Naughty.Psychonaut

I agree, but OP is messing with HID and not LED, so the point I wanted to get across is that there are always better options to go with if you're only shooting for "being able to veg", why not spend less money and make it optimal? Move over to LED and care less about light stress. What I meant with my statement of putting a clone - young sensitive plant that stresses very easily - under 5000K LED at 40cm and comparing it to 3500K CFL at 20cm, like I am refering to here ..... ... is that the CFL will be a problem, because its not always about Watt/Kelvin/Lumins it's also about how you hang the thing to make the most out of the micromols/second that the light produces, and usually a CFL is known to not be strong enough to grow a plant, but it can easily stress your plants also if you use it wrong or the wrong kinda one. might be optimal at another time in the plants life, but saying it's OK to go with only one spectrum for the plants whole life is fine, but then you are gona have moments when the plant goes through a little bit of stress. I think about it like in nature, the sun doesn't stay the same all season through. if OP insists on keeping the HIDs I would say it's in his best interest to get some MH bulbs for veg, wont hurt, will it? LED is much more forgiving for the most part anyway, another win for the LEDs but it can also be used incorrectly!

lol yeah nah the only interrupted light cycle that'll stress a plant is if it gets flashes of light or stray rays during their dark times. if your tent or grow room doesn't have pin holes or light leaks or plugs or appliances with tiny lights on them that are on inside the tent during dark time, you'll be fiiiiine been growing with loadshedding a couple years now, still havent even thought about putting my fans on UPS, luckily I am in the cape winelands so don't have to struggle with high RH at all really. can see it being a problem for the coastal oaks or the inland oaks during winter or any rainy seasons. I moved out of Hermanus maybe 2 years ago now, when I was there I alsmost had to get a dehumidifier, and they're expensive, luckily I moved away there also, I have such small setups it's easy to run through everything and make changes or correct anything that went wrong. another thing that can save your ass with the WPM is having a rigorous IPM regime and sticking to it religiously. have seen so many people throwing up their hands saying growing weed is the hardest thing in the world cz their plant keeps getting spider mites or WPM, I ask did you do IPM? then they look at me like I am crazy for even suggesting it. to those guys I just laugh and don't give them clones anymore. sure thing, shoot them anytime! I am far from a master though but thanks I am flattered

I maintain my stance, 31°C will not stress them unless they under watered. what's clear cut though is that HPS is not meant to veg clones. and like you gathered by now, light does matter and more so "what kind of light" and "what distance" test it out yourself. get a clone put it under 5000K 50w LED at 40cm see how she does, then put a clone under a 3000K 50w CFL at 20cm, problem will look similar to what you have here. wrong kind of light. might be a bit confusing, but a light can be too intense and not strong enough to grow a plant at the same time. could also be watering problem as you running on sprinkler system? easy to have either over or under water problems with young clones especially in big pots too. do you lift the pots before watering to make sure they need warer? also they don't wilt before watering, that would be considered waiting a bit too long. could also just be cz your in Orgasoilux, I've toasted a plant in Orgasoilux with clean water, so I know they make their soil hot. no questions. this shouldn't be a problem though and will self rectify by just keep watering with clean water and no nutes. clones in fresh soil, even not so hot soil still only needs water for a while. organic growers have long been throwing around the term "it's organic it can't harm your plants" and nothing has ever been further from the truth. in some cases organics can fuck your plant worse than synthetics and it's very very easy to over do it wirh organics, because of the kak people been saying about moering everything, anything and their aunties in the soil if it's organic. infact, when it comes to organic, less is more. golden rule brother. I am gona repeat that for those in the back that can't hear, WITH ORGANICS LESS IS MORE! it's a fine art, it's not all about light, but if you have the watering conditions in check and you have the nutrients in check it's back to square one, the kind of light.

I would say, advertise all your HIDs for sale asap, the more you use them the harder they'll sell. same time get a order ready for some LEDs, like prom mentioned he got some qbs off alibaba for good price, you could get something muuuuuuuuch better suited for your space, you could get a very very very cheap deal on LED components off digikey then source some local aluminium extrusions and build your own LED like a lot of us, we'll help you step by step through it all, then as soon as you have someone interested in the HIDs place the order for the LEDs, tell the HID guy they just need to wait till you got your LEDs to replace them, the day you get your LEDs you let the HID guy know his stuff is ready for collection. it's very simple really then you don't have to worry about aircons and paying through your ass when the electricity bill comes around. a reduction in monthly running cost is where it's at man, you don't wana harvest couple kilos, but then you pay the same price to Eskont that you would've paid to some street character for a bulk sale. also don't have to replace bulbs or ballasts and there's just generally much less stress with LED. so it's a no brainer for sure less heat, less maintenance and PT, less money spent on maintenance, one thing it has more of though, is light. which again is another one for the win. so like a win win win situation.

Aah cool, I am glad you got everything sorted! keep us updated with the results! you don't need to worry about that, the only thing that can stress your plant is too much light during flower. which eskom will never do. If you're in veg cycle and the power goes off for 6hrs a day, use those 6hrs as your dark period and just let the lights run the rest of the 18hrs of the day the electricity is on. usually the worst it gets is 4 or 5 hours of loadshedding a day. we once had 6 hrs a day for about a month, but never again. as long as your veg plants can have 18hrs of light they fine, you could even get away with as little as 16hrs during veg. the 18hrs of light a plant needs to veg doesn't have to be all consecutive. same with flower during flower you only need 12hrs of light, giving you a window of 12hrs to make sure the dark periods fall during those times. much easier than with veg. what you do have to consider when talking about loadshedding is your fans. air sirculation. RH.......... the dreaded WPM the first problem you'll run into with no electricity will be some kinda fungi or insect. especially when you're in flower, buds carry a lot of moisture. During veg you want a bit of a higher RH reading somewhere between 50 and 65% is good. During flower you want a bit of a lower RH, because of the buds. a Tent or flower space tends to fill up more during flower aswell, so if you have a power outage it takes only a few minutes for the RH to skyrocket, even more so on a hot day and worst of all during rainy days and in winter!!! if you do end up with UPS system, run your fans and air sirculation off it rather than your lights.

starting to shape up, getting stinkier by the day Frosted Apricot, just starting out Blueberry Hashplant will be first to finish, couldn't get a good shot, she's tucked away good, some buds flopping over already The Star of the show, Deluxe Sugarcane taking over the tent with complete disregard to its surroundings, growing straight through the light

update I have been in the process of getting a new light for this tent, just haven't done it yet. Saw the great deal @Totemic offered, so I couldn't resist! Thanks again man, was a pleasure to meet you! added the 120w qb to help the blurple out a little here's a photo with both lights on, the 288 samsung qb almost overpowers the 300w blurp to anyone interested, the blurple is still up for sale together with some free seeds and free pots here is a few shots with just the 288 qb individual shots Blueberry Hashplant - she was stretching way too much so I made a bunch of cuttings Super Cheese - took a few cuttings of her aswell, just in case she's a keeper. French Macaron - added a photo of a friends outdoor plant, the one I got this cutting from Chernobyl Frosted Apricot - leaves praying like there's no tomorrow!

I like what I am hearing and seeing so far huge project to take on for a new grower! more power to you man Sounds like you have a nice setup there, enough space to grow a shit ton of weed. that's for sure! Setup also seems like it has everything it needs. Just out of curiosity, how big is the extractor fan for that big room? I see you using HPS blubs to veg the clones. Is there a reason for this or was MH bulbs just not an option? MH bulbs gives off a much cooler white light that's more desired by the plant during veg. just a from my side, however vegging with the HPS is far from the worst thing, hell I've seen people veg with 3000k CFL bulbs and get away with it just cause it's the only option they have for the time being. no problem with it, but the plants will obviously grow much faster and happier if you give them exactly what they want when they want it. Touching on the question you asked, the light may be a contributing factor to the leaf curl, yes. What you have there is a form of "leaf canoe". The upward curl of the serrated edges of the leaf. There are other forms of leaf curl, all indicating different things. Most common cases for leaf canoe, in this order is: 1.Heat stress 2.Light intensity stress 3.Overwater stress 4.Overfeed stress. Let's look at them all individually. 1. The temperatures you're giving us seems A-OK. So scratch that one. 2. Light intensity? Could be, because your HPS is more for flowering. the difference between a veg light and flower light is during veg the light needs to be much softer, plants prefer the "cool white" spectrum during this time. during flower your plant wants "warm yellow" light and a lot of it. you'll see indoor growers dim their lights during veg and during flower it's full blast. flower lights are generally more intense and powerfull than veg lights. 3. Do you let the soil dry between waterings? How big is the pot and how big is the plant? Can the plant suck up all the moisture out of the soil before the next watering? If not you're over watering. 4. Do you have a PPM/EC probe? Can show you a test you could do to check the amount of nutrients in the soil. Orgasoilux is known to be a little hot (too much nutrients), because they jam pack that bag with enough nutrients to help you through till mid flower sometimes, but that could mean the soil is a little too hot for the younglings. You're still not burning tips so you're still safe, but this means no nutrients for a while. Just clean water till they start asking for nutes. Hope this helps!

Welcome! The forum is a great place for the local growers to gather, collect and share knowledge, so you came to the right place is there something specific you would like some guidance and adivce about right now? sheeeeeeeeesh, 25 elvis plants?? that's quite a big grow! I grew an Elvis pheno once, looking to grow it again if the pheno is the same as the one I had! here's the pheno I had how big is the setup you're doing this in and how big do you let the plants get?

Only a pleasure! How are they looking today? First question - before transplanting, what did the roots look like? more than one or two roots and at least longer than 5cm? sometimes transplanting a clone too early when it doesn't have strong roots yet, they can go south. Through what you're explaining to me it just sounds like they're underwatered, though. You say you put them in FF, was this the green bag? Did you water them in thoroughly or you just spraying them? - if so they should be underwatered. With any transplant you wana wet the new medium till at least 50% field capacity for the roots to move into the new soil. if you're transplanting bigger plants it's advised to saturate the soil completely. in both cases as with small cuttings and with big plants, once they're transplanted and watered in, you leave them till the soil is dry again. this will ensure you not drowning / suffocating the roots. You did a good thing by getting them out the cold as cold soil slows down root activity quite a bit. Just note that when the sun is out you should put them in the sun. that's where they wana be. If they're watered properly the sun will not hurt them. of they're under watered the sun will toast them. and in the unlikely case that your soil was too wet for too long you could be facing some kinda root rot, but you never mentioned anything about saturating the soil or the soil being overly wet. So I don't consider that. Consensus: Soil+Pot light and dry = water with room temperature water and take them out in the sun. Soil+Pot heavy and wet = take them out in the sun so the soil can dry.

Now THAT'S what I'm talking about!!! Mycelium slows down drastically in the colder months with some cases of growth stunting completely. to speed up colonisation you could place the tub somewhere warmer. stick it at the back of a towel closet, wrap it up nice and leave it there in the dark warm corner for a while, see how she does. Make sure the top can still breathe so don't put stuff on top of it. Ideal temperature for colonising is 25-28°C. The more constant the temp the faster it will colonise, the more the temp fluctuates the longer it'll take.

Only a pleasure brother! Do you know if the breeder of the seed was Sensi Seeds, the original breeder of the Black Domina strain, or does President Seeds create their own seeds? or are they just a bank? I have seen a few black domina plants, but I have to be completely honest with you, that phenotype you have there looks very much like a random bag seed. Nothing you did so it's not your fault. I am trying to point out that Black Domina is a 90-100% Indica. that plant is displaying mostly Sativa growth charactaristics. a few other things also point out that it might not be Black Domina, but it could just be that President Seeds tried to create their own Black Domina seeds by crossing it with something "nice" and ended up making only F1 generation which means almost every seed popped is gona look different, and you just got the seed that carries less Black Domina genetics and more of whatever it was crossed with. Hopefully she smells and tastes nice

Hi bud I use my phone most of the time, here's what I do. First, you select "add files" below the write-up box. it will allow you to select photos from your phone and you just select the ones you want and upload them. Second - all the photos will be in a seperate box below the write-up box. Each photo will have a tiny little cross in the corner to remove the photo from the post and on the opposite corner there will be a word "insert" to click on. when you click/tap that it will insert the photo at the point of the write up you left the cursor. That's basically it. You would write "Step 1: ........." then you leave the cursor behind the last word then go to the photo you want next to step 1 and just tap "insert" You could also tap enter to get the cursor below the last word so the photo will be below the text. You can also do this at random, upload photos at any time, write the whole post, then jump around with the cursor by placing it anywhere in the type-out and just go down to the photos and insert any photo at any random place in the post. hope this helps bud, excited to see what you wana share with us!!

Hi @TikyIckee welcome to the forum. Can you share some photos of what you busy with so we can see? Easier to guage what's wrong when taking a look at things. First note - DE works best when dry. I usually sprinkle when top soil is dry. So would water then wait 24hrs then put a layer of DE on the dry topsoil, you could even dust the plant with it. With the next watering the DE will go down into the soil, but trust me having it sit there dry for a day or two and dusting the plant with the stuff will do much more for you than watering it straight in. Second Note - this ties into the first note, most soil dwelling pests you don't want will lay eggs in the soil and only the eggs that are in the top 5cm of soil will hatch. that top 5cm is the breeding grounds for stuff like fungus gnats and other pests. so you only really need to cap that top layer by putting a nice healthy layer of dry DE ontop of that. eggs will hatch, larvae will move upwards to pop out the soil and on their way they encounter thick dry layer of DE. this is how they die. living soft bodies have to crawl/wriggle over some dry DE to kill it. if you just water it in it acts more as a nutrient than a pesticide. My opinion would be that DE - when used the right way - wouldn't cause plants any stress. it does however provide the soil with small amounts of silica and calcium which are both nutrients cannabis plants use, maybe the reason why some of the cuts jumped up and looking happy with the added DE. however, you say other cuttings looking less happy? this could be a completely different reason. First, maybe you used a little too much DE, but more likely there is something else going on. This will be easier to say if we can see photos? perhaps some more info aswell? Organic? Synthetic? Ph? What soil/medium you using? How big are the cuttings? What size pot? What nutrients? How often do you water? Do you let the soil dry before watering? those things...

Flower tent doing it's thing Frosted Apricot Blueberry Hashplant Deluxe Sugarcane - cut a whole bunch of tops, there is still one or two that are a bit too tall, but I couldn't get it over my heart to cut all the tops. two of them gona have buds sitting above the light. light can't go any higher.

Small defoliation yesterday, took a few clones

@PsyCLown what's good bud! was wondering what's the reason for giving them away?

@Goodvibes what's up man, hope you are well! woah, black domina you say, is it by Sensi seeds? where did you get the seed from or was it a clone? by the looks of the fading yellow leaves that plant looks like it's not eating anymore, but I see she's in a pot, so you must have stopped feeding her? is this right? or did the plant start fading out like that by herself? if she faded by herself you know she's done for. I see quite a lot of white pistils still, which tells me the buds are still growing. the buds also look like they can pack on quite a bit more weight, but it wont do that if you stopped feeding her. also don't know if it's genetics. I generally only stop feeding and checking trichomes once around 70 to 80% of all pistils have turned brown or shrivel up. You have white pistils at the very top of your buds, those are generally the first ones to turn brown when the buds stop developing, which tells me you stopped feeding her too early or not feeding her enough throughout. right now would be a good time for you to grab a good jewlers loupe or macro lense for your phone to start checking trichomes. if you don't wana do that and you're not serious or into growing really and just want this one plant to turn out OK and make you high then I guess there's gona be very little difference for you in waiting for the perfect time to harvest and harvesting right now. it's only really when selling it, growing for the purpose of satisfying masses, or for the connoisseur home grower that these subtle changes make big differences. hope this helps at all

hell yeah!! 'n boer maak 'n plan, maar 'n dagga boer het klaar een or something like that !!

if the bug barier doesn't catch enough dust particles, a pair of pantyhose will

Very nice!! some IPM treatments you can still do during the first 2 to 3 weeks after flip, depending on how harsh the treatment is. it's really only once the pistils come in that you have to worry to spray something that'll stunt the flower production. I've seen something as mild as a full dose of Neem completely toast all my pistils, buds stopped forming for about a month, when the plant finally flowered she made a bunch of poo weed. though, you could still spray Neem till you see pistils which will only be around week 3. if it's something like a contact killer like Pyrol rather stay clear from day one of flip. on the other hand, biological stuff like AQSF you can spray at any time. it's just distilled water with living organisms in it. you could also introduce predatory mites at any time. I see a lot of people working with predatory mites these days.

flower room update

just a little update here French Macaron Chernobyl Frosted Apricot Super Cheese Blueberry Hashplant

I like this! Exciting topic! Growing weed is no competition and we shouldn't create stress for eachother, however you all know I am guilty of this hahahah but for more important reasons and in the spirit of not wanting to waste money or space or time it's always been a good thing to look at every interaction as constructive rather than destructive and take notion in the fact that the very very very best grower in the world is literally trying to figure new and improved methods to better his growing all the time. that's what makes them the best, knowing there's always room for improvement and doing something about it! I am showing a old friend of mine how to grow and he keeps showing and telling me about people that he knows who grow weed and how they did it and it always comes down to "who spent more money and who used more resources in comparison to who's grow performed the best in their respetive situations." one guy filled the floor with pots and bought a kak load of expensive soil, didn't even have a full canopy. other guy mixed his own soil, had a couple 30L pots spaced out nicely in a smaller space, plants nicely trained and spread out over the foot print, couldn't see the floor through the canopy, yielded more weed in a smaller space with fewer resources in a shorter amount of time. now the question I ask him, which of those two examples you wana follow? My main focus was always max yield in the space I have. Good genetics comes after at least knowing how to grow first! I am using a 1m2 for flower space so I couldn't really make the veg space bigger than that, would be impractical, the reason I got the 1m2 is because when I first got it, that's all I has space for. Would have loved to flower 8 big plants at a time from day one, but didn't have the time, naturally I got the best I could work with at the time and pushed it. I think a setup that can accommodate a perpetual cycle would be ideal, or a "conveyor belt system". 3 different spaces = Mother+Clone space, Veg space and Flower space. With flower space being the main focus. If you can have 8 mature/flowering plants and have them as big as you can it would be ideal to get them as big as you can in the space that you have. IMHO, a plant shouldn't be flowering in a pot smaller than 20L and not without a veg time for at the very least as long as the flowering period is or idealy twice as long. a plant needs to become a certain size before it can really fully express itself, but really just my opinion. no real merit to that statement, I just wouldn't do it. I feel I have never grown a small plant that has delivered the same results as the same plant grown out to full size, the bud never fully developes. The minimum space to cover with 8 x 20L flowering plants, I would say, is a 1.2m2 flowering space. then the plants get squeezed in and they stay relatively small. again my opinion. Let's say you have a 3m2 flower space or bigger, the rule stays the same - Only 8 flowering plants. All that needs to be done to fill the space is increase pot size. Keep the amount of pots at 8, but make them 60/80/100L pots. this will easily fill the space, if it's indoor even easier cause you can veg them how ever long you want. If you have a smaller space than 1.2m2 I would flower less than 8 plants, because like you said, you could fill that 1.2m2 space with 4 plants in 20L pots. Just veg them a little longer. bigger pots will help too You could do every thing in one room from clone to veg to flower, if you have the time. so really all the rest here is about saving time. Veg space - the only way I see this is, however closer to the same size the veg and flower space is, the quicker your perpetual cycle will be, because this allows you to use all of the 8 to 12 weeks of flower to veg your veg space wall to wall, giving you an already filled flower room once the previous batch comes down. the bigger the difference in room sizes the longer the gap in over lap, and you might have to switch your flower room back to 18/6 sometimes for extra veg time to fill the bigger room. this is wasteful in my opinion. Idealy one would like to keep both rooms on their set times, 18/6 and 12/12, and keep them there. but still make sure not to move the plants over till the space is filled. Mother and clone space - this can take up quite some space, however you can do this outside and do not need the best lights and all that. you could also make clones and leave them in your veg room somewhere between pots or in the corner under the 18/6 light cycle. once space is used properly and minimal time is wasted I can starts to focus on adding another flower space and later another veg space and staggering the harvesting every 4-6 weeks, first one room then 4-6 weeks later the other another 4-6 weeks later the first one again. remembering that 8 plants is the limit and I can just increase pot size and extend veg time to fill bigger space. excited to see what others say?