Prom

We do DIY... how it fits best. Would love to build a proper lab environment for a grow room but... hehehe i scratch together money to replace my inliners to more silent ones. 10k down the drain... very far away from how i really would like it to be. I add a interesting one. Friend measured his QBs with the quantum flux meter... he has after 3 grows done, boards losing 10% of strenght. Is a bit much to my liking for 50k hours diodes.... are the B version diodes.

I just pull out the power plug and lift em out. I couldnt figure out a faster and more simple way... went with it. If i would run the drivers outside, i would select the floor... like my battery charger is flat on the tiles, coldest spot in the room. If you run your driver at the hottest area, you will always run warmer and with more resistance. Take the drivers down to the ground, coolest spot keeps them coolest possible, what means most effìcient at least that would be my logic. At one spot, people do it as they prefer and like. As long as the result is to your liking... many ways lead to Rome And i would say to @OrganicGrower_ZA, go with Totemics version... very sexy i fiddle with 7 different lamps for 3 different tent sizes, mobility helps me most.

outside doesn't work with my setup. I have 2 QBs on one driver, the other is easy to hang as you wish and at what angle. The driver lamp is set to more or less point down. Both QB's hang on a 1.2m top hanger I can easy lift out and use in a different tent. Depending how many plants I have inside, I hang more light in or take out. If the driver would be outside, I would have to disconnect wires. Now I just lift them out and in as I like. But yeah, if the light would be fix for a tent.. I would do the power supplies outside.. just because it looks nicer too Should add.. all my tents have 1.2 hanging distance, so all my lamps work in all my tents.

way more sexy as my way

100 watt for 0.8x0.8 isn't much. Depends a bit how full your tent was. If you plan to use the full area, use both lamps. I use 440 watt on a 1x1 area.. friend prefers his 600 watts (His plants get in general taller). See no problem to mix.. you might want to add another 120 QB, but for now, worth a test run, just a little less as what I use. When you add light, you add heat.. just check that your ventilation also gets a upgrade. Those blurple's produce very little heat, the QB's will add a bit more. You also do not want to place the driver on your QB.. hang the driver up separate or put spacers in between, point a fan on it, the Mars didn't need that, the QB does like air flow to keep it hand warm. Have fun, run a diary..

Pulled a Frenchy on the tall ones. If i want to put them back in the tent, they still fit

Clones are exploding... have enough to select from New Gelato doing much better i screwed up the last batch so bad And some more photos to pheno hunt

I would say yes, a 1x1 isn't small. You should exchange the air about 6 times a minute.. and with proper ventilation, your chance to run into PM is way lower. Just check your dark times when the air cools down and releases the stored moisture. When the lamps are on, you fight usually more with temperature. You might want fans you can change the speed and just let em run on half. Uses about same energy with two, but you have a decent flow in and out. My IN side, i use both air streams to vent the plants, one high, directable, one low entry. Both have HEPA filters on the intake. 2 OUT. One with carbon filter goes outside the flat, the other goes to the climat room to get cooked again.

Tina and a Guitar was 16 when she played this.. if somebody likes to play, will enjoy this, if not already knows it

I live with China parts and a tupperware box 2 ventilation setup, one in, one out for each. The box handles 4 6inch inliners. Tent was dark when i took the picture.. but still easy to read. Humidity handling inside the tent. Temp i cook outside the tent. The humidity handling inside is only to not run into PM issues. I avoid anything over 60% during flower on the inside.

Defoiling you do for a reason. In general to open the flowers better to the sun and bring more air to the plant, some strains get VERY leafy. When your plant grows as nice and open as yours, see zero reason to actually do a defoiling. Go on with what you do and remove the leaves the plants give up them self. Rest, let them be very nice job till now!

