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I "Mendel"ed the last time in Gymnasium. But genetics were my chosen special.. so lets quickly see if I have to read up. The Photo gene is dominant and the Auto gene is recessive. That is my main assumption. The Photo can be PP / Pp / pP The auto must be pp The unknown figure is the F1 Photo mother, as it can have 3 possibilities. If the mother is PP, it will add one generation to the procedure, if she is Pp or pP, I would get a 100% auto with F3 generation. Photo mother is PP The result (F2) of the crossing with the Auto would always result in a Pp or pP combination. And both would have Photo grow habits. Easy to figure out with 24/0 light. Those F2 would need another crossing with Ruderalis and the result would be three options. Pp, pP and pp in the F3. Separation with 24/0 and crossing the most Sativa looking male and female from the F3 would result in pp only.. and lottery tells, if I selected crap or got somewhere. If the mother is already Pp/pP (not sure how valid that option is) I get a pure auto with F3. Or do I make a critical mistake somewhere?

@Dank I am not really in a rush and never made a auto.. I did some breeding years ago with Jack Herer and Pineapple Express. My goal is rather simple.. first, make a auto ^^ second, make the auto look as much as the original photo. The first batch f3 should be pure.. then I check if I like, if yes, I hand out some seeds to the board members.. beginner to gurus.. and with that feedback I decide, if I try harder or go to the Malawi. Swazi isn't a top terp weed, one of the reasons to start with it i would rate it as easier to get something similar. Right now just curious ^^ and bored My infant heart still hopes the government gets all legalized and I can open a coffee shop Then I would go a bit more bonkus rent storage facility, order a Moat ^^ and run 40 strains at the same time, employee 20 people not sure that is enough. I enjoy my legal growing very much Right now.. I test and try all the strains I ignored, and so much new coming out each year. When I have a better overview of what is going on out there, I am rather sure, I will go back to photos and pheno hunt my top 5. My seed order still in JoBurg. Went checking with Post Office.. Naa, backlog, sorry! As long not confiscated, all good first 11 strains to test. Never had Strawberry Pie, or Lemon Pie, or Orange Sherbet,... very long list.. I might be missing out hehehe so I first wanna get a better overview, then breed a bit more serious. Might come back to your Blueberry ^^ I enjoyed those very much, was also a first.

I got me a Mastergrow 1.2x1.2x2 ... mhhhh i hate the zippers... i really really do. So from my part a very big Would keep my hands off those tents.. rest is usual, nothing special.. so have only one bad thing to say.. and the zipper you use quite often. Not very easy to open and close.. best example for cheap shit

Is a bit of a repetition ^^ but light is for most the most confusing part. @Bakstein420 the Samsung diodes are just one, there are more producing LED diodes. For Samsung, stick to the LM301B or H diodes. The more important selection are the frequency ranges and board setups you can choose. They offer usually a range from 2500k to 6000k, pure white or combined with infra red or ultra violet diodes. I personal only go for 3000k 660nm, so included infra red.. but I avoid any UV on the board. That's to the DIY.. you pay a bit for your light from the shop as they (should) come with the hanging instructions. Distance for germ, veg and flower.. those are very important figures. To much light is especially bad during germ and most people do the mistake in this step. @Johnny You do it right.. ask and inform yourself as good as you can. Those lights cost.. but then again, Eskom will over take the cost of the light within a year. Look that you run the light in regards to your grow space. Going over 450 watt on a 1.2mx1.2m area is wasting energy, in my opinion. So what ever you buy, check that the lamp comes with instructions how to hang it for the three stages. It will reflect in your grow success.. Wish you the best of luck and may the weed be with you ^^ Read up here.. gives you an idea what shape of light you want:

Fabric and air pots have a reason to be there. I think the advantage of the airpot is the increased surface area they generate.. and bring more air to the roots. As they are stable to lift, I would consider them, if they wouldn't be round ^^ I like my square pots Perfect to place together in early stages and easy to lift around. Fabric pots are good and if you use them, they should provide some advantages too in regards to airing your roots way better. But they come with disadvantages too. Carry them around needs always 2 hands, my plastic pots I can handle with one hand. The more annoying issue is the top feeding. The liquid likes to run off over the outside of the pot and leaves the inside dry. I think you can only water fabric pots the right way over tray feeding, it needs to soak in.

