Naughty.Psychonaut

@Totemic bringing the FIRE to those of you okes looking for US standard "instagram worthy" genetics, hit up the reputable local breeders. Knowing the lineage will help some of the older Dutch breeders catching up quick, but I feel SA local breeders giving internationals a run for their money. here's the proof passed the halfway line, two stretchers showing some sativa growth-like charactaristics so they probably right at halfway SSC#1 - medium stretch SSC#2 - SSC#3 - compact SSC#4 - stretcher in the bunch SSC#5 now a short write up more or less the same terps from all of them, can smell a lot of the candy -almost burnt sugar like- terp that reminds me of the Deluxe Sugarcane cut I grew. only #5 got a chem note hidden somewhere in it, but not chem I am used to. I've come across many chemical terps, but it's usually an overwhelming amount of a certain terp that turns it chemical, like a pungent fruity terp will turn chemical if it's fruity enough, a gassy terp will turn chemical if it's gassy enough. So there's always something with the chem. my last grow I had a Platinum Silk pheno from Inhouse Genetics, before the first smoke I was not really hyped on the strain, made beautiful nugs but I couldn't get myself excited cause it smelled like straight super glue. that nose stingy chemical glue terp that makes you go "Oh this is some real fucking gluey glue". I seriously thought there was something wrong with the plant.... after a month of cure I now understand how Gorilla Glue got the name. there's an actual glue terp, I mean I have smoked maybe 20 different looking "Gorilla Glue" strains, most of the was good weed but I never tasted glue like this. and I fucking love it, it's probably some of the strongest weed I have at the momemt and I love smoking it more than any of the other fruity stuff I have. I actually cut back on smoking it in order to savour it, so you know it's that good. back to the point, this SSC#5 got an actual soapy chemical smell that both puts me off but also makes me excited in the same way that PS got me. I am beginning to understand why there's a couple new genetics out there with "Soap" in the name. I mean, imagine smoking soap. or just consuming soap, hearing that name before completely put me off cause I just thought who the hell would go for something that may taste like soap... but now I understand.

gave me a good laugh with this one shots fired! hahah are they even still operating? I remember they made a comeback, but never heard of them again. Some growers are religious about treating any clone like it's riddled with disease and pests even if they come from a higher standard facility than yours - tons of people don't take in any clones unless it's something they really reeeeeeeeeally looking for, because of that reason. I used to not care, though I was always aware of this, I just went on about my shit the way I wanted, till it hit me square in the bek. Now I also shock treat and quarantine any outside clones. As soon as they come on my property I make a 3L bucket of 50% Pyrol, keep my hand over the pot with plant between fingers as if you going to take it out for repot, but then just keep it in the pot and dunk and swirl the whole plant in the 50%pyrol mix, then I leave the plant in the garden or just somewhere that makes sense. I only say "somewhere that makes sense", cause some of the stuff I have heard and seen is just................. yeah Anyway, yeah trust me, a shock treatment with a contact killer and a quarantine will keep you safe. sometimes, infact a majority of the time, you wouldn't see the trouble, because facilities that supply clones do weekly IPM and what not, so if there's any pest or fungal pressure you wouldn't see it right away, but skip like 1 or 2 weeks of IPM and the problem will take host. this means when you take a plant out of that invironment you carrying all kinds of unhatched pest eggs, unsprouted mold spores and all that shit with the plant that would've been curbed by the IPM, but now there's no IPM so the eggs will hatch and the spores will germinate. and if you working with microbes and get to understand how they operate, let's take PM spores for instance. the PM you get is not the same PM the guy from the next town over gets. It's the same genetic structure but a different phenotype (just like with plants and all other living things basically) they mutate and adapt to different conditions. this is why in KNF you hear a lot about incorporating IMO into your soil, cause the micro organisms that are indiginous to your area are not the same as the micro organisms that thrive in a different area. that's why you get different kinds of flu and other diseases. they're the same thing, but they mutated in different conditions so they end up being classified as two different things.

