Naughty.Psychonaut

Plants are looking great brother!!

Hey bud. naaaaah, no need to kill them you still getting weed from them even though the weed will have seeds, I am sure you are ok with few seeds in your buds? Other plants might be at risk too, not cause of the one making seeds, but because of what ever factor is contributing to those making the seeds. if it's pollen coming through your bug barriers then all plants are at risk, if you see nanners all plants are at risk. can never dictate where the pollen will fall. the ball sac we talking bout is 2 different things. you talking bout the "calyx" where the seed forms. I am talking bout pure male flower will throw balls, they're little pollen sacs, so I call em ball sacs, they are bunches of those nanners that haven't opened yet, this is what I am talking about - nr.1 - ball sac (pollen sac) not a sack with the K like a bag, sac means something else cause sometimes the pollen is in a tube or on a stamen or in a cup, every plants anatomy is different, but all pollen carriers have pollen sacs, kinda just refferes to where the pollen is kept inside the plant. nr.2 - the pollen sac opened and exposed the nanners, the nanners are the little banana-like looking things inside the ball sac, those nanners releasing the pollen. If you see a plant throw nanners alone it's something different than a plant that went hermie. but yeah, in your case I would try get all stray lights out, then try run a photoperiod plant. as soon as you're able to you clone the shit out of the plant to make replicas, you run that plant as a control test and if things go wrong you have replicas of the exact same phenotype to run again and again, as a control to see where you hitting problem areas. I am a good comfortable 75 to 90% sure that the issues you're having with your plants is cause it's autos. autos stress like a bitch, one tiny wrong move and they show you the finger. photo periods, even with loadshedding, would have given you much more weed and much less stress. and if you hit a wall, photoperiods can be turned around right before their grave. autos don't even want one hickup. I get loadshedding I still fill my tents with buds wall to wall, cause I grow photoperiods. the auto movement and the push for beginners to begin with autos cause "they're easier" is absolute bullshit. it's the same as the first time you put a new game on you wana play on expert mode. you'll see, run a photoperiod as control plant - it'll help you identify problems in your tent + you'll get WAY more weed + photos are way more forgiving allowing for more mistakes or environment that's not dialed in.

bunch of local breeders on instagram doing some craaaaaaaaazy stuff too, keep an eye on that thread Igrowdagga got going, he is growing out some local

that's very true, genetics play a huge roll. with photoperiods you can run a clone again and again to see if you can get different results, but the one and done thing with autos you will never really know unless you know how stable the genetic is. I think most of the seed banks that "breed their own" seeds that have many different strains they are calling their own that we have all seen everywhere before. eg. local SeedBankX will have an auto girl scout cookie for sale in their packaging, but they did not actually breed that genetic, cause we all know it to be something that already exists. They also can't open a pack of Ripper seeds and throw the seeds into a pack with their name on it and call it their own, infact they will loose money also as these seeds are relatively cheaper than the legit stuff from the reputed breeders such as Ripper, Inhouse, Compound, Square1, Riot. a lot of the US guys got the legit shit. these local big time seed bank guys with bulk bulk sales and ALL the strains make F1's or just do small pheno hunts, select the winner and BX it and sell those seeds for cheap, at least it's better than F1's, but a lot of times they kinda just "pollen chuck" and hope for the best. no way you can do legit work on that scale so quick, plus the names give it away. our local master breeder here is Totemic, look at is work, you'll see new strain names cause it's his own crosses and he works one or two strains at a time till he feels good about it, not 100 strains all at once and just one pollen chuck and done. I've grown out some biltong and buds photoperiods under the sun, their setup us a good example. Just before I started growing indoor. Phenos didn't look anything alike. was just some average weed, not even good weed. grew about 10 different seeds of the same strain before I gave up on digging for a good pheno. don't get me wrong, some guy somewhere got a pack of BnB and he got a winner pheno, probably a few people, but those guys got lucky.

