Naughty.Psychonaut

cleaned the tent a bit, cleared out, got some new trays and stands to create space between the material pots and floor, also added a Banana Hammock clone I took from my previous grow, will attach a bud shot with the pic of the clone. Ethos Genetics did some defo as they had some necrotic leaves close to repot the 4 on the outsides into 30L with blurp on blurp off close ups: Sour Lemon OG Zkittle #1 Zkittle #2 Zkittle #3 Banana Hammock buds of the banana hammock

hahahah got many teleportation devices here brother !! but do take note about the EC pen, this will take a lot of guessing out of the game when it comes to soil being too hot. and to cool it down, you flush the soil and keep flushing till you hit the plants desired EC. in your case, if you plant in the soil now and the plant tells you it's too "hot", flush her. only thing that's important then is to make sure you not flushing with water with the wrong ph, in organic soil ph should be between 5.5 and 6.5 hopefully there was just a bad batch and you getting nice soil

@Weskush brobeans, what area you in? I can possibly swing by and show you how to use a EC pen, and you could possibly invest in it later. once you get the soil, I'll come check it how "hot" it is for you and how to mend the problem. if it's too hot, you can just flush it with water. no prob. if you wana you can pm me where you at, I'm in the winelands area. yeah, I have seen quite a few of the videos those guys put up checked it out again now, but not sure why it would motivate you to do cover crop. I see the guy also mention the "no till" in that tiny bed. I did a horticulture / permaculture internship at Babylonstoren Gardens in Franschoek a while ago, learned all about no till there. Tilling a garden before planting in the soil is just to get some living soil to the top layer where the roots will be in the first while of any plants life. The big idea behind "no till" is to not disturb the microbiological activity, so you end up leaving the top layer where it is and you end up with a almost inert homogeneous top layer of soil. This is where mulching or cover cropping becomes important. This helps keep a mycorrhizal activity in the top layer of soil and this is what helps you keep a healthy biosphere. it also helps so the sun and wind doesn't suck the top layer dry, so helps with moisture and if soil becomes negatively charged from basically dying out, water will flow over it and it won't upsorb water anymore, so cover crops will assist in those ways, but it only really helps if you doing a garden bed. where there is actually a good biosphere already. in a pot with annual plants you can literally grow in complete inert medium with only salt/sulphate based nutrients and you'll be fine. cause the plant will only really live a few months and in that time he just wants his nutes. in the case of growing in organic living soils I can see the logic behind a healthy biosphere, cause it helps keep the mycorrhizal activity in check ans this helps for a good symbiotic relationship between your roots and microbes, ultimately helping in better nutrient uptake.

I find the best way cover crops can be used in a pot is letting the plant grow to an acceptable size before adding a new layer of soil with some cover crop mixed in. if you plant cover crops around a big already dominating plant, they might not grow as nice, but rather to have the actual thing you wana grow to be dominating than the cover crops. this is why a new top layer of soil. alternatively, there is no companionship, because it's a pot you're creating competition when you plant everything at the same time and the cover crops might dominate and stunt growth on what it is you're actually growing. think this is the point on not using it in a pot, but rather in a bed I haven't heard of people tilling soil in a pot at all before. maybe we got different ideas of the word. I know it as "flipping" the soil or "rotavating". which is something you shouldn't really do in a pot with annual plants growing in them. rather go fresh soil each time, dump it in the pot and there you go. unless you making your own soil... I get the whole biosphere thing you're going for, but I we've seen quite a bit of complaints about the orgasoilux being too hot already. Do you have a EC or ppm pen? Test the soil first before assuming you need to do anything fancy to it, I am currently learning this the hard way brother! correct me if I am wrong, but creating a healthy biosphere is secondry to creating a better nutrient uptake for your plants? otherwise I would suggest a seperate project where you take like 33% coco 33% worm casting and 33% perlite as your base then start building a soil from there and doing all sorts of funny stuff to it to make it "alive"

update 2 girls in the back is perking up a lot, one is the Super Lemon OG which I am excited about. 2 Zkittles in front that took the worst beating just trying to get rid of those necrosed leaves overall colour looking 100 times better and I can already see a lot of growth improvement on the 2 in the back. with the flushing of the soil it got drenched and it's taking a good while for them to dry out, but once they do I will be giving 0.25ml/L of the BiobizzGrow and only 750ml to 1L per pot. one that took the worst knock second worse alright looking one and here's the Super Lemon OG

hahahah yeah sorry bro, hope you guys keeping the garden pest and disease free in all cases!

