Naughty.Psychonaut

31 minutes ago, Khakibos said:

@Naughty.Psychonaut This question is rather random, but If you don't mind me asking what made you decide on the isoboard instead of something like PVC boards or whatever it is actually called ? was it purely due to the thermal insulation that the isoboard offers ? 

edit: aaahhh nevermind I see they both basically have the same properties but the isoboard has better thermal insulation  should've looked it up before I asked .................

Hey bud  

I guess there's a couple reasons, the insulation being at the top of that list, because my previous setup didn't allow me to achieve the desired enviromental conditions and it was quite a headache.

I want a strong structure, because the highest point in that building is higer than 10m so we can always build another room ontop of the ones we are putting up now. and if you look at the back above the 3 doorways there's a thick white beam that forms the edge of a floor, will have a staircase going up soon, but our plan is to extend that floor once the rooms are in so we can build ontop of them and have the stairs in a whole different spot. 

17 minutes ago, Marzcanna said:

I see some fat ones 

classic chodes 

1 hour ago, ORGANinc. said:

Great work brother, congratulations man! Starting a small business from scratch is no joke, but with a little bit of perseverance you can kill it! Also request your pricing champ, my head office will definitely have a look/possibly make use of your stuff as they do wholesale. Unless you already sold out lol. Will message you.

Thanks for the kind words and support man!   it goes a long way! 

When the ball gets rolling I'll be updating here again, watch this space

so quite a bit has happened and changed around here, thinking you're one step ahead of things can sometimes mean something entirely different than what we hope had the SL OG prepped for a 15 to 16hr light cycle before putting her outside beginning November, put her in a spot where she gets the earliest morning sun till the latest afternoon sun, but days at that time was only 13 to 14hrs long. so she started to flower, showing me how one step ahead is not good enough when there are so many variables. 

I don't trust "the seasons" anymore. I will dedicate an area for outdoor grows and mount a LED for future, next years outdoor light cycles bound to be even more flipped. only way when talking light cycles.

I made a few cuts of the SL OG, took the whole plant out and decided to keep the pot empty for a while till I can see others vegging outdoors, had another 60L pot ready for a host so I decided to test one of the Hawaiian Cake giveaway plants, took the stinkiest female and planted her, took about 2 weeks till she went into flower around 14 Nov. 

Waited till 10 Desember, can't wait any longer, planted a Deluxe Sugarcane cut in the 80L pot, saw she's going into flower a few days ago. 

The poor HC got smacked with the recent wind storms, lots of leaf damage, luckily she acted as a wind break for the DS. 

Not sure if this plant wants to continue flowering or making foxtails now

HC -

DS - she's doing great

some of my chillies and peppers in the greenhouse 🌶

Habanero - big leaf

Cherry bomb - perfectly round and turn crimson red like a little cartoon bomb

Cayenne, at the back - must have

Bell pepper

Sweet pepper

Jalapeno  

Then we have some outdoor grown chillies and peppers as I was running out of space inside the greenhouse, I cut back a few plants and planted them straight in the earth in an unoccupied little corner in the garden  

Bell peppers

Cayenne

WHAT'S GOOOOD, BOYS AND GIRLS OF 2022!!!  

fuck the big C word we shall not speak of, we all made it this far in the shit show, so let's make some lemonade, shall we!?

Moving into the new year with a BANGER!!!!!!! things have been looking up, so over the last few months I been busy turning a backyard hobby / hustle into a registered business, getting our commercial licensing done as we speak

I will leave the nitty gritty for the papers, but holy hell starting up a business has probably never been more of a headache!!!! Really trying to tame the bull wanting to get anything done that means help from the government. Took them 2 months to send a health and safety inspector to come spend 30min at our new site.... pathetic.... 

that's right.... our new site!!!!

bigger and better!!! 

we will be installing isoboard rooms with full climate control shortly  

 What do we have here, juat a few dicks flopping all over the place. Last two weeks for this batch hopefully, might have to go into a 3rd week depending on the trichomes, but that's what you get from sativas! DS got chopped, hanging for 4 days now. very small plant. 