Hey bud! This is what I call a "Big risk, Low reward" situation, but that's only if I am understanding correctly. You spraying a nutrient, not a pesticide or fungicide? Stuff like Bio-Sulphur, Spinosad and Potassium Bicarbonate is to curb mold spores, also known to be the least harmful out of all products to spray during flower, so spraying that stuff in a situation where you feel or know you may have mold pressure during flower will make a lot more sense than doing foliar feed during that time, it may mean more harm than good so it's a bit counterintuitive if there's not significant improvement but big margin for error. This is actually the more important part here, this needs to be the other way around, you gotta wait for lights to go off before spraying anything. You can damage your plants even during veg when doing this. There's quite a long list of reasons why and I'd love to explain, but I can go on for days about this so I'll leave it up to you, if you want me to explain I'm open I agree with Evan, once you got loads of hairs you stop any spray. It's not the as much the RH that's the problem, though it's definitly a problem too, it's more about the stuff inside whatever you spray. Spraying clean water during flower can be a problem, because of RH, especially late flower when the buds have internal moisture, but once you mix stuff into that water it doubles the risk, because even the stuff that's safe to spray during flower will burn the crap out those pistils if you mixed it juuuuuust a little too strong or spray at the wrong time Some people spray bio-sulpher or spinosad during flower, even late flower, without problems, but then you really gotta know what you doing when you gotta spray, how much as dosage and and and..... though with all that said you definitly wana keep your RH more constant and lower during flower, even if you not spraying anything. 30% ideal RH in flower. IPM is a big must, for every grower in every situation, foliar feed is just extras, but even with IPM -something that MUST be done weekly- as soon as you switch to 12/12 you gotta step back. you must give 7 days between foliar treatments - so lets say you switch to 12/12 today you can do your last full dose spray, next week you'll see one or two pistils here and there when you IPM you do a 50 to 70% recommended dose, another week later if all goes well you'll have pompoms forming and you should spray anything less than 50% dose. 3 weeks into flower you'll have full pompoms and first swelling of calyxes, this is where it becomes dangerous to spray anything and it's completely up you, the general consensus is to not spray anything beyond that point, so if you do and something goes wrong you gotta take it on yourself and remind yourself no one told you to do it and that the rule of thumb is to not do it

Lol Dude, that's why I said - but you wouldn't understand why I would say that if you didn't slowly and clearly read and grasp this part - just remember, TIP burn, it's in the name, the damage will be on the TIPS. those leaves are very very small still yet you can clearly see the tips are fine. the colour is on the inner part of the leaf.

Woah, I'd love to see a light that makes the grow room colder. I thought generally lights give off heat? Or am I wrong? The presence of anthocyanins may be due to many many many things, but I have never heard of a plant turning purple cause of too much light. Sometimes a lack of light yeah, if it's paired with a lack of heat. If light is too intense for a seedling you'll see upward cupping also known as canoeing, forms of necrosis and/or tip burn which is basically just early necrosis. This will be, because when the plant has an excessive amount of photosynthetic active radiation (PAR) on the leaf surface, the excessive amounts will register as heat and the leaves will indicate through one of the responses mentioned earlier. Anthocyanins generally indicate a lack of something. 95% of the time it's a lack of heat. Rest of the time it could be due to either lack of nutrient, ph imbalance which also results in lack of nutrients and lack of light. Outdoor growers will have this experience where they can't move the plant and just the one side grows into the shade and gets a few hours less sun than the rest of the plant, that one branch that's in the shade will turn purple. Never the other way around.

