Naughty.Psychonaut

I am assuming this is the runoff values? You test what whas going in? ph should be fine, although it's 0.2 or so out of range, for a flowering plant in coco the ideal ph is 5.9 to 6.2. Right now it seems your plant might not be uptaking Phosphorus, Boron and Manganese. grabbed a simple chart off the internet, there are much better charts, although this one gives some guidance the ppm, I hope is that low because you been flushing, but for flowering plants the ppm should be around 1000 to 1500ppm. when looking at trichomes to determine ripeness don't look at the trichomes at the tips of buds and not at all on sugar leaves. they tend to change colour way before the buds are ready and we trim those away when harvested. find a nice exposed calyx or somewhere you can really get in there and look at the trichomes on a bud. those should all still be clear. typically a plant goes for longer than the breeders claim, so I would say wait till the estimated time then add another 2 or 3 weeks. I do have to add that those girls are showing some really nice colours right now!

I believe you might have felt discouraged if you bought a nice new light thinking that is the problem, but then plants dont react and still look the same. you would've still had to get air sirculating and get the roots healthy and all that so I think this is a big step forward for your grow space.

hmmm, that actually flips the whole show around, the ff coco mix come washed and buffered in the bag, if I am not mistaken? maybe contact them or try to see on their website if their premix coco bags are washed and buffered? did you do the ph and ppm tests? I also had a wake up on the whole mixing your nutes so long before hand, I assume if the hydro guys can mix their reservoirs once a week you should be fine doing so too, but still would suggest checking ph and ppm very often if you going that route. hahah I had the opposite happen to me, had a bunch of coco sitting around so used that for my first grows, before really taking anything serious, then my lack of knowledge discouraged me, untill I bought a bag of FF along with my first tent and all that. didn't need to know much and had exellent results!

almost you spent a kakhuis full of money for no reason very exciting to see your girls in such good shape!

You did the right thing by not repotting before flipping, I wasn't asking because I was thinking what you did was wrong. just trying to follow your general train of thought on things Let's see the ph and ppm values for interest sake, remember to chek the values of the water you put in, don't make too much runoff. give little bit by little bit water to saturate medium as best possible before collecting first runoff, otherwise if you throw a bunch of water in the top one time and collect fitst runoff you not gona have accurate readings. So coco, coming from a coconut tree that genetally grows on coastlines and close to coastal areas, generally have excessive amounts of Mg in it, because of the salt in the water, soil and air around where it grows. This is why coco needs to be rinsed before use, especially those compacted bricks of coco need to be rinsed thoroughly. If you working with unwashed coco and added more Mg along with the calmag supplement, that might have been causing issues too. about the buffering, this could also be another reason why plant isn't uptaking nutes, most important part about buffering is to help keep ph stable through out the grow, but that's not all the surface of coco naturally has a negative charge (certain compounds will not "bind" or "stick" to it) it has to be introduced to cations which are positive charged ions, which are capable of "holding onto" those compounds. if your coco has no CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) you will essentially be pouring some nutes right into the trays below the pot. so the washing and buffering and then still having to check ph each and every single time you give water. coco is so much of a headache I am not sure what the mixing of nutes so long before they're used will do to the composition, but I wouldn't suggest it. at least you testing the water each time before giving it? if the ph and ppm is still where it needs to be, it shouldn't do any harm. I see a lot of people growing for CBD these days, are you going to be making extracts? hahah you got a couple nice plants growing and gona yield couple nice buds to smoke on, you're really not that far off. I bet we all still feel far off from where we wana be! I know I do!

aha aha I see, if you where vegging for longer would you have put them into bigger pots or is 10L your biggest? hahahah guess I should first ask before stepping on any toes again, you growing to get bud off your plants, or you also not growing for yield? I mean there is a lot to be said, but if you're just growing, because growing is growing, then you doing 100% showing is your plants and not wanting advice. I had to read back on the thread, I see a lot of talk about adding silica. Have you been doing so? if so, how much and how often? You got a ph and a ppm meter brother? as mentioned before on the thread, silica can cause nasty ph swing. Just for interest sake I would like to see what the readings are on the runoff there? You might have caused ph issues somehow, ph might be just out of range to uptake certain nutes. you working with salt nutes, so I am guessing you're in coco? what ph you giving them? did you wash the coco and are you using some sort of calmag? I also see that you are in week 7/8 of flower already, indicating that growth has slowed down conciderably, but being so late in flower might deminish the possibilities of a full recovery and the plant returning to its normal self. by the time you got the roots fixed the plants will probably be pushing nanners cause of old age. don't wana risk that. I would really like to know the ph and ppm readings, it will help reduce the guessing. I think your best bet is to switch to plain water and finish those girls up, but take note for future grows.

