Naughty.Psychonaut

yes, I said this, literally in my first reply to what you said, here it is and I restated it, trying to make it clear for you the sole idea that you wana tell me data captured from an actual experiment I actually did is wrong, is taking it personal, brother............ I am not aiming to take over the market and fill up my pockets here. I am aiming to sustain my hobby of growing mushrooms on a bigger scale. If I can get a local contract to ensure my rent and other essential resources are all covered, I'll be happy and keep on growing. good luck to you in general man

got home late last night with the urge to get busy, here's what I did. repot into 30L, FF green bag, mycoroot in the soil, DE top of the soil. watered with tap water. did some hst took photos this morning blurp on. will give another week with this light for them them to settle and make some new growth then bringing in my the new light

what's good @Pandy Indeed, I do. During colonisation the mycelium will expel much less Carbon dioxide than needed to form good reproductive organs, however there will still be a build up inside the bag. Fungi breathe in Oxygen and breathe out Carbon dioxide, so fresh air is needed, just much less than when time comes to fruit. What I do, after packing bags, wipe down with alcohol, get a sterile medical needle, poke holes roughly 2.5 to 3cm apart from eachother all over the bag.

the fact that you would refute something that's already been prooved goes beyond me, you don't have to believe anything, but take note of this, learning requires the ability to not assume one already knows everything. and that based off ego and emotions, with an attitude like that you will run into a few problems in life

well besides the plenty of photos I originally posted acting as literal proof, I will try to go dig up the photos I took when we did the actual test. these tests where done exactly because of the things you're saying right now. half of the mycology community sais what you're saying. but what happens when you put it to the test? another point, we wanted to see what works for us. in our situation. conditions and all, mushroom life can be very sensetive and small environmental changes can have big impacts. so to find out what works for us we wheren't too concerned about what others say or think. we're not out to teach anyone how to do anything. we've got the info, enough of it to play around and see what gets US the best results. as we are only focussing on the oysters for the time being and obvious that this is the mushroom we're speaking of here since there's only oysters in my photos, we ran Elf, Grey and Pink oysters. The difference was most noticable with the Elf, but definitly a difference across the board. we took 10 bags of each, 5kg substrate per bag. 90g of spawn per bag. 5 Bags Elf uncovered - 24 days till 100% colonised 5 Bags Elf covered - 14 days till 100% colonisation 5 Bags Grey uncovered - 19 days till 100% colonised 5 Bags Grey covered - 15 days till 100% colonised 5 Bags Pink uncovered - 17 days till 100% colonised 5 Bags Pink covered - 15 days till 100% colonised. some of the uncovered pink oyster actually started fruiting out the top of the bag. I assume there was a hole. I have seen mushrooms even growing fruiting bodies in complete darkness, this doesn't mean mushrooms SHOULD be grown in the dark. it just means it can. we should always look to biomimicary. nature is flexible and can bear and endure strange forms of manipulation, this doesn't mean we HAVE to push those limits.

@Adansonia digitata you're saying dark room isn't needed for colonising. I know this, and if you understood what I said correctly, you would know that this is what I meant. point is, the information I gave based on my dark room isn't incorrect, as a matter of fact it is spot on. and I know it is and I don't even need to have any back and forth about it. you asked me what it's for and I told you. for someone to say information based on experiments is wrong is funny

bro, you can just show me proof of your results and my mind will be fully changed. based my setup off findings I made through the years of doing this. I definitly didn't come from nothing and set up a whole mushroom production facility, some research has been done here. and I am not talking bout reading a book on how to do this and that. research as in getting my hands dirty and doing real life experiments.

I would like to highlight again what I said before as you are probably aware that mushrooms need a form of "shock treatment" to signal they need to start making fruit bodies. Now, light surely isn't a primary trigger for primordium formation, but using the factor of going from dark to light aids in the shock treatment... if you're saying there is no difference in total darkness and a light source to mushrooms..... I just wouldn't say that, it's absurd. ofcourse mushrooms sense light. again, let me highlight this,

hmm...... seems very strange then that I would get the results I did with the tests I did. I don't even wana go into "this research said this" and "that research said that". I want proof. care to show me some experiments you've done to back what you're saying? and then maybe coming by my setup and show me how to get the right results?

Amazing, as always!!! this bit got me curious as we would all love to have plants constantly praying, this is what I would like to get at. correct me if I am wrong, but you're growing in FF premium classic and using biobizz? if you see your girls aren't praying away in their religious ways, before noticing any other problems such as discoloration or burnt tips, what's usually the first thing you think of? and what do you do in those cases?

update 6 days later they coming along nicely Sour Lemon OG, girls a bit thirsty Banana Hammock Zkittle #1 Zkittle #2 Zkittle #3