Sour Lemon OG

lower bud of the SL

Banana Hammock, I like her summer colours more, if it wasn't for the trellis she'd be flopping on the floor. 

Deluxe Sugarcane - pre chop 5/6 days ago

mind the dog hair

- post chop, yesterday

  Not much to report on, everything running along smoothe! All 3 the DS plants got about half of the plant chopped back, made a few extra clones. I was told she's stretchy, she was alsmost touching the lights! One of the DS plants is in a 20L pot and is considerably smaller than the rest, the others all in 30L. Seems the FA is going to be the smallest plant, so she gets the middle spot. The tent is about ready will be moving over into flower tent in the next 2 weeks, will be using trellis net to make the canopy more even. Just finishing up in there. 

39 minutes ago, DamDave said:

Like when you pick up a pot plant and find an ant nest.
Interesting

Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk
 

yeah, I've had this with all kinds of plants and sometimes it makes me stress, but I have seen plants thriving like this aswell. 

the explination I gave is actually very simple, the physicality of it all is quite complex, my relationship with ants really is a love hate situation  

they're very interesting, but can wreak havoc if they wana and we can never be too careful 

I watched a documentary looooong ago about ants basically doing above ground landscaping by root management under ground. blew my mind, how they knew if they munch this certain root they know that one certain branch of the plant will die and they would prevent their habitats from getting too dense, but still not kill all the plants in the area so they still have protection and all that. sort of like they making bonsai

the knife can really cut both ways here, but I guess you could predict the outcome a little by trying to find out what type of ants those are. 

ants that take plant matter underground usually do this to create mycelial networks for them to feed on, they're mushroom farmers, yet it's not unheard of ants munching on fine roots till the plant dies, the ants attraction to the root zones is the mycelium that is commonly found around plant roots. 

but then again we shouldn't forget that the cannabis growing there is also a plant by defenition and is the exact thing the ants are after to help them grow more mycelium.

some ant colonies like to build their farms under a plant so the plant and its roots provide structure and protection for their homes, they know this and try to not hinder the growth of the plant aswell as the extra aeration and mycelium at the root zone that helps the plant to grow. other ants go farming at the base of the plant and end up putting the plant through so much stress they become weak and start attracting pests, the ants know this and use this tactic so they get a plant to host their food, such as psy mentioned. 

either way, pretty cool to see this go down

you working with autos or photoperiods?

if photoperiods, I would suggest trying out smaller pots for seedlings and move your way up. easy way to make sure you not over watering.

On 1/1/2022 at 2:26 PM, Righteoussower said:

Good afternoon buddy. Thanks for the response. It is well appreciated. I am sorry for not introducing myself. I will do that right after this reply. I am growing in pre-buffered coco coir purchased from biltong & budz. I bought a ph tester but I absolutely don’t know how to use it. So instead of using a wrong reading, I’m just watering with straight tap water which I know could be a big problem. I water every 3 days. The young plants have been given little or no nutes. And in regards to the pot size, I noticed that the ones in smaller pots are growing fairly faster than the OG in the big pot. I have spent reasonable amounts of time and money on these girls. I don’t want to lose them Tye


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Goooodmorning!

cool you good with the pre-buffered coco, step one is a

the ph pen, there really isn't much to it. you put it on and stick it in the water...

stir the water so you have it all nicely mixed, dip the probe, it will give a reading, usually fluctuates for a minute before it settles and whatever it says is what the ph is. I see you have a ph up there, I assume the other bottle is ph down. if you got high ph you give a few drops of the "ph down" and vice versa if it's too low. you keep the probe in the water while you do this and keep stirring the water, check the probe and give a minute after every drop or two, you'll see the ph changing and when it hits the desired numbers you know you're good.

