ORGANinc.

Ya you want to be careful with autos, I don't grow many autos but I think best practice is to try maintain consistent environments. Then heat is a factor that is very situational, so what light do you plan on using? and does it give off heat, if so, you could possibly use it to heat up the environment. Also you could run the lights at night to keep the temps in a good range.

about 2 weeks, I'm writing off the Lotus head x wilson this is an unknown pheno, which is already too stretchy for me. Will probably just clone the crepes and the GG#4. The Wilson X slurri is dominating with her compact structure, may also clone her, but still got seeds.

Almost there bro, another week or 2 You won’t regret it

Nice work so far bro, the wall heater will be perfect, try connect to a sonoff switch th16

I’m waiting for @SkunkPharm seeds then I will be planting some autos

This Is why I opted for the 1,2x0,6... I could grow 4 plants in there and average 40g per plant in half the space. Still not exactly happy with this yield though. I suppose that's also why bigger plants need bigger space. And a longer Veg period, of the uphill battle.

Yeah I can't disagree with you, however, These diodes will only ever be used at 75% power and that's for first 3/4 weeks of flower. Other than that, I run them 40/45%. yes they still less efficient. But at a 3rd of the price and concisely limited usage, they fit my purpose.

Board only, no driver, no heatsink, no dimmer, no import costs, probably looking closer to a R1400

This is informative for the new grower, but I really think anybody who is considering a budget should rid themselves of the fear and just go buy lights from alibaba, I need to buy new boards because one of them has an issue, and I’m picking up a lm281b 125w board only for 9 dollar, like wtf Anyway, that’s just my opinion, then tent size can be increased because of the money saved, more watts and more space, what else do you need.

Just about 1 week in.

Both Gg#4 dried and smoked, happy with both, no massively noticeable differences, except experiment one was a bit rougher on the throat, may need to cure, also shorter high, but that could also come with longer cure. Gg #4 control So the experiment has come to an end, just cut both sugar widows and they ended with very similar structure Sugar widow control Sugar widow experiment (fed nutes) I’m most impressed with the sugar widow strain, they both stole the show out of the lot I was growing, will update with yeilds. so far it’s looking like experiment plant will be yielding higher

I would cut the plant down. Looks good, well done

Ill let you in on a little bit of a secret, the best version available is gotta be Biocult Mycorrhizal from Hydroponic, it has a few specialized species that I've had my eye on for some time. I have not purchased it yet as I still have my trusty generic granular version from hydroponic. But a little fun fact, apparently people have done some microscope work on how the different grades of mycos spores populated and the powdered forms have the amazingly better hit rates. But why would that come as a surprise, we all know about surface area by now surely. Anyway its not cheap either. there are other more affordable granular version there too.

Ya then poor about 2l of water through the soil, plant some cover crops while you do that. What this will do is lower CEC in the soil, like how @Naughty.Psychonaut explains if the TDS is too high it definitely wont be beneficial to start a plant in that soil. Now we know for a fact that which ever way the inconsistencies fall in Orgasoilux, none of that matters, it will always be Jam packed with nutrient, as it is a super nutrient dense soil. Now when a soil oxides, and has many nutrients, they are more pronounces, because the soil is dry. For seeds and young plants, you want to cushion the initial nutrient blow, by doing what I suggested. There are more advanced steps one can take before plant that make it even more favorable for the roots, like watering with humic and fulvic acids, they are not nutrient dense so don't think about it like food, but more like the master keys in gardening, they allow the chelation of literally hundreds of nutrients, basically enforcing everything to place nice, almost like the cops who direct traffic when the robots are broke. Then also innoculating with Mycorrhizal. This is scientifically proven to be the biggest dollar return investment a farmer can make at initial planting as the benefits are astronomical. As the roots grow a vast colony of beneficial fungi grow with it increasing root growth exponentially. Then even trace minerals can be added, but not with Orgasoilux, too much nutrient there. Just a few to mention

Please bud don't let me put you off getting the tools and having the information, its all learning curves and it will always be helpful, I've just gotten to a stage where the information in my scenario, isnt super helpful. If you using Orgasoilux, Make sure to wet the soil thoroughly before planting. until a bit of runnoff comes out, I would say around 25% watering. No plants in there obviously, then wait till that soil is ready to plant, in about a week or so, shouldn't be like wet wet, but moist-ish, then only water when pots are light light.... GOODLUCK bud!

