Naughty.Psychonaut

Goooodmorning! cool you good with the pre-buffered coco, step one is a the ph pen, there really isn't much to it. you put it on and stick it in the water... stir the water so you have it all nicely mixed, dip the probe, it will give a reading, usually fluctuates for a minute before it settles and whatever it says is what the ph is. I see you have a ph up there, I assume the other bottle is ph down. if you got high ph you give a few drops of the "ph down" and vice versa if it's too low. you keep the probe in the water while you do this and keep stirring the water, check the probe and give a minute after every drop or two, you'll see the ph changing and when it hits the desired numbers you know you're good. the tap water with coco - eh..... not always a big problem, the bigger problem in that regard is that there are no nutrients in the water. I can tell you, move over to filter or bottle or RO water, but you'll still be lacking nutrients in all of these cases. coco is inert, not having any nutrient value, I am sure you know this going down that road, so your grow will be considered a hydroponic grow. you'll have to continuously stick to a feeding regime all the way from week 2 till a week or two before harvest. I see you got the flora bloom there, where is the rest of it? the bloom you only need at the end of the grow, you gona need a veg nutrient for the beginning and basically all the rest. probably a calmag supplement an perhaps a form of micro nutrients depending on what's in the grow/veg nutrient you getting. ph needs to be taken with every single feeding, no jokes. you will also benefit from doing slurry/runoff ph tests every now and then to see if your medium ph is in check, cause that can make drastic swings aswell. or you can get a super expensive soil ph probe (don't waste your money on a cheapy) golden key here - take ph reading after adding nutrients to water as this will change the ph aswell, take the ph reading after and adjust accordingly cannabis plants in a hydroponic / soilless growing medium call for a bit lower ph range than in organic situations. you'll have to aim for that 5.5 range when the plant is young and as it gets bigger and starts taking in different nutrients at different times and in different ratios you can slowly and strategically let the ph climb never going higher than 6.5 by the time you harvesting the plant. did you get a feeding schedule with that flora coco? I'd say you should start giving them something, usually a feeding schedule/chart will tell you what and how and when, but it will start with the veg nute alone at minimal dose. I would even half the recommended doses when the plants are still babies, rather too little than too much but still better than nothing. lastly, with coco it's really hard to over water when the plants have their roots nicely established, infact I heard from the coco growers it's best to keep the coco moist at all times and never let it dry out even once. however if you got a seedling in a big pot like that it's more important to not saturate the whole pot as cannabis seedlings do not like excess water at all. excess water will stunt seedlings and this is what I think you dealing with.

Bless the New Years brothers and sisters, may it be a prosperous and fruitful one for all of us

ps Happy New years brother, may it be a prosperous and fruitful year ahead

I see with your setup it makes it a little hard to move things around at all, this could possibly make things a little more complicated if you don't already know the conditoins are right and may mean you'll have to bring in and incorporate a few different ways of changing environmental conditions. especially with autos that don't wana be touched at all the younger the plant the more they demand those perfect coditions - what you have there will be fine for a month old plant, even if it gets to 33°C you can use a lazer thermometer and check the leaf surface of your plant, should be around 24 to 26°C cause the plant can cool itself down. seedlings can't do that yet. I agree with Weskush that the light intensity together with the dome and the high heat might toast your seedlings. so anything that'll decrease light intensity - check what angle the sun comes in at when the temps hit higher than 28°C then hang another layer or two of shade cloth on the side the sun is coming from - this will lower the temp at the sight of the seedling too. this is not the only way to go about it, just the first thing I can think of, but you'll have to be able to move/remove the additional shade cloth easily enough as to not create a tedious job for yourself. maybe look into making it possible for you to move stuff around a little more, this option will probably be cheaper and more practical. I feel it's more important to keep moisture around the seedling so do whatever you can to keep the dome on, because you're outside and soil surface dries up quick quick outside and hopefully you not saturating the whole pot? if you giving minimal water just around the seedling, which is what you should do, you should keep the dome on aswell. just don't keep the dome on when it gets up to 30°C - when working with seedlings try reduce heat on those days.