the tap water with coco - eh..... not always a big problem, the bigger problem in that regard is that there are no nutrients in the water. I can tell you, move over to filter or bottle or RO water, but you'll still be lacking nutrients in all of these cases. coco is inert, not having any nutrient value, I am sure you know this going down that road, so your grow will be considered a hydroponic grow. you'll have to continuously stick to a feeding regime all the way from week 2 till a week or two before harvest. I see you got the flora bloom there, where is the rest of it? the bloom you only need at the end of the grow, you gona need a veg nutrient for the beginning and basically all the rest. probably a calmag supplement an perhaps a form of micro nutrients depending on what's in the grow/veg nutrient you getting.

ph needs to be taken with every single feeding, no jokes. you will also benefit from doing slurry/runoff ph tests every now and then to see if your medium ph is in check, cause that can make drastic swings aswell. or you can get a super expensive soil ph probe (don't waste your money on a cheapy) 

golden key here - take ph reading after adding nutrients to water as this will change the ph aswell, take the ph reading after and adjust accordingly

cannabis plants in a hydroponic / soilless growing medium call for a bit lower ph range than in organic situations. you'll have to aim for that 5.5 range when the plant is young and as it gets bigger and starts taking in different nutrients at different times and in different ratios you can slowly and strategically let the ph climb never going higher than 6.5 by the time you harvesting the plant.

did you get a feeding schedule with that flora coco? I'd say you should start giving them something, usually a feeding schedule/chart will tell you what and how and when, but it will start with the veg nute alone at minimal dose. I would even half the recommended doses when the plants are still babies, rather too little than too much but still better than nothing.

lastly, with coco it's really hard to over water when the plants have their roots nicely established, infact I heard from the coco growers it's best to keep the coco moist at all times and never let it dry out even once. however if you got a seedling in a big pot like that it's more important to not saturate the whole pot as cannabis seedlings do not like excess water at all. excess water will stunt seedlings and this is what I think you dealing with.

Bless the New Years brothers and sisters, may it be a prosperous and fruitful one for all of us

ps

Happy New years brother, may it be a prosperous and fruitful year ahead 

On 12/31/2021 at 3:45 PM, Furbrain said:

Only now I'm seeing how the temps/weather can change down in this neck of the woods!. 33° this arvo.......

Am trying the domes as suggested and will monitor carefully. Hope they don't fry......

Will update as and when........

Take care,.........it's a jungle out there!.

I see with your setup it makes it a little hard to move things around at all, this could possibly make things a little more complicated if you don't already know the conditoins are right and may mean you'll have to bring in and incorporate a few different ways of changing environmental conditions.

especially with autos that don't wana be touched at all 

the younger the plant the more they demand those perfect coditions - what you have there will be fine for a month old plant, even if it gets to 33°C you can use a lazer thermometer and check the leaf surface of your plant, should be around 24 to 26°C cause the plant can cool itself down. seedlings can't do that yet. 

I agree with Weskush that the light intensity together with the dome and the high heat might toast your seedlings. so anything that'll decrease light intensity - check what angle the sun comes in at when the temps hit higher than 28°C then hang another layer or two of shade cloth on the side the sun is coming from - this will lower the temp at the sight of the seedling too.

this is not the only way to go about it, just the first thing I can think of, but you'll have to be able to move/remove the additional shade cloth easily enough as to not create a tedious job for yourself. maybe look into making it possible for you to move stuff around a little more, this option will probably be cheaper and more practical.

I feel it's more important to keep moisture around the seedling so do whatever you can to keep the dome on, because you're outside and soil surface dries up quick quick outside and hopefully you not saturating the whole pot? if you giving minimal water just around the seedling, which is what you should do, you should keep the dome on aswell. 

just don't keep the dome on when it gets up to 30°C - when working with seedlings try reduce heat on those days.

