Naughty.Psychonaut

Been enjoying all the different flavours! Flower tent is filled up again, all clones from previous batch. Just installed the net, tucked a few tops and moved a few branches around. About to flip these girls maybe give it a few more days, though I will not be documenting this batch. Got a couple clones in the veg tent, they're all going to new homes soon. My focus is on the Deluxe Sugarcane cuttings inside of the dome on the heat mat. Got a cutting from a forum member a while back, grew her out a bit and made a few cuts for my next batch. Will be documenting the DS grow when they take off

wow that's a crazy reveg gona have a nice big bush!! do you know the strain of those plants?

I spent a lot of my days picking out the thinest of papers, untreated, organic papers, hemp papers.... it's only logical, right? No, it's all bullshit. I believe we're being taken for a whatwhat by the marketing sector. BIG RED FLAG FOR HEMP BASED ROLLING PAPERS BIG RED FLAG FOR ANY CELLULOCE BASED PAPERS BIG RED FLAG FOR ANY WHITE PAPERS Here is a video to help some understanding how to look at rolling papers before buying and not only to read the name on the box

yeah my mom loves marigolds, she always got some in her garden. she got wacked over the head with marigolds when the whole "save the bees" thing was going on. she planted loads, still buys new 6packs every summer but marigolds was all that held up and there are bees and ladybugs swarming it as soon as the first flower opens.

a marigold is a stink afrikaner? arent they meant to repell unwanted insects by the smell of the plant itself and attract predatory insects with their huge bulbous flower such as bees and lady bugs and other pollinators thus detering unwanted plant eaters even further? first time I ever hear a marigold attracting unwanted insects.

oh man, bugs sure do love them some bean plants. I have infestations on my beans every year, gona try out some dragons tongue, but each year I start seeing bugs on the beans it's not long before I see them on other plants too on those beans you picked, I can't really make out the plant? is it just a stalk with some bean pods on it? looks like you got some wild beans there man, magical beanstalk, though those look pretty average not sure about species, will have a look see if I can find out for you

how did you get rid of this plant? just make sure the bugs can't still spread from this corpse. I think best way to get rid of a plant like that, you bring a black bag over and cover the whole plant, chop it down and it never sees the light of day again. bag is closed properly and it goes deep in a bin. sometimes it's good to let it lay in the sun for a day or two to help kill the mites. They are notorius for sticking to clothes and materials, can stick to your arm hairs, we can transfer them by touch the same way mold spores act. these guys really are pesky and a fight with them is usually not over so quickly.

A wipe down and a spray will be nescessary. The wipe down first, with a bucket of the peroxide solution, all the nooks and crevasses where a bug usually likes to go to lay eggs, they sometimes use dust and shit to build a little cover to lay eggs under and just spraying the solution will not take care of that, after the wipe down I would spray it again and let it sit for about 30 sek to 1min, just to kill any other unwanted dwellers. (you probably know this yourself, but a mite will literally sit infront of your eyes on a flat surface and you won't see it, this is how small they are, so don't half ass anything here) don't let it sit for hours cz the peroxide might harm some of your gear if it's allowed to soak in or bleach the colours of stuff. The pyrol thing, I cannot stress this enough, Pyrol should NOT be used regularly. it's a contact killer and it's quite strong, a high dose will surely burn your plants. if you want something you can spray weekly, you going to need to get some Neem, just note, Neem is not a contact killer and won't kill the bugs if they're already there, but will keep the plant pest free once it actually is pest free.