@Bos thanks man! if you're interested in oysters on a small scale I can give you few easy steps to follow and you can get some hay colonised with mycelium from a mushroom bought at the shop. Oysters such as grey, white, pink, yellow, blue oysters work best for this. Shiitake, Lion's mane, Shimeji and even King Oyster and the White button and Portabello mushrooms need a bit more intensive care. if you talking bout active ones, can walk you through easiest method for small scale with those too @Adansonia digitata thank you thank you! hahah yeah I've offered up my weekends long time ago, found myself with a whole lot of free time. I do thorough clean out on sunday, keeping both rooms as clean as I can. during the week I just pop by every second day for an hour or two. Do harvests, small clean ups, check ups. Not too much effort thanks to the Sonoff. the marketing is more time consuming right now the dark period helps a bunch when introducing fruiting conditions, the sudden light acts as another shock mechanizm to get the mycelium to fruit. resulting in earlier pin sets. we've actually done a few tests with few strains. let the bag sit in the fruiting room and one next to it with a black bag over. colonising times was even quicker, so quicker colonise and fruits. just think about biomimicary, where do most mycelium grow best? below the surface. even though you get mycelium on the surface sometimes, you might not need the dark for colonising, but it sure helps. and gives you another angle to come at it when comes time to fruit. @Prom hahahah yeah they can teach one a lesson real quick!!! the oysters you don't even need to be that sterile with, I do open air inoculation and cold lime treatment to get my substrate "sterile". Haven't had 1 single spot of contamination in over 100kg of treated substrate. with the active shroomies it's a bit of a different story. still easy, but you have to get a few things in place before just going at it all willy nilly. I have a monotub going every other month

What is up good people, here is a little something I have been busy with the last few months that I think some of you might like... a Mushroom Farm, well getting there hahah This is as primitive as things get, I plan to make a few bucks out the place to cover the expenses and invest to get something proper going. Building the same setup with Isoboards is what I am going for, already got quotes to get some frames welded for hanging and making use of vertical space as I have plenty. Just waiting for a cash flow. I teamed up with a guy who's doing the marketing, I am doing all of the growing. Any questions welcome. Incubation "room". Dimentions: W2mxL3mxH3m. Wood frame to hold thick black plastic to create complete dark room. 1/3rd of the wall on the left is covered with 90% black shade net folded double so the the room can breathe, but let minimal light in. inside incubation, with few colonising Hard to get a good pic, but here is the grow room. W3mxL5mxH3m. wood frame to hold a UV protected opaque plastic. door open. RH on 98% The Reservoir. I got a 70L thick black tote bin with a constant water level, pumping ultrasonic fog into my grow room. you can see the whaft it pumps out Inside the Res, I got a M6 fogger, they sent me the wrong floater and I had to improvise with a pool noodle, works 100%. I got a water line pumping water into the res (visible in photo above) with a floater valve to shut it off and keep it from running over. got a 20cm inline fan system running, if I put the fogger off it sucks the 98%RH down to 40% in 10min. got a piece of the black shade net over the mouth of the fan to keep spores from building up inside the fan, gets cleaned weekly. most importan, Sonoff TH16 booooiiiii once I get the grow room going, I have to leave the fan off. put the fogger on, let it build to about 95%Rh, then I switch the fan on and leave it on. I got the fogger running on the Sonoff, when the RH drops below 90% it kicks the fogger on, once it reaches 98% it switches back off. Room never really gets wet, except for minimal droplets that form on the floor over a period of day, walls are never wet, but air stays very moist. very important. Now, some shroomies

what's up @jordz2203 I myself am very much out to support local, even made a thread a while back regarding SA cannabis brands and how to help these guys make it out here. building on what crex said, raw is a company a step above the rest. to "compete" with them, as anyone who enters the industry would have to, would be like a David and Goliath situation. and I want to highlight the big meaning behind what I just said, and that is that it is completely possible!!! a thing to keep in mind though, is that Josh Kesselman, the founder of raw papers didn't want to create a brand or big name, he wasn't motivated by taking over the market and making big money. he traveled the world and did research on papers trying to find what works best. at the moment they have people in Alcoy, Spain, producing their papers from trees that only grow there, gum from trees, and a whole bunch of science behind the diamond pattern on their papers that help it burn even. RAW is really on another level by now, there really isn't any competition for them, because the other guys who make the same papers as them end up loosing money because the process is so expensive and nothing sells as good. if you wanted to produce rolling papers and have the whole world buy them, just make papers forget about quality and focus on the business end, your papers will sell, but even then you competing with rizla and all the others. if you wana go for making a big name/brand for yourself, I wouldn't enter the market with rolling papers on my mind. I would look at the market, what's doing well, what are people looking for right now? if you can brand something you need the products to flow as soon as you get your name on it to help your advertising. start there, create the name, and outshine the rest. remember, there's already a local market you gona have to compete with also

cleaned the tent a bit, cleared out, got some new trays and stands to create space between the material pots and floor, also added a Banana Hammock clone I took from my previous grow, will attach a bud shot with the pic of the clone. Ethos Genetics did some defo as they had some necrotic leaves close to repot the 4 on the outsides into 30L with blurp on blurp off close ups: Sour Lemon OG Zkittle #1 Zkittle #2 Zkittle #3 Banana Hammock buds of the banana hammock

hahahah got many teleportation devices here brother !! but do take note about the EC pen, this will take a lot of guessing out of the game when it comes to soil being too hot. and to cool it down, you flush the soil and keep flushing till you hit the plants desired EC. in your case, if you plant in the soil now and the plant tells you it's too "hot", flush her. only thing that's important then is to make sure you not flushing with water with the wrong ph, in organic soil ph should be between 5.5 and 6.5 hopefully there was just a bad batch and you getting nice soil