Yew!! looking lekker boet The fluff, is mostly due to genetic potential, but only "mostly". no doubt with some fine tuning the buds could look slightly different, but the room for improvement on the genetic will be limited. a plant, or genetic, is a set blueprint that just needs to unfold. the amount of resin it makes is fixed in the genetic "code", you can't make a genetic make more of what it's "coded" to make. You must chek the dudes breeding, coming down to the last BX before you can call it TIBL, to stabilise the traits you selected you'll put a batch through torture test to see how resistant they are to pest and diseases, then select the winner there to take further. leave them in absolute shit grow conditions and in the end you still get dank sticky resin coated buds, but what will be affected is the health of said buds and resin that's on the bud meaning, the resin glands may just not be fully matured, chemical composition inside the resin glands aren't fully developed, over all plant health will make the plant BRIX% drop to shit, this is the plants carbohydrate reading, meaning how much sugar is in the plant and if you got a shit BRIX% you can do whatever you want the plant will taste like shit. buds just wont be properly formed and maybe during torture you gona get mites and all kinda unwanted shit, but nothing can change the genetic code that the plant comes with. Those being two completely different genetics you can't really compare amount of resin at all. Even if you had the same genetic but 2 different seeds they will produce different amounts of resin. They will be different phenos. Check my current grow I got 5 x same genetic but different phenos, out of the 5 there will be 1 winner, 1 that's clearly more resinous than the rest, and they same genetics. Can't compare them, but I know I should, cause I am looking for the winner, expecting them to make the exact same amount of resin to begin with would be my mistake. Unless plants are clones of eachother from the same mother you can't compare them like this. The extended dark hours before harvest is a myth, here is why - You know about "Apogee" and "Perigee"? The moon orbits the earth not in a perfect circle, but rather eliptical. Apogee is the point where the moon is furthest away from the earth so the moon looks smaller. Perigee is the point where the moon is closest to the earth. As we all know, the position of the moon has an impact on the bodies of water on earth. It effects the tides of the oceans, it has an effect on the water inside your body, inside the earth... basically every atom that carries a water molecule will be effected by the position of the moon. The earth and the moon has about the same gravitational pull as eachother, but earth is almost mostly water. The low viscosity measurement of water allows the gavitational pull of the moon to "pull" on water, but just as magnets that are attracted to eachother, once they're too far away they loose attraction. This means, when the moon is closer to the earth the ocean will be at high tide, but not all over the world -cause water is confined - buldging to the side the moon is closest to and lowering tide on the other side. The water table under the ground also rises during Apogee and lowers during Perigee. This has big effect on farmers, but not indoor farmers such as the vertical FMCG farms, they create their own seasons and harvest time does not depend on the lunar cycle such as with outdoor growers. Fully outdoor growers that are dependant on the calendar and the lunar cycle will be more effected by the moon position and find that come harvest time if you checking the trichomes they'll seem a little bigger and perkier in the early mornings, but it has nothing to do with the darkness, it has to do with the time of the year and the position of the moon. The extended dark period before harvest comes from the notion that you go from 18/6 as veg to 12/12 for flower. so people thought "aaah extending the dark time makes the plant push resin", knowing the plant can't grow in complete darkness the whole flower cycle people somehow concluded that leaving the plant in complete darkness right before harvest will cause it to just throw out resin. In hindsight, it causes more stress than anything, probably just encouraging mold to grow cause the plant it still attached to the roots, even if you don't want it to the plant is still making chemical exchanges, growing and "doing stuff" and at no time in a plants life does it grow in complete darkness. This comes back to - a healthy plant makes the best end product - not some special life hack mechanical treatment thing. the goal is purely to try and get the plant as healthy and close to natural as possible and you'll be happy.

hehheeee yeah nah, dude I can still remember my first dab with a dome nail, this thing the dome comes on, then the little nipple inside gets torched and the dome goes back on, no heat retention or anywhere for the dab to melt so you know when you done half your dab rig is covered in a sticky mess, nail was always glowing red hot in those days, the days of "if it aint shatter it don't matter" hahahah FML as soon as the little piece of shatter touched the nail it's flames and drops of extract flying cause of the combusting BHO that was never fully purged, 90% of the smoke goes up in the air and the 10% you get in burnt the living fuck out of you, saliva pouring out your mouth, nose, eyes and ears sweating like someone about to OD.... had to go lay down on the grass in the shade, focus reeeally hard on not dying while coughing my guts out almost to the point of throwing up.

Like they say "Find what you love and let it kill you" I love weed, but I have never loved the idea of smoking it through a running computor box and it kinda gives me solace knowing I was too poor to afford that stuff a couple years ago anyway As with everything in life the variables are endless, you can have the best rosin in the world with the best device and still have a kak experience. I've smoked bho that gave me that "fresh air" pull off a quartz nail that you get with rosin, but dabbing that same shit on the same rig that same day, with the nail just being a little hotter than before the bho clutched my lungs, couldn't get breathe for a good minute, head started vibrating, heart start pounding. not enjoyable at all. it is possible to have a really good experience with a dry herb vape / cart pen any of those, but the likelyhood is much less and probability of having offputting experience is much higher, so there's that too... a good dab you just taste like flavoured fresh air that gets you baked like a bread, but only for like 20 to 30min. very minimal lung clutching and coughing. rosin is the "cocaine" of the weed world, it comes in small amounts, when you got it it's all about the experience, that first few minutes after the consumption, got a fat cheeky smile on your face and feeling ontop of the world 30min later you sober like a Sunday and in need the next one till the bag is finished. That's why I am going for the Puffco + a press. Can't go wrong, but then again if I try Piatella and it's better I may just rely on others' press if I ever want any kinda rosin done, but as I understand Piatella is a form of water cured ice water hash, so you don't need a press and the end product is better than rosin.