Yes, sorting for the final step to get pure Autos I do in 24/0. As I use pure Ruderalis, I actually hope I can preserve the Plant structure.. but will always be a hybrid at the end.. I hope a very very sativa heavy one, rest is a fail ^^ I do the Malawi after this one.. ^^ still looking for Kilimanjaro Seeds.. they are not that easy to pick up hehehe

I wanna select a ruderalis female and male for more ruderalis seeds. Used all I had for the selection now. And I want to introduce a female Swazi to the ruderalis male pollen I selected and check how they end in the next round Is a bit all related to keeping me busy. If I get a nice result.. I will drop some seeds for you guys to test and comment.

Check under side of the leaves.. and use a microscope. If there are no creepy crawlies.. Calcium low, would be my next guess

^^ Is also my way to check em fast. Macro pic with my Nikon and zoom in on the computer and check in peace with a smoke for the good things to come

I made my readings with a Phone and a Tablet.. both gave the same readings. And I used the same items for any measurements. Over 500 micromol the lux reading wasn't the same depending on light configuration. The bar lamp showed very low figures beside the Quantum Flux Sensor, showing the 1000mmol. The bar distributes it the most even.. can't tell you why, was scratching my head a bit but I did the readings on different spots. Center and outside areas.. up to 500mmol worked like a charm.. already giggled that I do not need the Quantum Flux meter anymore.. but the high ones.. didn't really work. Best would still be to have somebody over with a Quantum Flux meter and tell you quickly your hanging sweets spots.. at the end it doesn't has to be 100% correct. The main issue most did wrong is the hanging distance for germination. That should work with the Lux meter.. 250mmol gave on all lamp configurations a reading around the 20k Lux mark. Would start from there ^^

Yes, correct. The main air entry is the 150mm duct (comes from another tent.. saving fans ^^), exit is a 6 inch inliner top of the tent and actually 2 oscillating fans top down for each side. The fans are not in yet.. ^^ still waiting for them to get delivered. Have the Photos with the Autos at the moment on 20/4, still germination phase. Put them on 18/6 once they go into the ready tent... I am rather sure Takealot will manage today to deliver hehehe. The 40cm oscillating fans are more for the plants but will cool the lights automatically by doing their thing ^^ I like my tents more on the windy side

Is not a bad spot to put them.. inside a vacuum sealed container.. can also freeze them

I stick a bit in here with the 8 plant limit.. not sure if Ruderalis actually count ^^ I make me some more seeds and pollen as I started my Swazi Gold Auto Project. I will make a diary of that.. got a bit shifted as I need the 12/12 tent for the upcoming CBDs for a friend with nasty epilepsy. She wants to check if the CW's help her and she can get off her medication. What else I have in my stable are 2 FastBuds strains.. Gelato and Pineapple Express. The Pineapple seems to be on a rush and I am doing something right with those ones. Gelato is strangely smaller this grow. Both are Week 5 Day 1. Gelato Pineapple Express Ruderalis and the CW's are just out of the ground.

Sorry.. just wanted to post a reminder.. your 12 week outdoor Autoflowers wanna hit the glass NOW!!! So No.. you are not to late

They are still there.. smokers know 2 (sativa/indica) and growers know 3 (sativa/indica/ruderalis) The ruderalis is just a timer, if we look at it in a simple way. Taking the photo sensitivity out, brings other advantages.. but autos have one big disadvantage.. you can't pheno hunt them over clones. The sativa high is still the sweet sexy uplifting high you can only get from a sativa. And nothing can couch you like a indica but over all, yes, the old rules got changed to what science found out. When you come to my smoking cabinet.. right now I have 18 different jars with 15 different strains, 3 outdoor, rest indoor. Some very little and some quite big jars ^^ I pick and smoke depending how I feel or want to feel. Before lunch time, you will never really see me running around with a late harvest indica, or I plan to go back to bed. The Royal Gorilla is my preferred day smoke beside the early Blue Cheese and Early Blueberry Kush at the moment.. or what the jars provide Afternoon to evening I prefer a not as potent but going relaxing smoke. Late Blue Cheese, Candy Kush. Evening after dinner, Gelato, my Nr1 right now. And when I want to couch or have issues to get asleep.. late Bubblelicious, a passion fruit knockout. Others just got in the cabinet and need curing time, the early Somango and late Critical just going into the cabinet (trade with a friend.. what I can recommend to stock up your selection ^^ 100g swaps). The longest cured weed inside the cabinet is now 8 months in the jar and just this change of taste is hard to believe. A Amnesia Haze.. mouth watering. Harvest is one thing.. curing the other. But there is one main rule.. bad weed doesn't become a good weed with curing. But good weed gets better with curing. You boarded the train to a life long learning and each year new tastes.. will keep you busy and happy to keep up with all the new stuff each year.. growing is never boring