Hey bud, I know Kemprin is an insecticide, but for interest sake, why did you use Kemprin particularly? you can definitely still save that plant though. Mites are pesky little fucks, but with the right preventative measures you'll almost never see them in your garden or at least keep populations at bay. they're so "microscopicly" tiny that they can travel in wind, literally they act as fungi spores, so for good measure, you kinda have to assume that they're everywhere all the time. by saying this, it should be clear that you have quite a bit of a problem on your hands there. If not taken care of correctly they will spread without a doubt, they will even infest and make nests in your tent and fuck with future grows. with your situation, here is what I would do - *empty the room and bomb the tent with 3% peroxide solution, then with ISO wipe down (everything from the light to the ratchets they hang on to the floor mat/tray every single thing you can take out the tent, take it out and clean it) then spray pyrol at a strong dose in the empty tent and let everything run, fans and all so the pyrol and disinfectant agents get inside your fans and air vents. maybe do this twice or three times before bringing the plants back in. just whatever you do, DO NOT bring the plants back in before they're bug free, otherwise your cleanout will be in vein the plants need to be shock treated, all of them. I would suggest pyrol, but at a lower dose than recommended because they already look stunted. 2 or 3 Pyrol treatments will do the trick no doubt. (rather spray more times at a lower dose, than to spray one high dose and toast the plants completely) then from there on you gona have to up your IPM. 1st rule of thumb, don't take in any clones or gifted plants without bombing them with your special IPM. 2nd rule, be religious about IPM. 3rd rule, make sure your airflow is unfavourble to the mites. either switch up how the fans run or more fans more fans more fans.

I remember another contestant getting dq for not updating as the rules dictate, what is the case here? I see it's been 2 weeks? Just checking, I know a bunch of stuff changed in regards to the end date / judgement day thing.

I used to go for the unbleached OCB papers, but now I like this pack better so I roll with them

@Dr. Green Thumb what's up bud Just a reminder everytime you gona work with coco to make sure the coco is buffered. If you buying already expanded coco make sure the brand states it's buffered, if you gona buy coco bricks you gona have to buffer them yourself. another noteworthy thing when doing a coco/perlite grow is you're basically doing a hydroponic grow. the coco/perlite will just act as a medium the roots can hold onto, this will mean you gona be better off using nutes meant for hydroponic growing. you been growing outdoors so I am gona shoot in the dark here and assume it wasn't hydro setup and you didn't do much in regards of PH and EC? if you wana move over to coco/perlite hydro style grow you gona have to pay close attention to PH and EC. with living soil and organic growing you don't concern yourself with that too much, although I do recommend getting a PH and EC pen on hand anyway for those check ups and to minimize guessing work. Freedom Farms I think is the go to with most growers using that (there is a poll on the forum, also word of mouth), honestly I have tried every bag of cannabis "craft" soil, the most important thing here is actually consistency, freedom farms has that down to a T. every single time I try out new soil I think it's the kitties titties, till I run into shit then I find myself back on the ol' trusty, Freedom Farms green bag. if you growing in a living soil I would recommend going the organic nutrient way, there will be much conflict surrounding this topic and I shit you not it will never end. however choice is yours anyway. GOLDEN RULE - with living soils and organic nutrients LESS IS MORE, and in any living soil you wait till the plant starts asking for nutes instead of just giving the whole time like with sythetic nutes. argument is always organic is so much more expensive, well honestly you use like 1/10th of the amount of shit you'll need for hydro.

Welcome! Excited to see what you growing!

Welcome! show us what you working on

Welcome!

that's quite an orgy they're having! they probably laying eggs in the soil, some bugs lay eggs directly on plants but usually then bugs who feed on the plants aswell, I would just keep a eye on them

she's already looking much better remember all the new soil is jam packed with nutes, so keep the water pure till she's settled atleast or even till she starts asking for food. that's much easier to diagnose and rectify than overfeed. that's a moerse pot how big is it? you could possibly fill that whole space with just one plant in that size pot! I would still recommend checking the EC though, if your ph is in check and you get that EC in the 0.8 - 1.2 range your plant will literally explode with new growth.

late harvest (mostly amber trichs) - CBD/CBN rich, few more medicinal properties, hit's the body rather than the mind, longer lasting high, couch lock, sleep inducing. early harvest (mostly clear trichs) - hits the mind rather than the body, can cause a speedy feeling inducing anxiety and paranoia, high is short lasting. both are "intense" for different reasons, I like early harvest too cause I am already lazy as it is

oh yeah bud then you on point! general consensus says when you think it's ready give it another week

Are those photos deep in the nugs on a calyx or on the outside on sugar leaves? Looks goood, but if it's on the sugar leaves you gotta remember those trichs ripen faster. If it looks like this inside the nug you are golden

holy fucking shit! now I am more interested than ever in why the hell this stuff is sparky like that!!! I heard stories back in the day of weed being harvested in some rather "unsanitary" places and the dry rooms being sprayed with doom and dotted with rat poisons to keep insects, spiders and rodents at bay, then the weed gained stories of being laced with doom to "make it stronger" but the guys who did it, didn't do it to intentionally lace the weed, though the stuff got on the weed anyway and caused problems with the consumers. but what you guys are telling me now is wild.... got me researching a bunch and came up with some crazy shit!!!! some legal grow facilities in the great 'Muricas use forms of radiation to clean their weed post harvest!!!! This guy seems legit, gives sources for personal research for all the sceptics, his channel on youtube has actually got quite a bunch of facts on weed for those of us who may have some unanswered questions about weed.

