Naughty.Psychonaut

I would like to highlight again what I said before as you are probably aware that mushrooms need a form of "shock treatment" to signal they need to start making fruit bodies. Now, light surely isn't a primary trigger for primordium formation, but using the factor of going from dark to light aids in the shock treatment... if you're saying there is no difference in total darkness and a light source to mushrooms..... I just wouldn't say that, it's absurd. ofcourse mushrooms sense light. again, let me highlight this,

hmm...... seems very strange then that I would get the results I did with the tests I did. I don't even wana go into "this research said this" and "that research said that". I want proof. care to show me some experiments you've done to back what you're saying? and then maybe coming by my setup and show me how to get the right results?

Amazing, as always!!! this bit got me curious as we would all love to have plants constantly praying, this is what I would like to get at. correct me if I am wrong, but you're growing in FF premium classic and using biobizz? if you see your girls aren't praying away in their religious ways, before noticing any other problems such as discoloration or burnt tips, what's usually the first thing you think of? and what do you do in those cases?

update 6 days later they coming along nicely Sour Lemon OG, girls a bit thirsty Banana Hammock Zkittle #1 Zkittle #2 Zkittle #3

@Bos thanks man! if you're interested in oysters on a small scale I can give you few easy steps to follow and you can get some hay colonised with mycelium from a mushroom bought at the shop. Oysters such as grey, white, pink, yellow, blue oysters work best for this. Shiitake, Lion's mane, Shimeji and even King Oyster and the White button and Portabello mushrooms need a bit more intensive care. if you talking bout active ones, can walk you through easiest method for small scale with those too @Adansonia digitata thank you thank you! hahah yeah I've offered up my weekends long time ago, found myself with a whole lot of free time. I do thorough clean out on sunday, keeping both rooms as clean as I can. during the week I just pop by every second day for an hour or two. Do harvests, small clean ups, check ups. Not too much effort thanks to the Sonoff. the marketing is more time consuming right now the dark period helps a bunch when introducing fruiting conditions, the sudden light acts as another shock mechanizm to get the mycelium to fruit. resulting in earlier pin sets. we've actually done a few tests with few strains. let the bag sit in the fruiting room and one next to it with a black bag over. colonising times was even quicker, so quicker colonise and fruits. just think about biomimicary, where do most mycelium grow best? below the surface. even though you get mycelium on the surface sometimes, you might not need the dark for colonising, but it sure helps. and gives you another angle to come at it when comes time to fruit. @Prom hahahah yeah they can teach one a lesson real quick!!! the oysters you don't even need to be that sterile with, I do open air inoculation and cold lime treatment to get my substrate "sterile". Haven't had 1 single spot of contamination in over 100kg of treated substrate. with the active shroomies it's a bit of a different story. still easy, but you have to get a few things in place before just going at it all willy nilly. I have a monotub going every other month

What is up good people, here is a little something I have been busy with the last few months that I think some of you might like... a Mushroom Farm, well getting there hahah This is as primitive as things get, I plan to make a few bucks out the place to cover the expenses and invest to get something proper going. Building the same setup with Isoboards is what I am going for, already got quotes to get some frames welded for hanging and making use of vertical space as I have plenty. Just waiting for a cash flow. I teamed up with a guy who's doing the marketing, I am doing all of the growing. Any questions welcome. Incubation "room". Dimentions: W2mxL3mxH3m. Wood frame to hold thick black plastic to create complete dark room. 1/3rd of the wall on the left is covered with 90% black shade net folded double so the the room can breathe, but let minimal light in. inside incubation, with few colonising Hard to get a good pic, but here is the grow room. W3mxL5mxH3m. wood frame to hold a UV protected opaque plastic. door open. RH on 98% The Reservoir. I got a 70L thick black tote bin with a constant water level, pumping ultrasonic fog into my grow room. you can see the whaft it pumps out Inside the Res, I got a M6 fogger, they sent me the wrong floater and I had to improvise with a pool noodle, works 100%. I got a water line pumping water into the res (visible in photo above) with a floater valve to shut it off and keep it from running over. got a 20cm inline fan system running, if I put the fogger off it sucks the 98%RH down to 40% in 10min. got a piece of the black shade net over the mouth of the fan to keep spores from building up inside the fan, gets cleaned weekly. most importan, Sonoff TH16 booooiiiii once I get the grow room going, I have to leave the fan off. put the fogger on, let it build to about 95%Rh, then I switch the fan on and leave it on. I got the fogger running on the Sonoff, when the RH drops below 90% it kicks the fogger on, once it reaches 98% it switches back off. Room never really gets wet, except for minimal droplets that form on the floor over a period of day, walls are never wet, but air stays very moist. very important. Now, some shroomies