Goodmorning young grasshopper, how bout a little intro thread for us? There is a topic option created specifically for that anyhow, Happy New Year I would defs say to wait it out rather than doing something drastic so early on, all those plants that are up mean business and they can all deliver a full crop, so yeah hang in there. you gona have to give us some more info, though based on the 15 days alone I would say you're doing fine, but then again this might all be flipped on it's head depending on a whole number of things as the plant really is still too young to make any big calls. here is what I would like to know from you - did you buffer your coco, or is the coco you bought already buffered? what water do you give? Tap? RO? how much and how often? have you given any kind of nutrients? did you pop those seeds straight in those pots? from the photos, what I can see is a seedling in a big pot, you've probably heard and seen some stuff on growers using small pots for small plants and there is reasoning behind that. you see the roots of a cannabis plant prefers not standing in stagnant water at all. when growing in a medium I follow the 3 day rule, if my mediun takes longer than 3 days to dry up to the point where the pot feels light when I pick it up then I know my pots are either too big and the plant can't suck up enough water an my environmental conditions don't allow the medium to dry out either, and/or I am giving too much water. the first thing that jumped into my mind is that you might have stunted growth a little bit by overwatering / too much wet media gor plant to use all the available water - the material bags as grow pots are meant to aid in this, as plastic pots take longer to dry out, but by over potting and soaking the media you're kinda defeating the purpose of the material bag/pot before taking my advice and running with it, please answer those questions about the water and media you're using, because based on all that you might be revealing a whole different problem. when growing in coco you need to watch your ph, very very important, you know what ph you working with?

BROTHER I wouldn't even know where to start, maybe check out this book?? Worldwide the list of medicinal plants goes on and on and on, this book however only looks at indiginous species and speaks of around 3000 species that grow in our African biome with medicinal properties, the book only covers about 400 species of them. so the list is a long one they have a section at the back of the book where they already grouped everything according to ailments, pretty cool I would also recommend if you're in the Western Cape to make some time and go check out Babylonstoren garden in Franschoek, they have a very sacred little space dedicated to world wide medicinal plants. probably the most elaborate medicinal garden I have come across my whole life. no doubt about it. you can even do a garden tour where they take you through the medicinal garden and teach you how to know what to look for and how to use a lot of the plants. there is a Dutch lady there I share my birthday with, we keep in contact through the years and she's literally a witch when it comes to plant medicines, her knowledge on the subject is so vast it's scary sometimes, that's why I say she's a witch if you do the tour and you're lucky she'll be the tour guide and you can ask literally anything and everything! ...ps there is some Salvia Divinorum growing in that garden too, but it's a very sacred garden and they don't allow guests to take cuttings from there. ✌

almost forgot the part about the dome. first I have to ask, you doing all this outdoors in the direct sun or indoors? the point of the dome is to not let moisture escape from your medium too quickly, so you've got it flipped around there bro beans, you gotta keep the dome on during the day to retain the humidity and not let the medium dry out. during night time out in nature the humidity levels rise as the temeperature cools down and the sun isn't evaporating moisture, so you may take off the dome during night time, but you may aswell leave it on. if high temperature is the issue when keeping the dome on during the day I would advise to move the pot into a cooler spot at least untill the plant has come up and formed some roots. once there is roots the plant cools itself down, but when you're popping a seed it's absolutely crucial that you keep in the range of 25°C, the more constant that temperature the better. if you got that 25°C on a constant, then worry about RH and get that up to around 60 to 80%. - anything lower than 60% will cause the medium to dry out too fast and anything higher than 80% will become favourable to mold and disease- hygrometers are epic little devices for propagation, they read °C and RH.