aaaaah brother I am sorry to hear that. at least you still yielding and gona have some smoke to enjoy yeah, now it's about narrowing down the possibilities of what could lead to this. do you see nanners or just seeds? a plant wont go directly to making seeds from stress, needs pollen to start that process, hemie will throw ball sacs like males, those ball sacs are nanners that haven't opened. if you don't see any signs of hermie then the pollen is coming from somewhere else. remember tents with negative pressure suck dust in, so if any stray pollen is in the air or on you or your clothes when going into the then you could knock up indoor plants. - when your tent is closed and the sides suck in =negative pressure. people combat this by closing all passive intakes and running the same size inline fan into the tent as going out to keep a possitive pressure, but then you gotta filter the air intake with a carbon filter as pollen still gets through normal air filters. I am glad you mention the L/HST, because any kinda stress is 10 fold on a auto, just cause you see or hear of one guy stressing an auto and it doesn't make seeds doesn't mean that will be in all cases. like the dude with the auto that showed you he trained his so yours should be fine, that's just not the way the plants work. the general consensus on autos - to get the best out of them you don't stress them- so a double negative here is that potentially if that dude didn't stress his he might have had even better results, and the other being what I mentioned before about the exception doesn't make the rule, the guy who stresses his and gets away with it is an exception, doesn't mean all autos will be fine with the same treatment. if you see hermie/nanner signs and it's confined to one branch or bud or area of the plant = stray light if you see hermie/nanner signs all over the plant it's light intensity, usually it'll be more at the top sites. in both situations it could also be something else. the reason a plant will try to revert in order to reproduce is because it feels threatened enough to have to forcefully make more of itself to carry on it's lineage. this could be rootzone related problems, a plants rhizosphere is like the gut of a human, when talking human microbiome it refers to your gut health, when talking plant microbiome you talking rootzone, if the microbiome is out of balance, meaning PH is off for too long or EC is way out you may cause a plant to hermie that way. rootburn during flower caused by salt build up will lead to nutrient lockout and cause this too... so many things to look at and tick off, but luckily now you already got stray lights sorted out.

Awesome! I had a chat with him, wanted to get in on those, but I am backlogged and will only get to the seeds by end of the year and that's not gona work with his time frame. Will reach out to him again once I got space, by then there will probably be something new on the scene. Goodluck with the grow brother hope you get a keeper or two!

Only a pleasure bud hahah yeah people really don't mention it often enough, but don't stress too much, it's like when you're a kid and your parents tell you not to go swimming in the rain or you'll get sick, but then you do it anyway and you don't get sick. this is when the old saying of "the exception doesn't make the rule" comes into play, cause it sure does increase your chances. just cause you didn't get sick that one time doesn't mean you'll never get sick, if you keep doing it, it will get you. I may be mistaken here, but I think in a lot of cases with plants making nanners cause of stress the pollen will be less and less viable, but will still knock up the plant. seeds will be much less, a lot of times the plant just starts forming the seed shell so it's a bunch of soft green seeds (which can be more of a headache than fully formed seeds) some seeds will form but will be duds and then there will be some seeds that are fully viable all depending on the genetics, how stable the female is and at what point did what take place all that stuff. I have heard of guys plucking nanners with twiesers as soon as they see them, but then you gotta narrow down why the plant is making them.

Yeah, autos are much less light cycle dependant, but just keep in mind a light cycle is something different than stray light. a Stray light wont be enough to make the plant think it's lights on mode and rather cause stress on one spot. You are right a lot of things can cause a plant to hermie, but you'll notice if a plant is somewhere between mid to late flower and it's a - it's only this one bud that's making nanners - situation it's most likely stray light hitting that spot. if you got more than one fem plant in a tent and one is throwing nanners and it's on all buds it's something else. plants even do this when everything is 100% but just left a little too long. the important part is to reduce the chances of anything going wrong, since we can't pin point exactly what and where things will go wrong we just reduce the chances of it going wrong. with the light cycle thing, the Rederalis trait that we look at as "auto", comes from a gene pool found in Russia. They have looong winter there and extremely short days during winter and besides that when the sun shines it's cloudy so very little sun light hits any part of the eastern European countries, this is what made the plant over generations adapt to the flower mode right from the start no veg time trait, cause it's the long summer days and clear sunny skies we make use of to veg and when winter hits we flower, in Russia their summer is like our winter, so the cannabis plant never got to veg there and adapted to it. If you take that into consideration and look at an indoor setup it would make sense that less light and shorter light cycles and colder temps will make autos perform better, but then again they are all hybrids and a lot of people have tried all kinds of ways with autos, it seems somewhere between 18/6 and 12/12 is best as that's what the bigger part of the species is familiar with.

