Naughty.Psychonaut

@wingwing how's it going bud! I am loaded with questions, it's good to have a plan before renting the bulldozer. It's good to kinda just "wingwing-it" (see what I did there ) and in a lot of cases you don't have a choice but to wing it... ...but like the thing with the light, that's something you need to know, I would suggest LED then working around that later on, easy to pop in a heater and have it on a sonoff switch so it'll only come on when needed. but if you already have HID or something that gives off it's own heat you wouldn't need a heater... in which case I would still suggest to get rid of the HID and make the jump to LED. reason for that is, it's easy to heat up a room when needed, but trust me you gona be pissing tears of frustration during summer to cool the HID down. a lot of HID owners I know can't even grow during summer..... sooo, LED it is. When I saw what you busy with, first thing that popped into my head, cause you not using a tent, but rather building a solid room, I see you got extraction sorted, I don't see anything regarding intake? You gona seal the room? Tents usually have passive intakes near the bottom, but if you have a sealed room you'll be suffocating plants if you suck all the air out without letting fresh air in. with sealed rooms active intake is really the only option. so you'll need another inline fan. and need to make a hole for intake aswell as extract. either that or don't seal the room by making passive intakes like tents have, you just need to figure out how to filter the air that passes through there and also block light from coming in there during your dark cycle. Active intake = a inline fan pushing fresh air in from outside with a hole the size of the fan you'll be using for the ducting to enter. Passive intake = a much bigger hole where there is no extra inline fan, but rather the space will start passively sucking air in as the extractor creates a vacuum. the extraction, for that size, don't go bigger than a 10cm inline fan, and obviously your ducting will have to be the 10cm ducting so it can fit the fan..... anything bigger than the 10cm extractor will be overkill for that space. then my last suggestion would be to grab some photoperiod plants and make it all much much much muuuuch easier on yourself. whatever auto you got the photoperiod of that same strain already exists and you can treat photoperiods like autos and flower them at any size, but you can't treat a autoflower like a photoperiod, and if you try the auto will show you the finger and turn against you. autos are for seasoned growers that have their situations fine tuned with no hickups! that's why I don't grow them, yet.

I realised I never did a final tally on that last batch, been long enough that I can probably give a full report. friend asked for photos of the Frosted Apricot, came here to look at what I posted, but nothing... so here goes. starting with the smallest girl Frosted Apricot - Inhouse Genetics Total Yield = 32g + 6g popcorn. Terpenes are almost non-existent the plant never really got to see the light, I completely neglected her from the start hence the low yield. chopped a whole lot of her away to make space for the other plants. I will say however the weed is kak strong, just not the most enjoyable smoke, that's why I am running her again and paying more attention to her this time. Buds are quite big, but that could just be cause I stripped her so much and tried to only leave the tops. Buds are nice and dense and just as the name suggests, quite frosty! Blueberry Hashplant - Bodhi Seeds Total Yield = 65g + 10g popcorn. Terpenes are getting stinkier by the week. When I first harvested this lady I immediately told myself she'll be dropped from the rotation, purely based on smell. the looks and high was there, just didn't smell or taste right. had a smell, but wasn't tooo fond of it, after spending some time in jars, cured to 62% and stored away, opening the jar after about a week it made the whole room stink. I get a strong fruit smell, not sure what fruit, but a sweet/sour smell. Buds look a little on the airy side, but they're hard as a rock, solid buds, have shown her, but will add the photos to complete the thread. Deluxe Sugarcane - Inhouse Genetics Total Yield = 222g + 16g popcorn. Terpenes are phenomenal. Just an offensive smell of slightly burnt sugar. couldn't say if that's just my mind and the name playing tricks on me, but the best way to describe it, my sister loves to bake and some recipes require melting down sugar, the smell I get off the buds are the same smell I get when there's some sugar being heated up on the stove or even the smell you get from blow torching the sugar layer ontop of a creme brulee. Nice strong smoothe smoke, lets you know you smoked some strong weed as soon as you exhale you're high and the taste lingers in your mouth, which I love! Buds are also rock solid, makes a wood on wood contact sound when dropping a nug on the table, being stacked so tightly even the smaller nugs weigh over a gram her nudes.. Summary Plant Count = 5 Total Yield = 350g Average Per Plant = 70g Light = 300w samsung DIY G/W = 1.166 Space = 1m x 1m x 2m

Nah have not dealt with them at all, just remember the LC needs to be called spores so they get by the legal stuff, but if it's spore swab or print it's more often times than not the legit shit.

