Naughty.Psychonaut

14 hours ago, Martin7318 said:

The first option you have here, which you say you would go for, is down at 44 microns. That's super fine. Not too fine, maybe?

yeah that might be too fine, the picture I posted was just to give a visual representation of what I am talking about, if you click the link you'll see it takes you to the page with all the options from 32T all the way up to 120T. 

you can choose a less finer one, though I wouldn't say the 120T is too fine, you'll just have less contaminants fall through than with a less finer mesh, giving you higher quality resin head isolation. 

the ideal thing to do would be to get multiple different screens. don't know if you've seen any of mr.Canuks content on youtube? here is a good video for you to watch right now 

then I would also recommend checking out this guys videos on youtube, check his whole channel, you'll learn a lot about dry sifting and solventless hash from mark the bubble man. 

https://youtube.com/c/BCbubbleman

@Martin7318 what's up bud

a while ago I was looking at something similar, I wanted to dry sift some larf to make some hash, asked the question and got a couple options for you,

https://peasysqueegee.com/?product_cat=screens&post_type=product&s=screen 

Then the next option would be to contact all your nearest local baking supply stores around you and ask if they can hook you up with this...

If they don't have that cookie silkscreen they'll most likely have this.... - it's a baking sift, not a normal sift, this sift screen is way way finer than a normal sift, but this will still let a lot of plant material through - this might be the same stainless steel mesh they use for the "trim bins"

last resort would be building your own, I looked at building my own silk screen, as you probably noticed, they're not cheap. Much better price than the 1.5K for a "trim bin". finding silk mesh is harder to do than I thought and what I did find was rolls of the stuff with prices way worse than just buying one of those premade screens with aluminium. what I did find in terms of a screen mesh you could use is this 30cm x 30cm screen with 200 threads per inch, very very very fine will do the job you looking to do, but again not cheap, at least you don't have to buy a whole roll of it. then comes the stretching and securing it onto your border.

personally, I am saving up for a set of 3 of those screens in the first option. 

25 minutes ago, Gus said:

Hi any help with good buyers here In SA especially Western Cape

Hi, buyers for what?

fok that's a big tent

you gona need a lot of light for that size tent, if you get only one of the 240w qbs you'll only have round about a 1mx1m of decent coverage in that space, and theoretically it'll be even less efficient, because in your tent the light wont have the reflective walls at the 1mx1m border to bounce back off of, so you will "loose" that light off to the sides. this is the whole point of the reflective insides of the tents. 

you can always add lights as you go, which is nice when working with those small qbs, they take up very little space, easy to work with and all that so you can hang a lot of them with ease. 

I would also say at least 3 of them in that tent and 4 max, you can play around with the dim and brightness settings too if you get the right lights so keep that in mind 

excited to see you put the setup together! 

@Riettevdm

welcome, hope you are well

listen to mr.Dave and go for the 240w. anything smaller will be a waste and you'll have to add or upgrade soon soon. 

what size tent you going for? even with the smaller 80×80 tent you wana go 240w minimum, but I would also not recommend the smaller tents as they usually just a stepping stone to something bigger. 

my schedule has not allowed me to pay full attention here, so I will be passing off this project to a buddy who can never have too many plants. 

they're sexed and selected. from the 6 x Trainwreck I got 2 keepers. from the 12 Hawaiian Cakes I got 3 keepers. just need bigger pots to make it to end of season or perhaps going straight into the earth to be grown out, not looking at breeding or anything specific anymore. going to be making some extracts with these. 

I topped the pots with some kak looking compost, just getting some food in the soil, but they'll be repotted soon and the barky shit on top will be discarded. 

left - HC, right - TW

TW 1 - leaves canoeing abit, think it's just heat related. 

