your love really made a change there....... you guys are just a human we all are. nothing wrong with that. your "love", which I have not felt in the slightest, will go unnoticed untill you learn to love yourself. some of you in for a rude awakening and I won't even have anything to do with it. at this point it's funnier than it is serious. It's been an exhilarating experience, loads of fun was had, it's been great entertaining you personally, my favourite part was the 20 different analogies thrown my way, none of which had anything to do with the original point and was completely different situations all together scrambling to find anything to oppose me while being "more holy than thou" fuuuuuuck me If the weed is good I smoke ze fook out of some Apartheid Kush, cause I am able to not let my feelings get the best of me or cloud my judgement. sometimes I get offended by words too, but at least I know that's within me and not someone elses problem. I can't choose what people say. No one can. Period. it just takes a second to realise that I can't do SHIT about it, only thing I have control over that I can change is my perspective. The sooner we make peace with that, the sooner we will find peace within. I didn't write the rules