Naughty.Psychonaut

@Righteoussower what's good brother, hope you're doing well well fuk, first of all, no stress here man there are people who grow for years and still "pre-trim" their plants before harvest. not sure if they do as thorough of a job as you did there! I've seen people do it to save time, to prep for a very high humidity countering PM. they do it for all kinds of reasons, so at least it's not like what you did is the worst thing ever. you removed a lot of biomass, the leaves are like the kitchen of the plant where all the ingredients come together and they get redistributed throughout the plant, so now that you've removed a lot of biomass, but the plant is still uptaking nutes, you need to check for signs of nutrient burn on the buds. if you see any signs it's better to chop right away. about harvest time, I see you checking the trichomes there, that's the right thing you should be focused on right now. a very big portion of cannabis consumers are drawn to it because of its anxiety relieving properties. if you have a problem with anxiety and you do a way early harvest your weed will be smoking you with all the anxiety it will induce. clear trichomes - too early, causes anxiety and racy feelings. milky trichomes - juuust where you want them amber trichomes - too late, couch lock lazy sunday, sleep half the day. I don't see any milky trichomes, I only see clear and a few amber. however it looks like you took a photo of the outside or the top of a bud. just be careful for this, as trichomes on the sugar leaves and outside of the bud mature way faste than the trichomes inside the bud. when I check my trichomes I remove a small bud (not a popcorn larfy bud, a proper one, but a smaller one) then I carefully disect it, I don't just cut it up and destroy all the resin heads, so just take the smaller peices off the stem with scissors, then take a look at the inside trichomes. they all mature almost at the same rate and a little slower than the outside trichomes. when you see around 30 to 50% milky inside, CHOP! the rest of them will turn milky during the first week of dry. aim to have you medium dry on the day of chop, don't flush the plant at all right now. just normal amounts of clean water. 3 to 5 days before chop no more water. I like mine more on the clear/milky side rather than the milky/amber side. I kinda like feeling anxious, good motivater hahah

when moving over to clean water at the end of the grow cycle you are still using the same amount of water you would normally give the plant. you're not aiming to flush the plant here, you're just not adding nutrients to the water anymore. I would say you're done with full dose feeds, just keep it at 50% till a week or two before harvest then you switch to clean water. don't flush her, she'll naturally fade by herself.

aaaaah ok, I see I see.... about the ph, if you growing in coco with synthetic nutes you should be checking your ph almost everytime you feed. your method of growing is more like hydroponic than organic, so you need to keep a close eye on the ph going in and coming out of the medium and possibly the ph of the growing medium itself at times. the molasses would work best if you growing in living soil, but for now in coco it would be better if you adding microbes that break down the sugar making all kinds of trace elements available to the roots, if theres little to no microbes I am sure a whole lot less of the molasses gets into the roots. if you using a ph pen in a solution that's oily or that'll leave a film on the surface such as something with molasses in you gona have to clean the probe regularly

looking good man, I see the dark green you talking about, you made the right move by backing off with nutes when you did. what bloom nutes you giving and what dose? continuing with those same nutes and dose would've caused you leaf-tip burn and downward clawing fan leaves. the tips burning is the first sign of root stress because of excessive N, but is also easily fixed by just backing off with nutes for a bit. I wouldn't say that plant is ready for harvest, at least 3 more weeks and I would only advise to move over to clean water a week before harvest. untill then the plant still needs nutrients. so if a couple days go by and your plant starts looking healthy green again give a 50% dose of the same bloom nutes untill a week before harvest. as a cannabis plant progresses towards the end of its bloom cycle it starts using less and less nutrients, so always a good rule of thumb to follow nutrient schedules, but towards the end start slowly reducing the amount instead of ending everything off with the very highest or strongest dose like most feeding schedules would advise. their advise to waste is a marketing tactic to get you back in the shop to buy more nutes, sooner. I do this to save nutrients, because I don't see the need in feeding when the plant can't do anything with the nutes anyway, however you will hear 1000 different opinions on this topic.

got my tickets still not sure if I am free at all that weekend trying my best to clear up the Saturday, wana be ready just in case, might have to meet people in town on Friday so might just swing by the Expo for a couple hours. otherwise if everything works out, I see you all there

I am amazed at how much growth you still getting with all the stress they getting from the maintenance. I train my plants like that they get stunted and don't do anything for a couple days! really nicely done, MrE!