Only a pleasure brother✌ First time I see the ever-grow bag, never heard of anyone using it either so I can't really give comment on it. Hope it works for you! The Orgasoilux on the other hand I have tried once and heard a bunch of mixed things about it. my personal experience, I bought one bag that went straight into a 40L pot and I planted a 2 month old photoperiod over from a 10L pot, a nicely established plant and root mass, wasn't a small plant, yet few days later the plant was burnt to shit. still managed to save her, but not before the damage has been done. I grabbed my EC pen, did a runoff test and the EC was more suited for a fully grown fruit tree than a 2 month old shrub. so I flushed the soil with clean water down to the right EC, took the plants out anyway and put them in fresh FreedomFarms Premium Classic, still harvested around 50g off the plant... kept the flushed Orgasoilux in a big pot outside all winter exposed to the elements, rained through quite a bunch, used it after a few months and it turned out fine. but didn't trust it again after that. the general customer experience and feedback with Orgasoilux has also been a bit of a hit and miss situation, as far as I can remember, though lately it's been more positive, I don't use them as my personal go to brand. without second guessing myself, the brand that gives the best bang for your buck would be the brand with the most consistent results that you can rely on and study their product to get to know how to work with it better, without them changing the product up on you or delivering inconsistent results throwing your learning curve off course. You can't and wont go wrong with a bag of Freedom Farms Premium Classic, but see how this experience with those two bags turn out for you, one thing is certain - you're headed in the right direction Let us know how things turn out, maybe hit us with a couple photos, sometimes a problem goes unnoted and is easily spotted by external perspectives. Hope you have a grooovy New Years too man, stay safe out there

It's a nice vine shrub to have in your garden, with the very noticable flower and the dense greenery it puts on a nice show wherever it's growing. This plant doesn't bare any peas though so it is more of an ornamental plant. I read there's quite a list of beneficial medicinal properties the plant provides, people steep teas with the flowers and what not, so if you're into that you'll like the plant a lot! yeah this is true, no jokes vagina-like objects are so commonly found in nature I guess if you really interested in knowing which came first and who resembled who, you could do some research in the biological field of archeological and geological history to find the oldest species or specimen that had something that similarly resembled a vagina. my best guess is that a fossil of some kind will present that peice of information, maybe it was found in the fauna kingdom first, maybe the flora kingdom or perhaps the oldest kingdom that inhabits our earth to this day - fungi kingdom but then... who ever was first, where did they get the idea and what was the concept based on? like every particle of air itself has scientific merit that explains why and how it exists in the form that it does and how this came to be. just like everything else in existance. it's likely that the concept of a vagina was a million other more simple concepts smooshed into one complex concept over looooooong periods of time.

Hey bud hope you are well! Rotting cuttings means you're really only dealing with one of two things, if not both. Disease or too much humidity, and the two are mutual to a certain extent so maybe one is causing the other. a Cutting will not rot because it was too dry and whatever pathogen caused the rot also wouldn't take host if there was a lack of moisture. You'll do yourself wonders by cleaning everything properly and reducing your humidity. a bunch. and then keeping it like that. As soon as you see a sign of rot, remove whatever has the rot on it or it will spread. in theory if your conditions are right no rot should appear at all. Have you heard of aeroponic cloning? The reason I bring this up is because we take fresh oxygen for granted when it comes to root forming. we tend to think that it's all about humidity when fresh oxygen is basically just as important. you most probably breeding diseases with your conditions. another noteworthy thing is, where is this humidity dome standing? just for clarity, let's look at two extreme opposite sides of the spectrum, shall we? If you had cuttings standing in a dusty, danky, dark basement compared to cuttings standing in a labratory setup where everything is sterile and well lit and ventilated with enough fresh oxygen, which of these two will have higher probability of rotting? obviously the ones in the basement. now I am not comparing your situation to a dusty dank dark basement, but what I am trying to explain is that sometimes it can be the surrounding environment causing the issue. always good measure to make sure the room you're working in is on the clean side to minimize the prevalence of any possible pathogens. ✌

lekker lekker whenever I see a pea/bean flower I am reminded of a blue pea flower. have you seen them? I was working on a permaculture farm where I kept pointing it out and telling people the flower looked like something very peculiar. we kept laughing about it like we where a bunch of 12 year olds, untill the master botanist pointed out the botanical name and it just made the joke so much funnier. It became a point of interest for guests, so much so we had to put the botanical name on a board next to it and all the middle aged ladies started taking photos with it. so, this is the flower, what does it look like to you? maybe you need a bit of a "dirty mind" to see it, but this will colour your imagination a little further, the botanical name - .....aaand a little description if you still don't see it

fok me you gona stink up the whole block with that garden!!

Merry belated Fly Agaric Day, hope everyone had a blessed one well done brother! got some lekker bushes there, the pink skies photo is beautiful the wacky seasonal conditions and light cycles we been having is making outdoor growing a whole different experience. I see a lot of people pushing two small outdoor harvests this year as the plants they brought out begining of the outdoor season started flowering almost right away. I would put some money on a bet that next year will be the same story and the best way to combat this is outdoor lighting!

