Naughty.Psychonaut

organics you build a biosphere over time, using synthetic nutes in living soil is counterintuitive as the most important part of living soil is the life in it and synthetic nutrients are all harmful to microbes. plus you never flush living soil, that's the point. if you flush is you turned it somewhat inert and gotta start rebuilding, though if you gona keep using salts you gona get salt build up and root zone problems such as nutrient lockout. if you need to flush and keep flushing it's cause soil and coco/water holds onto things differently and if you flush the soil enough you might aswell be growing in coco anyway. only difference is there will be less root stress in coco with synthetics. soil + synthetics = asking for trouble and flushing will prolong the problem. it's either or with those. don't mix grow style. to the people using synthetic nutes in living soil, no bad rep no bad energy no funny business no back and forth none of that childish shit, but rather don't educate others when one doesn't really understand the whole thing clearly. we can all help eachother and I hope I don't rub anyone the wrong way, I hope to be constructive. take some time, sit back, roll a few fatties and watch this.

Yeah man I like to make that fire burn briiiiiiiiight!!!! I could go on for days and days and days about all this, but really why I feel the way I do is because I have a family member sitting at a desk at a big agricultural based firm, they deal a lot with monitoring the impact of the use of these "conventional" fertilizers. and to be honest, it's sad that when we say "conventional" we refer to synthetic fertilizers. It's alarming that there are still farmers out there who'll turn a blind eye to this. Aren't farmers supposed to be the good guys? They certainly carry that badge proudly and arrogantly. It's 2023 now, no more need to get stuck in old ways, the way forward is getting away from creating a demand for synthetic fertilizers.

When you say reservoir, do you keep mixed nutrients for longer than 24hr? like hydroponics?

BUMP

orgasoilux - every bag is a little different. I've heard reports of plants toasting in that soil, but lately it's been more positive. you can use clean water till first sign of deficiency. I wouldn't put a seedling directly in orgasoilux, I'll pop it in sphagnum or rockwool then move over to orgasoilux when they're just a bit bigger than the plants in your photos. also use the orgasoilux just as it is, don't add stuff, it's already fully loaded. only thing you can use is a healthy dose of microbes when transplanting and that's it. clean water, you'll be able to get the plant to above your knees or "ready to flower" size on just water and the nutrients in the soil. first time you feed will be before flowering so you'll wana go for Biobizz fish mix at that point and when you flip over to flower you obviously gona start giving bloom nutes, but switch the Fish out for the Grow, as the Grow has more sugar for the microbes and you want less N at that point and more P and K. when reamending the Orgasoilux I would recommend emptying all your pots into a 100L bin or pot, dump 10L of jamies elemental blend in there, work it through, water it, let it stand for about a month to two months, then you got yourself a super soil there. that elemental blend is fucking

@Stinky Pete have you seen that "kiss the soil" documentary? I wont keep hammering on, but please do a background check on the impact the sourcing, manufacturing and use of synthetic nutrients has on our planet and everything that lives on it. I know this conversation always leads to "show proof" and "we want a link to research that's valid" so I go one step ahead of myself and drop them here few PHD and master degree holders on this one https://www.researchgate.net/publication/331132826_The_Impact_of_Chemical_Fertilizers_on_our_Environment_and_Ecosystem here is another https://www.researchgate.net/publication/327794401_Nitrate_and_Nitrite_in_Health_and_Disease here is a link that'll give you a pdf with some more info https://www.health.state.mn.us/communities/environment/water/docs/contaminants/nitratmethemog.pdf

WAAAAAAAAAY easier than autos man totemic explains it nicely. you only need to worry about RH. all you need to know is when loadshedding hits it will NEVER extend your light hours, only shorten them. the worst loadshedding has been is 2x 3hr plus 1x 2hr breaks. that's 8hrs of darkness in 24hrs, so I just pull out my timers and let the lights be on for the remainder of the time. gives me 16/8 schedule still good for vegging. you just flip the little switch on the timer that leaves it on 24/7, loadshedding itself will control your cycle. if you can get a inverter+battery pack just to run a circulation fan and extraction fan for at least 3 hours then you one step ahead of me and I still have a harvest every 3 months with my 2 tent perpetual cycle.

brother, my grow setup is in a wendy house outside. but I did insulate the wendy with the stuff they use for ceilings. thick white foamalite boards. will look for a photo real quick, there are some photos up on one of my threads. I am not home now, otherwise I'll just show you when I get home.