very true that hahah as I am experiencing with my grow now. even in organic situation, too much of a good thing is still too much!! I am also not saying we should completely misdiagnose our situation and just build a bug hotel and think we solved the issue. so the point you're making is that it is in best interest to know why the pests/diseases are showing up and what to do about it? I agree with this 100% hahah I fucked my ladies good with waaaaay too much biobizz and battling to get them back in good health, luckily no pests or diseases here so far!!

sorry, not sure if that's what you meant by this here... even if you plan on having a healthy garden, it doesn't always work out that way

I see what you saying. but what I meant by "if we like it or not" I kinda refer to the thing you mentioned that bugs can be attracted to even healthy plants. and we obviously always aim for a healthy garden, but nonetheless still end up with unhealthy plants. you can be top of your game and still get a bad clone / seed or just send a full happy healthy plant down the poopshoot cause you do one thing with a certain intent only to have it blow up in your face. in the name of science ofcourse, soooo kinda "if we like it or not" hahah but yeah plant health plays a drastic role in it's favourability to pests and diseases, no doubt about that. I am pretty sure that's a thing with all species, though, across the board. even with us humans

I understand exactly what you saying, but doesn't seem like @GreenGrow Garden Route had a problematic garden here... he even said there's no insects.

yeah. that's some in depth thinking before anything, the idea of an insect hotel is not to get more insects onto your plants. it is to invite predetors that help keep unwanteds away! that is the whole point. if you worried about each individual plant, you can grab a refractometer, squeeze a drop out a leaf, get a % reading of how healthy your plants is. low % they will be palatable for most unwanted critters. high % they will be unfavourable. however, adding a insect hotel to your garden will not cause more harm than good, if this is what you're trying to say. overall, an insect hotel doesn't mean you gona have more aphids in your garden, in turn you'll have more spiders who will eat aphids. (just a broad example) if you worry about inviting unwanted live ones you can carry on with organic pest deterant, such as Neem, that will not disrupt any of your gardens symbiote. all it does is increases the plants % on the refractometer and giving the plant a better chance to fight for itself. (by focussing on all those things you went into depth about) also, keeping a healthy garden, like you said. I just don't think that was a problem here hahaha I just think the dude wanted to see some live stock patrolling his plants.

nah bro, I've seen these in action, they're housed with predatory insects such as spiders and mantis dudes, they'll make extra sure there's no pests in your garden lol you not attracting unwanted insects. that's what the plants already do by themself, if we like it or not. big idea behind it is to create a symbiote and minimize the pestecides and shit we spray outdoors, that harms beneficial bugs in a lot of cases. this is a win win win mybru, just if you can't make it look real nice you gona have a lump of a sore eye in the garden, that's bout it.

hahah yea best not to have them around at all, but if you wana see some happy critters going around maybe try building an insect hotel? you heard of those? basically a pile of scraps that you pack to look nice, like a little hotel, and some small perennial flowers to attract pollinators. few ideas, you can build them small, but takes longer for the hotel to become known you can build them quite big obviously, this first big one can be seen at Babylonstoren here in Franschoek. might actually build myself one soon, but I also said this a while ago, still nothing

you got a lot of bugs there? if you don't have "food" for the beneficial bugs they wont come. the reason why some plants deter insects is cause of their smell, like the marigolds you got there they will deter beneficial bugs too, and if there is no other insects for them that's another reason for them to not pitch. they don't just come to hang around, they always looking for food. I had a big artemisia afra plant in the garden and those are well know for attracting little mites and aphids. lady bugs came in abundance and a whole bunch of other beneficial bugs.

@StickyD420 hahah thanks brother!! and thanks again for taking the time to drop some info aswell I am sitting on the edge of my seat for their reaction though!

no no, tap water is 9 when it comes out. I never give it to my plants like that. ph in the soil was 5.9 ec was 9.9 or maybe even higher, that's what caused the shit

I like this chart, I have studied it to a T and always keep it close by. It's helped me a lot, but like I said before they got flushed with rain water then gave a very very small feed and they freaked out. so I already kinda knew the problem was bigger than just a deficiency or a burn from a spray. I have quite some experience with Neem and that was definitly not neem related. maybe the neem helped shrivel up the parts of the leaves that was already damaged, that's for certain.