Hey bud, I would recommend against that, in all honesty, although I am not 100% sure what the science behind it would be -other than autos generally being full of shit and you can never be too safe- my gut is telling me no. only for the sake of "doing it for science" and at the same time minimizing human intervention, seeing as that is enough to stunt autos sometimes, you can try combining the two ideas. so you would fill your pot, dig a hole big enough for a swollen jiffy to fit in there, pop that thing in and drop the seed in the jiffy and only try to keep the jiffy area wet till you see life. gona have to use a dome in this scenario, the downside here may be that the jiffy is very small in comparison to say a "solo cup" or small 12cm nursery pot, so if you're only trying to keep the jiffy wet you're at higher risk of it drying out, hence the must use of a dome and meaning you're going to have to check up more often and keep it moist more often rather than using a bit more medium that can stay wet/moist for longer.

I'm trying to get him away from that stuff completely @Furbrain use it for your roses, spoil yourself and get something nice like Freedom Farms Premium Classic, can't go wrong brother. for popping autos in their final pot, here is a tip to avoid over saturation - nothing smaller than 20L pot space, fill the pot 80% with the FF soil, take a cup/small pot, place it in the soil right in the middle and fill the rest of the pot around the cup to create a shape mould of the cup/small pot in the soil, then lift the cup/small pot out and fill that hole with coco peat/sphagnum peat or any kinda inert medium with no nutrients. now make a little 1.5cm deep hole with a tooth pick or small object, drop the auto seed and close it lightly. now most importantly here, ONLY saturate the inert medium and cover with a dome/cut off plastic bottle (something seethrough to retain moisture, but allow light to pass through) if the sight of the inert medium dries you can spray it with a water sprayer just enough to wet the surface and place dome back over. because you're only wetting the inert medium you'll decrease chances of over saturation, placing a dome will prevent it from drying out, it being inert medium will decrease chances of any bacteria or mold taking over before the seedling has sprout, once the root is out it will reach into the FF soil and go on as normal. if things are a bit unclear, here is what I mean (just grabbed a picture off the internet) - your situation will just be a smaller hole, because you're not repotting, but only planting a seed. I would say half the size of the hole the person in the photo above made in comparrison to the rest of the pot. then fill the hole with inert medium.

couldn't have said it better myself this forum is such a select few of us out of the thousands of growers out here in SA, yet I've even seen people asking for landraces on here. couldn't keep count on all my fingers and toes how many times I've heard it in person aswell and I have yet to meet all the growers in SA. very true! this is why I love strain hunters and what they do, they're perfect for the job and I assume there are quite a few guys contributing to the preservation of genetics and for that we are all thankful, but imagine the bricky at the build site talking bout building skyscrapers and bridges in his backyard, it's possible, but sounds a little funny and is going to take some time. maybe it's just me worrying too much about nothing hahah

this clears things up the soil you use is nearly the most important part of it all brother! those bags of soil are generic premixes, not really suited for cannabis growing, you can use it but you going to have to change it a lot before your cannabis will be happy in it. buying soil that is premixed for growing cannabis is going to change your game for sure! I'll recommend freedom farms premium classic. it costs a whole lot more than those bags you got, but for good reason! soil science is crazy important when growing any kind of plant, I have used a lot of generic brands of soil and have found the most important thing is consistency. those bags you got there are also cheap for a reason, it's highly inconsistent. some bags are very sandy, some bags have a lot of bark, some bags will form clay or mud after a while and clog itself and become anaerobic and "dead". buying some cheap soil you really gotta know how to use it, like sifting out the bark, because cannabis wants literally no bark by its roots, adding the right amount of stuff such as perlite, vermiculite, coco peat aswell as doing runoff testing to see what PPM you working with and if it is suitable for what you wana do and know what to do if it isn't, like flushing your medium with correct PPM water till you reach desired PPM if it was too high. or if it's too low you gona have to add an array of different organic ammendments to get it up to the right PPM you need. also, you mentioned drainage, big part of soil science is aeration and the availability of fresh oxygen at the root zone. every plant desires a differnent condition, cannabis likes a 40 to 50% moisture around its roots, but luckily it's one of the more versatile shrubs when looking at watering schedule, although the most notable thing here is that on a moisture scale of 0 to 100 it prefers it on the lower side below 50%. the easiest take from this is you'll need to cycle wet/dry periods every 3 days or you might risk depriving your roots of oxygen. if you have a different situation you might need to change up your conditions. Move the plant around if it's in a pot, get it out of the storms, out of long rain cycles and all that. If the plant is straight in the earth, make sure they're covered during those times, they handle water better, although wouldn't be able to grow in dead/no drainage soil either. so really just way easier buying cannabis crafted soil, I promise you if your roots aren't happy, your plant wont be happy, and the only way to get good roots is with good soil. the soil is literally your foundation brother, the soil needs A LOT of your love and attention ✌