Clones now 2.5 weeks since i cut them

Nope, but a very nice set. If you would go to the right from the picture location and a bit further towards the lake (backwards in the picture).. you would get to one of the spots i lived in Zurich I kinda miss the "Oxa".. name of a after hour club, opening at 5am. Good sound, crazy people, I enjoyed my stay in Switzerland very much

Looking gooooood! Just clean the leaves the plants are giving up. And nice timing by the way

As I just had a refresh read up, I decided that why not just post it. Auto-Flower and Training In general, this is my personal opinion.. but as I grew a few 100, this is simply my stand of experience. I did both LST and HST on Autos. HST I did topping and FIMing. I prefer LST and I quickly explain why. LST (Light Stress Training) I couldn't really notice any stress on a plant, when I did LST. It helps you get your canape even and you get better air flow and light on your buds, what makes them denser and more tasty. LST is what it says, you disturb the plant on a minimum and bind it to your liking to open it up and use to control how tall you want them. I do not want to post to much information, as it really helps, if you read deeper into training methods before you just 'try'. Knowing what you do comes in all life situations with huge benefits. ScrOG (Screen of Green) uses a net/grid to help you with the spreading With the 4 plants per person, SOG (Sea Of Green) I do not even enter ^^ but my preferred method is also very depending on your climate control. You have so many plants in SOG, to not run into mold, system must work perfect. HST (High Stress Training) I do NOT recommend those methods to anyone having no idea what we talk about. Doing HST on a Auto can have a VERY negative effect on your yield! So if you do not know why and what you do.. don't grab any scissors! When can you do HST? First of all, you did that on Photos and know your strain to perfection. Your auto plant is praying and is a little god damn happy mother f@$%er, environment is perfect. Only then, you can consider it!! One last word: NEVER EVER!!!!!! FIM during flower! That will for sure ruin your harvest. Topping The topping cut is a tick to high to my liking, but is the right area, I usually cut closer to the nodes I keep, like on the first photograph, right side part. FIMming (FCUK I Missed (on purpose^^)) Why FIM? FIM gives you more colas. Instead of 2 mains you get on topping, FIMing can provide you 4 to 6 mains, but is also to my experience the most stressful disturbance you can hit the plant with. Topping seems to be a notch less stressy in my experience. But still.. HST is exactly what is says: HIGH stress for the plant. She will show you the finger for a certain time duration.. how long, that is the question. With limited life time on Autos.. to long and your yield suffers catastrophically. Avoid stress when the plants flower, you will reduce potency for sure. So yeah, grab the scissors and snip at your own risk.. if you never did it, start with a Photo, you can bugger her as much as you want during Veg and keeping her on 18/6. You just waste time and should gain yield. Once you put them 12/12, same rule, keep stress to a minimum. I ran into the pics at fastbuds and as pics explain better as any words, I grabbed them, so the pics are NOT made by me. Quick ADDON ^^ If you grew the autos before and they became 1.50 and taller, strong, fast growing strain, Topping or FIMming becomes way more interesting. If the strain stayed around to 75-90cm tall, just LST. You don't want to disturb them to much. Trained plants never grow taller as untrained... so dwarfs will not go giant with what ever training you do. You train to improve the quality of the colas you grow.

The pen is for wax/honeybee... I traveled with it @dank nothing wrong with old stuff ^^ The vulcano is on the market for quite some time too. I think we used it 2008.

We used a Vulcano Classic. Is a bit of a mission and the plastic bag you have to replace rather often. In a group for a fun little smoking sit around, yeah.. daily use.. way to stationary. The thing is as heavy as it looks like. Used a Pocket Vaporizer, OK.. or a Pen Vaporizer. My preferred one. You can take it everywhere and can serve you a few heavy tokes on the go is the version I used BY FAR the most. I used this one: https://vapestore.co.za/pen-vaporizers/ghost Also bought it from those guys. The pen lasts very veeery long on one charge.

Very sexy setup!

