Teal Smith

LOL okay I'll stop now ;) haha Okay cool, this only became apparent today, so a budwash wouldn't have been the right treatment here because they were already dry, but maybe a budwash before drying would prevent it from happening in future? Then luckily I have Integra Boost packs (similar thing to Bovidas). They are 55% and 62%. Trouble I'm finding with the 62's are that they are going drier than that, according to my little hygrometer, like 57/58% but I suppose that's not a bad RH to have anyway. On burping, would you or anyone care to share a good baseline technique that I can finetune with time. Like how many burps per day, how long for week 1 , week 2 etc etc. There are 5 trillion different opinions online, hoping experience can give me a better answer. Thanks!

Screwit, I just went ahead and tasted a tiny little bit of Flora Bloom and Grow. They are salty, but subtle. Shit, IDK it could still be nutes on the stems... I'm wiping it off with copper soap solution and paper towel just in case it is mold of some kind (very careful not to get close to buds). Putting it back in the dry tent and getting RH low as possible... Best I can do for now I think

@Psylecta ya man, I thought it was logical haha... So it never tasted like anything, my tongue did have a sort of tingly sensation after where it touched. LOL I'm using the GHE FloraCoco range, not sure they'll taste like anything either... als not sure it's a good idea to put that on my tongue tho LOL... aren't synthetic ionic nutes toxic? No idea LOL (and yep, my plants are hanging and drying like in your picture)

It's worth mentioning I just tasted it with tip of my tongue, thinking that if it's salt, it should taste salty? It does not But not sure if ionic salts taste salty, though? Jury is still out LOL

@Psylecta Yes, actually that makes sense. The 1st one's trichomes started going amber surprisingly early, and so they only had about 6 days of no food, just PH water. So that then makes sense why the 1st ones that went in the dry tent are getting this.... It does seem a little sparkly in the photos, like crystals of some kind, maybe nutes.... The other ones would have had 2 weeks or so flush, and that's why they are clear.... It's a hypothesis at this point but sounds plausible. Having said that I couldn't wait to try some before it was cured and it is very very smooth.... A lot of literature online says it should have been harsh but nope.... actually some of the smoothest I've ever smoked.

Yeah @Psylecta, it does look like it's fungal.... but not 100% sure... Guys I wonder if it could be residual salts/nutrients/similar staying behind as the water leaves the plant? That would tie in with why only the older, drier ones are getting this.... There's still the chance of it being DE, but then the newer fresher ones don't seem to have it.... IDK...

Here's some macros of it, maybe make it easier for ID. At first I thought it was Diatomacious Earth residual dust. But then it wouldn't make sense that it's only the ones that have been in there the longest, and the others are all fine, when I used DE on all of them. Could it be salts or similar? Looks organic and growing to me but I lack the experience

@Ill_Evan Okay thanks. Yes, very handy to know what I'm working with here first LOL @CreX any advice is very appreciated :) I'll hold off on doing anything that can't be taken back in the meantime. For now though, I think the ones that are dry are going to get trimmed into neat little buds and placed into a jar. I'll label it PM so I know to watch for it in that jar especially.

Right now the plan is: 1 - Identify and separate the few that have mold on their stems. These are ready to be cured already. I'll trim the buds nicely and throw them inside jars with Integra Boost packs (I have 55% and 62%). That should keep the humidity low, and starve the PM. Hopefully? Any thoughts here? 2 - The others (most) that are not showing any signs of PM, as far as I can see we have 2 options: Option A is to just cut all stems away, trim down into buds, and finish up the drying process with my DryNet. I was trying to avoid this because flipping buds so they don't go flat sounds time consuming. AND Option B is to make a strong solution of copper soap, then wipe down the stems with it. Try get the RH down in the tent as much as possible and hope it doesn't spike in nature, then hopefully finish the process. I'm just concerned as to how I'm going to stop the PM from spreading inside the jars among the buds.... Eish....

@Bakstein420 Problem is they are ready to be cured as they are dry now. The others not far behind. Washing them and getting them wet again probably not such a good idea?

Morning Gents :D So everything going very well until this morning when I came across this in the drying tent. Firstly, it is PM right? 2ndly, any suggestions on what I should do now? The plants are whole (small plants), been cut and have been drying for 12 days now, snapping when I break the stems to tell me they are ready. The PM is only on the top of a couple stems that are hanging upside down drying. The others are fine for now. I think I caught it early as I never noticed anything yesterday. Drying temp has been between 21 & 24 (figuring ways of getting it colder) and RH has been between 50% & 62% (most of the time it's been at around 52%). We had 2 days last week that were very humid , like 87% ambiently), and it pushed my dry tent RH to about 64% for those 2 days. Probably where it came from. So guys, now what is the best tactic here? I'm very happy with the way my buds turned out and it would be a travesty if PM were to fuck this up right at the last minute! PS - the few that have this PM on their stem are ready to be cured. Is there any way I can stop it spreading to the others that are still hanging, and from spreading inside the curing jar to the buds? I do have a collapsable dry net, should I clip buds off the stems and transfer to that?

Great visual description. Nice one and thanks again

Cheers bud. So is there any application for a wetting agent to go inside grow medium at all? Or strictly for foliar spraying?