hey buddy, welcome to the forum, hope all is well your side who/where did you get your seeds from? you got any more?? this is not recommended for auto seeds when growing them, but you can test their viability by leaving them in a cup of water for 12 to 24hrs. if after 12hrs they're still floating, give a slight tap with your finger tip to see if any sinks to the bottom. the sinkers are for sure viable, leave the floaters till the 24hr mark, give another small tap to see if any sinks. the sinkers are viable and should pop (though maybe not with the autos) the floaters have high probability of being duds. if they all float, contact the seed supplier to see if they don't wana be generous enough to replace them. technically they don't have to, but some seed banks do. the reason I say it's not recommended when growing auto seeds is because generally with autos you wana pop the seed right in its final pot with no intention to ever repot and never interfere with them or else you hinder them too much and they turn on you, but in your situation you kinda need to test if they're any good at all. if you growing autos you have no need to concern yourself with what time of the year it is since autos grow and flower independant of light cycles. some seasoned growers keep auto seeds on hand so they have something to pop in winter when they can't pop photoperiods, specifically for the reason that they don't have to worry about what time of year it is. only when growing photoperiods outdoors you need to follow the seasons. sowing in spring, vegging through spring and summer, flower in fall through winter. but really if you look at the seasons here in SA, we start spring in Sept, but this year everyone who had plants outside in Sept. had early flowers, because the seasons are all fucked cause of that global warming thing. so we focus more on hours of light. any spot in your garden that gets 16hrs or more of sunlight will be the spot to veg a plant, anything less than 16hrs you probably gona induce flowers. so even if you got a photoperiod it will act as a auto, starting to flower really soon. seeing as you dealing with auto seeds, in your defence, they have a reputation of being full of shit. one wrong move and they flip you the finger. I really feel that photoperiods leave more room for error, and even if you mess them up you have a greater chance of fixing your problem and still ending up with some bud. I would also chime in on the whole growing medium thing, seeing as it's autos and you don't wana repot, don't think popping in one medium and then repotting to another is an option. you gona have to get one and stick to it. let us know what you using right now and maybe some pictures? I would recommend a lower/lesser nutrient soil, because you can always add nutrients and topdress with worm castings and all that, but because you going to pop a seed you putting yourself at risk when using hot soil. seedlings don't need much food, they get enough food from clean tap water untill they start showing first set of true leaves. just a note, it's harder to remove nutrients from hot soil than it is to add nutrients and in a organic situation the golden key is "less is more" hope you get something going sooooon ✌

I love strain hunters and their story, I did a lot of strain hunters watching when I was much younger. I believe the existance of the show holds a lot of water when discussing the "landrace" topic... and that is that not any ol' Jimbo with a internet connection can get their hands on the stuff, if they really know what they looking for. chances are if people knew what landraces are, they probably wouldn't wana grow them... you gotta be at the tippy top of the cannabis game to be taking part in that conversation. if you have to resort to buying seeds, especially from seed banks, you'll be lucky enough if you get something that's got a landrace not too far back in its lineage and hasn't been crossed too many times to try and closely resemble something that once was a landrace. in this video alone they speak of searching for landrace, infact that's the premise of the whole show - you can go in the mountain and grab a hand full of seeds and there you go, you have landrace. but is that what you wanted? no, no one wants that. what people want is that special ONE, perhaps it doesn't even exist in the field, yet. but has to be crossed and searched out. that's why they bring landraces back to the lab, because they wana breed and cross with the stuff, they themself don't even want to grow "the landrace". landraces are only worthy when looking at some charactaristics of said race. meaning it contains some preferred genetics that still need to be isolated. not the whole plant. when you isolate genetics is it still a landrace? nope. people that have been in the game for long enough to be considered "the King of Cannabis" know this fact. even around the 15:00 mark in this video a literal seasoned mountain growing Guru tells Arjan Roskam straight to his face "we have lost the local landrace"... just let that sink in for a second. who are we to argue or deny that? what's funny to me is that those guys would spend so much time, money and effort on physically traveling to different continents for specific reasons when apparently there is a easily accessible online archive that has all the highest regarded landraces that "eeeeeeeveryone is looking for" in storage, ready to go at the click of a button

