TheUltimateNoob

The Black Fire is still looking sad guys... There is a very slight improvement, but it's still bad... They're due for a feed tomorrow... Not sure what to do with this one though... The Inzane is moving along just fine. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

I've used them... Pretty nice - but limited - selection and fast shipping They've been around for a while Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

So I've flushed the Black Fire with, if I remember correctly, over 70L of 65ppm water at pH 5.8-6.0, about 3-5L at a time, with a big soak of around 8L every 3-4 regular flushes. The first flush came out at a severe 1100ppm. I continued to flush the medium and it stayed around 115ppm for 3 flushes after a while so I called it a day. I did a single flush on the Inzane and the water came out 1ppm higher than what went in. I'll use double the nute solution volume next feed to hopefully sort out whatever is left in the Black Fire medium. Both runoffs were at a pH 6.5 so the soil is doing its job and buffering out the feeds to the right pH, and the trees were treated exactly the same so I'm not sure what went wrong honestly. Will update with some pictures in a few hours. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info, haven't read through the links yet but I sure will.I've never had root temps causing an issue before, but I had to check so I stuck some probes in the soil and took pictures of all my readings... Root temps are a bit lower than optimal and the tree on the left is placed next to the intake, hence the lower temp I'm assuming. They also got watered not too long ago and the problem tree got a proper flush so the mediums are pretty soaked right now. Will update on the flush in a separate post. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Thanks everyone! You guys are awesome. The lights are due to come on in just over 3 hours so I'll wait for then, then get the flushing... Lol. I'll try raising the pots a slight bit off the floor to see if it makes a difference, and I'll test the runoff later as well. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Might just go with these for my DIY fixture. Free overhaul, nice warranty. Which ones did you get? Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Morning!... Sorry I was mistaken... With my dark cycles during the day, my temps rarely go below 20C. 15C was air temp on my external thermometer measuring the air in the garage. With lights on, the temps in the tent are around 24-28C. Measurements are across 2 digital thermometers, I've checked them against like 5 or 8 other digital ones I have (the little ones with hygrometers for jars) Some of them vary by about 1-2C. They're decently accurate. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Lights are off right now... I run the dark cycle during the day to keep temps a bit stable. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

No I don't use one... I don't think I see anything less than 15°C air temp inside the tent, max gets to around 28 with humidity between 50-70%... Not sure about the roots, will have to stick a thermometer in the soil for a while Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Yeah my suspicion is that the yellowing is my issue here, and the droopy leaves is just her having not recovered from the abuse yet... The lockout is just making it look worse Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Yeah bro I used to feed according to this soil pH absorption chart I've attached for a while (because the medium is pH balanced at 6.5) before I got the suggestion to follow Hydro pH levels. I didn't have any issues before, even at high ppms - I've hit 1000 by accident for a week once - I think changing the pH kinda f*d me over just a little bit, but this looks more like a lockout issue now after reading through everything... The feedings have been around pH 6 for over a week... This may have given the opportunity for P to lockout Mn according to the hydro pH chart... Wouldn't make sense with the soil chart unless the P just caused a lockout due to toxicity. They're due for a drink tomorrow so I think I'll flush with 5L of pH'd water each, measure runoff pH and ppms, then flush again if necessary and give them a low dose of Micro... (was supposed to be water only) Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Thanks bro. I'm also leaning towards Mn deficiency... The pH wouldn't have allowed for uptake efficiently. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Greetings Fam, hope you guys can help me. I can't quite figure this one out... I was thinking K or P excess? Not too sure though. I doubt it's a deficiency because I fed at 800ppm on the 27th - which is whats confusing me. I started the flower ratio with GH Tripack just before first week of 12/12 and that week is just about over. I shifted my pH range from 6.2-6.7 to 5.5-6.1 after receiving a suggestion from@PsyCLown if I'm not mistaken due to my medium being primarily Coco (Freedom Farms Formula 1). After doing some searching and going back into my nutrient logs, I feel like it's a Mn (Manganese) deficiency due to incorrect pH (ph was too high at just above 6) and they were fed on the 24th not long after lights on and halfway through the light cycle in the early hours of the 27th... The 2 feedings before that were at a slightly lower pH but they still weren't low enough to compensate. I haven't went below 5.6 for about 2 weeks. The yellow is coming in from the inside out, with the newer growth being the worst off. Made me think maybe N deficiency but it doesn't look typical and a N deficiency at this ppm level is unlikely, although not impossible. The Inzane bounced back well, but the Black Fire is just looking sad. Yet they receive the same treatment. Maybe the Black Fire is so sad because she hasn't bounced back from the lollipop and the pH issue is making it worse, but I'm really lost. I want to give them a feed tomorrow with Flora Micro only added to about 300ppm at pH 5.3 (it was supposed to be water only but I want to boost Mn uptake). I'll pH my 4 feedings at 5.3; 5.6; 5.9 & 6.2 respectively afterwards, followed by water at pH 5.3 for the plain watering and then repeat the cycle. I'll try to get those numbers as close as I can to try to balance everything out. I added some supporting evidence as to how I got to my conclusion as well as a few shots of the trees. If anyone could let me know if I'm on the right track with fixing the issue, I'd really appreciate it, also any advice pertaining to this specifically from experienced growers would help a lot. This has me stumped. Any thoughts? Apologies if the images are bad quality, had to use Tapatalk to upload them. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Honestly I'd go with import and DIY unless a local company provides a decent enough warranty. This isn't a stab at Master's products or company, don't get me wrong. I'd rather get more boards and bits for the same price with a shorter warranty, so I can make more lights if necessary. If you're importing, spares are gonna be cheap anyway. I would get a board or 2 extra to keep aside just in case. If you're ordering it locally, there's nothing bad I can say really. You'll have a nice product with a company to go to if it starts giving you shit... But no spares or extras. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Thank you for this... I've fixed them Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