Hi guys. I've not worked with wetting agents before. Would I be correct in assuming they are useful for when trying to keep your medium as dry as possible, yet still offering the plants maximum hydration? So, would a wetting agent also work well for watering while having fungus gnats, as another example? Or should one be using a wetting agent throughout the grow?

Thanks for this Prom. I used an Android phone and the Doggo app with my QB bar lights and it seems my estimations were fairly close to your findings on the Photometer Pro App, no idea how close the Lux readings will be between the 2 apps. Anyway, for Germination I had it on 15K - 18K Lux, Veg - 40K-45K and flower was around 63K (Max @ around 40cm away, guess I can move them a bit closer as they run quite cool). I'll fine tune that closer to your recommendations next time. Will also try out the app you work with. Cheers

@Orcanic sorry bud, it was not my intention to hijack your post :D haha have a good grow my man, keep us posted!

@ORGANinc. Thanks alot man :) Really appreciate that :D The GSC & LSD was around 8.5 weeks. AK closer to 9.5 - 10 weeks, actually I still have 1 or 2 growing that aren't quite ready. But that LSD is the one from FastBuds, a total winner. Will definitely work with this strain again.

@Orcanic Hey bud, I'm just finishing up my 1st auto grow now. My buds came out okay (a mix of LSD, GSC, AK x Crit Mass) though I don't have any final weights yet as they still drying. Some things I found handy along the way: I'd also heard that autos don't respond well to HST but I experimented anyways by topping and FIMming 1 of each just to see how they turned out. They were stunted for sure, and never produced as much as most of the normal ones that were not topped or FIMmed. Well, on those 2 phenos on these strains it wasn't worth it, at least. The topped one looked worse than the FIMmed one. Maybe on other strains it works better, IDK... I did however defoliate the plants a few times throughout the grow to keep the bottom tidy and clear for lower RH and better airflow (and easier watering). Also I removed any leaves that never looked healthy. All in all I'd say I removed the branches up to the 6th or 7th node, but not all at once, maybe 3 or 4 sittings. This is also called lollipopping. Also on training, I gently tucked the fan leaves under the bud sites so that buds are more exposed to the light. It's kind of like training but not quite. My plants responded well to this. If you want the bottom branches to grow taller, don't cut the corresponding fan leaf below it. This helps create an even canopy. All of mine were in 5L fabric pots, never transplanted. Seeds went straight into pots. Despite the small pots the yields per plant seem pretty decent. I must say it's a pleasure to handle them in the smaller pots, makes many things easier At the end I got fungus gnats, as is so common. It was a bummer, but lucky I harvested before they fucked things up. I hear adding cinnamon to your medium in the beginning stops them from ever laying eggs. to begin with. @DamDave says he's had good success with this. I'll be doing this next time Other than that keep your temps and RH on point throughout the various stages. Try not to let them fluctuate if possible. The more stable the better. Never let it get hotter than 26 deg C as it damages terpenes. Try keep it at 20 deg or close during flower and 45% RH if you can. Remember the 48 hrs dark at the end. I'm still learning. Some might disagree with a few of these methods but they seemed to help me. Happy growing man :) Below pics of autos, top 2 bottom: LSD25, GSC, AK x Critical Mass, GSC, AK x Crit Mass

Happy Sunday everyone :) An update re the gnats... The extreme drying out and DE & then the H202 and Silicon Plus when watering seems to have kept the gnats under control. It's worth mentioning that both the H202 and Silicon have really low EC (full doses of both only brought my EC to 0.1), so worked out fine as I wanted to avoid any type of feeding while girls are finishing up. I noticed an especially big difference when I increased my usual low dose of Silicon to the recommended dose on the bottle. Some pots still have the larvae moving about when I add small amounts of water... This is day 5 since I discovered the larvae and so they should turn into gnats soon... But most of the girls are almost done now so so about to put them into their 2 days of dark. I'm thinking even if the gnats emerge they won't have much time to screw things up too badly. ...and the Margaret Roberts Insectacide for the gnats hasn't arrived yet. So the jury is still out on that one but I hear really good things. Next time I'll be adding cinnamon to the medium and hope to avoid this altogether.

@PsyCLown I'm hoping that the high dose of Pyrol I gave 2 days ago will kill the adults as they emerge (if all the other stuff doesn't already), or soon after, soon enough before they can lay more eggs. And as a double stop, apparently Pyrol kills eggs on contact too, so that should catch them also. I may need to spray the surface with it again in about a week. Another idea I had was buying predatory bugs and introducing them into the tent. Not sure if you've had experience with this? or if there is even a bug that'll work against gnats... But I'm thinking this would probs work better for pests that sit on the leaves and stems rather than under the medium's surface.

Unfortunately I've already given 1 or 2 girls in dire straights a little bit of water to tide over until tomorrow. Nice thing is that I never saw nearly as many larvae, most with none at all, so I think they are dying.

@GGG I love this idea! Will try it out. I guess the pots only need to be submerged a few cms and the bottom roots will deliver. Very good idea. Thanks

@DamDave thanks for that! I was actually going to ask you how much you use. Cheers, will try next time I mix my medium before potting. Sounds like a much easier way to prevent the gnats, and seems to have other benefits too from what you were saying yesterday