Ahhh instagram, I do not dabble unfortunately, I got enough scrolling vises for now.

Hello @CreX time to come out from where ever you have been, okay thank you, see you soon

There will always be inconsistencies potting soils, Okay let me say craft cannabis soils but the person who is growing his first plant doesn't even know where to start, let alone test EC and PH and what is all means. I think just those 2 things are far over many peoples heads is what im saying. Its the grow stores fault, always insisting you need every nutrient on the shelf, the best thing any person could do when starting out, is just get some CRAFT cannabis soil and water the dam thing. Hone in on how the plant grows, how the colour of the plant changes as it grows, then figure out where the needs are developing, we all want to be ahead of the curb and have fast growing plants from the start, but this is always brings about the deficiencies caused by excess. A backlog of nutrients is always the problem. Its just like our social food culture, we are never needing when it come to food lol and that shit comes to bite us in the end, when we all but prematurely withering away, luckily nobody has to smoke us. I always try preach the same thing to any new grower, just water the plants. if they need something, they will show it, if not post some pics and we can recommend some food stuffs.

If a new grower wants to grow successfully first time round. They can buy any potting soil and talborn green and red topdresses. No tools, no happy clappy dances. Just a winning formulae.

Because i'm not happy with just good, where your ppm test tells you how many total dissolved solids, I want to know how much of each nutrient is available from each of those solids.

Having the privilege or not, I decided after using tap water for sometime, more than a year and a half, that rain water would be better and from reading much literature, it is better, I slapped a small jojo under the pipe and zipp tied one of the 200micron filters ram filters so that the water doesn't have much debris. Plus I use blumats so I try to keep it clean, as this should come without mentioning. Things take time, mistake will always be made with new growers, getting everything right first time is almost impossible as we all know. My advice to a new grower and the way things work for me are the same thing, I always say what works for me, and also what involves the least amount of effort for me, as I like my growing the be the least labor intensive. But that doesn't mean people will listen, people want to take the long way around, that's fine, we all did it at some point in time. Then another thing we all know, is that there is more than 1 way to skin a cat. I'm only just learning that my way is not always the right way, even if the plants are happy, people can get happy plants with different methods.

Also don't PPM anything. I've done a soil test twice. My CEC is always just under max after reamends

I don't pH because I don't use much fertilizers, if any. Also using rainwater. My soil PH at the beginning of a run is always at a desirable 6,9 noting the higher nitrate levels for a decent start to veg. Having one fixed number for pH is not always correct, as the Ph in the rhizosphere generally changes throughout growth periods, ending in a more acidic ph. If ever I was forced into a corner and had to use tap water, I would use it without pH'ing it and just letting it sit for 24hour, because your will notice the pH drop to a suitable range without adding any chemicals, if you are fertilizing, you are on your own. I have my style of growing, and my soil is more than 3 years old, with consistent love and care it gets better by day.

Howzit Mense, oooow I have a good feeling about the present, I think you all do. We are uniting to find a position of prosperity in the current cannabis culture, and it’s amAzeballs I might add. maybe the wool is over my eyes, but baaaa baaaa Alrighty, we have budrot, main bud on the sugar widow that was looking the best, so we chopped the kop and still fighting the good fight. Geez I don’t know how long it’s been, but maybe another week or so. I need to feed the other one again, I think I underfed the plant to be honest, anyway. then the Wilsonxlhead and Wilsonxslurri pictured below, man this slurri cross is a dam winner, the sweetest smells I have ever, so glad to be rerunning her, then the Lhead cross, is like superman weed, you’ll be doing lots of shit around the house (pictured first by that distinct sativa structure) then in order top to bottom crepes, lhxwilson, slurrixwilson, gg#4 (flower time!) All the best!