I remember during my second indoor grow with freedom farms I asked around what I could add to the soil, because of problems I picked up during my first run, was told to add calcitic lime - a hand full to 30L of soil, plants got fucked even worse than the first round. lol this is how we learn I guess! for now I found the best way for me to grow in their premium classic soil is straight water till they show first signs of N def then topdress with wormcastings. I only start feeding any biobizz nutes during flower.

holymoly, yeah plants tend to grow a bit bigger outdoors so having that ourdoor window probably helped a little to stretch her out, but still filling a tent of that size with a pot that size is quite impressive! even more so with it being an organic situation! I've seen guys grow monster trees in small 15x15cm rockwool cubes, but that's in hydroponic situations. remember if a guy can go without IPM and get through an entire grow without having to deal with any bugs or mold, he should concider himself lucky to have experienced such a once in a lifetime phenomenon. so it's better to kinda already assume you're going to have to deal with them from the get go and make provisions. before getting into this, the absolute most important thing here is, whatever you spray don't spray when there is even a little bit of light cycle left. wait for light cycle to end, then spray as the plants enter dark period. Neem, at the right dose and sprayed in the dark will not cause any harm to your plants, infact it acts as a mild foliar feed instead, but you can toast your plants with too many nutrients aswell if you use them wrong. second most important, get your plant pest free before sterilizing the tent, or you might get stuck in a nightmare cycle of bringing pests into a clean tent, having them nest and jump back on every grow you bring in the tent. to get rid of the bugs you will need a contact killer, margret roberts specialises in organic products and the majority of organic products are systemic and slow acting and you need multiple treatments to see any results. a contact killer is something that kills bugs on contact. such as Pyrol. if one treatment at half dose doesn't do the trick a second one will, I always avoid full dose as this stuff is strong enough to toast your ladies. but you can do that too if the half doses didn't work. then just give recovery time for the plant. atleast bugs will be gone! once you see new growth with no mite presence you go over to BioNeem, half dose, every week. obviously except when in flower! BioNeem, or any systemic insecticide for that matter, you don't spray to kill bugs or even get rid of them, they're not phased by the actual product itself. BioNeem is systemic, like the margret roberts stuff, the plant needs to uptake it first and what it does to the plant -changes the taste of the plant enzymes- so whatever wants to eat your plants (non-beneficial insects) would be detered, while predators (beneficial insects) go unharmed. double win. if you keep it clean you wont need to deep clean like this very often, but at the very least after every grow. then just maintain that with religious IPM through out the grow. empty it so it's just the tent standing and no equipment inside. grab a broom and a duster and hit all corners, walls, roof and floor. grab a vacuum, go over all surfaces getting the corners real good. make sure there are no dirt piles hidden anywhere. no cobwebs, no dust piles. now go clean your equipment, take apart fans as best you can and wipe down all surfaces so there are no dust present. you could use the vacuum again, but better to use a low pressure blower to get dust out every corner of your appliances. just don't damage wires or electrical connections. once there are no dust visible anywhere, you get warm soapy water or a peroxide solution and wipe down all surfaces. lights, fans, ducts, everything. inside and out. all parts cleaned properly before reassembly. now once your inline fan is clean as a wistle. go back to your tent and install the inline fan with the ducting. now grab your peroxide solution, pour some into a spray bottle and spray every surface making sure you see small droplets of it on all surfaces. (you can add a sirculating fan, only if they're also properly cleaned by this time) once you sprayed down your tent inside with the peroxide put the fans on and let it do it's thing, give it 20 to 30min, nothing longer or the peroxide might cause damage to materials. go back in the tent, do a wipe down so you don't see any peroxide solution left behind anywhere. - your tent is sterile now. bring in the rest of your cleaned equipment and install. now bring in your bug free plant, remember the Neem every week till flower, you can even spray the neem 2 weeks into flower, but by week 3 stop spraying anything and everything! this together with good air sirculatuon and rapid FAE will keep you bug free for sure for at least one flower cycle. by the end of the flower cycle, it's deep clean again, and the next batch of plants get treated exactly the same, even if you don't see any bug damage. sorry for the long read man, might seem like a lot, but really isn't much work at all, hope you get rid of all the pests and keep it that way! ✌