I just build the lamps for the tent.. CBD Charlottes Web.. Photos ^^ so 4 plants will go in it. 4 x 60 liter pots, wanna see if I can mainline the full area. Have Ruderalis growing too.. those calm me down from the weirdness to grow photos again I put the watt meter on and see if the boards get more hungry by time and heat. When I touch them after 30 mins, they run just hand warm. But sexy input.. I check it out. Thx!!

To close was mainly a HID issue... foxtailing the result hehehe LED are not as tricky.. still you need good ventilation, if you go that close. I use 8 QBs total.. and I don't go closer as 40cm during flower to the canape (PAR wise).. some buds are closer. If you have just one long main cola, you might wanna go closer.. the part getting to much light, just can't use it and is wasted, if you don't run a CO2 generator. As long as it stays cool, good to go. Is one of the advantages with led. Radiation heat is not as dramatic as with a HID system.

I said I write a little guide, so here it comes. How much is to much and how do I check it? If you checked into lights to grow indoor, you will run into some fun diagrams of light foot prints. Those help you to put the lights at the right distance. All good lamps provide you with the hanging distances for each stage Germination, Vegetative and Flower. If you build your own lights, you run into the issue, that you are a bit clueless, how to hang your lamps. Best to get that sorted is a Quantum Flux Meter. It measures the PAR (the light relevant to plants) light arriving at the sensor and hang accordingly. I am in the lucky position, that a friend bought one. Expensive toys You have one.. not telling you anything new.. Aim around 250 mmol for germination, around 500 mmol for Veg and 800-1200 mmol on flower. If you do not have a Quantum Flux meter.. I made some tests with normal Lux meters for your phone.. lets call them mixed results. But... Germination and Veg it seems to work. I have issues reproducing my results on different lamp configurations for the high readings. Varies up to 20%, what is to off to get clear results. Strangely, the low reading were spot on.. we talk 2-4% variation. I used Android tablet and phone, had the same readings .. using this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pardel.photometer&hl=en_US&gl=US Put the phone/Tablet horizontal for all readings. 250 mmol should read 20k Lux 500 mmol 40k Lux Everything above that was just going different readings depending on lamp configuration. But as it look rather linear to 500.. you could use that to put your plants at the right light. Yes, the lamps are really that far away during germination ^^ My single QBs and TS3 gave me the 80k Lux at 1000 mmol.. but 2 other lamps gave way weaker readings 60k Lux. And I used 5 different lamps, 3 different diodes. The Germination and Veg results were spot on. Try, let me know if your plants grow bigger now. Now, you want to buy a good lamp.. -> store! You get help to select and a warranty on it, plus the instruction how to use the lamp.. so skip the Quantum Flux Thingy right away. Are those lamps really that good at 30k Rand? Yes, they are that good. Do I need one of those to grow awesome dank? Nope... ^^ Is no rocket science to build a good decent lamp doing the job.. but if you are not in the mood.. buy one from the grow store.. LED!!!! nothing else they wanna sell you. Size of the lamp is given by grow space. Don't go the other way around or you end up with a lamp way to big for your space. Why is that bad? What generates light these days, also generates heat. And as soon as you put a dimmer on.. you are back in the guessing game how far to hang now. Yes, light is way more tricky as fertilizer.. fertilizer come with clear instructions. Lights are more pointing in the right direction. Why LED? For a home grower it is the best choice these days. Very reliable and low heat light source. The times for HID systems are over in the home grower circle. There are still good reasons to go MH/HPS, but not for any new starting person. No Sir, hands off! LED are expensive! Really? I just build myself a 4QB setup for a 1.2mx1.2m tent.. 280$ with shipping. If that is to much.. thank god, you didn't started growing 30 years ago Buy or build.. but stick to LED.. very short section.. nothing to add really. What type of LED lamp? The right selection will make your life way easier. Remember, light produces heat.. and to much heat is not good for your plants. We used a few lamps and come to certain conclusions The no go Zone Those lamps just "gather" the heat below and if you use such a setup in a single tent.. your airflow will suffer one SHITLOAD. I wouldn't go this way.. we have one of those.. and is the worst lamp of all for climate control. Other disadvantage, any uneven canape is very hard to handle. Bar lights Lets bring the disadvantage up, is the same like the lamp before.. if your canape goes very uneven.. will get more work. BUT.. airflow wise, they are awesome. Put the fan over the light and point down to cook up a storm.. cools light and plants and you lose no space to a ground standing fan. If I would have 2-3 sections to grow, the one for the big ones, I would use a bar light and just sort the canape to fit. Those lamps are doing a better light distribution and little resistance to your climate control. Central configuration Still monsters but at least compact and offer not as much airflow resistance like the ones with build in non lighting surface. You lose a lot more light strength to the side and they bring some heat to the center plants. My second last choice. Single QB Build Lets start with the disadvantage, you have to adapt more ratchets.. 4 instead of 2. Advantages are airflow and dynamic handling in regards to canape. The 150mm duct brings the fresh air and the oscillating one is top mounted. The QBs run without any heat sink, 2 per 240watt driver. I used 3mm tread rod to build the hangers. For one grow section, you don't care how the canape grows, you can handle dwarfs and bean stalks. Hope it gave some ideas what to look for and what not to look for. Always remember.. light produces heat and heat needs to get removed. If your lights hinder you, they might be the reason why your plants stay on the smaller side. DIY tips You want to order and build? Read up! You need to read a bit and decide where to go.. and we mean spectrum frequencies ^^ All the LED light producers offer different frequencies for the diodes. For a grow light, my personal suggestion is to go with a 3000k 660nm board or a 3500k 660nm board. I avoid anything having more on it, like UV. The IR you want, that is a sexy wave length for flowering. There are 301B and 301H diodes out. B gets sold as V2 and H as V3.. both work. The difference is the hardening layer on the diode, the rest is the same. H stands for Samsung's Horticulture range, better environmental resistance.. buh hu hehe go for the cheaper one if money is a issue and the expensive if you like to waste it a bit QBs you get around 30-40$.. getting cheaper each year. Driver you can pick up anywhere you find it cheap.. i get mine from digi-key. If you are not in a rush, look for the free world wide express shipping they do from time to time. You build such a lamp system in an hour in very stoned conditions or 30 mins sober Hope it helped somebody.. or I wasted quite a bit of time