Goodmorning young grasshopper, how bout a little intro thread for us? There is a topic option created specifically for that

anyhow, Happy New Year

I would defs say to wait it out rather than doing something drastic so early on, all those plants that are up mean business and they can all deliver a full crop, so yeah hang in there. 

you gona have to give us some more info, though based on the 15 days alone I would say you're doing fine, but then again this might all be flipped on it's head depending on a whole number of things as the plant really is still too young to make any big calls.

here is what I would like to know from you - did you buffer your coco, or is the coco you bought already buffered? what water do you give? Tap? RO? how much and how often? have you given any kind of nutrients? did you pop those seeds straight in those pots? 

from the photos, what I can see is a seedling in a big pot, you've probably heard and seen some stuff on growers using small pots for small plants and there is reasoning behind that. you see the roots of a cannabis plant prefers not standing in stagnant water at all. when growing in a medium I follow the 3 day rule, if my mediun takes longer than 3 days to dry up to the point where the pot feels light when I pick it up then I know my pots are either too big and the plant can't suck up enough water an my environmental conditions don't allow the medium to dry out either, and/or I am giving too much water.

the first thing that jumped into my mind is that you might have stunted growth a little bit by overwatering / too much wet media gor plant to use all the available water

- the material bags as grow pots are meant to aid in this, as plastic pots take longer to dry out, but by over potting and soaking the media you're kinda defeating the purpose of the material bag/pot

before taking my advice and running with it, please answer those questions about the water and media you're using, because based on all that you might be revealing a whole different problem.

when growing in coco you need to watch your ph, very very important, you know what ph you working with?

On 12/29/2021 at 11:05 AM, Pants said:

Any other interesting plants, throw names this way.

BROTHER  

I wouldn't even know where to start, maybe check out this book??

Worldwide the list of medicinal plants goes on and on and on, this book however only looks at indiginous species and speaks of around 3000 species that grow in our African biome with medicinal properties, the book only covers about 400 species of them. so the list is a long one  

they have a section at the back of the book where they already grouped everything according to ailments, pretty cool

I would also recommend if you're in the Western Cape to make some time and go check out Babylonstoren garden in Franschoek, they have a very sacred little space dedicated to world wide medicinal plants. probably the most elaborate medicinal garden I have come across my whole life. no doubt about it. you can even do a garden tour where they take you through the medicinal garden and teach you how to know what to look for and how to use a lot of the plants. there is a Dutch lady there I share my birthday with, we keep in contact through the years and she's literally a witch when it comes to plant medicines, her knowledge on the subject is so vast it's scary sometimes, that's why I say she's a witch if you do the tour and you're lucky she'll be the tour guide and you can ask literally anything and everything!  ...ps there is some Salvia Divinorum growing in that garden too, but it's a very sacred garden and they don't allow guests to take cuttings from there. 

✌

almost forgot the part about the dome.

first I have to ask, you doing all this outdoors in the direct sun or indoors?

the point of the dome is to not let moisture escape from your medium too quickly, so you've got it flipped around there bro beans, you gotta keep the dome on during the day to retain the humidity and not let the medium dry out. during night time out in nature the humidity levels rise as the temeperature cools down and the sun isn't evaporating moisture, so you may take off the dome during night time, but you may aswell leave it on. 

if high temperature is the issue when keeping the dome on during the day I would advise to move the pot into a cooler spot at least untill the plant has come up and formed some roots. 

once there is roots the plant cools itself down, but when you're popping a seed it's absolutely crucial that you keep in the range of 25°C, the more constant that temperature the better. 

if you got that 25°C on a constant, then worry about RH and get that up to around 60 to 80%. - anything lower than 60% will cause the medium to dry out too fast and anything higher than 80% will become favourable to mold and disease- 

hygrometers are epic little devices for propagation, they read °C  and RH. 

Only a pleasure brother✌

First time I see the ever-grow bag, never heard of anyone using it either so I can't really give comment on it. Hope it works for you!