Spores are legit when you wana spawn straight to substrate like with PFtek, but in the case of going for monotubs and bins you can clean up LC on agar too, no need to get spores for that. So the same syringe you get for the PF tek, you take that and drop one drop on a plate of agar. will have different colonies pop up, you wait for the strongest one and transfer to new agar dish. repeat this process till you have even growth that indicates something close to monoculture where there's little competition to thrive, they're your strongest and most prolific. take that agar, put it on bulk grains, use the bulk grains to spawn to bulk substrate and there you go. monotubs for daaaaaaayyys. you can also take the grain master culture and put it onto more grains, doubling, trippling even quadrupling your culture. also when you have a clean agar plate, it's easy to make 10 good agar plates from that one ans say you end up with another 5 master cultures you can go ahead and transfer 10 of each of those and you'll have between 40 and 50 plates of master culture. from there you just go crazy and dump psilocybe mycelium all over the place and wait for the magic to follow you

yeah do that and see how it goes, I am not completely sure how it will effect the second flush or even if that's the problem, but you should soak the cake beteween flushes. go for 36hrs and put something ontop of so it's submerged

Nah not mutation, just environmental. Mushrooms are extremely sensetive, they'll quickly show you what's up with your environment. Too much fresh oxygen and too little humidity = short stems with big caps Too much humidity with high levels of co2 with too little fresh air = loooong stems with tiny caps. The thing you mentioned about the perlite staying moist, that is 100% and it shouldn't deter you from misting. you should still mist. What I see there, the cake drying out till it turns brown on the surface, the muhrooms forming like there's not enough humidity it's all clear indication that there's too much fresh air, it's a too dry in there. needs humidity. this could also be low moisture content on the inside of the cake. you said you soaked it for 24hrs after you birthed it, right? well you also incubated for waaaaaayy longer than 2 weeks, which is the normal incubation period. cakes that are colonised within 2 weeks are still quite moist inside and has some weight to it, but then is still soaked for 24hrs. what I am suggesting is, yes I know you soaked the cake, but maybe it was already much drier than a cake that was only incubating for 2 weeks. you see? and maybe needed longer soaking? the perlite can be soaked, you just can't float cakes on water or they'll fall over, so you put perlite so there is a surface and sooooaaaak it, it must be wet wet wet, and as it slooooowly evaporates upwards it'll help trigger pinning aswell as add humidity inside the tub and will form condensation that obviously comes with high levels of co2 and needs to be fanned out more and more. and don't forget to roll your cakes in vermiculite!!! will help A LOT!

are you in WC? will let you know when I got extra clones

Hey bud the blueish bruising I see there indicates the presence of psilocybin and or psilocin. Those are some magic mushroom pins you got there brother yeah the cold can slow things down drastically even bring things to a complete halt especialy with mushrooms! but I also think this could be just the fact that the culture wasn't cleaned. happens to me a lot when I test cultures, I end up with only one or two shroomies then I make tissue culture from that one or two mushrooms I get, clean the culture till I have nice fast and even growth, then I put it to substrate and get full flushes you say you mist only when you don't see droplets on the side? why is this? this might seem conflicting with what I said before about you don't want your tub to dry out too fast... well you also don't want it to stay wet inside there for longer than the period it takes in between fanning and misting. you need to mist each time you gona fan, but you should fan more when you go to fan and mist. don't mist more than you fan.... other way around, fan a lot more than you mist... this is also why fresh air is so important, no air should get stagnant. remember bigger droplets take longer to evaporate, so mist with something that makes the finest mist with the smallest droplets you can possibly find. and literally only mist like 2/3 sprays and let the droplets fall where they may. you only want a teeeeeetsy bit of moisture on the surface. and you wana replace that moisture as often as possible, by continuously evaporating the old moisture off, without letting the cake dry out... walking a tight rope here helps a lot if the cake is hydrated and never dried up. idealy, you would like to use fog which is not the same as mist. the air particles between mist is much less than with fog, fog has more fresh air in it thus doesn't carry as much water and also evaporates much quicker. best in the bizz is those ultrasonic foggers / humidifiers from clicks. you can also use the pond fogger from the hydro store. If I can draw a small little "flow diagram" it will make it much easier to understand, but what triggers pinning is moisture evaporating off the surface of the mycelium.... Open SFC, fan all the old air out for about 1 min, then mist lightly so it doesn't take too long to evaporate, then fan again before you close to induce evaporation... should be dry by the next time you come to do the same. your cake should never be dry but also never wet. the dunk & roll after birth makes all this muuuuuuuuch easier

ahaaa makes a lot more sense can you get a driver for that light locally? I think growopz sell a drivers seperate. I know heatsinks and potentiometer is easy to source.