TW 2 - she's small, but we've all heard it can be the stragglers that bring the terps and frost, keeping hopes up

HC 1 - all 3 of them stink like someone stepped in dog shit

HC 2 - 

HC 3 - 

I like the idea of having a constant thread going rather than creating a new thread everytime, so I will be trying to keep most of my stuff under relative topics for now

I will start a flower tent log as soon as these ladies move over. 

finally got the time and space to grow out some of the Deluxe Sugarcane cut I got from a forum member quite a while back. grew her out and made a bunch of clones. originally I was planning on running all DS, but that plan was short lived as I got 2 new cuts before I even had the DS rooted I picked up a Frosted Apricot and a Blueberry Hashplant cut, let's see what we get  

the small cuts are just backups of all the stuff I got in flower currently

ending the thread off here with a full tent, this was a sort of a little "comeback" for me as I took a bit of a break from growing when I moved. I will create a new thread with the new run and a couple new genetics for me to play with that I am excited about  

 ✌

I see what you trying to say brother, will try it one day when I am growing autos, but for personal experiment best I can do now is try is with a photoperiod and see what happens.

maybe I shouldn't have vouched for his method, but thought it is worth the mention as it would defs without question reduce stress over all compared to other methods and also give the side branches more direct light as I can detect using just my eyes and to my knowledge this does help with growth, it also reduces direct leaf surface light penetration on the leaves surrounding the main apical merristem, but then again I have less than no knowledge about autos.

is OP growing a auto or a photoperiod though? not sure. maybe he can let us know?

2 minutes ago, Khakibos said:

Shot, I didn't even bother checking bidorbuy !

hahahah yeah as growers we tend to forget that there are other suppliers around that sell these things! I asked around for these, was told to check the pet shops that stock reptile enclosure stuff, so I did... and found heatmats at a way better price than our grow shops sell them for too  

so here is the thing brobean, I am having a typical monday over here and will get back to looking for the exact place I got my hygrometers from when I am home tonight, can't seem to find it right now, but what I did find was an offer on amazon that comes down to about R23 to R25 each, but it's a 12 pack and it's coming from the US. that means the whole pack is R273-ish excluding shipping and import fees. 

they ask $16 for shipping and import fee deposit, this is fucking rediculous, but I hope it means there wont be any import fees when your package reaches customs, but the only way to tell is to place the order and see what they say? 

the R273 for the pack of 12 plus, and the R256 for shipping all the way from the US is still almost half the price of the R80 for 1. say you wana buy 10 you have to pay R800? craaaaazy

6 minutes ago, PsyCLown said:

How well did this actually work? Did the lower branches catch up in height?

yebo, and on autos nogal, check hom

5 minutes ago, CreX said:

the only true test would be a whole harvest (same plant for the whole test) that gets sampled at 10 days 20 days 30 days and so on.

also has to be a blind test to add more accuracy and less chance for any bias. 

I've smoked weed that was a clone grown by multiple growers and myself and I liked their stuff better and the only assumption I can make is that I've smelled and tasted my own bud much more than their stuff so just having less exposure to it makes me like it more 

34 minutes ago, Khakibos said:

You mind sharing a link ? I was looking at getting more for a new drying cupboard and the cheapest I could find was the R80 ones from hydroponics.co.za

going through my emails to find you the link real quick, will post you asap

I have to mention it was on a website that just links you to suppliers or stockists and had 50 different options with 50 different prices. I had to search quite deep to find that price and it's not to say that it will still be the same, but R80 for one is not something I will pay.

a quick bidorbuy search presents ones for R50, already R30 off each. alibaba presents many options gona see if I can find you something

14 hours ago, Prom said:

80 rand at hydroponics.co.za 

 

no guessing... between 60 and 64%, otherwise you have to do something. No need for a freeze dryer... 

what changed your mind about these? I can remember you asking me why I would want to use these when I asked where to get them?  

I got mine online for R30. hydroshop is crazy with their prices for these. 

52 minutes ago, Batista said:

Yeah, cannabis growers have alot of terms that relate specifically to weed, probably because they were stoned at the time lol
I mean just look at the names of some of the strains

'Sea of green' is probably another term you won't find in general horticulture amongst others.

Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk
 

hahah yeah I get you, I remember starting out I would hear guys mentioning all kinds of terms that I didn't get! 

fuck I missed is just a whole lot less professional than sea of green or screen of green even, but not that anything weed related needs to be "professional" in the general sense of the word. I mean it does sound hip and cool, but just in the wrong way hahah

so this all just made my mind jump back to a video I saw a while back, it's mr. canuk on youtube and the situation here is he is growing autos and had to find the least stressing way to get side branching to catch up with the rest and here was his solution. no need for cutting at all, but I guess this isn't gona give more nodes. 