The Orgasoilux on the other hand I have tried once and heard a bunch of mixed things about it. my personal experience, I bought one bag that went straight into a 40L pot and I planted a 2 month old photoperiod over from a 10L pot, a nicely established plant and root mass, wasn't a small plant, yet few days later the plant was burnt to shit. still managed to save her, but not before the damage has been done. I grabbed my EC pen, did a runoff test and the EC was more suited for a fully grown fruit tree than a 2 month old shrub. so I flushed the soil with clean water down to the right EC, took the plants out anyway and put them in fresh FreedomFarms Premium Classic, still harvested around 50g off the plant... kept the flushed Orgasoilux in a big pot outside all winter exposed to the elements, rained through quite a bunch, used it after a few months and it turned out fine. but didn't trust it again after that.

the general customer experience and feedback with Orgasoilux has also been a bit of a hit and miss situation, as far as I can remember, though lately it's been more positive, I don't use them as my personal go to brand.

without second guessing myself, the brand that gives the best bang for your buck would be the brand with the most consistent results that you can rely on and study their product to get to know how to work with it better, without them changing the product up on you or delivering inconsistent results throwing your learning curve off course. You can't and wont go wrong with a bag of Freedom Farms Premium Classic, but see how this experience with those two bags turn out for you, one thing is certain - you're headed in the right direction 

Let us know how things turn out, maybe hit us with a couple photos, sometimes a problem goes unnoted and is easily spotted by external perspectives. 

Hope you have a grooovy New Years too man, stay safe out there

11 hours ago, Pants said:

So I’ll add this to the list for next year


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It's a nice vine shrub to have in your garden, with the very noticable flower and the dense greenery it puts on a nice show wherever it's growing. This plant doesn't bare any peas though so it is more of an ornamental plant. I read there's quite a list of beneficial medicinal properties the plant provides, people steep teas with the flowers and what not, so if you're into that you'll like the plant a lot!  

9 hours ago, Weskush said:

Interesting how the human female genitalia is represented in certain species. The black mussel is a prime example also. Maybe certain species are represented in humans rather than the other way around...

yeah this is true, no jokes vagina-like objects are so commonly found in nature  I guess if you really interested in knowing which came first and who resembled who, you could do some research in the biological field of archeological and geological history to find the oldest species or specimen that had something that similarly resembled a vagina. my best guess is that a fossil of some kind will present that peice of information, maybe it was found in the fauna kingdom first, maybe the flora kingdom or perhaps the oldest kingdom that inhabits our earth to this day - fungi kingdom  

but then... who ever was first, where did they get the idea and what was the concept based on? like every particle of air itself has scientific merit that explains why and how it exists in the form that it does and how this came to be. just like everything else in existance. it's likely that the concept of a vagina was a million other more simple concepts smooshed into one complex concept over looooooong periods of time. 

Hey bud hope you are well!

Rotting cuttings means you're really only dealing with one of two things, if not both. Disease or too much humidity, and the two are mutual to a certain extent so maybe one is causing the other. a Cutting will not rot because it was too dry and whatever pathogen caused the rot also wouldn't take host if there was a lack of moisture. 

You'll do yourself wonders by cleaning everything properly and reducing your humidity. a bunch. and then keeping it like that. 

As soon as you see a sign of rot, remove whatever has the rot on it or it will spread. in theory if your conditions are right no rot should appear at all.

Have you heard of aeroponic cloning? The reason I bring this up is because we take fresh oxygen for granted when it comes to root forming. we tend to think that it's all about humidity when fresh oxygen is basically just as important. 

you most probably breeding diseases with your conditions. 

another noteworthy thing is, where is this humidity dome standing? just for clarity, let's look at two extreme opposite sides of the spectrum, shall we? If you had cuttings standing in a dusty, danky, dark basement compared to cuttings standing in a labratory setup where everything is sterile and well lit and ventilated with enough fresh oxygen, which of these two will have higher probability of rotting? obviously the ones in the basement. now I am not comparing your situation to a dusty dank dark basement, but what I am trying to explain is that sometimes it can be the surrounding environment causing the issue. always good measure to make sure the room you're working in is on the clean side to minimize the prevalence of any possible pathogens. 