If you fear mold.. just use the bicarb of soda. 2g per liter and wash off with clear water. Look that the water is around 20 degrees. Not to warm to make the resin soft, not to cold to make it brittle. One bucket with water is fine, the solution of the first gets massively diluted, just leave it in the second bucket as long as you, gentle move it in the first. Right away hang it in a very airy spot and try to get them as fast back to normal dry.. and start your procedure. Have fun PS: Don't mix the bicarb with lemon juice.. you cancel the effects out to my understanding. Lemon juice is acidic.. PM not likey that.. same with to alkaline, Bicarb of Soda. One or the other. I prefer the bicarb of soda.

I quickly went to your first link.. Yes, salad from the garden you wash ^^ I just read the first bid and wasn't sure if i should read on. I think we had the discussion about washing buds in here before. As I said, I only do it, if I have to.. and if i really really have to, the compost heap gets visit Soft PM or soft parasite infection.. I would wash. Rest I declare myself the loser and try to make it better next time. I would never ever use a chemical pesticide on my weed (biological warfare i use against PM ^^). That would go compost in any case. Very hard to get it clean and making your weed wet, is also asking shortly for biiiig trouble. When you dry your weed correctly and wait till it has the right moment to jar.. the inside of a big bud can stay very long moist inside, it will release that to the rest. If that goes over 68% in your jar, mold will start to grow. Slowly but steady.. you always smell it first. And if you smell it.. the batch is off. Most save way is to watch your parameters when you dry and OVER dry a bit. As most take it to wet, over dry is a better chance to not have a mold issue. Then get a Boveda bag. I use 62% for the first 2 weeks and 58% for long term storage. You can re-moist the bags, so they last forever, as long as they don't come from a moldy glass.. dump those right away. If you do not trust your own judgment, get a cheap cheap humidity meter to drop in your Jar.. 68%.. you go over.. re dry your stuff! You do it right, you end with weed you can store for as long as you want. Should add.. you want to end up around 62-58% and you will have a sexy smoke

Why wash off potency??? Why would it be a better smoke? Washing off dirt? You wash your buds when you have to. Rest you get the smoke you have in the plants genetics. If you are in the mood to wash your weed.. I can't stop you.. I wouldn't do it just for the fun of it hehehe if your weed is so dirty from the wind.. you want to grow on a different spot anyhow

You have mold on or not? If you don't have on, don't wash. Drying.. yes, is a bit of an art you do not need loads of air flow. What you want to achieve is stable temp (around 20 degrees) and the right humidity to dry in (50-60%). You got that, air flow is not really important. And as long as you let the weed DRY!!!!! and don't jar it to fast, you should never get a mold issue on dry weed. Remember that those spores are EVERYWHERE, you can only prevent them from starting to grow, as long as it is to dry for them to do anything. Over 68% air humidity, you WILL run into troubles. Most people jar weed to wet.. patience is the key to harvest, dry and cure.

Outdoor went pre. Morning picture of the Gelato (back) and the Charlottes Web (front)

If your strains have all the same duration, that helps.. or, better, run a grow sheet for each strain/plant. If you fertilize a 8-9 week plant with a 12 week plan.. harvest will suffer.. if you use a 8 week plan on a 12 week plant, the plant might not enjoy that. At one stage, you add 1 + 1 and get to the needed result. Is like driving a car, there a loads of different ways to drive it, each has a bit their own gusto and style. But if you just stay on the break.. or the accelerator.. your car will suffer. If you use a fertilizer giving you the freedom like: use x amount of in Veg, other bottle will be x amount for flower.. do that, the bigger they get, the more they drink. If a system like BioBizz gives you a weekly layout.. check that your plants fit that layout or put a few seconds of thought into it.. you might have to increase or reduce the dosage to get to the same result. Starting in week8 with TopMax.. on a 9 week plant.. is a bit to late ^^ just as example. Most people over water their plants and think constant moisture is good.. cannabis wants a dry phase, and if you follow them, they grow stronger. Fine soil and constant wet will keep your plants on the smaller side, what ever you do. Don't give up.. that was a starter hickup, and I agree with the guys before, perhaps you might want to swap the grow shop too ^^ Your plants were struggling for weeks to get to the point they are now.