Looking good bro just wana give a quick heads up, you have probably heard of "pin holes" in your tent or "light leaks" - we talk about a hole in the material of your tent the size of a *pinhead, the amount of light that can come through that pin hole is enough to make your females go hermie. Usually on cheap tents the zips cause light leak or theres no inner flaps to cover the zips and that can be a big problem come flowering time. The reason I bring this up is, I see you got your plugs inside your tent. I see the multiplug got a little red light on it and the plug timer also got a little light on it. Not sure if you thought about this already, maybe I am a little late, but you either need to open the plug and remove the soldering on the tiny LED inside the plug, or you can try put electrical tape over it and just check up every now and then that it's still on there. During darkness you want complete blackout darkness, stray lights can give a big headache have you thinking it's genetics related or you caused the problem or wondering why there is seeds on your indoor plants. this is one people don't mention nearly enough.

wow how did I miss this herbcannasseur420 working with some absolute fire!! bound to be something real nice you got here! I remember he was asking for test growers in April, is this part of that same project or something different?

Just to clear up, the scientist type tinkering with his craft does not mean buying the cheapest bag of soil and trying his luck, that's just being lazy and calling it an experiment as an excuse. We don't pick apples from the citrus tree the exact same way we don't use azalea and hydrangea care products on cannabis plants. No "new frontier" information is going to come from someone buying already composed soil or products, as we all know each plant species demand their own specific kinda growing media, even within one genus like cannabis slight changes is needed. a tinkering scientist will be making his own soil, cause they're usually aware of the horrors of buying, well basically anything from the commercial nursery. experiment doesn't mean hitting google with a quick search and running to the commercial nursery for the cheapest product with that stuff in it. that's being lazy and wanting the quick fix. the more experienced you become as a grower the less time you spend running back and forth to the nursery or any grow shop for that matter. that's why we see the whole industry shift to biological control, living inputs. most nutrients your plants need is already in your kitchen and in the yard around your house

oh wait, you mean the leaves will make nice mulch?

lol it's just normal hay stalks that I use for the mushrooms. would have liked to use barley, but didn't have on hand

Ayy welcome welcome, hope you need someone to consume your research, always got empty jars for more weed Show us what you got going on Does your place of work also grow cannabis or am I misunderstanding that part?

I know the other Evan with the lights got a nice way to keep things dry under the canopy yet topsoil stays moist. he got some kind of plastic over the top of the pot. not sure right now if he grows synthetic or organic, but it'll benefit both situations. Oh hell yeah, good on picking up on that bro, that's the thing with auto watering systems and why I haven't gone down that route - It's the same as with most "weed knowledge" and I found a perfect picture on instagram the other day to describe it - we all went through this but we can replace the first and last picture with "watering by hand" and the one in the middle a guy ranting on about how a auto watering system is the best. Majority of growers start off watering by hand, then get to a point where auto watering systems will help them understand how media moisture works, then you hear professionals at the peak of their game talk about the "small private gardens", behind every big time guru is a private small garden grower that moves in silence. all the "new frontier" bits of information and methodology comes from a crazy scientist grower with no friends hardly every goes out and just tinkers with his craft day in and day out. those guys are the fuel to the fire we all gathering to catch some warmth from and they all water by hand. I also feel there's more authenticity to the bond formed between man and plant when watering by hand. anyway, joint almost finished so I'll jump back to the important bits. Yeah, auto systems work best when running one phenotype - clones of one mother. out of the random% of people that swing away from hand watering right from the start will get their motivation from synthetic growers. though these days I also see most auto watering growers letting go of their auto systems. not sure if they reached the next step in their journey or of they never got it right, but as of recent times, since no till living soil became the new focus, people have been using just clean water in the auto systems and it seems to work like a bomb. but then like you said, how do you manage when growing different phenos with different needs? I guess with synthetics in the res you can't cause of the fact that the feed goes with the water, but with organics the feed is already in the soil and you just giving clean water, the plants "self regulate" - take what they need and leave what they don't - in the soil. so you can grow different phenos. organics really just making everything easier for yeeeeeeears people wanted to pump organics through the auto system complaining organics is shit cause of this and that reason, but it's because people spend their time and money listening to retail floor staff that sell products, but doesn't even know 50% of the product they have in the shop. we forget where those people are and why they are there. I ask "where do you keep the aminos" not "would you please try your best to make up some randy shit trying to explain the depths of amino acids to me so your supervisor can see you talking to customers" and if I stand there listening to a guy explain to me how synthetics and organics are the same then that's my own lack of understanding will never forget how asking questions in the grow shop had one employee call the next employee call the next employee till the final boss master level employee came and still didn't even understand half of what I was saying