I've seen guys try to flower under white CFLs I guess quality also becomes a factor, or no? you can veg in a flower setup, but you shouldn't flower in a veg setup and conveniently the flower setup will need to be bigger and also cost more, so skip what's needed for veg and only focus on flower. how about everything from the first post paired with the 125w LM281b for 9 dollars light? 60 x 60 x 140 Tent = R950 125w Light = 9Dollar = R150 (probably pluss courier & import fees?) Clip Fan = R380 Extractor = R495 Total = R1975 That doesn't seem right, what am I missing?

Nice, yeah I get a sour chemical smell off mine, also very little sativa in her growth charactaristics, but I heard she has a long flower period. will see how she does here. still a little uncertain about autos on this side. will look into them again once I've done 2 or 3 grows back to back with no hickups. still learning for now!

Aha, I see you just don't skip over the part where I mentioned you can treat a photoperiod just like an auto. so you don't HAVE to get autos just cause you want less weed, smaller plant and less grow time. you can achieve this with photoperiods too. infact it will be way easier too. however you can not treat a auto like a photoperiod. photoperiods wont show you the finger when you colour outside the lines a little. where as with autos are more likely to give a person headaches cause of the whole "don't sneeze near them" thing. not true guage of how good of a grower you are, many times you'll come across people telling you how autos put them off growing cause of all the headache. not trying to bash your ways, just trying to make it easier for you brother don't know how I missed that! Carbon filter will remove some stuff, but it doesn't do a lot in terms of lowering EC. it will reduce stuff like chloramine, chloride and fluoride.. more a form of chemical reduction to make the water a little more "organic". for argument sake, if you take a given EC/PPM and run it through a carbon filter the readout should be less, but not much less. and on the other side of the knife, the amount of chemicals in the tap water is most likely less than 0.1, but that's enough chemicals to harm microbes. Nail on the head, Sir 🛠 You reduce EC by flushing the medium with low EC water. To increase EC you feed. but not just "feed" you need to know what to give, when to give and how much to give. this is where it becomes interesting the plants talk to those who listen

@SkunkPharm how was the Chernobyl? I am getting a very interesting smell off her... she's still far from finished though, but wana hear what's the take? I have not grown any GTH and as far as I know, Durban Poison is a parent to the Zweet Inzanity. Last time I came across something nice referred to as Durban Poison or something closer to the original thing was a bud I smoked easily more than 5 years ago. still not convinced it was close to real Durban Poison though, cause it definitly did not live up to the hype. nothing to write home about. it was just "good weed" Hopefully the Zweet Inzanity I got now will be something nicer, then again I am a blank canvas having nothing to compare it to

realising now you are going to be growing autos, I am not really sure how to go from here I've never grown autos cause I don't trust my skill level to make something nice out of them. this got me! one thing I have to mention before going forward is that you should pop the seed straight in the finishing pot. don't pop and transplant. also don't go from small pot to big pot. one big pot and done. I would say don't go bigger than 20L, also not much smaller as plants won't be able to express themself fully if they don't get to stretch out properly. rather a little more space than too little, rootbound before flower will also cause a headache and stress. I feel autos are great for the guys who have loads and loads of weed already and don't mind only harvesting "half-plants" just for new flavour. the guys that know their setups are 100% fine tuned for absolutely no hickups, because even just a slight sign of stress takes you from potential 100g a plant to a maximum yield of +/-50g. in which case I would rather just go with a photoperiod, because you can clone them and manipulate them and if you stress them out there's still time to forgive and all that fancy jazz PLUS you can treat them like autos if you wana..... throw a photoperiod under 12/12 at any time and it will flower, so essentially by just having photoperiods - you have the autos aswell. but it doesn't work the other way around. @Darclinc I'll let you know when I am making clones again you in Western Cape?