lol even the header says it ends 28 Aug 2022

yeah I also think this is just a boendoe grow. I got photoperiods standing outside next to the side of the house, just cause they don't get full sun they wana flower. I have also heard clones that grow in tents under 18/6 for veg for a long time will become conditioned and automatically flower if it gets too much less than 18/6 as it's been nursed in a fine tuned environment basically. also, most importantly, I have so many friends with outdoor plants, some who have big designated outdoor setups, lots of plants just simply flowering cause of the wack photoperiod cycle. few reasons for photoperiods to flower outdoors this time of year. if you look at the veru tippy top of the big bud, not sure if it's because it's so fluffy, or do I see a few leaves wanting to push through? you might be encouraging a bit of foxtailing, but that's also understandable cause of the shit photoperiod cycle. for full flower you need less than 12hrs of light on that plant daylight hours are between 14 and 15hrs now, even if it is an auto, 12hrs of light won't make an auto veg so making sure it only gets 12hr and nothing more you will at least ensure less foxtailing either way.

Welcome @Stinky Pete I'm in Wellington, Boland. people call this place Hellington, few places get hotter than we get it here... I grow all year long, no aircon no inverters no batteries no generators no extra fancy shit... you just gotta be able to keep your hand on them and don't go away for more than 2 days at a time. been growing indoor for over 5 years now. it just takes a bit of flexibility and knowing what you need to do. like letting the tent stand open for an hour or two when needed. Lights aren't the issue with loadshedding, fans are, and they'll only save you from PM when the RH skyrockets during loadshedding, but if your IPM is on point then you are good as gold.... also, photoperiods are waaaaaaaaaaay more forgiving than autos, autos are really only for the guys who make little to no mistakes, otherwise you shoot yourself in the foot thinking you gona make it easier on yourself by growing autos in an difficult situation where autos themselves even in fine tuned grow room will give you problems. whyyyyyy brother, why do that if you got a handle on organic, whyyy in the name of all that is good would you move away from organics over to synthetics? It's not 2001 anymore, "conventional" farming has got to stop, asap. we as cannabis growers / urban farmers should set the example. do yourself a favour and provide a looksee here F*#K SYNTHETIC FERTILIZERS, I have said this sooooo many times before, but synthetic fertilizers just shouldn't exist. and I will keep saying it for as long as it's true.

the sale ended 28 August, think the link has expired by now.

the onion has been around for a while brother

wouldn't you have more faith in your leap of faith if you understood the industry as a whole a little better? I mean if you tired of your position now at 50 it would be really sad to leap into something only to find out it's actually much harder work than you had to do before. the reason why you may think people keep their cards close, is because of this very reason. a love for the plant or saying you have grown it before doesn't impress anyone. we all love the plant and we're all active growers, but we can't even demand such positions. everyone loves the plant, everyone has grown it before. the people keeping their cards close are the ones who get exposed to this the most. they hire someone who "loves the plant" and "have grown it before" but then when it comes to being bent over for 8hrs a day constantly busy with physically demanding work that needs to be done in a timely and orderly fashion, then the "love for the plant" and the "having grown it before" quickly fades into a harsh realisation of reality. work is work. doesn't matter what you do. most people have a misconception of the cannabis industry aswell, you don't get to sit and admire weed all day and look, touch and spend time on what you think is fun and cool. most likely, as with any other labour intensive position, you'll be faced with a work load you presume is too much for you to handle, so you have to figure out the best way to get things done, figure out a routine without hindering quality. you'll have numbers to work towards, you'll have goals to reach set by the boss and and and all that jazz, work is work. I am 28, my age, background, experience and current position all count in my favour, yet I cannot demand a position in the industry, because people aren't employing any random person right now. it's like in the arts industry. you have to be known, people have to be talking about you, people have to be asking for you to work for them, seeking you out. you have to make a name for yourself, network, get your face known by the people at the top. untill then, you have to do all the work yourself. make friends, master a few "paintings" to get people talking... you know?

