Weskush

Baking soda has been proved by many gardeners to be effective in treating powdery mildew. Mix 1 teaspoon baking soda in 1 litre of water. Spray plants thoroughly, as the solution will only kill fungus that it comes into contact with. Milk spray is another effective home remedy. Then take cuttings before the plant starts flowering.

My environment has an avg humidity of 60 - 70% hence the reason for wet trimming, seperating buds from stem and placing in drying net. Turning buds daily to minimize flat spots. This method reduces the risk of mold. Was thinking of hanging whole plants to dry after trimming all fan and non sugar leaves but this poses a very real risk of mold infestation. I do run a fan though but nonetheless. Just curious which method is the most popular and if the two methods have an effect on taste etc in the end product, without taking the vital curing process in consideration.

Which drying method do you prefer? Hang drying or drying racks/nets?

In case you haven't seen it

Got the Hella Jelly going myself. Fire strain apparently

Sour Apple Auto - Humboldt Seed Company - Autoflowering | Overgrow (cannabisseeds.co.za) Some fia strains to choose from

The living soil route takes time and patience. The first process is leaving the blended soil to cook under a tarp or bin for a minimum of 4 weeks to activate microbial life and breaking down of elements. Super soil run very hot which makes the cooking process vital. After this process the soil must be amended on occassional basis. Bone meal, bat guano etc. Different amendments gets absorbed at different rates. No instant fix here. Check out "super soil recipes" on the net. Synthetics is not sustainable while with living soil, if you keep the microbial organisms alive in the medium, can be used repeatedly and gets better with time. Regarding container size. Ideally 100L or more in fabric pots or a grow bed. With fabric pots the dry out happens much faster than with a grow bed which requires constant monitoring to prevent destruction of microbial life in the soil.

Ive had some strains fading really early and some extremely late. I personally think that genetics also plays a big role in the way the flowering process expresses itself. I wouldnt stress too much. Keep feeding bloom nutes as suggested because if you are going to up the N, you are most probably going to end up with all kinds of complications and even more new leaf growth and that is not what you want at this stage of flowering. Just my opinion.

I started off with the salt based nutes. Rather expensive but the plants ended up decent. My last 2 grows i went the homemade supersoil route and not looking back at all. Way less maintenance and zero deficiencies plus ive got some cash to spare on genetics. Also take into account that ive only grown outdoor.

Those are some lekker trees bru! Caging wouldve saved you loads of tears. Anything over 6ft, caging is a must.

Thanks for the info brotherSoaking it all in.

@Totemic purely to educate myself and determining which approach would be the most effective in stabilizing a chosen genetic line. Which method is used in which circumstances? Or is it an approach of " many ways to skin a cat"? PS. Found this High Times article: "If you want to save all your cultivars, S1 everything. You will have pure versions of those clones only in feminized seed form. When you hunt those seeds, you can find the same traits and exact same examples of the mother plants you’re reversing, plus you might find versions that are even better. S1’s will have the same exact phenotypes that you reverse, plus it will have other unique versions. You can find some better versions of the clone-only mom in the S1’s. If you are trying to save your genetics for a long [time], S1′ s might be the way to go."

Hi breeders or those in the know. Can anyone advise me on filial breeding vs backcrossing, Squaring and Cubing? According to my understanding there will be much more diversity with filial breeding (especially F2 generation) than with back crossing but with back crossing there is much more stability or rather uniformity of the desired traits from the mother. Back crossing seems to be the most effective way to achieve a desired line if you have the original mother of course. Releasing a F1 line then would purely be due to time/space constraints and/or diversity being offered? Please feel free to correct me on my terminology or (mis)understanding of breeding. Cheers

I would like to reserve cuttings from the Golden Apple pls before you forget again haha!

Go big or go home bru! Yewww

Bleach?

To take it even a step further. Qure can be approached to sponsor a full test on buds entered. But thats probably getting a bit technical. Would be cool though.

As long as there is evidence eg photos that you grew the bud yourself it should work. Every entry gets say a nr and you take a pic with that nr with your chosen strain from before hsrvest to post harvest if possible.Easy peazy

Im saying that you submit your bud of choice from your strain of choice. Regardless of medium, growing method etc. Keep it as simple as possible.

I'd say whatever. As long as your submitted bud is your pride n joy brother

A fire bud is a fire bud bru

I'd say 1 chosen strain per entry

This could work just lekker. Some pics to prove that they grew it themselves would keep things fair.

Ja we can keep it simple. Forum members send their nugs from this season's outdoor or indoor say by June to allow a good cure for the outdoor. Not 50 fkn grams of course...and the judges judge.Your own strain would allow for nice diversity if things can be kept honest which i trust would be the case here. Easy. Fun and lekker