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I would go with 2.5, selected 3 as all three were alive and kickin ^^ one (sinker) was 48 hours behind the others, lost 12 hours to pop and the 48 hours to breaking the surface. I would have grown it to finish, IF ^^ this wouldn't be a competition. Genetics count Seeds were fresh and the 2 Ladies going are more or less on track with the usual Gelatos I grow. 2 weeks done tomorrow since dropping in a glass and the first 5 finger is growing. Happy chap so far with the seeds.

Germinate all three.. select the most healthy genetics. I already sorted one out.. and end of veg I will see if I go on with both.. or reduce to the final Lady.

I haven't managed to foxtail a single plant with LED just not enough heat radiation... and had them touching the lights. But then again.. I pay very much attention on cooling my lights to run hand warm. Can leave your hand on forever on my lights, just warm I hate loosing electricity over heat resistance

You have 2 factors you need to handle with your ventilation.. heat and humidity. Shutting off the ventilation can raise your humidity to nasty ranges. Always keep an eye on both. LED is for the home grower and has certain perks - Less energy consumption, Eskom will increase the prices further.. not reduce them. - More efficient, means less heat gets generated with the power consumed and more light emitted compared to HID systems. - Less heat means less AC running, less power consumption, cheaper to run. Those are arguments you can't ignore as a home grower. The lights also do the trick but we have to give HID a certain right to still get used. - Nothing veges like MH light - Nothing flowers like HPS LEDs still try to reach HID in quality of light... but we get closer and closer each year. Mixing with LED isn't wrong.. but as @PsyCLown said.. has a shit PPFD compared to several smaller light sources. I would go HID only in a commercial setup in combination with a CO2 system, needs a separate cooling circle for the lights anyhow. Stick to LED as a home grower.. a lot less hassle.. first I add.. Foxtailing isn't a issue at all anymore

Just add a release date for the strain.. once that is posted on the internet, that date is burned into history can't release anything, if your company was not up and running at that date hehehe

I checked 3 LUX apps with different light configuarations and different diodes. Over 500 micromol PAR the readings were up to 20% off. If you are in CT, can check to come by and we measure your app with your own lights and a sq500... those numbers make more sense to trust. ts3000 and a 600 watt bar lamp had very different readings for flower distance.

I honestly think at least 50% out there sell you anything, SCAM you... once you have a breeder you can trust.. stick with it! The good part is that Cannabis testing gets cheaper and once we can list terpene profiles for a strain.. you can at least check if you are close or got something totally different... like the Charlottes Web I bought as medical seeds.. and the seeds have more THC then CBD once tested. If you think you get what you order... in a lot cases you have to rethink that idea. Get your stuff tested.. at least you know where you stand Something you might do too @Totemic, add the Terpene profile for your strain once finished and stable. Strangely I trust the seeds more, when they show a profile.. no hiding of BS at the end.

Not cheap those seeds

And the daily update.. video now running faster, plants got nothing at all. Working on the third leaf set Video runs at 3 times the speed now

Just some comments ^^ 1) I prefer halo drippers. With a T junction and bit of hose.. you make easy your own and you can make them to your size.. very big pots.. 2 halos or more. 2) Nope, no need.. just add a oscillating fan over them to cover both or point one on each directly. 3) For a 2.4x1.2 the wattage is ok with 1040 watts ^^ just check that your ventilation is up to the task.. the HPS will add some heat during flower.. the 440 Watts for Veg on a 2.4x1.2, are a bit low.. you might want to add a MH, if you want to stay HID. If you add 2 more LED lights (like the ones you have) you can skip the HPS.. have less heat issues.. HPS and Foxtailing is a serious issue most underestimate. Raise the temp... check to get as little "fresh" air in during cold times and let the heat build up in the garage.. insulate your grow area.

The main issue is that they only grow when they have light. So with the right flowering stimulators in the feeding.. you can skip the dark and just go light. I wouldn't get the idea to go 11/13.. that just makes no sense. I still believe that the more light the better the result.. hence, why I prefer autos over all.. but.. you can't pheno hunt autos.. the breeder needs to do a proper job.. and most out there don't do that and just release asap. Checking a strain for the minimum dark period, makes sense.. but also another factor to go wrong. Worst is a re veg.. that hormone change in grow function leaves marks in the plants substance and weakens the plant over all.

Just pissed myself.. Dude from CT.. if you love cats.. hehehe is a must

Nice 3d Printer they are fun to play with. Just remember for your ventilation... one in, one out.. you do not want to run a shrink wrap or balloon tent. Brings additional stress to the plants.

Can make 2 different speed versions.. that is just a click ^^ one for the real stoners and a version for the people in a hurry The leaves dance more, if I increase the speed a bit.. might do that for the next movies ^^

Very much agree with you on the signs.. but ^^ if you feed every second day Cal and Mag.. is excluded with his Ph range. First look at the pic, my head went: Stop that pyrol crap but he didn't used any. And I agree to the break the plant needs.. very difficult to figure out what is going on with all that gets done on the plant. Let the soil get proper dry and no feeding. If dry, water only. She will not show any signs on new growth or it will intensify.. but at least you can diagnose way easier. During Germ and Veg you need to stick to your dry cycle, folks.. this is very important for the plants health and grow speed, roots grow faster and more healthy that way. Once they flower, you can keep em a little more wet... but that also means in reasonable areas. Swamps will always cause your plants to stall. Let the pot dry up in regular intervals!!!! And except the tent has a nasty heat problem or way to small pot used.. it takes about 2 days or even longer to feed again as the pot is dry enough to do so.

Yeah.. but if he feeds what he says.. he shouldn't have a calcium issue at all... so by taking his information. I would exclude that. I agree with @CreX, stop the foliar feed till you have your plants back to normal. Doing additional stuff when you chase a issue, just makes it harder to guess what it can be. The leaves look extremely 'heavy'.. what points to overwatering.. and over feeding and moisture brings out fungus, my idea to those spots right now. The burned sides of the "teeth" point a bit to Nitrogen toxicity... very hard to diagnose when you don't have one of those leaves in your hand to feel it. Let the plants dry up and feed water for a week.. see if your symptoms disappear or get more distinguished. Right now.. I say to much of N and keep the plants way to wet.

Depends a bit on the strain, how they can handle light.. so might also be some strains having no issue with 13/11. If I would have 2 flower tents.. might try it ^^ but I stick to 12/12 till then. Thanks for posting

Very stretchy ^^ perhaps a tick more light on?

I gather all movie files, can put them together at the end

And the Update for the 19th May. Get 20ml of Fish Mix (1ml/L) and 2 ml/L Bio Heaven And the Video, 18th to the 19th May

You have those spots only on the lower leaves?

I gave @CreX some fast photo seeds of red mandarin... curious what he will report

Update ^^ Pic 18 May, Video 17 May (has some strange stuff happening, due to 2 load shedding sessions). Video from the 17th 08:00 to the 18th 02:00

Sure can do hope you enjoy the clone