Guten Tag!

mites by defenition belong to the arachnids, spiders, they make webs. if there isn't a dusty corner for one of those uglies to nest, they'll make one.

@Hooper looking good man, one big plant to fill the tent, I still have to try this at some point! how long you vegging for? how big is the tent and the pot? your situation with the spiders mites sounds a little like you got a little nest or infestation somewhere either in the tent or perhaps outdoor garden on plants surrounding your house. I like to think of mites the same way as mold spores, because they range from microscopic sized to juuuust about able to make them out with your naked eye. also doesn't help that they congregate on the underside of the leaves so you only spot them when damage is done and in most cases by then you've already lost the battle of infestation. the spider mites we deal with can reproduce sexually aswell as asexually, meaning it takes only one of those buggers to create a colony. just like with mold spores. this is why I think of both those things as "ever-present" and we have to constantly and consistently maintain an unfavourable environment for those two to take host. I am sure you have heard of IPM (- Integrated Pest Management), that term came along quite some time back when farmers realised they can't wait to see when damage has been done, but rather consistently do weekly treatments throughout certain phases of the plants life. now you might say, but hey you're not a farmer truth is if you growing something that would deliver a crop and you're depending on the quantity and quality of the crop and you would like to use products to have consistent crops and harvests, then you're farming it's just not commercial farming. my suggestion would be to redo your clean up, make sure there are no mites on your plant before bringing her in the tent again. otherwise you risk them infesting your tent. they nest in the strangest of places, if there is enough space for a dust bunny to collect they'll nest there. in your lights, in your fans, in your air ducts, on the material of your tent, on your clothes, on your arm hairs. those fuckers are literally everywhere, they can even travel in the wind bringing us back to the idea that they act more like mold spores than insects and you need to be taking care of them even when you don't see any signs of them being present. also big shoutout to mr.Bos for dropping the most crucial piece of information on this subject don't get stuck on one product, pests in your area will thank you for it. I know a lot of people talk about the margret roberts stuff, but from my experience (which is limited) I have better results with BioNeem and Pyrol. 2 good products to add to your IPM arsenal. Pyrol for once off contact treatment. Neem for weekly preventative. but most importantly, don't wait to spot infestations before beginning treatments. work them into your routine

2 weeks later quick update here, spotted those dreaded spots on the leaves clearly indicating mite presence not on my watch!!! very suspect as 2 of these plants where clones picked up at the dagga farmacy in Paarl, they where said to be pest free and I treated them before introducing to the rest of the family, yet they're the only new comers on my property and now my streak of no pests inside my tents has been broken. I emptied the tent, deep cleaned everything with soap and warm water, then a peroxide spray down and another wipe down. had the plants outside, so did a late night full dose Pyrol on all before going back in the tent. the Pyrol obviously had to toast one plant in the process, wasn't light burn as I did this during night time she's still alive, but a bit behind the others now. at least no signs of mites anymore. going to double up my weekly Neem treatments to twice a week, but lowering the dose a little. only few weeks now before they go into flower, can't risk it now!! I moved all 3 of the DS over to the right, one in bottom right corner biggest and fastest grower, yet all cuts of the same plant, soil the same and treatments the same..... strange, just shows how much plasticity has an impact in so many different ways and factors. so we got the Blueberry HashPlant looking sexy and exploding with growth in the top left corner, had to pinch, bend and manipulate her a little to get her closer to the height of the rest. bottom left we got Frosted Apricots, she's the one who took the hit and is now a little behind the others, already made a full recovery though, going strong and not far from catching up cuts in the middle is for next run, got a French Macaron - THSeeds cut as a gift from a good friend.