Marzcanna

Best thing to use is reverse osmosis. You start with a base of 5-10ppm and you baiscly add what you need

Im currently using biodyne, used to use it with oxygenated water (all my water is oxygenated) but now I ll throw some of it into my teas while brewing. Can't say I see much of a difference between using biodyne or just brewing teas. Some of you seemed to like cmc, might look into it, umyas moss blend is anther option I've seen around

This might be slightly off topic but since we are talking about elemental blends and organics, we can't ignore the importance of MICROBES aswel, so what do you guys think of Biodyne? And specifically adding it to your teas? Is it maybe over kill?

Looking good brother, your mq-500 caught my eye. Been looking for a decent meter for awhile

Do you plant seed in to that mix or transplant?

Unfortunately the reality is that if you do not have any documents proving that something / idea is legitimately yours, than it's not. I own a couple of businesses myself and I have had ideas stolen / copied by my competitors, it's baiscly the same thing we seeing here, I didn't have any documentation to prove its my ideas, so technically it's their word against mine, today their business is pumping millions and if I'm to say that business copied some of my ideas people will laugh at me because of being the much smaller business. It's the reality of things and unfortunately how some people work. @Totemicunfortunately can not prove its his own strain and therefore they can easily claim it as their own especially if they do get documents for it, it may be your idea, your strain, your hard work but in court of law those papers say otherwise. It's sucks I know that better than anyone else

Agreed. That's where mixing your own soil comes with huge benefits, you know exactly the amounts of what you put in the soil and with trial and error you can eventually have a soil that will in most cases will push through flowering. Knowing what the plants are needing is key in organics thats why I do not advise new growers to try organics, with synthetics its easier to fix with flushing and also plants react faster to synthetics, with organics if something does go wrong, we looking at removing the plant from the medium rather than flushing in most cases, and trying to fix things can take up to a few days so it's important to try get things dial in from the start. I don't want to discard elemental blend from the topic, I do believe it can get the job done if you tweek it abit, from my only run with it last time I would diffinatly add abit more nitrogen around 4 weeks, possibly bone meal or more worm castings, in my situation my plant wasnt getting enough nitrogen during flower and diffinatly wasn't potassium, @GGGadds more castings which leads me to believe that maybe the blend could do with a better nitrogen source . Still I did get a decent harvest, not perfect but as I said if you know what you doing and tweak it abit you can have a good product

I usally mix my own soils to good effect but Ive been getting lazy in recent years, one of the reasons why I moved away from synthetics and into organics for its laid back style. However amending each ingredient can also take alot of time which I'm looking to cut out by using dirty hands elemental blend. Now altho it has everything I usally mix I don't know the ratios they use, I did experiment with it before but mid way through flower my plant started to turn yellow, I would say the reason was due to top dressing too late. My question is how long does the Elemental blend last for example in a 20L or 30L before you need to reamend to be able to push through flower?

In simple terms, they say never let your coco dry so that salts don't build up in your coco, if you feed until runoff and test your runoff EC most of the times your nutes are higher than the input solution, that is because salts are being flushed out,also all the research I have done all suggests the main reason why they say not to water with clean PhD water and rather with a light feed is because of the caution sites leaching on to calcium and not allowing it to be available to the plant, atleast that's what I understand, however I have done for a very long time the water/feed/water/feed with no issues

They got a few products on alibaba with a min order of 1 piece. Definitely a good buy especially if @ORGANinc.Confirms the quality to be worth it

I would suggest that, altho i would give it water after every feed eg. feed/water/feed as my personal preference but you can also do feed/feed/water

I agree with you, it really depends on the grower, I prefer runoff with water rather than with feed like you mentioned before but when i grew with synthetics & coco there were grows i did a hydro style feeding 4 times a day every day, so i would feed until run-off & that was only because i wasn't giving plain water like the traditional ("water / feed / water") method. But if @PippinTook isnt feeding everyday and can squeeze water days into the schedule than I would do it to push out the salt build up & save on nutes. At least to my understanding

Don't worry to much about underwatering, that's how mistakes happen we worry to much about underwatering so we overwater and vice versa we worry about overwatering so we underwater, gota find that balance . A few dry cycles are good and you will learn to read your plants, they will tell you when they hungry or thirsty. The pot lift is the way most of us do it but anther easy way when in doubt is to put your finger about an inch down the medium if it's dry you can water lightly. Also your plants will not die if you go a few days without watering. If your leaves seem droppy and lifeless after a few days of no watering than it's a sign they need it. They will spring back to life after a few mins of watering. Feeling the pot and and reading your plants is the best way to know when to water. You can't go with a fixed schedule such as watering every 3 days because not all phenos are the same some might be heavier feeders than others while others not so much that will require frequent / less feeding/watering for different phenotypes

Technically If it's barely tied and is just supporting the stem it should be fine but I agree with @CreX& @420SAit's best to use garden ties or try not to tie seedlings at all by supplying a better light that will limit your stretch

Previous lights were just a review run, they good for veg and you can technically flower, so they good entry lights if you on a budget. I bought the Leon 200 for this grow room last month and just decided to fit in an old Mars Hydro SP 250. Might actually keep this grow room with these two lights for the next run

Quick Garden Update. The girls are at start of week 6 and not looking too bad. But I thought the time for experimenting and reviewing was over and so it was time to remove the burples that weren't too bad until now but honestly..they have served their purpose. it was time to bring out the Mars Hydro SP to help out the Leon 200 finish up this grow

I guess if you growing organic than basalt and barley would be the best options and there wouldn't be a need to supplement anymore silica. I will add a little bit more basalt in my next mix

I started with an international product called "Silica Blast" and than after doing some research and gathering some homemade recipes and tweaking it I moved away from the product. At the time I was hugely into coco and synthetics (hydro style) so I would mix silica in water and let it set for about 2 hrs with no added chemicals except for phing solution (no base nutes or anything else added) I would feed it once a week with no issues. Stems became stronger and "bendy" which allowed me to LST even to some "extreme" angles, which also helped me to avoid "Topping" and focuss more on LST and Supercropping. Yields did increase but I can't say it a direct effect of silica or more likely the ability to train the plant more effectively

There's a silica recipe you can make at home, its what ive used for years with coco. There's similar recipes on the net, Maybe I ll create a thread for it and you guys can try it out with soil. As i mentioned before silica has huge benefits but as @ORGANinc. & @The_StonedTrooper also mentioned it can also cause problems in soil, however there numerous growers using it with soil with extremely good results. I have covered abit of info on the matter with the international guys and it seems like its a 50/50 debate aswel. Im convinced enough to try it in soil at 1/4 dosage and take it from there only because i have seen good results in coco. i will run one plant in soil using silica and we will see what type results appear

I also phd the silica solution and used half strength when growing in coco also with no issues. Do you think I will be safe doing the same with soil?

Makes sense. I was planing on using it in soil aswel but now you guys have made me wary of it

I admit i have only used silica with coco with no issue, as for soil 100 percent correct soil already has silica but there are growers using it in soil with great success, i have not tried it in soil myself to be able to comment on it tho

Yea you could go with that route and than use the current net for the stretch. Look into using silica in your grows, Its said to strengthen plant cells making bending & (LST) a lot easier without worrying of snapping.

This makes sense. Looks like you have some phenos worth keeping

What's your method on sex revealing? Do you let them grow & reveal sex normally, stress by training to force them to reveal sex early or do you flower early and than revert back to veg once you have identified sex and selected the ones you want? Edit: Early Flower (sorry didn't read all post)