If I had a cent for everytime I've had this discussion with people. even here on the forum. but everytime it's a lecture from all sides about how "I just don't undrstand how well connected" these people are, but then the seeds where bought online.... so basically, they're not connected? well, except to the internet. as we all are. I will not say much, but if someone thinks they got landrace seeds online, I'm sorry. If you think you got any famous old classic, I am really sorry. ouens will get butt hurt on this one, lots will go to the grave still swinging

@loading... what's up bud, welcome to the forum! if you looking for a nice veg light I am selling mine for 2k, add here on the forum if you wana have a look. I also have a 1mx1m tent I'll throw in for 3k.

just keeping my threads alive, haven't been able to post as much gave them 2 waterings with 2ml/L fish, looks like we're back on track, new growth on the girls all looking good returned to normal green. stripped all the damaged fan leaves, looks like I did a preflower defoliation, going back down to 1ml Fish as there is less biomass now after the strip. will post photos soon

just a short update here to keep the thread alive changed the Grape Diamond out for a CannaHealthGenetic#21 plant, anyone familiar with them or this pheno? plants are all on week 3 of flower. pistils everywhere. few tips burnt here and there. rest is all good. will post photos soon

only thing to remember when using biological control is whenever you use a chemical contact pesticide after that you kill off all predetors too. so it's either one or the other. biological control - takes a long time but is more effective in the long run if you're consistent in keeping predatory populations up. you can't just apply it once or twice and expect it to resolve all your problems. because it's living organisms the probability of first application working is very low, it's something that has to adapt to your growing environment and like I said will be more effective over the long run IF you maintain populations. pesticides - effective as used, IPM is a weekly regime, never ends, except in flower. contact treatments don't last too long. could resolve infestations after one application, but can also be an ongoing battle if a plant has poor BRIX% bugs will attack it no matter what you spray. if you doing biological control the BRIX% don't matter as much cause you bringing food for the predators. if theres no microscopic bugs/spores (food) for the microscopic predators they die off too so it's almost more practical to use biological control outdoors or on a farm, rather than indoors where you get month periods of no pest or disease pressure then there is no point in having a biological control in there. either way, nutes and pesticides have very little to nothing to do with eachother. very seldom that you will get a NB notice to not use one product with another in terms of nutes and spray applications, but that's almost never. just use cannabis specific stuff. don't spray your cannabis plants with shit made for roses

If he was in late flower in June, let's say he was in week 10/11 of flower and he was still flowering till now, that would be a 20 - 21 week flower cycle..... that wouldn't work for any cannabis plant. @GuTs this person could've grown the plant for 10 months eeeeeeeeeaaaasily, nothing strange about that, but if that where the case the plant would not have looked like that back in June already. if it was a 10month project and he only harvested now, back in June the plant shoul've still been vegging. you can keep mother plants in veg for multiple years, there is really no limit on time you can keep/veg a cannabis plant for. I can veg for 5 years before I flip to flower, but what we focus on here is the fact that the plant was already so late in flower 4 months ago, because as we know we can push the veg cycle any which way we want, but when it comes to flower you have that 9 - 13 week window and done. you can't push flower cycle for longer than the plant dictates.

What made you choose synthetic nutes? I would suggest to rather go full organic when growing under the sun. juuuuuuuust my

@GuTs If there was a gun to my head, I would also go with BnB option. If it was a open ended question I would have to answer you with another question - Are those package deals or something or how did it come down to only those two options? If it was my first time growing I would not get any auto seeds. No questions about it. Wouldn't go for the GSR bundle either, this is why I ask if it's a package deal or...?

Welcome! How did the accidental grows turn out?

Hey bud! what's the peroxide for? If you wana be sterile, just boil water, let it cool down and use that clean. Even that is over kill. most important is a constant 25-28°C. Take that water fill a shot glass 2/3 and drop the seed in. If it sinks - perfect. If it floats, not to worry. Either way give it 24hrs, when you check up on it and still hasn't sunk lightly tap the floating seed with your finger tip. If it still doesn't sink, you might have a dud. Still plant it and see wat happens. Either way don't leave your seed in the water for longer than the 24hrs otherwise you drown it. It has sucked up all the moisture it possibly can by now and because of this reason you don't want your paper towels soakes, you just want them 50% moist. you can take a 2 plates, normal ones you eat from, clean them nicely with warm soap water, fold any white paper towel couple times and wet it with fresh cooled down - boiled water, pour off excessive water and lay your seeds ontop of the moist paper towels and place another paper towel over it and just lightly press it down. Usually no need for more water. few drops is all you need. Take the second plate and turn it upside down ontop of the other one, to keepn it dark and closed but breathing still and keep it in a warm place like a window sill. sun light won't get inside. don't cook them anything over 30°C will not be ideal. If you have a modem or some kinda router in your house even a dstv or a netflix reciever thing works perfect as a little heat mat, you just simply place it ontop. keep track of temp, if it goes above 30 just move it. open paper towels first time after 36hrs