Naughty.Psychonaut

I work closely with a distributor for Adama products, I got myself a jug of their food grade non ionic surfactant. stuff goes by the name "MCW EOS". I've seen people ruin a plant by mixing ionic surfactants and the stuff interacts with the products they wana spray.

as long as I am in veg I am not tooo worried about residue, because I have it anyway I already account for dealing with it by washing the plants. if I add sulpher I will keep it in mind! I make a special time to spray aqsf, because it's a micro organism I would rather itroduce too many than too little, so I up the dose to 15 to 20ml/L this is why I am getting residue from the stuff

do you mix ingredients when you spray? like mix the aqsf and something else in the same spray? I use a nonionic surfactant when spraying anything at any time, except for when I am spraying aqsf. With aqsf you wouldn't need a wetting agent as you don't really need the plant to uptake the aqsf. and all a wetting agent does is help the spread of the products on the leaves, helps to keep the products on the leaves and not drip off with the rest of the water and help the uptake through the leaves. 2 or 3 days after spraying aqsf I will wash the plants, because the aqsf will leave residuals on your plant, and you just need the micro organism that you've inroduced, Ampelomyces Quisqualis, to take host. another reason why I don't use wetting agent with it. This is the main reason I spray absolutely nothing during flower, I would spray aqsf too, if it didn't leave my buds covered in brown dust. this leaves me no choice but to be almost religious with my IPM during veg.

didn't notice the auto part at first, I agree with GLO. ☝

if you wanted to keep both, you can, but they might compete, not sure. if you wana seperate them you going to have to wait till they big and strong enough to handle the surgery. will be easy though, clean the roots as gentle as possible and try not damaging even one root, shake the rest of the soil off while slightly tugging on them and they will come loose. don't just rip them apart hahah

hahah awesome man! yeah twins happen quite often, no stress you just choose the stronger one. don't pull the one you don't want out, might damage the roots of the other one. snip it where it comes out the jiffy pellet.

these are all good for IPM and contact treatments for pm too? I got aqsf, copper soap and neem, then keep a small bottle of pyrol for contact treatments. I find the neem acts as a mild foliar feed when used right, leaves seem to gain colour and perk up a bit, aswell it will help keep thrips and mites at bay. I have yet to see a bug infestation on my indoor garden, so the pyrol has only been used outside on my citrus trees and some viburnum shrubs that had a few wooly aphids. Aaaaanyway, brother your plants are all looking sexy I already you gona still give us a good show with the one you selected

and no smells?

aha, ok ok... didn't even know about biosulpher, got to check the stuff out. I guess farmers who spray hectares at a time will go for the cheaper option which would be the generic yellow powder, I read it's extracted from volcanic brimstone or something.

interesting! Is it a specific sulpher spray or did you just mix some yellow sulpher powder in water and spray? used the stuff quite regularly on the farm so I got a big bag of that powder for free, haven't been using it cause when I do the whole place smell like bad egg farts.

@CreX this you, bud? would've never guessed that hahah I saw the bit of blurple visible in your avatar and thought maybe it's got something to do with cree LED tech

what's up pippin does that spray work systemically or on contact? Systemic stuff gets getting upsorbed by the plant and will remain inside the plant for quite a while. doesn't matter if you don't get it on the buds, it will be inside the buds. if somethings not OK to eat, because of chemical composition, I would rather not take a chance and assume I can smoke it. the white pistils that turned brown is not good. you have stunted bud development. Keep an eye on the plant, 1 of 2 things will happen. Best that could happen is it might sit and do nothing for a while and then return to normal and push buds. Worst that could happen is the plant will completely stop to grow. I had a friend recently spray Neem oil on his flowers, to help with thrip controle, all the pistils turned brown and a week later 2 of the plants completely stopped growing and started slowly shriveling up more and more to the point where he just tossed them. other 4 plants took about a month to recover, some made reveg foxtail looking buds, plants took forever to mature. when harvested the buds did not seem right.

well that sucks!

@Naughty.Psychonaut

well it sure does look all kinds of goood you remember the breeder?

looking good man

understandable, and I appreciate you saying that, the only real advice we can give is that based on our own experience. when giving advice based on what others listed as "fact" we would just be discussing "hearsay". this is why I don't like when people try to convince me of things they read somewhere once, which sadly happens a lot in the community.

those are some dark buds hahahah I would press all of it

yes that's it, looks like it should've been one seed that's just split. in that case most time neither seed is good, but with the case of them sharing a husk there will be one that had a better chance of developing and one that's a little less developed. with there being no chance of the already formed x chromosome splitting in two as with some other reproductive processes, with regards to a cannabis plant twins are not a genetic mutation, but rather a casual physiological phenomenon. Ok, cool got a better understanding now, thank you sir! Still haven't pulled the trigger on plant breeding, got tons to learn still as you can see!

I see, so the two pistils and two seperate ovules and each get fertilised lead to one seed forming with two plants in it? not one calyx with two seeds in? I've seen quite a few situations where one calyx has two seeds in it, poorly formed seeds, but what would be the situation here? might be a stupid question, but this is how we learn hahah

when you cull the weaker of the twin you just cut it at the base? say the stronger twin is the selected one in the end, would breeding with that one not still carry the twin gene? I would think to get rid of that trait completely you would have to get tid of both of the twins, or is the trait not that big of a concern? oh yes, something we will never have enough of is time, and sadly it waits for no one!

whooooooooo !!!! not wasting any time hahah looking good man, you got any twins in previous runs too or the just spontaneously coming out as twins now? do I see some mutant there aswell?

they're all looking amazing, you done good selection here man!!

Day 55, took a few photos. You can start to see the difference in the Zkittle phenos, so I put them as 1, 2 and 3 Zkittle 1, whole plant with light on, the bulkiest of the 3 phenos, would say the she stinks more but is a bit less resinous. normal light close up phones macro option Zkittle 2, light on whole plant, shortest and over all smalles of the 3, bit more frost, but think nr 3 is frostiest? normal light whole plant close up phones macro option phones macro option with flash Zkittle 3, light on whole plant, she's the tallest and stretchiest of the 3, but looks like slowest with bud development or she's just gona make more, smaller buds, we'll see close up phones macro option Super Lemon OG, whole plant light on, I really like the look and smell of this plant! normal light whole plant close up phones macro option Banana Hammock, whole plant light on, everything that's purple, stretched out over the whole tent whole plant normal light close up light on phones macro option, light on phones macro option, normal light add on - almost forgot a photo of the canopy Here is the veg tent. ladies potted into 20L and one 30L, one month left in here then moved over to flower tent.