Ok, so a bunch of things have shifted around, veg tent is now flower tent since these local genetics just exploding. flower tent just getting clean watering enough to keep soil 50% moist but not encourage much growth, also cut her back a whole bunch, reduced light and just letting her relax before the hard work starts. SSC now in w4 of flower #1 #2 #3 #4 #5

Which is fair, Germany got much higher standard of living than down here in 3rd world SA - I am not giving any kinda credit to the SA government as you know I despise them, but the same grey laws have been in action here in SA since 2019 brother, with a higher plant count + higher dry product limit. not sure how, but maybe you can explain to me how does a slower turn of legislation and more restrictive grey areas correlate to a better working government? I mean, I agree with you about Germany having a better government than us based solely on the fact that they have higher standard of living than us, but what you just said made me scratch my head. It has taken Germany 4 years longer than SA to even start thinking about changing the laws and still imply more grey areas and restrictions than SA currently does? just trying to have a real discussion as I genuinly don't get it

I do have a recommendation, though I can't say the thing without giving my whole reason, cause it might sound way out if I don't explain. You're making the right move brother. I'm in the same boat as you. Though I got a wnole dab rig setup and and and it's just gathering dust cause there's just too many bells and whistles to get to before I can smoke. I have thought of getting myself the Q7 from hydrobizz, it's a portable E nail. Out of, well basically everyone I know that smokes concentrates no one uses a pen/cart. Almost all of them have gone through the tier list, starting with the pens and stuff, then they end up getting something better. I know guys that dropped that 5 to 7k when the first flower & concentrate hand held vape thing came out, cause it was so revolutionary. All those guys smoke flower bongs these days. the entourage effect is just too good. you move over to concentrates completely, as a weed smoker your body will not be satisfied and you'll find yourself lacking being high the way you remember it. I do however wana smoke much less bongs, and more concentrates, though I will never completely stop. It'll be more of an experience thing, like the unmatched terp experience you get from hitting a perfect solventless dab, and then just less bongs to give my lungs a bit of a break. Though, through everyone elses experience with all extract smoking equipment I got the insentive to skip over all the cheap shit and save my money for the proper Puffco experience. Either getting a Proxy or if time treats me nicely I'll hop on the Peak straight away. Not gona waste time or money on testing more expensive stuff that'll just set me back all the while. Same with my extract, just been collecting and piling up, cause I keep working my trim and and and... had to dig in my heels and stop myself so I can put money away for a press. no point in wasting time and money on making bho kak just cz I wana dab like the rest of everyone. naaaahhh, rather do nothing and save time and money for the real deal, who knows maybe in the time I am saving a new better thing will arise and then I'll hop on that. I see Piatella is all the hype now, people getting off the rosin and stuff, things change so fast. I know I rambled a bunch, but I hope it helped?

Aah I see yeah those should work fine, the ones I have in mind I think are purposed for house fumigation. It kills, well even humans. Need like a 24hr clear out period. vacuum is always a must, dust houses a ton of spores and mites and unwanted shit. I like to wipe down stuff as much as I can, I don't complete a whole cycle in one tent, I have a perpetual system so about every 3 to 4 months I move from one tent to the other, that gives me a gap to clean in the middle of every grow and at the start of every grow. Fans and that stuff need that warm soap water scrub down, can't skip cause of the dust build up and I open the body blow the dust out with a nice cumputor box dust blower and oil the little motor, because of this I am running a 5 year old RAM fan, 3 of them one is only 2 years old now. The tent walls I can sometimes skip, but cause of the small space I got plants up against the walls and stuff so when I do IPM the walls get wet, plus humidity build up + dust creates a thin layer of sticky dust that's another spot for spores to congregate

hahah no worries brother you don't need to worry bout it too much for general living, we need a healthy balance of good and bad microbes in the spaces we live in so we can build a strong immune system.

Awesome brother I'm very excited to see that cheesexpbb! Do you know the parents of the Nutcracker? Plants looking great!

what about post harvest 3 part bud wash? that used to be the Go To for pm harvests loads of people doing it even though they don't have pm just to get rid of dust, hairs and bugs and shit, especially outy growers. but it started off cz of late flower PM. the bicarbonate soda kills the pm on contact and if that doesn't work the lime will. those work nice in a big space, maybe it's a less hazardous one you talking bout here, but the ones I am familiar with the fogger itself it says you have to be out the room when it's fogging and when you can only enter again after a couple of hours then you gotta wash or wipe up any residue the fogger makes, cause it's quite harmfull to humans. If you got a small space the fogger gona leave a fine coating of residue that you'll have to wipe off anyway. I would rather stick with the old trusty vacuum of all dust in corners, take out and wipe down all equipment then washing everything that can get wet with sudsy warm soap water aswell as the inside of the tent, then spray 3% Peroxide inside the tent making sure you get it everywhere, zip the tent up and give 30min then wipe down so the peroxide doesn't bleach or harm anything, bring in all equipment after cleaned, then do a second peroxide spray, again 30min later wipe down and there you go. A grow room good enough to do an surgery in. Usually when I got all my equipment in I put fans on aswell as the inline fan then just spray a strong dose of pyrol, get it in the vents and shit, this I never wipe down. Just incase you missed one last thrip or a spore. @AfrikaansePotkop if you gona strip the plants, or even just work with them, infact the fans already doing it, but you see one first note of pm I usually switch off all fans right away, run to get a plastic bag, bring it to my tents, carefully try to take the plant out the tent and move it as far away from the tent as possible before touching or moving the PM stuff, then I bring the plastic bag as close as I can, trying not to directly touch the PM or else you just spreading it, cut far around it so you know you get it all and not gracing any spores and it goes straight in the plastic bag. all of it and right into the bin. If you look at an angle and you lightly touch the pm areas you'll see a smoke-like plume of spores come off into the air, those are basically pm seeds and they're in spore form. if you know about spores you know they can survive thousands of years in unfavourable conditions and once the conditions are met it will take host. Spores can survive underwater, in space oit of earths atmosphere, through fire.... it's really incredible what spores can survive and they travel in the wind or on your clothes or arm hairs. this is why it's incredibly important to not spread those spores inside your tent, otherwise you slowly digging your grave creating an endless world of headaches for yourself.

Damn, that cheese x pbb probably gona be crazy! Where did you get it, if I may ask?

Plants are looking good bud! I note the back plants are taller so closer to the light, but also what Litit mentioned about the heat on the sides. Also much easier for air to become stagnant between two objects, if you packing plants all along the wall you gotta leave a space between them and the wall aswell as in between them. If you add more plants you gotta add more fans aswell, but usually it's best to stick to keeping a space nice and "open" to play on the safe side. I always aim to fill up my space, but when I say full I mean 90% max and that's including a fan, 2 fans for flower room and I only run 1mx1m spaces. You right bout that space being a bit too full, gotta make sure the fan is able to get to all areas. Fresh air exchange and circulation is incredibly important, undesired VPD range can make a good light cause light issues, even though it's not the light itself that's the issue. If vpd is out -> plant stomata not acting right -> abnormal transpiration = easier to get hurt by light and/or humidity Is this in a tent or a closed space? When you say intake fan, you running on a positive pressure? Grow rooms run better at negative pressure, you gotta suck air out. If it's a sealed room you gotta have same amount of air going in as you got going out and a big must to monitor CO2. If it's a tent or a non sealed room the fact that it's not sealed will allow passive intake.

Damn ... Freedom Farms. Suuucks to hear that from one of the more reputed names. It's a bigger problem for them as a brand than it is for the customer that runs into an issue so I am sure they would appreciate the feedback so they don't run into the same problem again. Either straighten out the lazy employee or replace them. Not giving feedback on big problems like these can be even bigger issue at the end of the day and who knows, maybe they thank you and bless you with some merch or new soil just to cover their ass. Even if they don't, at the very least, all they can do is use the info to avoid another slip up. Luckily I am off buying soil anymore, but I remember about 5 years ago till the other day still FF being the most consistent soil brand for us locals, but also hearing a lot of people running into problems with their stuff lately. About a year ago now a bud of mine transplanted 2.5month old clones (not small plants) straight into their Premium Classic soil and it just turned his plants into a crisp right away. That's trusting that he took my word to only give water, and didn't give nutrients (I know him to be that kinda guy, does exactly what you tell him not to do) plants just turned to a crisp. Luckily, because they all photoperiods we saved them, but yeah.... Freedom Farms being caught slipping up a bit too much lately, but then could also be the difficulty of trying to keep up with demand. I'd say if you looking at organics, even when you get into it, you'll end up making your own soil or amending soil you have as a base, so it's better to start waaaayy before planning to grow in the soil so once you wana make the move you're one step ahead of yourself. With organics we never throw anything away, you can basically use the cocoperl you got there as a base and build on that. A worm tower to make your own worm juice and castings - takes literally 10 to 20min to make, very very little financial input, helps to make clean up easier around the kitchen, builds a better relationship between you and the natural cycle and ultimately the plants too, will be the best time and effort investment to make for your plants and garden in general as the worm colony grow you can multiply your towers, you can sell the worms, you can literally just throw them on the ground in the garden and get a good healthy conscience boost as you're basically reviving, regenerating and spreading life.

That sucks! What brand is this? Did you take it up with them? Are you completely against the idea of organic growing or may I suggest it?

I like this! Gona be a bit hard to give a set finish time if we doing a outy thing - the finishing times may differ a bunch from person to person, area to area, especially if everyones growing a different strain too. Just to narrow down the finish time a little and give a more "level playing ground" I feel a same strain competition will work best, especially if we submitting buds. Realistically the dude with the BulkSeedBank seeds can put 100% of everything else in and do a 100+ phenohunt and knock it out the park with the keeper, but they probably still already lost to the guy with the current hype breeder stuff. Just an example, it's not something that already happened, just giving an example by drawing margins.

I agree about the root issue. @nakes The first thing I noticed is that you didn't mention the heat in the tent? You did mention the extraction fan being out, that may play around with temps a bunch, but it will have a bigger impact on the RH, depending on your setup. Is the extraction fan only cooling down the light? If RH is a problem and the plants can't breathe properly it's gona be a problem. Another big one, where the root problem becomes the leaf problem - Check on your rootzone temperature in correlation to your leaf surface temperature. Those HID lights are not enough to heat up a rootzone, they give off nice heat, but once the cold settles in the soil the light will basically just heat up the surface of the stuff it hits, like your leaves. Giving you big contrast in the temp around your roots and on your leaf surface. Then the heat from the light becomes more of an issue than a good thing. How big are the plants? If you talking bout throwing them away, you gona replace them? Just asking, because they clones I know they photos and photos can be turned around at the grave. I like making recoveries instead of hitting the restart button, cause I learn more that way. If it was a bunch of autos I couldn't really help you much and if it was a bunch of different phenos from a seed pop I'd say no way of throwing them out, but if they still small clones and you got replacements I'd say feed them to the worms. if they big plants it's way too little of a issue to be thinking bout throwing them out. Another reason I ask how big they are - 250w mh in a 1.2 tent is actually a very good combo, but at what distance is the light hanging in correlation to how big the plants are? they're clones so I can't go by age or say "seedling" stage, but clones go through a sensitive stage too when they small. I'd like to add, smaller rootzones will generally be a bit colder than bigger ones. Eg. - a control measure would be to take both a 10L pot of soil or water and a 100L pot of soil or water, heat both to the same temperature on the surface and internal, take them both out in the cold, the 10L soil/water would have cooled down much quicker than the 100L pot. If you have a plant growing in there and you got some life going, some movement, gas exchanges and all that then it creates some more warmth for itself. Smaller pots typically don't work in a living soil way, big living soil beds have nice internal temperature that it self regulates like it does with PH and EC and all that, but with smaller seperate pots need something external to keep the roots warm to keep up with the 23 - 28°C range you want above soil. How do you grow - Organic? Synthetic? What kinda feed you use and all that stuff?

Lookin reeeal good!!! remember to clone them before flowering them out, high probability you gona wana grow them again or at least the winner pheno!

I'd be down to clown with yous just gotta time it nicely as I got my space full and backlogged as fuuuug, but can easily make plans if I got enough time. More than happy to do a outdoor thing if it falls during the outdoor season, realised my outdoor winter veg setup sucks ass everything is on pause

Yew, bro that looks great Well done!! The suagr leaf amount differs form genetic to genetic and from plant to plant, but when the weed is just for you then bag appeal doesn't really matter all that much. I know a dude that jars his buds with very very minimal trimming just cz he figures thats how he likes it. Buying indoor you expect to find a solid dense bud with big fat resin coated calyxes instead of a bunch of leafyness, but you notice now as you continue to grow that those "perfectly formed buds" are all mostly phenotype related and then your condotions and how you look after them play a smaller roll. When pheno hunting one of the key factors people hunt for is the plant that offers the least trimming work when, big chunky buds with very little leaf. Not every genetic will make "instagram worthy" buds, but even out of the gene pool that does make perfect buds there will be a phenotype that makes better looking buds than the rest. 2 big players in bud density will also be your lights and overall plant health, but if the genetic phenotype don't allow it, you can put it under the best light with the best health it'll still just make airy leafy buds.