damn more than half a year, a lot has changed... since building my own soil and moving away from bottled nutes things have been looking different. got a small batch of 5 different phenos of the Strawberry Sugarcookie by our local master @Totemic will be cloning them all, looking for the best out the bunch, after this gona dig to find a good male to knock up a lady with. time to start crossing, also got sts long time ago to do some reversing, gotta pull my socks up and get busy! plant is about 30 to 45cm high and throwing leaves bigger than my hand. one finger one one of the girls leaves made a duck foot, not the whole leaf, just one finger bottom left finger

Harvested, trimmed and weighed. No smoke report yet will be running all these again, not happy with my trip up right before the finish line. Grape Diamonds Ethos Genetics DaggaFarmacy cut, terrible expression due to my fuckup so not best representation of this pheno. will try again. Heavy grape terps coming through still, straight grape no other smells, love it! 90g buds in jars about 15g popcorn along with the sugar leaves in the hashbags. Platinum Silk Inhouse genetics cut from a friend, bud in the photo is the polyploid mentioned earlier. same story, not satisfied with expression. will try again, fun thing about photos you can run that exact pheno again. Chem terps, kinda gross how much like actual glue this shit smells, sticks to your fingers all day gona be a hard hitter. 88g in jars and also about 15g popcorns. chek the alien bud lol Peanutbutter Breath ThugPug Genetics DaggaFarmacy cut. This is a keeper, anyone getting clones from DF do yourself a favour and try their PBB. haven't smoked it yet and can already tell it's a keeper. It's got ALL the terps, it just smells like straight up DANK weed. Got savoury notes, fruity notes, gassy/chem notes.... really hard to describe this deep rich terp that makes me high just smelling it. smaller yielder, but makes up in terps 75g buds in jars and no pop corns The winner for this round - Garlic Sherbet Inhouse Genetics cut from a friend. Name makes the terp clear, candy garlic and it's very clear hahahah stink up your whole house offensive smell but you wana keep smelling it! She was the smallest plant of the bunch with only about 5 main colas, but she made some heavy rock solid buds. had I vegged her for longer and given her more space she will knock the PBB yield way out the park, cause with only 5 main colas she gave me 68g, no popcorns. Group photo Next round is in Forbidos Inhouse Genetics Dagga Farmacy cut. Forbidden Fruits x Dosidos. tent is on 18/6 till she fills the space then flip. 1 plant 60L pot. first time I do avo tech cause I got worms, spring tails and isopods moving around and I believe the pot is big enough to play around like this. Soil treated over a long period of time with all kinds of SST, LABs, FPJ and AACT. mixed with my own worm castings and jamies elemental blend that's it for now blessed week for all, smoking more helps to stay warm