Well there are different ways to do this, I usually know when I repot, the plant that gets potted needs water at that time, so when I repot I'll have to saturate my medium to ensure no dry pockets. this will also ensure a few drops of runoff. the key is to not dunk a bunch of water all at once that way it just forms a gutter and runs straight out the bottom, but rather slowly water it to make sure all the soil gets saturated and take the first 10ml of runoff and test it. should give quite a clear indication of what's going on in the soil... you obviously need to know the EC of the water you put in, so test that first. needs to be below 1 EC for seedling plants. alternatively, I've seen people fill up the pots they wana plant in, but before repotting, just water them till you get first runoff and test the EC before planting.

Ladies moving along smoothe, stinking up the whole place. I removed all over lapping fan leaves aswell as a bunch of lower branches seeing as we getting a whole week of high RH, don't wana risk anything. these girls been treated all throughout their veg cycles, I hardly ever have to treat flowering plants, mostly because I am scared to spray anything on a flowering plant so I make sure I don't skip any treatments during veg. Talk of the town is that the Potassium Bicarbonate is safe to spray during flower, what's the consensus here? French Macaron Blueberry Hashplant Super Cheese Chernobyl Frosted Apricot

Couple days later, looks like they got their roots in the new soil. and we're off have done first Neem treatment last week Wednesday, Copper Soap treatment yeaterday and topdressed with DE this morning. next treatment will be Potassium Bicarbonate, we got a couple days of high RH about to hit. get ready.

I usually opt for solid plastic pots outdoors, otherwise they dry out too fast outdoors, but you'll be fine since it's winter for now. Just keep an eye on that when summer time rolls around with regard to the pooling, this will only really be an issue in the rain, so keep them handy, otherwise keep with their base in a tray, because when you feed or water cause the plants are dry, then you don't want the runoff to run away, but rather to soak up the nutrients and bit of water you gave it. like I said, you really only need to raise the pots when it rains. just give Proms Little Tent thread a looksee, he went into detail about how his new raised pots are causing him problems. this can happen outdoors too, so literally only when it rains should you raise the pots. IMHO, the whole EC thing is easier to understand and navigate than PH. not sure why so many people overcomplicate it. once a new grower steps up there's a bit of a ego block where it took the experienced guys some time to understand something so now they don't wana tell the next person how easy it really is, people get a thrill watching others struggle and not help them and take little petty jabs with their "get on my level" notion, without really trying to really help a person. EC, you know stands for Electrical Conductivity. We learned in school that water is conductive... the more dissolved solids (TDS = total dissolved solids) the higher your EC will be. the higher Parts Per Million (PPM) the higher the EC.... this directly equates to your nutrient count. Too high EC/PPM/TDS = too much nutes / hot soil Too low EC/PPM/TDS = too little nutes / dead soil Perfect EC range = differs between Organic & Hydro, although the big picture stays the same - small plant want small EC, big plant want big EC seedlings -> 0.1 - 1.5 EC medium size -> 1.6 - 5.0 EC flowering plant -> 5.1 - 7.5 EC once you see your first amber trichom, inside a bud, not on sugar leaves, then you stop feed to save some money and just give water as the plant has already stopped taking up nutes anyway. don't flush the nutes out like people say, the end of cycle flush just refers to moving to clean water, because the plant doesn't go from taking potentially 7.5EC to nothing at all, it slowly eats less and less, but still wants food, just less of it and what's left in the soil will be more than enough for two weeks. Sounds good! Just don't give them cold fridge water root zone prefers to be at a constant temp between 25 and 30°C. giving a plant cold water will slow down root development and could stunt over all growth quite a bit. in nature the cold slows down eeeeeverything

Oh yeeeah that's what I like to see!!! Hope you see hundereds of little pins in the next few days!