what's up @jordz2203 I myself am very much out to support local, even made a thread a while back regarding SA cannabis brands and how to help these guys make it out here. building on what crex said, raw is a company a step above the rest. to "compete" with them, as anyone who enters the industry would have to, would be like a David and Goliath situation. and I want to highlight the big meaning behind what I just said, and that is that it is completely possible!!! a thing to keep in mind though, is that Josh Kesselman, the founder of raw papers didn't want to create a brand or big name, he wasn't motivated by taking over the market and making big money. he traveled the world and did research on papers trying to find what works best. at the moment they have people in Alcoy, Spain, producing their papers from trees that only grow there, gum from trees, and a whole bunch of science behind the diamond pattern on their papers that help it burn even. RAW is really on another level by now, there really isn't any competition for them, because the other guys who make the same papers as them end up loosing money because the process is so expensive and nothing sells as good. if you wanted to produce rolling papers and have the whole world buy them, just make papers forget about quality and focus on the business end, your papers will sell, but even then you competing with rizla and all the others. if you wana go for making a big name/brand for yourself, I wouldn't enter the market with rolling papers on my mind. I would look at the market, what's doing well, what are people looking for right now? if you can brand something you need the products to flow as soon as you get your name on it to help your advertising. start there, create the name, and outshine the rest. remember, there's already a local market you gona have to compete with also

cleaned the tent a bit, cleared out, got some new trays and stands to create space between the material pots and floor, also added a Banana Hammock clone I took from my previous grow, will attach a bud shot with the pic of the clone. Ethos Genetics did some defo as they had some necrotic leaves close to repot the 4 on the outsides into 30L with blurp on blurp off close ups: Sour Lemon OG Zkittle #1 Zkittle #2 Zkittle #3 Banana Hammock buds of the banana hammock

hahahah got many teleportation devices here brother !! but do take note about the EC pen, this will take a lot of guessing out of the game when it comes to soil being too hot. and to cool it down, you flush the soil and keep flushing till you hit the plants desired EC. in your case, if you plant in the soil now and the plant tells you it's too "hot", flush her. only thing that's important then is to make sure you not flushing with water with the wrong ph, in organic soil ph should be between 5.5 and 6.5 hopefully there was just a bad batch and you getting nice soil

@Weskush brobeans, what area you in? I can possibly swing by and show you how to use a EC pen, and you could possibly invest in it later. once you get the soil, I'll come check it how "hot" it is for you and how to mend the problem. if it's too hot, you can just flush it with water. no prob. if you wana you can pm me where you at, I'm in the winelands area. yeah, I have seen quite a few of the videos those guys put up checked it out again now, but not sure why it would motivate you to do cover crop. I see the guy also mention the "no till" in that tiny bed. I did a horticulture / permaculture internship at Babylonstoren Gardens in Franschoek a while ago, learned all about no till there. Tilling a garden before planting in the soil is just to get some living soil to the top layer where the roots will be in the first while of any plants life. The big idea behind "no till" is to not disturb the microbiological activity, so you end up leaving the top layer where it is and you end up with a almost inert homogeneous top layer of soil. This is where mulching or cover cropping becomes important. This helps keep a mycorrhizal activity in the top layer of soil and this is what helps you keep a healthy biosphere. it also helps so the sun and wind doesn't suck the top layer dry, so helps with moisture and if soil becomes negatively charged from basically dying out, water will flow over it and it won't upsorb water anymore, so cover crops will assist in those ways, but it only really helps if you doing a garden bed. where there is actually a good biosphere already. in a pot with annual plants you can literally grow in complete inert medium with only salt/sulphate based nutrients and you'll be fine. cause the plant will only really live a few months and in that time he just wants his nutes. in the case of growing in organic living soils I can see the logic behind a healthy biosphere, cause it helps keep the mycorrhizal activity in check ans this helps for a good symbiotic relationship between your roots and microbes, ultimately helping in better nutrient uptake.

I find the best way cover crops can be used in a pot is letting the plant grow to an acceptable size before adding a new layer of soil with some cover crop mixed in. if you plant cover crops around a big already dominating plant, they might not grow as nice, but rather to have the actual thing you wana grow to be dominating than the cover crops. this is why a new top layer of soil. alternatively, there is no companionship, because it's a pot you're creating competition when you plant everything at the same time and the cover crops might dominate and stunt growth on what it is you're actually growing. think this is the point on not using it in a pot, but rather in a bed I haven't heard of people tilling soil in a pot at all before. maybe we got different ideas of the word. I know it as "flipping" the soil or "rotavating". which is something you shouldn't really do in a pot with annual plants growing in them. rather go fresh soil each time, dump it in the pot and there you go. unless you making your own soil... I get the whole biosphere thing you're going for, but I we've seen quite a bit of complaints about the orgasoilux being too hot already. Do you have a EC or ppm pen? Test the soil first before assuming you need to do anything fancy to it, I am currently learning this the hard way brother! correct me if I am wrong, but creating a healthy biosphere is secondry to creating a better nutrient uptake for your plants? otherwise I would suggest a seperate project where you take like 33% coco 33% worm casting and 33% perlite as your base then start building a soil from there and doing all sorts of funny stuff to it to make it "alive"

update 2 girls in the back is perking up a lot, one is the Super Lemon OG which I am excited about. 2 Zkittles in front that took the worst beating just trying to get rid of those necrosed leaves overall colour looking 100 times better and I can already see a lot of growth improvement on the 2 in the back. with the flushing of the soil it got drenched and it's taking a good while for them to dry out, but once they do I will be giving 0.25ml/L of the BiobizzGrow and only 750ml to 1L per pot. one that took the worst knock second worse alright looking one and here's the Super Lemon OG

hahahah yeah sorry bro, hope you guys keeping the garden pest and disease free in all cases!