First, Big thanks for taking the time to share some knowledge guys! I had a bit of a wake up call yesterday on my way home from work, got home and started researching a bunch. realised I can do as much research as I want, but without complete understanding of what I need to be researching I am just shooting in the dark, ended up just sitting there thinking what I could have done that's causing this and the most obvious conclusion I could pull is that I over fed them as it's very clear earlier on in the thread. jumped onto some research about toxifications and found what I was looking for. Not a way to fix my problem, but a way to take the guessing out of the whole situation. I needed to know exactly what's going on in my soil, so... here is what I did I poured some tap water and took some readings, came out at 9.0ph and 0.0 EC. brought the ph down to 5.8 and EC is right. Took the plant with the most stress, gave it 1L of this water, got runoff and the ph was steady at 5.9, but the EC gave a reading of "OR", had to check the users manual, it meant "Out of Range" and the range goes up to 9.9. The preferred EC for a 2 month old plant in organic soil is 0.3 to 1.2... Still wasn't sure where my soils EC was, cz I got the "OR" reading. I gave another 1L and took the readings of that runoff and EC was 9.3... so coming into range, but waaaaaayyy above where it needs to be. basically too many dissolved solids, too many parts per million. This all perfectly correlates to me giving waaaaay too much nutes before. Plant was overfed, soil was clogged with nutes, plants roots where getting scortched and this is causing all sorts of chaos. cause of the abundance of nutes the plant is getting burnt while also showing signs of deficiencies cause of the lock out caused by the toxicity. Carried on flushung till I hit the 1.3 EC mark and repeated the process with all of them. Not even sure if what I did was right, but will see how they react over the next few days.

what's up good people, since they got flushed and looked much better, I went ahead and gave 0.25/L of Biobizz grow, like @StickyD420 and @Totemic suggested. opened up the tent this morning to see this... I was thinking of flushing with 6.0 ph and 0.0 ppm, get some runoff and test the ph and ppm of that. I am aiming for 5.9ph and 0.1 to 0.2 ppm, is this correct?

just a quick update. topped with some mycoroot and and DE (just in case), gave clean rain water at 1.5 of the amount of feed I will mix, so had a little run off, took it out the drip trays. waited till it was very dry.. gave 0.5ml/L Grow, 1L each plant and sprayed with neem, same night, two days later did a defoliation took the photo last night will repot soon into 30L

if you're composting an infested plant best to make sure the bugs are all dead before composting. a bit like growing fruits, if you see insects in the fruits no point in composting it, because you basically farming those insects and helping them to thrive.

brother check this out I don't have any experience with it so can't say what kinda effect it will have during flower, but maybe some of the forum members will be able to shed some more light on the product. what I do have experience with is struggling to find anything that is at all OK to spray during flower. even plain water on your flowers can cause things to go south if you don't know what you're doing. hands down, best of the best results, would be a preventative mesure. I know it's too late now, but for future just keep this in mind. You buy a bottle of BioNeem, once a week you make 1 to 2L of it and spray all your plants. (IN VEG ONLY!!!) and I mean ALL your plants. the way this porduct works is gold, it strengthens the immune system of your plants giving it the strength to fight against diseases by itself aswell as making the plant unfavourable for insects. this porduct will not harm beneficial bugs, because beneficial bugs don't eat your plants. the Neem also provides a number of trace elements and even some secondry nutrients with each application acting as a growth stimulant aswell. I haven't seen pests ot any kinda mold in my garden for ages don't know why people would go any other route.

not much to update, but thought I'd show the girls very happy to see the 2 that started stressing is getting their colour back and looking better every day. few burnt tips here and there. definitly too much N for all of the girls. I'll give them numbers as in order of apeal, they all got all the same nutes and only two reacted so strong, so might just be weaker genetics. Zkittly Zizi #1 top view structure Zkittly Zizi #2 top view her structure - growth was also stunted Zkittly Zizi #3 top view her structure - also stunted a bit here is the Sour Lemon OG her structure will probably give them another 2 weeks then put them all in 30L pots then tie them back a bit more

@Bay Seeds We having a laugh cause of a thread I made regarding the whole OG myth and that lead to a thing about naming strains, not joking bout what you doing over there man, you're cooking up a big batch of goodness there! Who's the breeder of the skunk#1 you got there? I have always heard some great things about the strain, but I don't think I ever had the pleasure of experiencing the actual thing.

fuck hahahahahah I wanted to say that!!!