Most places advertise as spores, when it's actually liquid culture. It's not legal to sell the culture of any magic mushroom, so they call it spores for souvenir / research and development purposes to get by with microspcopy laws, like with cannabis seeds long before it was legal. but you don't get spores in the syringes. unless you really reeeeeeaaally lucky. spores generally cost significantly more. just look at the spore sprints. that's why the syringes are so cheap in comparison to them, because they actually contain liquid culture. quite the big difference in the two. I do all my grain work in jars, actually much easier than the bags. I get the bags for my gourmet mushrooms, but often have one tear open or just kinda split open on a seem. remember they have to go through the pressure cooker and with it already being thick polypropelene it kinda tends to form it's own seems and tear or open along those lines. they work nice for a while, but you also can't reuse them. I just moved back to jars, waaaayyy easier. get a tennis ball, when you fill the jars with the grain, don't fill it to the top. leave some room so the grains can move around when you shake it, hit it against the tennis ball just so it comes off the sides of the jar and it should break apart very very easily. I trust the jars way more than those bags. they also become expensive over time. I would say this flips the seesaws into the opposite side of the spectrum with too little air flow. remember this is a golden key, although mushrooms grow in high humidity, fresh air and fresh oxygen is even more important than the high humidity. when there's too much co2 the mushrooms can't breathe. it's the same as sticking your head in a closed box with high humidity, cause mushrooms breathe the same as humans. they want constant supply of fresh oxygen. just with added humidity. I would say stick to what you where going to do here, I think closing some holes will work perfect! maybe close the whole middle row? Goodluck brother!

Last thing I need to mention, if everything is 100% in check there is still a possibilty of getting no fruits. if it's not a strong master culture it's easy to get it to colonise a substrate, but fruiting is a whole different thing. this is where agar becomes important. once you can clean up cultures it opens a whole world of possibilities!

waoh hahah don't go back to that place for information maybe I shouldn't be so hard, but when I was doing cakes the vermiculite was the game changer for me. Also it's not a said and done thing. vermiculite will help in situations where the cake dries out too quick. and from what I can see this is your situation aswell. if your setup allows the cake not to dry out too quick then the vermiculite will make less of an impact cause there's already enough relative humidity. in my case with the sub, my "cake" is much bigger and I also soak her before fruitng, but it takes a week or two for this big cake to dry out and it doesn't breathe from all sides. as with cakes they are all much smaller and tend to dry out much quicker cause they open on all sides and the SFC is more suited for Amercians and Cannadians where most of the R&D information comes from, but down here in SA we're relatively drier than a lot of other countries in the world so we need to have fruiting chambers that retain moisture a little better. unless you wana mist more friequently.

when using mycos, you just add a teetsy bit, like half a teaspoon. you can water it in with the first watering you do, mix the half a teaspoon with the water and stir nicely. preferebly dechlorinated water for this as the chlorine can hinder the living organisms. or the easiest way I have founf is filling the new pot as you would when transplanting and just add the half teaspoon on the hole you left in the new pot for the small plant to go in. then just lightly mix it with the soil around the hole. as soon as the roots move into the new soil it will form a relationship with the mycos and they will live happily ever after. I also mix some into my "kooking" soil. When I finish a cycle I dump all the soil in a big 100L pot, break down clumps and get rid of big root balls, then reamend with elemental blend and mycos and it stands like that till I am ready to do my next batch 3 months later. I will flip the soil in the pot once or twice, sometimes not at all.

I am using the biocult at the moment, have done some light testing on clones when I repot them with / without the powder. saw quite a bit of difference in the roots. it works!

small plants are the easiest to overwater in the rain we all learn this the hard way. It's best if you can move them out of the rain into a dry area specialy when they in flower and it's raining for a long time. more because of PM on the plant itself than the rain being too much water in the pot. even a vegging bush if it's real dense you should be more worried about PM if it's too humid for too long. usually plants perk up nicely after the rain and you see all the talk about what magic rain water can be when used with a good living soil. as long as you getting a craft soil with good drainage and the pots you use allow for water to run away freely, you'll be fine. In case you have your pots sitting in trays or something and it pools up it can become a problem, but easily fixed by raising the pots and / or removing the trays. the nutrients, it has to rain quite a lot to flush a only a small bit of nutes out your pot, though it's not impossible. it's a little subjective though, depending on the EC of the soil before the rain. if it's already low or you got a big plant in a small pot that requires a lot of nutes, this all puts you at higher risk of ending up with a few yellow leaves after the rain. if you got good EC you should be fine. but then I have also found some of my pots stay dry outdoors sometimes if it only rains for a day, cause the amount of water is not enough to get through the bush and the amount of water that does make it to the pot is only surface moisture that dries up especially with the 4 seasons in one day we are so blessed with here in the Western Cape except like I said with the small plants, they drown easily if the pot is too big and too wet. I haven't used that a specific PH/EC pen so I have no idea how they are, but we will see once you get it I would say test your well point and all water round the house, find the best stuff for you