Yeah, I got worried around week 3, they still looked like plants in full veg mode so I checked the tent for light leaks and I double checked the cycle if there's nothing strange going on, found nothing. The BHP and FA had pistils around week 3, but the DS only made pistils mid week 4. I got my wendy house semi-insulated, mostly so it doesn't heat up like wendies usually do, but this also makes the wendy black out inside and then the Budbox tent is new and the material is more canvas-like than threaded material, I aldready made sure, but there are no pin holes, no zip holes, no duct holes, no plug lights. nothing of that matter. I am not sure if this could be it, but what I did different this time was reammend the soil right on the day of flip. at the time the plants where hungry so when I reammended the soil they reacted real quick, couple days later they exploded with veg growth and basically they are still exploding with veg growth, that's really the only thing I could gather. Hell yeah, I am very excited about the BHP I have not grown the FA before. Had one small DS plant flower with my previous batch, the mother these clones came from. she's a keeper - my photos don't do her justice

Goodmorning all!! Flower tent update it's week 6 of flower and the Deluxe Sugarcane is still stretching my light takes up about 10cm in width, it's mounted all the way at the top, 1cm gap between my light and extraction fan. the DS haven't formed buds yet, but it already touching the light! tops got chopped after photos where taken, rather earlier than later. Deluxe Sugarcane Frosted Apricots Blueberry Hashplant putting the frost on real early - dialing back the N on the next few runs for this girl.

What's good, Team just another weekly update. still just clean water all the way, plants grew quite a bit since last post, I took the time to clean them up and spread them open to get that real bushy bush. French Macaron Blueberry Hashplant Frosted Apricots Super Cheese Chernobyl

was gona say, strange for a GG plant to not stink then again they're from seeds so you bound to get different phenos. some more terpy and some less terpy.

@AfrikaansePotkop when it comes to lights there are actually more options to choose from than with tents. although the measurement and advertisement of Watts is not the best indication of "grow light performance" especially when talking about LEDs, you can kinda use it to guide you. whatever tent you get, just remember for every square foot (30.5cm) you want about 30watts of light. if you going with a 1mx1m tent you get roughly 3ftx3ft. X = 30Watts/square foot × (3ftx3ft) = 30W/SQF x 9ft = 270Watts - you'll need atleast this much for your 1mx1m tent. you could go up to 300Watts. the reason why I am saying this: https://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-build-designs-samsung-bridgelux/ Rather than buying two shitty lights of around 100w, which would still be insufficient, rather buy something legit that you won't have to upgrade after your first grow and struggle to sell because it's of little to no value, saving you the headache, the school fees and a whole bunch of your time.

Welkom, Potkop! Dis leke hie by ons! wys ons jou ding! (die ak47 plant)

check out this one https://growopz.com/products/qb-130v2-3000k 130w for cheaper also with samsung diodes and it's bar style so they don't heat up at all. I got a bar one myself. you can request the HLG driver as it comes with XLG, you might just have to email them and ask if it fits a 60x60 tent note the 3000k will be yellow for flower specific and the 3333k slightly more blue for veg but you could also flower under that.

the 120w from light it up with the heat sink is the one with the samsung diodes. that's the one you want

oh yeah no then scratch what was said, 1 small 60x60 tent is plenty!

I would also recommend going bigger but if you got the space and cash what would be best is setting up for perpetual cycle. veg space and flower space of equal size. you could go with a bigger flower space, but then you have to veg in your flower space aswell to fill the space. to minimize time you want to fill and empty the space as quick as possible, best way to do that is to have them same size. flower the full one, take that 3 months to veg the other one side to side, once full just flip and carry on flowering while you fill up the other space again.