I see you getting your stuff from the Brackenfell Hydro store, so I am assuming you from cpt area? Depending on where you are I could possible swing by with my EC pen. First follow what was said, plain water from here on. if you repot, the new soil will also be loaded with nutes, so I would say, leave her in the pot she is for now and just give plain water to rehabilitate her to where she is actually able to form new roots and uptake nutes. (this will be when you see new healthy looking green growth on top) she's still in shock now and repotting into more nutritional soil will only shock her even more. If a week or two goes by and the girl still not looking good you may need to flush her. Then I will come over and help you flush her to the right EC.

Hey bud, hope you are well That plant can easily be saved still no worries, let's see what we can do! Just 3 quick questions, first one, you got a EC or PPM pen? can really save you right now!! And then explain a bit more the watering regime? The tap water gets bubbled and sits at 6.2 to 6.5 and then you add the nutes? Or do you bubble it untill you mix the nutes and then ph before giving to the plants? Last one, what ml/L of those biobizz products you giving? 6.2 to 6.5 ph for living soil is 100%. won't lock out anything in that range. Although, I do think you might be looking at lockout, but from nutrient toxicity. Your medium EC will tell you what to do right now. Living soils are already loaded with food, then you ammended with wormcastings, humigrow and molasses and you're giving all those biobizz products. EC for that size plant should be 0.3 to 0.6 and I think you might have gone a little above that with all those nutes. just my guess, but depending on how you ph your water before giving to the plants and how much ml/L you used of the biobizz stuff could possibly change my guess

DE will only really work on soft bodies such as larvae dwelling in the top soil. if the plants are still in veg you gona have to combine a contact treatment with preventative measure. fighting a already existing colony and keeping the plant happy and thriving is a big challenge, there is no one and done treatment here, it will be a series of steps. I would suggest 50 to 75% (this shit is strong as hell and can easily burn your plants) strength Pyrol treatment, 3 or 4 days later a 50% Neem soil drench (don't want to contaminate your soil and make it uninhabitable for your plant), atleast 7 to 10 days after first Pyrol treatment do a second Pyrol at 50 to 75% again, another 3 or 4 days later the second 50% Neem soil drench. repeat this untill you see no more flies. if plant is showing signs of being unhappy, dial back on the % of product you spraying and skip a week of treatment to give some recovery time, but not too long, need to stay ontop of those fly fucks. once you don't see any more activity, continue with IPM, I would suggest keeping a dry layer of DE ontop of the soil, with light 25 to 50% Neem sprays every week untill flower.

DE mixed into soil will slowly release minute amounts of calcium and silica in the soil, but it becomes nearly ineffective as a insecticide once wet or mixed into the soil. it also basically only works on larvae and soft bodied insects. usually something that can already fly won't be impacted by it at all. best way to use DE for countering insect life to throw a thin dry layer of it ontop of your soil, not after you watered cause it will just become wet and ineffective, wait till top soil is dry and sprinkle. Golden rule is it will never work for infestations. do this as preventative measure, rather than waiting to see unwanted activity then jump into action. by the time you see unwanted movement you gona wana do a contact insecticide treatment like Pyrol or something that will take out a already forming colony. probably gona have to do two treatments, a week apart from eachother. then continue with IPM to keep them at bay. needless to say we spray nothing during flower so all this needs to be done during veg. Also good tippy tip is to kinda always as soon as you repotted something as soon as it's dry ontop you sprinkle DE, and repeat after every watering about 5 times. So you repot, water in, the very next day will be when the larvae in the first 5cm of soil will become active and also a good time to sprinkle a layer of dry DE all over the top of the soil. so that when the larvae move upwards to hatch it will kill itself when it tries to pass by the DE.. ✌ I love DE, always got some on hand and I use it religiously. it works.