@Smirre69 

don't mind all the rubbish brother, 

the answer to your question is, 

firstly, can we see photos and second, no it's not too late to cut/fim you can do it at any time. as long as you in veg. 

and adding to that, why would doing the same thing at two different stages and it only resulting in different outcomes be called "fuck I missed" that makes less than no sense? unless it wasn't what you planned on doing and was going to top, but missed the branch and only got the node? 

which would give you more branches than you bargained for... how is that a miss? the only miss I see here is missing the branch when you made the cut, is that the right miss you guys are trying to point to? 

even so, it's still topping the plant  

contrairy to your statement of the fimming leaving more nodes, I have a Super Lemon OG now that went into flower, but I wanted to veg her out, so I cut her with pruning shears close to her base, sparing few nodes. as you know when they flower the node spacint can become very tight and it just so happens that where I cut her there was 3 nodes basically ontop of eachother and as you can imagine, 3 branches are coming out. so does this mean I did a FIM?

this term is so loose

2 minutes ago, PsyCLown said:

FIM can be applied to all plants.

 

It isn't quite the same thing.

 

FIM you still leave that top node there, it still grows into a branch. You are not removing it completely.

So say there are 3 small nodes, you almost remove the biggest one and you still end up with those 3 nodes fully developing.

 

With topping, if there are 3 nodes you would remove the one to force more growth to the remaining 2.

When you FIM you still remove that apical dominance without removing that node.

 

They both lead to similar / same results in the sense that they both lead to bushier plants. FIM should lead to more nodes though.

 

This is a top as that node was removed completely, forcing growth to the remaining 2 nodes below. You'll end up with these 2 nodes becoming main colas.

A FIM would still lead to 3 main colas.

my query is this, 

as I mentioned before, I do what you're talking about, almost all the time, the careful removal of the apical node, but because I am not doing this only when there are already 3 other nodes the results I get 95% of the time is just 2 branches. the same amount I would end up with when topping. 

since the first time of a plants life I remove a apical node the way FIM is described, so does this mean I am FIM ing?

keep in mind you just described that FIMing should leave more branches....?

ok so, after little investigation, so far nowhere in horticulture does the term or abbreviation FIM get used other than amongst modern cannabis growers. 

I understand it might be a new thing, but it really should get a more appropriate name than "fuck I missed" cause that just sounds like some 14 year old kid growing his first ditch weed and trying to sound cool...

I have just gained so much more resistance to that term, it's literally the same thing. 

does this even exist anywhere else in plant terminology or is it just with cannabis growers? 

cause if it's just with cannabis growers I am going to laugh. all plants get topped, so there better be a FIM of all plants.... let's see

I won't register FIM in my vocabulary as anything  

I've done both, both do the same, I manipulate my plant by looking at it if I want it lower I cut it, if I want more side branches I cut it.

1 hour ago, Weskush said:

FIM is instead of topping the node clean between the two off shoots, you top 3/4 off the growth, leaving a 1/4 of the growth behind. Hence Fuck i missed.

How does this even mean "fuck I missed" what did you miss? if you plucked it, you plucked it, you didn't miss it? what am I not getting?

at least with my explination, which was just one of the 100's I have heard, it's more fitting as when you realise a certain shoot taking off faster it means that one has not been toppen, hence "missed"... 

1 hour ago, Weskush said:

Last thing. I've experimented with topping and fimming and fimming is not as effective in reducing stretch/vertical height  than topping. Topping creates a lekker bushy structure

have you FIM'd as early as the 3rd node as soon as side branches form? you can trigger the bushy structure by fimming early bro. easy peasy lemon squeezy. I do all my plants like this. when they clones, even easier. just "FIM" the longest node the whole time. 

1 hour ago, Weskush said:

FIM is instead of topping the node clean between the two off shoots, you top 3/4 off the growth, leaving a 1/4 of the growth behind. Hence Fuck i missed.

thanks for the explination I get what you're saying, because when I google it, that's what I find... the reason for my statement is I been hearing 100 things about "FIM" -ing, certainly have heard the explination before, I worked with ouens that's 70 years old and growing weed for over 40 years, they "top" their plants the way you described and when I mentioned "FIM" he asked me what the hell I am talking about... soooo I don't know bout that one hey  

it's obvious that you would save the plant some stress the less of the plant you cut/take/snap/break away and the longer you grow plants the finer your touch becomes and you figure this out and naturally just start doing it, it's topping, but I will let these gurus know that the scientific word for their method is "FIM-ing" and they shouldn't confuse the newer growers with the wrong terminology. 

it's literally a modern abbreviation