like the ladies say, bigger is always better, hey? think he mentioned that space is a issue, not sure in what way it's an issue. if he needs more space to fit a tent or if the tents are too small. @Rsa if you need more space you should save up for bigger tent and light, but if you can't fit a big tent in your space then you good with the small one. I was gona go in the deep with stories on my first grow setups and how I got where I am now, but I think it's the same for most of us. we all start somewhere

this sounds all too familiar! also learned the hard way that make-shift projects can quickly become more expensive than conventional or commercial solutions. 9 times out of 10 make-shift solutions are also not as efficient either and can become a headache in time. you making the right choice by going with the proper equipment, you won't regret it! I agree with Evan, FF green bag with biobloom is the way to go!! perhaps add BioGrow and Fishmix to the list of things you'll need, however you will need a lot less of these two, but once there's N deficiency it's good to have those on hand and not have to run around wasting time to get the stuff to save your plants. N deficiency is probably the most common deficiency you'll run into if you giving plain water for most of your grow. BioBloom is not the right nutrients to give for N deficiency.

yeah I remember, hope you doing well brother! I was actually checking if you cloned this plant? I can remember you popped a seed, but then I forgot if it was a autoflower or a photoperiod seed? reason I am asking is cause autos can't be cloned. if that's a photoperiod you might wana have a second try at growing her so always good to make extra clones during veg. looks like you got a nice GG pheno bet she's starting to stink up the place? the picture you sent mentions 13weeks flower, that's on the longer side, some Sativa charactaristics which I always appreciate. buds can take 1 to 2 weeks to ripen at the end of a grow and they generally don't put on more size in that time, giving your buds at least another 5 to 6 weeks of fattening up. I think you in for a nice yield!! you got others ready to flower once this one comes down?

hmmm.... let's see. this would be my opinion, If you wana use the light for veg and bloom you could add additional blue and far red diodes, but then it would be easier running them off their own drivers then you can switch between the two, so during veg you only use blue and during flower you only using the far red. I would get the 4000K strips, in that case, to not be veg or bloom specific. if you wana use the plant just for veg don't worry about anything. I was gona suggest additional blue diodes, but rather configure the light with only 5000k and up so it's natural blue/white. if you wana use the light for just flower you go for the 3000k strips and add far red diodes only, no blue.

Was gona say welcome, but I see you been here since way back Welcome back then hahah you made a nice structure with that auto and she's looking frosty! she still got time to go, I would say at least a month. quite a small plant overall but then again autos are known to be smaller.

Niiice that looks great, I don't think it even needs a fan! bummer that it only pulls 27watts! get these strips!!!! https://www.digikey.co.za/en/products/detail/samsung-semiconductor-inc/SI-B8V101560US/7562243 you'll need this driver, https://www.digikey.co.za/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/HLG-320H-24B/7704033 if you planning on grouping them all together in the old school quantum board fashion, you'll need a heatsink and possibly a fan and you have to mount the driver away from the strips to keep the everything as cool as possible. alternatively you could get aluminium T-strip and build a bar style light then you don't need a fan or heatsink, and the T-strip is enough space between the strips and driver so you mount the driver right on the back.

yeah that's looking good for 5 weeks man! did you make clones? wait, is this auto? about the yield, that's always hard to say, because weed will take up same/different amount of space or volume and still weigh different. for example, I recently grew 2 different phenotypes of the same strain, buds came out looking very much alike, density and size, plant structure and size was alike, however there was quite a difference in weight. but let's take a guess anyway I would saaaayyyy....... somewhere between 20 and 80g

not sure about all the other active ingredients in that oil, but yeah 50mg of CBD extract is very very little. also, how does the dose work? when is it 50mg, does the whole thing contain only 50mg? meaning just rubbing it on you'll get like 5 to 10mg depending on how much you use? I think the fact that it's got CBD in it or on the lable is more of a marketing thing. everything with "CBD" on the lable goes for a bit of a price bump over the original product without CBD. I feel it's also more for the biodynamic oriented individuals that's always looking for a "more organic more alternative" solution for everything. if you wana use weed for anything, get full spectrum stuff with all the cannabinoids and terpenes and everything. basically - dank buds - you can make concentrates, but that takes away from the entourage effect. the real medicine is the plant as a whole.

cool cool, if you already got the GG seed and it's a normal photoperiod female, skip the rest of the autos and invest your time and resources in the GG seed. keep the auto seeds, some people might want them. you might need them in future. for breeding or what not, you never know. hopefully that photoperiod serves you well man. I know the frustration when high hopes get knocked down, but just know if all else fails, you're on a forum full of growers who share clones and all that fancy shit. just speak up