I've always thought about doing this... Got a link to a journal or something I could read through with a grow using these?

Greetings everyone. Back with another update; I fed them about half way into their light cycle then proceeded to lollipop and defoliate them. This time it was some proper abuse, lol. I took 4 clones off each tree and stuck them under a humidity dome in my incomplete veg box. Let's see what happens. Here are the before and after shots, as well as some of the clones.

Hopefully Tapatalk leaves this legible at least... But here's the 600w model Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Thanks for this ^ Kingbright has them dirt cheap... If you're willing to sacrifice a little bit of your piece of mind. Lol. R16K is bloody madness... I'm matching up a 320w kit with 4 boards for my DIY rig... The entire thing with shipping is coming to like 6.5k Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

No they won't... What your budget like? Drop me a message, maybe I can help. Also from SA Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

I get everything you're saying. And yeah I guess that would be the only way to actually check if the red spike makes a difference. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

shite... meant @BigBudD , thanks, and apologies. lol

@PsyCLown ah okay, thanks for the info, I forgot that the 301h comes in red... with what I have planned, the fixture will have 3 or 4 boards with 16 red diodes on each board. It may be enough to create a small spike. I did read up a bit on the wavelength some time ago and 660 is optimal for flower so they say. I guess that's why I've been so set on it. I want to spread out PAR more evenly and may get a high power driver so I'm willing to trade off some intensity for the red spike... Honestly I would't know for sure if it would help that much, but I'll do some more reading and make a decision before I pull the trigger. Any idea about the shipping? and @Bakstein420, I'm so sorry for hijacking your thread bro. lol

Thank you so much for all of this, it will definitely help me. I didn't get a chance to get the yeast today so I'll get going on it tomorrow. I might be able to get the valve as well. I'm a bit confused by what you meant with no. 6 I did follow your steps though, I have a chemistry background and know a few microbiologists so I had a base knowledge on the process, my ratios were just way off as I didn't know yeast was this active. I won't lie, it's a fun project. I want to regulate it such that there's always a slight bit of positive pressure inside the generator and collector bottles, and ultimately get the solution to continue producing CO2 for a week or 2. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

@PsyCLown the lm301b & lm301h are the 3000k diodes on your boards - they do come in different K - b is the older version and h is the newer "horticultural" led. The red diodes can be either CREE or Epistar 660nm diodes. Depending where you got the boards from. The UVA diodes are normally LG. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk