Naughty.Psychonaut

Flower tent doing it's thing

Frosted Apricot 

Blueberry Hashplant

Deluxe Sugarcane - cut a whole bunch of tops, there is still one or two that are a bit too tall, but I couldn't get it over my heart to cut all the tops. two of them gona have buds sitting above the light. light can't go any higher. 

Small defoliation yesterday, took a few clones

@Goodvibes what's up man, hope you are well! 

woah, black domina you say, is it by Sensi seeds? where did you get the seed from or was it a clone?

by the looks of the fading yellow leaves that plant looks like it's not eating anymore, but I see she's in a pot, so you must have stopped feeding her? is this right? or did the plant start fading out like that by herself?

if she faded by herself you know she's done for. 

I see quite a lot of white pistils still, which tells me the buds are still growing. the buds also look like they can pack on quite a bit more weight, but it wont do that if you stopped feeding her. also don't know if it's genetics. 

I generally only stop feeding and checking trichomes once around 70 to 80% of all pistils have turned brown or shrivel up. 

You have white pistils at the very top of your buds, those are generally the first ones to turn brown when the buds stop developing, which tells me you stopped feeding her too early or not feeding her enough throughout. 

right now would be a good time for you to grab a good jewlers loupe or macro lense for your phone to start checking trichomes. 

if you don't wana do that and you're not serious or into growing really and just want this one plant to turn out OK and make you high then I guess there's gona be very little difference for you in waiting for the perfect time to harvest and harvesting right now. 

it's only really when selling it, growing for the purpose of satisfying masses, or for the connoisseur home grower that these subtle changes make big differences. 

hope this helps at all 

hell yeah!! 'n boer maak 'n plan, maar 'n dagga boer het klaar een or something like that !!

if the bug barier doesn't catch enough dust particles, a pair of pantyhose will

Very nice!!  

some IPM treatments you can still do during the first 2 to 3 weeks after flip, depending on how harsh the treatment is. it's really only once the pistils come in that you have to worry to spray something that'll stunt the flower production. 

I've seen something as mild as a full dose of Neem completely toast all my pistils, buds stopped forming for about a month, when the plant finally flowered she made a bunch of poo weed. 

though, you could still spray Neem till you see pistils which will only be around week 3. if it's something like a contact killer like Pyrol rather stay clear from day one of flip. 

on the other hand, biological stuff like AQSF you can spray at any time. it's just distilled water with living organisms in it. you could also introduce predatory mites at any time. I see a lot of people working with predatory mites these days. 

flower room update 

just a little update here 

French Macaron

Chernobyl

Frosted Apricot

Super Cheese 

Blueberry Hashplant

I like this! Exciting topic! Growing weed is no competition and we shouldn't create stress for eachother, however you all know I am guilty of this hahahah but for more important reasons and in the spirit of not wanting to waste money or space or time it's always been a good thing to look at every interaction as constructive rather than destructive and take notion in the fact that the very very very best grower in the world is literally trying to figure new and improved methods to better his growing all the time. that's what makes them the best, knowing there's always room for improvement and doing something about it!

I am showing a old friend of mine how to grow and he keeps showing and telling me about people that he knows who grow weed and how they did it and it always comes down to "who spent more money and who used more resources in comparison to who's grow performed the best in their respetive situations."  one guy filled the floor with pots and bought a kak load of expensive soil, didn't even have a full canopy. other guy mixed his own soil, had a couple 30L pots spaced out nicely in a smaller space, plants nicely trained and spread out over the foot print, couldn't see the floor through the canopy, yielded more weed in a smaller space with fewer resources in a shorter amount of time.

now the question I ask him, which of those two examples you wana follow?

My main focus was always max yield in the space I have. Good genetics comes after at least knowing how to grow first! I am using a 1m2 for flower space so I couldn't really make the veg space bigger than that, would be impractical, the reason I got the 1m2 is because when I first got it, that's all I has space for. Would have loved to flower 8 big plants at a time from day one, but didn't have the time, naturally I got the best I could work with at the time and pushed it.

I think a setup that can accommodate a perpetual cycle would be ideal, or a "conveyor belt system".
3 different spaces = Mother+Clone space, Veg space and Flower space.

With flower space being the main focus. If you can have 8 mature/flowering plants and have them as big as you can it would be ideal to get them as big as you can in the space that you have.

IMHO, a plant shouldn't be flowering in a pot smaller than 20L and not without a veg time for at the very least as long as the flowering period is or idealy twice as long. a plant needs to become a certain size before it can really fully express itself, but really just my opinion. no real merit to that statement, I just wouldn't do it. I feel I have never grown a small plant that has delivered the same results as the same plant grown out to full size, the bud never fully developes.

The minimum space to cover with 8 x 20L flowering plants, I would say, is a 1.2m2 flowering space. then the plants get squeezed in and they stay relatively small. again my opinion.

Let's say you have a 3m2 flower space or bigger, the rule stays the same - Only 8 flowering plants. All that needs to be done to fill the space is increase pot size. Keep the amount of pots at 8, but make them 60/80/100L pots. this will easily fill the space, if it's indoor even easier cause you can veg them how ever long you want.

If you have a smaller space than 1.2m2 I would flower less than 8 plants, because like you said, you could fill that 1.2m2 space with 4 plants in 20L pots. Just veg them a little longer. bigger pots will help too

You could do every thing in one room from clone to veg to flower, if you have the time. so really all the rest here is about saving time.

Veg space - the only way I see this is, however closer to the same size the veg and flower space is, the quicker your perpetual cycle will be, because this allows you to use all of the 8 to 12 weeks of flower to veg your veg space wall to wall, giving you an already filled flower room once the previous batch comes down. the bigger the difference in room sizes the longer the gap in over lap, and you might have to switch your flower room back to 18/6 sometimes for extra veg time to fill the bigger room. this is wasteful in my opinion.

Idealy one would like to keep both rooms on their set times, 18/6 and 12/12, and keep them there. but still make sure not to move the plants over till the space is filled.

Mother and clone space - this can take up quite some space, however you can do this outside and do not need the best lights and all that. you could also make clones and leave them in your veg room somewhere between pots or in the corner under the 18/6 light cycle.

once space is used properly and minimal time is wasted I can starts to focus on adding another flower space and later another veg space and staggering the harvesting every 4-6 weeks, first one room then 4-6 weeks later the other another 4-6 weeks later the first one again. remembering that 8 plants is the limit and I can just increase pot size and extend veg time to fill bigger space.

excited to see what others say?

@Righteoussower what's good brother, hope you're doing well  

well fuk, first of all, no stress here man there are people who grow for years and still "pre-trim" their plants before harvest. not sure if they do as thorough of a job as you did there! I've seen people do it to save time, to prep for a very high humidity countering PM. they do it for all kinds of reasons, so at least it's not like what you did is the worst thing ever. 

you removed a lot of biomass, the leaves are like the kitchen of the plant where all the ingredients come together and they get redistributed throughout the plant, so now that you've removed a lot of biomass, but the plant is still uptaking nutes, you need to check for signs of nutrient burn on the buds. if you see any signs it's better to chop right away. 

about harvest time, I see you checking the trichomes there, that's the right thing you should be focused on right now. a very big portion of cannabis consumers are drawn to it because of its anxiety relieving properties. if you have a problem with anxiety and you do a way early harvest your weed will be smoking you with all the anxiety it will induce. 

clear trichomes - too early, causes anxiety and racy feelings.

milky trichomes - juuust where you want them

amber trichomes - too late, couch lock lazy sunday, sleep half the day. 

I don't see any milky trichomes, I only see clear and a few amber. however it looks like you took a photo of the outside or the top of a bud. just be careful for this, as trichomes on the sugar leaves and outside of the bud mature way faste than the trichomes inside the bud. 

when I check my trichomes I remove a small bud (not a popcorn larfy bud, a proper one, but a smaller one) then I carefully disect it, I don't just cut it up and destroy all the resin heads, so just take the smaller peices off the stem with scissors, then take a look at the inside trichomes. they all mature almost at the same rate and a little slower than the outside trichomes. when you see around 30 to 50% milky inside, CHOP! the rest of them will turn milky during the first week of dry. 

aim to have you medium dry on the day of chop, don't flush the plant at all right now. just normal amounts of clean water. 3 to 5 days before chop no more water.

I like mine more on the clear/milky side rather than the milky/amber side. I kinda like feeling anxious, good motivater hahah  

On 3/22/2022 at 6:31 PM, Righteoussower said:

I’m glad that backing off of nutrients was a valid move. I was using Flora Coco Bloom (NPK 1-2-3) every third day and a very light dosage of Bud Juice Molasses. Because I noticed that she doesn’t mind a lot of nutrients. Although, her leaves were already curling down slowly, prior to the nutrients halt. I will follow your advice on cutting down to 50% of current nutrients dosage or maybe even less. I feel like yellowing leaves will give me some sense of accomplishment. Lol… Do you think I should still use Cal mag at this point on? And when you say flush with clean water from one week to harvest do you mean pure PH’d water? Or PH wouldn’t matter at that point? And how much water?
Thanks and have a great week…

when moving over to clean water at the end of the grow cycle you are still using the same amount of water you would normally give the plant. you're not aiming to flush the plant here, you're just not adding nutrients to the water anymore. 

I would say you're done with full dose feeds, just keep it at 50% till a week or two before harvest then you switch to clean water. don't flush her, she'll naturally fade by herself. 

On 3/22/2022 at 6:31 PM, Righteoussower said:

I’m glad that backing off of nutrients was a valid move. I was using Flora Coco Bloom (NPK 1-2-3) every third day and a very light dosage of Bud Juice Molasses. Because I noticed that she doesn’t mind a lot of nutrients. Although, her leaves were already curling down slowly, prior to the nutrients halt. I will follow your advice on cutting down to 50% of current nutrients dosage or maybe even less. I feel like yellowing leaves will give me some sense of accomplishment. Lol… Do you think I should still use Cal mag at this point on? And when you say flush with clean water from one week to harvest do you mean pure PH’d water? Or PH wouldn’t matter at that point? And how much water?
Thanks and have a great week…

aaaaah ok, I see I see.... 

about the ph, if you growing in coco with synthetic nutes you should be checking your ph almost everytime you feed. your method of growing is more like hydroponic than organic, so you need to keep a close eye on the ph going in and coming out of the medium and possibly the ph of the growing medium itself at times.

the molasses would work best if you growing in living soil, but for now in coco it would be better if you adding microbes that break down the sugar making all kinds of trace elements available to the roots, if theres little to no microbes I am sure a whole lot less of the molasses gets into the roots.

if you using a ph pen in a solution that's oily or that'll leave a film on the surface such as something with molasses in you gona have to clean the probe regularly

looking good man, I see the dark green you talking about, you made the right move by backing off with nutes when you did.  

what bloom nutes you giving and what dose?

continuing with those same nutes and dose would've caused you leaf-tip burn and downward clawing fan leaves. the tips burning is the first sign of root stress because of excessive N, but is also easily fixed by just backing off with nutes for a bit.

I wouldn't say that plant is ready for harvest, at least 3 more weeks and I would only advise to move over to clean water a week before harvest. untill then the plant still needs nutrients. so if a couple days go by and your plant starts looking healthy green again give a 50% dose of the same bloom nutes untill a week before harvest. 

as a cannabis plant progresses towards the end of its bloom cycle it starts using less and less nutrients, so always a good rule of thumb to follow nutrient schedules, but towards the end start slowly reducing the amount instead of ending everything off with the very highest or strongest dose like most feeding schedules would advise. their advise to waste is a marketing tactic to get you back in the shop to buy more nutes, sooner. 

I do this to save nutrients, because I don't see the need in feeding when the plant can't do anything with the nutes anyway, however you will hear 1000 different opinions on this topic. 

got my tickets  

still not sure if I am free at all that weekend trying my best to clear up the Saturday, wana be ready just in case, might have to meet people in town on Friday so might just swing by the Expo for a couple hours. otherwise if everything works out, I see you all there  

I am amazed at how much growth you still getting with all the stress they getting from the maintenance. I train my plants like that they get stunted and don't do anything for a couple days! 

really nicely done, MrE! 

19 hours ago, ORGANinc. said:

That's pretty far along to not have much bud development? are you sure there are no light leaks or anything to that manner. I've never had plants stretch  until week 6 unless revegging occurring, and that's happening to my outside plants right now courtesy of our new super efficient LED street lamps 

Yeah, I got worried around week 3, they still looked like plants in full veg mode so I checked the tent for light leaks and I double checked the cycle if there's nothing strange going on, found nothing. The BHP and FA had pistils around week 3, but the DS only made pistils mid week 4. 

I got my wendy house semi-insulated, mostly so it doesn't heat up like wendies usually do, but this also makes the wendy black out inside and then the Budbox tent is new and the material is more canvas-like than threaded material, I aldready made sure, but there are no pin holes, no zip holes, no duct holes, no plug lights. nothing of that matter.

I am not sure if this could be it, but what I did different this time was reammend the soil right on the day of flip. at the time the plants where hungry so when I reammended the soil they reacted real quick, couple days later they exploded with veg growth and basically they are still exploding with veg growth, that's really the only thing I could gather. 

13 hours ago, Smelly Joe said:

That blueberry hashplant looks like its gonna go ape shit with trichome production later on.... 

Deluxe Sugarcane and Frosted Apricots sounds amazing. Have you grown them before??? 

That stretch is making things a bit tight

Hell yeah, I am very excited about the BHP   

I have not grown the FA before. Had one small DS plant flower with my previous batch, the mother these clones came from. she's a keeper - my photos don't do her justice 

Goodmorning all!! 

Flower tent update

it's week 6 of flower and the Deluxe Sugarcane is still stretching  

my light takes up about 10cm in width, it's mounted all the way at the top, 1cm gap between my light and extraction fan. the DS haven't formed buds yet, but it already touching the light! tops got chopped after photos where taken, rather earlier than later.

Deluxe Sugarcane 

Frosted Apricots

Blueberry Hashplant putting the frost on real early - dialing back the N on the next few runs for this girl. 

What's good, Team  

just another weekly update. 

still just clean water all the way, plants grew quite a bit since last post, I took the time to clean them up and spread them open to get that real bushy bush. 

French Macaron

Blueberry Hashplant

Frosted Apricots

Super Cheese

Chernobyl

was gona say, strange for a GG plant to not stink then again they're from seeds so you bound to get different phenos. some more terpy and some less terpy. 

@AfrikaansePotkop

when it comes to lights there are actually more options to choose from than with tents. 

although the measurement and advertisement of Watts is not the best indication of "grow light performance" especially when talking about LEDs, you can kinda use it to guide you.

whatever tent you get, just remember for every square foot (30.5cm) you want about 30watts of light. if you going with a 1mx1m tent you get roughly 3ftx3ft. 

X = 30Watts/square foot × (3ftx3ft)

= 30W/SQF x 9ft

= 270Watts - you'll need atleast this much for your 1mx1m tent. you could go up to 300Watts. 

the reason why I am saying this: 

https://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-build-designs-samsung-bridgelux/

Rather than buying two shitty lights of around 100w, which would still be insufficient, rather buy something legit that you won't have to upgrade after your first grow and struggle to sell because it's of little to no value, saving you the headache, the school fees and a whole bunch of your time.  

Welkom, Potkop! Dis leke hie by ons! 

wys ons jou ding! (die ak47 plant)

check out this one 

https://growopz.com/products/qb-130v2-3000k 

130w for cheaper also with samsung diodes and it's bar style so they don't heat up at all. I got a bar one myself. 

you can request the HLG driver as it comes with XLG, you might just have to email them and ask if it fits a 60x60 tent

note the 3000k will be yellow for flower specific and the 3333k slightly more blue for veg but you could also flower under that. 

3 minutes ago, Rsa said:

So the 120w from light it up has the heat sink. So this should be better than the Samsung 

 

the 120w from light it up with the heat sink is the one with the samsung diodes. that's the one you want  

Just now, Rsa said:

At this stage 1-2 plants will be adequate. 

oh yeah no then scratch what was said, 1 small 60x60 tent is plenty!