Just note - the most important roots sit right under the surface of the topsoil, the "feeder roots" as they are called do most of the nutrient uptake and should be more active in a cultivation setup for production purposes, roots that go downward are "drinker roots", plants will still grow but nutrient uptake is less. for synthetic growers it's advised to keep the whole soil media moist at all times, it dries much much faster than soil and if you got an active plant you'll have to water a lot more frequent than organic growers, but to avoid salt build up from residual unused nutrients drying up and turning back to salt around the roots. (salt build up = root burn) you need runoff to flow away when feeding synthetics cause everytime you feed the old nutrients should be flushed out and replaced with new. not sure how the bottom feeding works with this, cause it's kinda how the ebb n flow setups work, flood and drain.... but the thing there is that it drains, the plants soak up what they can and the rest gets drained, it doesn't stand in it. if you look at the professionals who grow with salt in rockwool cubes you'll see they cover that cube as much as possible to keep it from drying out at all. only the bottoms of the cubes are exposed to do the soaking up and then the rest drains away. I know mr.Third Evan the master grows with salt, maybe he can confirm this or tell me how far off I am. either way I know that a big factor to using synthetics is auto drip and watering systems that'll go rancid with organics, but auto watering system will make it that much easier to avhieve perfect moisture levels. organic media dries out slower than hydro media, but for organic growers it's a must to not let the topsoil dry out at all, so we mulch and cover crop and what not, cause the most important part of the plants rhizosphere is the finer feeder roots. that's where all the action is, we topdress and most living organisms thrive there cause of all the organic material and the desired balance between oxygen and moisture, and because oxygen is just as important to the roots as water we can't saturate the media each time or it'll sit in stagnant water, suffocate and cause other root problems. so what we do it water juuust enough to actually keep just the top soil moist, (almost the same way a drip irrigation system works for synthetic setups) what amount of water goes to the bottom of the pot is enough for the drinker roots. and this way we don't flush any life out of the soil.

I think most important part of breeding with autos is knowing how stable the parents are. just remember F1 = highest number of recessive genetics. F2 = fewer recessive genetics F3 = even fewer recessive genetics It's only really when reaching F5 where you lock in traits, or you gotta select the chosen one and BX it to lock traits. recessive genetics can come from anywhere up the lineage, could be parents of the parents' parents genetics coming through here. The parents, where they stable or also just F1's? breeding with F1's is almost the same as pollen chucking cause you not really working with genetics that's been "worked" or "stabilised" so the genetic pool you unlock is vast.

What's goooood bud, hope and trust all is well on your side For autos going through the HST you threw at them you got great results! Generally the rule of thumb with autos is "just add water" and it's not too literal, I mean they do need nutes, but the notion goes - you want to cause them as little stress as absolute possible. in most cases even LST will be too much for an auto to handle, things like topping and training is considered fringe practice when talking about autos. for the most part, you don't wana touch them. you don't wana defoliate them, you don't wana top them. you don't even wana repot them, that can also be too much stress for them. so going by the "just add water" thing, it's best to never have fluctuations in the soil, this will happen much easier when you're relying on yourself to understand how synthetic nutrients work. there is a point of growing you reach where you understand soil so well that you really do only have to add water, those will be your best growing conditions (talking rhizosphere) and it will be the safest bet for growing autos as everything is "pre-balanced" you literally just give clean water. don't get me wrong, some dudes achieve MAGIC results with synthetic bottled nutes, they have their place, but seeing as you starting out you in a very good position to decide to "go with" one thing or "go with" the other thing. in the long run, it's just a matter of time before synthetic nutes will dwindle and become obsolete, some huge movements being made in the world of organic growing. the misconception based around plants growing faster with synthetic nutes is based on the fact that people actually follow recommendations on the bottles instead, the marketing sector has mislead the masses into synthetics, cause there's a higher profit margin on these products than with organics, organics when done right will keep you away from the grow shops. and trust me, the grow shop is the very last place you wana go for growing guidance, those guys are there to sell a product and up their KPA within the company, they don't give a hoot about you aslong as you come back to buy more products. Anyway, as I was saying, you did great here brother. Probably got better results from that auto than I would have. I've never tried autos, cause of the -no time to forgive mistakes- characteristic all autos come with. I still run into hickups with each grow I do. Learning every day still. Just another note, those plants got stunted at some point right, and a stunted plant will obviously not be taking up nutrients the same way as a raging prolific plant. so maybe rethink the way you're cross referencing and approaching the next grow. the leaf necrosis you see there might be from root stress. nutrient lock out from not being able to use the nutes you gave it, cause it was spending time standing still from the HST you put it through. What may have saved you is that you planted directly into your final pots, so root space was more than abundant, but as the knife cuts both ways, it's also very easy to get the watering wrong when dealing with any small plant and big pot. even with photoperiods, most new growers over water their plants when starting out. the moisture levels and the watering technique for organic growers and synthetic growers also differ a bunch, but in both situations it becomes harder when it's a bigger pot and smaller plant. so with autos it becomes that much harder as they don't allow any slip ups. so yeah bud, pat yourself on the back, you did great here! If you going same route next grow one thing I would suggest is leave the training completely. those photos of Mr.Canuk training, not sure if it's autos, but if it was he probably mentioned that autos shouldn't be trained but he is taking chances, I would argue that it's based on his skill and experience level. that man knows exactly what's going on in his soil, I've probably watched all his videos and he also knows exactly what to do and when and if he runs into problems it's a matter of hours before it's resolved. If you're at the level of being one step ahead of the plants then you can take the chance to train an auto, but I wouldn't recommend it for beginners. Honestly I wouldn't recommend autos at all for beginners, you can't clone them either. so it's a one and done, what's the fun in that? also a bit counter-intuitive if LST/HST is meant to increase yield, but try it on an auto it'll cut your already smaller yield into half or even worse you only yield like 20g best way to get the most out of an auto is no training, no stress at all and then still you wont be able to achieve the yield of a photoperiod. one should never expect photoperiod results from an auto not even if everythings 100%