1) As soon as the seeds pop, I put them 1cm deep in FF Premium Classic and water with Root juice. 2) You start your clock when you drop the seed into the glass of water for 12 hours. 3) I try to give nutes on all feedings.. can be to much for some strains. You always have to use your eyes and check the leaves for troubles. If you are unsure, give every third feeding nutes and stick to water otherwise. The feeding amount is per liter you apply to the pots. Your feeding table says: 3 Grow, 2 Bloom and 1 Top Max.. you add that to each liter.. and apply the amount the plant needs for this single feeding. OK.. my beefed up feeding tables for 8 and 10 weeks.. 9 and 11 week plants I just take the lower one.. 8 for 9, 10 for 11. 12 you have from the original table. To make it easy for me: Fish-Mix = F / Grow = G / Bloom = B / Top Max = TM / Rotating each feeding with Fish-Mix or Grow = FG | 4/4/4 = 4ml Grow, 4ml Bloom, 4ml Top Max per liter of feeding liquid. 8 week Table Week 1 4ml Root Juice Week 2 2ml F Week 3 3ml F Week 4 3 ml FG / 2ml B Week 5 3ml FG / 3ml B / 1ml TM Week 6 4ml G / 3ml B / 3ml TM Week 7 4/4/4 Week8 Flush - if 9 weeks 4/4/4 and week 9 is flush 10 week Table Week 1 4ml Root Juice Week 2 2ml F Week 3 3ml F Week 4 3 ml FG / 2ml B Week 5 3ml FG / 3ml B / 1ml TM Week 6 4ml FG / 3ml B / 2ml TM Week 7 4ml G / 4ml B / 3ml TM Week 8 4/4/4 Week 9 4/4/4 Week 10 Flush - If 11 weeks 4/4/4 and week 11 Flush I haven't checked my Ph for over a year ^^ so you can skip that, if you use rain water. If you kill your plants.. don't come running to me. Those tables takes no prisoners and on the 8 week table you might very likely run into yellow tips.. half the feeding amount for 1-2 feedings or give pure water. Then resume with the same dosage. If it comes back, your strain might not need that much.. some strains are very hungry out there, some are not ^^ And 1ml means 1ml.. not 2 not 3 or 4, the 5 is totally out of question be as accurate as you can be and use your common sense.