very true that hahah as I am experiencing with my grow now. even in organic situation, too much of a good thing is still too much!! I am also not saying we should completely misdiagnose our situation and just build a bug hotel and think we solved the issue. so the point you're making is that it is in best interest to know why the pests/diseases are showing up and what to do about it? I agree with this 100% hahah I fucked my ladies good with waaaaay too much biobizz and battling to get them back in good health, luckily no pests or diseases here so far!!

sorry, not sure if that's what you meant by this here... even if you plan on having a healthy garden, it doesn't always work out that way

I see what you saying. but what I meant by "if we like it or not" I kinda refer to the thing you mentioned that bugs can be attracted to even healthy plants. and we obviously always aim for a healthy garden, but nonetheless still end up with unhealthy plants. you can be top of your game and still get a bad clone / seed or just send a full happy healthy plant down the poopshoot cause you do one thing with a certain intent only to have it blow up in your face. in the name of science ofcourse, soooo kinda "if we like it or not" hahah but yeah plant health plays a drastic role in it's favourability to pests and diseases, no doubt about that. I am pretty sure that's a thing with all species, though, across the board. even with us humans

I understand exactly what you saying, but doesn't seem like @GreenGrow Garden Route had a problematic garden here... he even said there's no insects.

yeah. that's some in depth thinking before anything, the idea of an insect hotel is not to get more insects onto your plants. it is to invite predetors that help keep unwanteds away! that is the whole point. if you worried about each individual plant, you can grab a refractometer, squeeze a drop out a leaf, get a % reading of how healthy your plants is. low % they will be palatable for most unwanted critters. high % they will be unfavourable. however, adding a insect hotel to your garden will not cause more harm than good, if this is what you're trying to say. overall, an insect hotel doesn't mean you gona have more aphids in your garden, in turn you'll have more spiders who will eat aphids. (just a broad example) if you worry about inviting unwanted live ones you can carry on with organic pest deterant, such as Neem, that will not disrupt any of your gardens symbiote. all it does is increases the plants % on the refractometer and giving the plant a better chance to fight for itself. (by focussing on all those things you went into depth about) also, keeping a healthy garden, like you said. I just don't think that was a problem here hahaha I just think the dude wanted to see some live stock patrolling his plants.

nah bro, I've seen these in action, they're housed with predatory insects such as spiders and mantis dudes, they'll make extra sure there's no pests in your garden lol you not attracting unwanted insects. that's what the plants already do by themself, if we like it or not. big idea behind it is to create a symbiote and minimize the pestecides and shit we spray outdoors, that harms beneficial bugs in a lot of cases. this is a win win win mybru, just if you can't make it look real nice you gona have a lump of a sore eye in the garden, that's bout it.

hahah yea best not to have them around at all, but if you wana see some happy critters going around maybe try building an insect hotel? you heard of those? basically a pile of scraps that you pack to look nice, like a little hotel, and some small perennial flowers to attract pollinators. few ideas, you can build them small, but takes longer for the hotel to become known you can build them quite big obviously, this first big one can be seen at Babylonstoren here in Franschoek. might actually build myself one soon, but I also said this a while ago, still nothing

you got a lot of bugs there? if you don't have "food" for the beneficial bugs they wont come. the reason why some plants deter insects is cause of their smell, like the marigolds you got there they will deter beneficial bugs too, and if there is no other insects for them that's another reason for them to not pitch. they don't just come to hang around, they always looking for food. I had a big artemisia afra plant in the garden and those are well know for attracting little mites and aphids. lady bugs came in abundance and a whole bunch of other beneficial bugs.

@StickyD420 hahah thanks brother!! and thanks again for taking the time to drop some info aswell I am sitting on the edge of my seat for their reaction though!

no no, tap water is 9 when it comes out. I never give it to my plants like that. ph in the soil was 5.9 ec was 9.9 or maybe even higher, that's what caused the shit

I like this chart, I have studied it to a T and always keep it close by. It's helped me a lot, but like I said before they got flushed with rain water then gave a very very small feed and they freaked out. so I already kinda knew the problem was bigger than just a deficiency or a burn from a spray. I have quite some experience with Neem and that was definitly not neem related. maybe the neem helped shrivel up the parts of the leaves that was already damaged, that's for certain.