@Weskush brobeans, what area you in? I can possibly swing by and show you how to use a EC pen, and you could possibly invest in it later. once you get the soil, I'll come check it how "hot" it is for you and how to mend the problem. if it's too hot, you can just flush it with water. no prob. if you wana you can pm me where you at, I'm in the winelands area. yeah, I have seen quite a few of the videos those guys put up checked it out again now, but not sure why it would motivate you to do cover crop. I see the guy also mention the "no till" in that tiny bed. I did a horticulture / permaculture internship at Babylonstoren Gardens in Franschoek a while ago, learned all about no till there. Tilling a garden before planting in the soil is just to get some living soil to the top layer where the roots will be in the first while of any plants life. The big idea behind "no till" is to not disturb the microbiological activity, so you end up leaving the top layer where it is and you end up with a almost inert homogeneous top layer of soil. This is where mulching or cover cropping becomes important. This helps keep a mycorrhizal activity in the top layer of soil and this is what helps you keep a healthy biosphere. it also helps so the sun and wind doesn't suck the top layer dry, so helps with moisture and if soil becomes negatively charged from basically dying out, water will flow over it and it won't upsorb water anymore, so cover crops will assist in those ways, but it only really helps if you doing a garden bed. where there is actually a good biosphere already. in a pot with annual plants you can literally grow in complete inert medium with only salt/sulphate based nutrients and you'll be fine. cause the plant will only really live a few months and in that time he just wants his nutes. in the case of growing in organic living soils I can see the logic behind a healthy biosphere, cause it helps keep the mycorrhizal activity in check ans this helps for a good symbiotic relationship between your roots and microbes, ultimately helping in better nutrient uptake.

I find the best way cover crops can be used in a pot is letting the plant grow to an acceptable size before adding a new layer of soil with some cover crop mixed in. if you plant cover crops around a big already dominating plant, they might not grow as nice, but rather to have the actual thing you wana grow to be dominating than the cover crops. this is why a new top layer of soil. alternatively, there is no companionship, because it's a pot you're creating competition when you plant everything at the same time and the cover crops might dominate and stunt growth on what it is you're actually growing. think this is the point on not using it in a pot, but rather in a bed I haven't heard of people tilling soil in a pot at all before. maybe we got different ideas of the word. I know it as "flipping" the soil or "rotavating". which is something you shouldn't really do in a pot with annual plants growing in them. rather go fresh soil each time, dump it in the pot and there you go. unless you making your own soil... I get the whole biosphere thing you're going for, but I we've seen quite a bit of complaints about the orgasoilux being too hot already. Do you have a EC or ppm pen? Test the soil first before assuming you need to do anything fancy to it, I am currently learning this the hard way brother! correct me if I am wrong, but creating a healthy biosphere is secondry to creating a better nutrient uptake for your plants? otherwise I would suggest a seperate project where you take like 33% coco 33% worm casting and 33% perlite as your base then start building a soil from there and doing all sorts of funny stuff to it to make it "alive"

update 2 girls in the back is perking up a lot, one is the Super Lemon OG which I am excited about. 2 Zkittles in front that took the worst beating just trying to get rid of those necrosed leaves overall colour looking 100 times better and I can already see a lot of growth improvement on the 2 in the back. with the flushing of the soil it got drenched and it's taking a good while for them to dry out, but once they do I will be giving 0.25ml/L of the BiobizzGrow and only 750ml to 1L per pot. one that took the worst knock second worse alright looking one and here's the Super Lemon OG

hahahah yeah sorry bro, hope you guys keeping the garden pest and disease free in all cases!

very true that hahah as I am experiencing with my grow now. even in organic situation, too much of a good thing is still too much!! I am also not saying we should completely misdiagnose our situation and just build a bug hotel and think we solved the issue. so the point you're making is that it is in best interest to know why the pests/diseases are showing up and what to do about it? I agree with this 100% hahah I fucked my ladies good with waaaaay too much biobizz and battling to get them back in good health, luckily no pests or diseases here so far!!

sorry, not sure if that's what you meant by this here... even if you plan on having a healthy garden, it doesn't always work out that way

I see what you saying. but what I meant by "if we like it or not" I kinda refer to the thing you mentioned that bugs can be attracted to even healthy plants. and we obviously always aim for a healthy garden, but nonetheless still end up with unhealthy plants. you can be top of your game and still get a bad clone / seed or just send a full happy healthy plant down the poopshoot cause you do one thing with a certain intent only to have it blow up in your face. in the name of science ofcourse, soooo kinda "if we like it or not" hahah but yeah plant health plays a drastic role in it's favourability to pests and diseases, no doubt about that. I am pretty sure that's a thing with all species, though, across the board. even with us humans

I understand exactly what you saying, but doesn't seem like @GreenGrow Garden Route had a problematic garden here... he even said there's no insects.