looking good there brother! just a few questions from my side, if I may? what size pots are those and did you let the plants grow into the pot before flipping to flower or did you flip to flower shortly after transplanting? looks like they could've gona a little longer before flipping. another question, what are you feeding them? By the time you smoke the bud you want there to be as little possible active chlorophyll, this is the only reason why people "flush" their plants a week or two before harvest, because if you feed and water them up till harvest day you increasing your chances of smoking chlorophyll, also it helps kick start the drying ans curing process. However in your case it looks like your plant is already using the last of the food it's got in it, sending the "energy" in the leaves to different places to compensate for deficiencies and the plant is fading out, long before it should. if you're still feeding them you might have caused lockout and now it's not taking up more nutes. if you not feeding them you probably should. they look like they have a while still to go before they should be fading.

although this one is more on the HST side just goes to show the resilience of a miracle plant!

what's up, monkey heres my on autos, they do not forgive any slip ups, slight stress will have BIG impact on your yield. you need to know what you're doing before letting a auto destroy your confidence. Autos are pretty cool actually, if the grower can avoid any form of stress. to the seasoned growers they make perfect sense. shorter crop time, no need to stress too much about light cycle. reasons why I stay clear of autos, firstly I am not a seasoned grower and know there is a greater chance of fucking up than getting the yield I want from them. second reason, if you have the same strain of plant, one photoperiod and one auto, do EVERYTHING perfect on both of them, the photoperiod will yield more. AND it will be more forgiving of mistakes during the process. reason number three is because most people grab auto seeds so they can grow outdoors and harvest all year round, well if you planted a photoperiod it still would have grown, probably bigger than the auto atleast before starting to flower. it would act like an auto and start to flower early, but it will leave some room for mistakes to be made, which an auto does not allow. aaaaanyway!!! Welcome here with us and happy growing man

well deserved, that is a nice photo!

sorry to let you down there @PsyCLown

I see you boys came to play!! I had to actually sit down and think about this for a second, how bad could one sip really be?? for a 120w qb..... hmmm yeah I have to say in all seriousness thank Big G for the difference in "could" and "should" a food grade product is safe to take a sip from in a unfortunate event, so you "could" sip from it, but also shouldn't be doing it for fun, my health comes first so this offer does not apeal to me it is a clear liquid and looks alot like water untill you mix it with water and it turns milky. the way we used it on the farm you would have guys pour out small quantities in water bottles to transport, because we would mix this into everything that we spray, so you would find the bottles all over, atleast once a week someone will sip from it, never had trouble

hey hey! I don't see any qb yet hahahah

now we're talking!!! throw a qb on the table and you can call mr.surfactant man veg tent needs an upgrade!

lol only 200 ?? my entertainment don't sell that cheap, how broke you guys think I am

I could sip the product I use and won't harm me

I work closely with a distributor for Adama products, I got myself a jug of their food grade non ionic surfactant. stuff goes by the name "MCW EOS". I've seen people ruin a plant by mixing ionic surfactants and the stuff interacts with the products they wana spray.

as long as I am in veg I am not tooo worried about residue, because I have it anyway I already account for dealing with it by washing the plants. if I add sulpher I will keep it in mind! I make a special time to spray aqsf, because it's a micro organism I would rather itroduce too many than too little, so I up the dose to 15 to 20ml/L this is why I am getting residue from the stuff

do you mix ingredients when you spray? like mix the aqsf and something else in the same spray? I use a nonionic surfactant when spraying anything at any time, except for when I am spraying aqsf. With aqsf you wouldn't need a wetting agent as you don't really need the plant to uptake the aqsf. and all a wetting agent does is help the spread of the products on the leaves, helps to keep the products on the leaves and not drip off with the rest of the water and help the uptake through the leaves. 2 or 3 days after spraying aqsf I will wash the plants, because the aqsf will leave residuals on your plant, and you just need the micro organism that you've inroduced, Ampelomyces Quisqualis, to take host. another reason why I don't use wetting agent with it. This is the main reason I spray absolutely nothing during flower, I would spray aqsf too, if it didn't leave my buds covered in brown dust. this leaves me no choice but to be almost religious with my IPM during veg.

didn't notice the auto part at first, I agree with GLO. ☝

if you wanted to keep both, you can, but they might compete, not sure. if you wana seperate them you going to have to wait till they big and strong enough to handle the surgery. will be easy though, clean the roots as gentle as possible and try not damaging even one root, shake the rest of the soil off while slightly tugging on them and they will come loose. don't just rip them apart hahah

hahah awesome man! yeah twins happen quite often, no stress you just choose the stronger one. don't pull the one you don't want out, might damage the roots of the other one. snip it where it comes out the jiffy pellet.

these are all good for IPM and contact treatments for pm too? I got aqsf, copper soap and neem, then keep a small bottle of pyrol for contact treatments. I find the neem acts as a mild foliar feed when used right, leaves seem to gain colour and perk up a bit, aswell it will help keep thrips and mites at bay. I have yet to see a bug infestation on my indoor garden, so the pyrol has only been used outside on my citrus trees and some viburnum shrubs that had a few wooly aphids. Aaaaanyway, brother your plants are all looking sexy I already you gona still give us a good show with the one you selected

and no smells?

aha, ok ok... didn't even know about biosulpher, got to check the stuff out. I guess farmers who spray hectares at a time will go for the cheaper option which would be the generic yellow powder, I read it's extracted from volcanic brimstone or something.