Yeyeyee that's the thing, and then also when you get into lab testing, most tests will use somewhere between less than 0.1g up to 0.5g for taking a reading, but the next becomes very obvious if you take any 0.5g part of the plant, you not getting a good sample. so as with all things run through proper lab testing and sequencing you need to do a field test, you look at the plant as "a field", you need to collect as much variety out of "the field" to capture all data efficiently, run the tests and cross reference them and then find an average. so what you end up doing is taking a bud sample from the top buds, middle buds and lower buds. they all get tested seperately and for extra measure another seperate test with all 3 samples mixed. the same as with humans, considering your point on how our ecs fluctuate, a plant is also a living thing, it's not made on a production line where all 100 is the exact same, it's not an object that comes out the machine the same every time, as I was saying same as with humans the same with plants, they're living things and because of that you'll have situations where the top buds are of way better quality than the lowers and all that stuff, bringing us back to why you test multiple samples in a lab an not just one. when we smoke, that's not what we do though, we don't take little bits from all over the plant and smoke it all together, we take one bud and break it up and smoke it, that bud coming from the same plant as the bud next to it will have different lab results... cause it's a plant. You can even go finer detail and look at one bud alone, inside the bud the resin will look different than the resin on the outside, cause it's basically never been exposed to direct sunlight and once a plant isn't growing anymore and UV from the sun hits your trichomes it degrades them, usually also the first trichomes to ripen and the trichomes inside the bud will be more "fresh" and "prime". so obviously, different compounds inside them.

the same person smoking the exact same flower at different times of the same day will feel different each time they smoke it. that should be enough info

hehehee that's why AK47 was saying what he said, he was commenting on me saying this in the previous message, but yeah true is true hey Even with all that said, harvesting indica at "peak" harvest or sativa at "peak" harvest time does not mean the sativa is day time smoke and indica night time smoke at all. That's where the misconception stems from, but it's all a bit backwards. Father of taxonomy, Carl Linnaeus, dubbed the term "Sativa" to the first Cannabis species found, because it means "Cultivated" and the cannabis plant, at the time, was highly cultivated for it's industrial uses such as hemp fiber, paper, medicine and a whole lot of other things. Indica means "from India", it was dubbed the name cause this variety of the same cannabis plant was found growing basically on the other side of the world with a whole different growth structure and grow cycle and wasn't used for industrial uses, so typically they had to call it something else - Indica was born. Ruderalis means "from Russia". The day time night time smoke is based purely off misconception created by false marketing. You only look at it like that when one does not understand trichomes. We have a window of time to play in, when you see buds are matured size and minimal white pistils (if you see white pistils is means bud is still growing, when less than around 10% of pistils are white the buds stop developing) you can start looking at trichomes once the buds stop developing. This gives you a window of time, not lunar time as in one day or one week or one month, we talk about time here the way the plant see it, so we need to learn how to speak plant. Only way is go to the plant every day and have a look at what the trichomes say. So what is "peak" harvet? I put it in quotes cause it's not a real thing. The deeper you get into it, you realise you harvest when you wana. Some like 10% amber, 70% milky and 20% clear, some like 80% amber, 10% milky and 10% clear. But in actual fact, the plant does not die in an instant when you chop them, for about a week or two theres still "movement" inside the plant after harvest. so if you see what you like today and then harvest, by the time you smoke the bud the trichomes will all look different. sooo......????? That's more of an answer than anything, but if it still doesn't make sense, look at it like this. Every genetic is different, when we talk trichomes we don't mean a chair that is a one simple object *mass produced on a production line in a factory, trichomes are like individual living things. Some have longer stalks some are shorter, some have thicker walls some have thinner, sommer are glass-like in texture some are more plastic-like, some have more resin inside, some have higher concentrations of different compounds inside their resin... they're all different. that's why you get stickier plants, granular resin plants, plants that dump resin, plants that don't look resinous but is potent as fuck, plants that are covered in trichomes that don't make you high at all.... all this comes down to the trichomes and what they look like under the microscope, they mature in different ways and at different rates and speeds. so yeah, that should say more than enough. for example (just an example, not a true thing) the trichomes on your cheese plant will stay clear till week 7 and then over night they all go milky in a couple of hours. and then right next to it you got SourLemon that's been throwing milky trichomes long before buds are finished forming, but no ambers. and then after all this, take those two phenos and just to razzle dazzle yall, do the same thing in someone elses environment/setup you may get different results again. so yeah, the indica and sativa stuff is just info for the guys starting out. I would suggest listening to or reading up on as much of Frenchy Cannoli's information about bubble hash making that you possibly can. That man will help anyone to understand a trichome better than they can understand their own dick.