No insomnia issues with a 50/50 harvest but if you want to have a productive day.. wrong selection

I harvest day smoke at 10% amber and my evening relaxers or desert smokes at 50% amber

I just harvested a Bubblelicious indoor set.. I took them very very late and the weed packs a really heavy punch. The passion fruit taste you get also on the indoor versions in the smoke taste, delicious! Have people declaring it the strongest weed they ever smoked I smoke for 32 years.. and I avoid it, if I want to be somewhere productive. But fixes my insomnia issues every time ^^ I ran mine on 20/4 light circle, BioBizz Week1: 4ml root juice per liter Week2: 2ml Fish mix Week3: 3ml Fish Mix Week4: 3ml Fish Mix/Grow rotation per feed, 2ml Bloom Week5: 3ml Fish/Grow, 3ml Bloom, 1ml Top Max Week6: 4ml Fish/Grow, 3ml Bloom, 2ml Top Max Week7: 4ml Fish/Grow, 4ml Bloom, 3ml Top Max Week8: 4ml Grow, 4ml Bloom, 4ml Top Max (this is 4/4/4, Not rotating with Fish anymore) Week9: 4/4/4 Week10: 4/4/4 Week11: 4/4/4 Week12: 4/4/4 Week13: 4/4/4 Week14: Flush, water only Week15: Flush Week16: Harvested at start 16 (very much 50/50, amber/white)

You forgot marijuanaseeds.co.za The nirvana sa shop is one of the fastest and most reliable shops i dealt with

I would suggest a blurple to a newbie before a HID setup. The lamps with cooling build in have one factor to worry less for a new grower. But over all, going LED is rather cheap these days. I even stopped using heat sinks on my new QBs.. just not warm enough to put one on. The heavy part are the drivers.. just check at digi-key from time to time when they have a shipping special.. they fork out free express world wide from time to time. Then you get the drivers very cheap. QBs.. 31$ for 1: 0.6x0.6cm area, 2 for 1.2x0.6, 4 for 1.2x1.2. calculate 120w per board per driver and i wouldn't go more then 2 boards per driver.. so 240w drivers or single lamps 120w. I paid 62$ at the time at digi-key for one driver (240w).. free shipping. The most simple version of a Quantum Board setup for a 1.2x1.2 area will set you back 4 x 31$ (around, just look and you will find) + shipping (express around 50-70$) and 2 x 62$ for the drivers. Lets say 320$.. about 5300 Rand plus customs. Switching the lights on.. will eat 1000 Rand a month. There should also be no panic to build the stuff together.. as long as you are able to understand the difference between + and - ... both written on each device rather clear, you can't ruin your stuff Those are naked QBs.. they will need a little air stream.. but I ignore the heat sink. I use 3000k + 660nm version in my grow setup I have now both versions 301B and H. Also in different light configurations.. Bars, 4 QB closed lamp and single QBs. My health issues kept me from sneaking around on my four.. but I can move again without harsh pains. I want to write a little guide in regards LED light configurations and hanging distance. Depending on grow space, some lamp configurations will make your life easier.. some much harder. And as not many have access to a quantum flux meter, I started to test, if I can translate the results to a normal lux meter free app for your phone.. I do not run apple.. sorry for that in advance. Results will be on android devices. My main issue, I do not publish any numbers, if I can't reproduce them on a totally different setup. Numbers would be useless if they are different. Friend is done with his batch in 1-2 weeks, then I take my numbers over and see if I get about the same readings as on my setups. He uses different tent producer but the same trays, 2 QB configurations, one bar lamp and one 4 QB closed configuration, each for 1.2x1.2, same as my stuff. I think this would help a lot to handle your main cost producer more efficient. Building a lamp, shouldn't scare you at all is rather easy. Time for home HID setups is over (my opinion).. suggesting a new grower a HID lamp.. is a bit questionable. The grow shop seems to "suggest" what they want to get rid off.. putting a HPS in your tent might end in a foxtail party (is not the good kind of party ) You want to go LED.. you really really wanna do that I agree very much with the rest in here

Keep the youngsters on the wet side. To much would be a standing water swamp... give a few ml a day. Put a moisture dome over to keep humidity high and prevent total dry out of the top soil. Keep it warm.