✌

lekker lekker

whenever I see a pea/bean flower I am reminded of a blue pea flower. have you seen them?

I was working on a permaculture farm where I kept pointing it out and telling people the flower looked like something very peculiar. we kept laughing about it like we where a bunch of 12 year olds, untill the master botanist pointed out the botanical name and it just made the joke so much funnier. It became a point of interest for guests, so much so we had to put the botanical name on a board next to it and all the middle aged ladies started taking photos with it. 

so, this is the flower, what does it look like to you?

maybe you need a bit of a "dirty mind" to see it, but this will colour your imagination a little further, the botanical name - 

.....aaand a little description if you still don't see it

fok me  

you gona stink up the whole block with that garden!! 

Merry belated Fly Agaric Day, hope everyone had a blessed one

well done brother! got some lekker bushes there, the pink skies photo is beautiful   the wacky seasonal conditions and light cycles we been having is making outdoor growing a whole different experience. I see a lot of people pushing two small outdoor harvests this year as the plants they brought out begining of the outdoor season started flowering almost right away. 

I would put some money on a bet that next year will be the same story and the best way to combat this is outdoor lighting!

Hey bud, 

I would recommend against that, in all honesty, although I am not 100% sure what the science behind it would be -other than autos generally being full of shit and you can never be too safe- my gut is telling me no. 

only for the sake of "doing it for science" and at the same time minimizing human intervention, seeing as that is enough to stunt autos sometimes, you can try combining the two ideas. 

so you would fill your pot, dig a hole big enough for a swollen jiffy to fit in there, pop that thing in and drop the seed in the jiffy and only try to keep the jiffy area wet till you see life. gona have to use a dome in this scenario, the downside here may be that the jiffy is very small in comparison to say a "solo cup" or small 12cm nursery pot, so if you're only trying to keep the jiffy wet you're at higher risk of it drying out, hence the must use of a dome and meaning you're going to have to check up more often and keep it moist more often rather than using a bit more medium that can stay wet/moist for longer.

21 minutes ago, Ill_Evan said:

Rose soil should be between pH 6.0 - 6.5, so it would work but might struggle in the beginning depending on strain as Nitrogen is more easily absorbed at about pH 5.5 - 5.8, but if he is growing outside then rain water will easily lower the pH slightly enough to be perfect for cannabis. 

Edit: @Furbrain should still pH test his soil though. 

I'm trying to get him away from that stuff completely  

@Furbrain use it for your roses, spoil yourself and get something nice like Freedom Farms Premium Classic, can't go wrong brother.

for popping autos in their final pot, here is a tip to avoid over saturation - nothing smaller than 20L pot space, fill the pot 80% with the FF soil, take a cup/small pot, place it in the soil right in the middle and fill the rest of the pot around the cup to create a shape mould of the cup/small pot in the soil, then lift the cup/small pot out and fill that hole with coco peat/sphagnum peat or any kinda inert medium with no nutrients. now make a little 1.5cm deep hole with a tooth pick or small object, drop the auto seed and close it lightly. now most importantly here, ONLY saturate the inert medium and cover with a dome/cut off plastic bottle (something seethrough to retain moisture, but allow light to pass through) if the sight of the inert medium dries you can spray it with a water sprayer just enough to wet the surface and place dome back over. 

because you're only wetting the inert medium you'll decrease chances of over saturation, placing a dome will prevent it from drying out, it being inert medium will decrease chances of any bacteria or mold taking over before the seedling has sprout, once the root is out it will reach into the FF soil and go on as normal. 

if things are a bit unclear, here is what I mean (just grabbed a picture off the internet) - 

your situation will just be a smaller hole, because you're not repotting, but only planting a seed. I would say half the size of the hole the person in the photo above made in comparrison to the rest of the pot. then fill the hole with inert medium.