Same as all other compounds with all other gene pools, thvc will differ in each plant too. And then also same as with all lab tests for basically everything in the world that humans consume, a sample is tested and a number is given - that does not mean the sample you sit with gets that same lab result. Even with compounds mainly focussed on like thc we still bud test a sample of the yield, could be a clone of the same plant and thc% may differ and it's all based on plant geoplasticity and environmental factors. If what the breeders described was ever true why do we still test our buds? If the description say so it MUST be so, so why do we still test our buds for thc% if it's already mentioned on the pack? I think it's cause we all kinda know the truth, we just have wishful thinking when reading a breeders description.

what makes you want those seeds specifically? I can 100% guarentee you'll find something way better locally. 7% thc is on the very very low side, so at its most potent, how potent can it really be? Local genetics testing 15 - 20% thc, but theres lower stuff too around 7% if that's what you going for. Besides that, the descriptions breeders give are all selling points and marketing tactics based on the selected breeders cut. The sativa/indica only indicates grow style and nothing else - short or tall plant, thick or narrow leaves, long or short flower time - no cerebral high no body high type stuff, that's nonsense. All that will depend on the state of the trichomes when harvesting - early harvest will be more cerebral high get your mind going sometimes leading to anxiety and late harvest will make you feel sedated like a body high and you feel weak and tired. Another thing I can 100% guarentee you is that the seeds need to be extremely well stabilized and then still with the most stabilized F5 and higher gene pools still give you phenotypical variation. That's why when you pop a bag of 10 seeds from one strain you get 10 different plants. That's why we phenohunt. It's a luck of the draw game, next thing to look at is - say you got a clone of the breeders cut, your grow setup, techniques and approach need to be so fine tuned and consistent to get that plant to express exactly the way the breeder described it, more often than not if we use generic soils and nutes and do the bare minimum in the way of technique then we can grow the same clone of the same pheno and get different expressions every time, because conditions fluctuate. I got many plants here, looking at indoor if I harvest during summer I get green plants and if I harvest during winter I get purple plants. Not only does the anthocyanin production increase during colder months, there is a whole different end product, the taste of the bud changes and the overall expression of the plant changes. Clear indication that environment impacts outcome. I prefer green buds as they taste better and because I like the taste better I feel higher, cause of the entourage effect and the fact that it's not only the psychoactive properties of the thc that gets you high. That's why extract makes you high for 30min and flower makes you high for several hours, the trichomeless plant material does something too. I would suggest if you want something good look at what the hype strains are at the moment you wana buy, see if you can get a clone first. If you really neeeed to buy a seed, a good rule is the cheaper the seed the more you need to buy and "dig through" like a small phenohunt to get the keeper. Generally the more you spend the fewer seeds you gotta pop to find a keeper. With that said the local guys got extremely crazy fire genetics for crazy good prices so you can buy a butt load and be sure you gona find a winner.