Twix Aphen

I'm searching for hortimix threads to see how other people figured it out. I will be feeding it onto the soil, so use a bit less than the full hydro doses. The sheet from Hortishop is for hydro level EC and its chart has ever increasing N going right through flowering. Another thing that stood out is that the distributors recommended choice for bloom boosting, is different to MKP. Potassium sulphate is high in K, with no P in it. Compare that to Hygrotech which uses lower levels of nutrient for their A/B ratio and Potassium Nitrate instead of MKP. Its even higher in K, with no P or S in it.

Kelpak v Cosmoroot. These 4 clones have got good roots by they look a bit sad now. They got neglected in the tray and haven't been fed enough, but they will do for this comparison. I think the Cosmo root will probably work better because it has more nutes, let's see what happens. When I start flowering then I change the npk ratio from 5-3-5 over to 6-2-8. I give smaller doses and now feed twice a week, so there is a more constant supply of food available. I will continue using gypsum till week 5 and stop all feed 1 week before harvest. The next thing I want to compare is organic v hydro fertiliser. I can feed only 3 plants for 20 weeks with a box of granules, which costs R100 at Stodels. I can probably feed at least 10 plants with 1 KG of these powders, which is R100 from Hortishop. I think the plants will do better with the hydro nutes, but I wouldn't be surprised if I get the predictions wrong. During 12/12 the plan with this hortimix is to use equal parts of A & B, but not go over 10 mls each (1.4 EC). If I use the MKP then I would drop the Part A down to 8 ml and give 2 ml as a supliment. That'll be between weeks 3-5 and then go back onto A & B, but taper it down after week 6. The final week would be just plain water. The next side by side will be fabric pots v plastic containers, for flowering. I know the fabric ones use more water, but I also want to see if I can get a higher yield.

After a week without feed they have begun to go light green. They've had a little flush and are looking hungry now.The chlorine v no chlorine testPotted up to 3 litre bags and put on some barley. I was given a few mites to sprinkle onto the plants, apparently they'll chow the spider mites. the next round of Hash Plant x Blueberrythis weeklast week

This week I've caused some more tip burn and clawing. It's either the salty coco, or too much Nitrogen.  Everything has been sprayed quite heavily over the last couple of weeks. I don't increase the dosage of neem and garlic, but I increase the frequency to every 3 days, when the bugs are around. I find that a spray of fish mix (1-2 ml) helps with the bugs, but that could've also caused the problem with the burnt tips. When things get all out of whack then I just give plain water and half a teaspoon of gypsum. I took all the raddish out and removed any rotting debris from the pots. The big Buddha cheese girls came out for a hair cut and inspection. 3 distinct phenos and they all smell strong, when I rubbed them. With Mycorootno mycoroot Once they hit the top of the canes (1.2 m) I will start flowering.

Good shout too. It could be any of the micro elements mentioned. Your soil, fish emulsion and worm juice may have been a bit strong a that stage. They are pulling out of it now and looking much better I know what Nitrogen toxicity looks like because some of my clones are showing the claw leaves. I backed off with the feed for a week and just gave them water. I first search through Google Image and look for similar pictures.

It looks like it. They are growing very fast now too

What do you think? Its the first thing that came to mind. Locked out by too much nitrogen? https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/molybdenum-deficiency-in-poinsettia Molybdenum toxicity will also exaggerate purpling in late flower. Only tiny amounts like 1-2 ppm.

Nice selection of varieties going in here. Does the resinous one have much of a smell yet?

Continually removing the lower leaves works for me. I pluck away any lower bud sites too.

It looks like Popeye's bicep

I should've said add the pH balanced Agrisil to your ph balanced nutrient res. That article recommends adding a little diluted Agrisil to the res, wait an hour and then add a little more. Slowly introduce the pH balanced Agrisil, into your res over the course of a day. First step, add your agrisil to the 5 litres of water. 2nd step, dilute your pH down drops and then add to the diluted Agrisil, until you get to the same pH as your res. Step 3, slowly add your pH adjusted Agrisil, into your pH adjusted nutrient tank. Pour in a litre, mix it and wait an hour, before adding another litre. Extra step, Work out how many ppms of K and Si you are adding to your res and adjust your feeding accordingly.

Try diluting the potassium sillicate, before putting it into the res. pH balance it and then add the ferts. What a mission! https://manicbotanix.com/silicon-in-hydroponics/

You were right. The website says that the packet (150 g ) is enough for 300 litres. I think it is, biltong and buds were selling the seeds and a very kind member of this forum passed it on to me.

Hi there, have you used any of their stuff before? Its chemical fertilizer, but it's well buffered. I think its pointless trying mycoroot with it, because of the high phosphate content. I've always stuck with kelpak and aminomix for rooting. Every time I've used mycoroot it hasnt made any difference, but aminomix definitely does work wonders for promoting root growth. https://www.humefert.com/results/ I look at what the farmers are doing to the soil and try to adapt their methods for my own garden. My fertiliser contains 50% Carbon and the humic acid is made from potassium humate https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potassium_humate which is high in available Carbon too. https://inteligro.co.za/story.php?pid=262&mid=268&cid=2 "The Carbology® programme focusses on the specific phenological growth stages of the tree/plant and the activation and/or manipulation of the phenological stages with the use of specific bio-stimulants and nutrients combined in a programme. Depending on the climatic influences and orchard management, this programme will be amended and managed during the season to ensure optimal fruit load and quality at harvest. The aim is to ensure the maximum available carbohydrate availability throughout the plant’s life cycle."

Half its then. I also like how they spelled litre.

There's also a video on YouTube somewhere about HAZ Manor and Exodus. @Golden-Goose Sensi seed bank didn't exist until 1991. In 1991, Ben bought the Seed Bank from its owner (another breeder who received the US genetics in the Eighties) and the gene-stock of the two companies was merged to form the Sensi Seed Bank we know today. This person is called Jim Brightside and if I read that weed world story correctly, that would bring it up to 1998/99 when Brightside gave the cheese to Exodus. They made their own crosses and gave them out and then the Exodus collective disbanded in 2000. Some of the popular exodus crosses still around are called Nelly, Jah, Windows, Suicide and Psychosis. They used pollen from other Sensi strains like NL, NL#5 x Haze, Shiva Skunk to make their crosses. @Golden-Goose

A quick midweek update. It's the only girl to show so far. These are f2's of a variety called Zain, from Gage Green Genetics. Its a cross between their ghost og/ad hoc and a male Malawi, from Cannabiogen (Ace Seeds). I threw away 2 males already and am still waiting for pre-flowers to show on the other 2 plants. I got a sample of this root stimulator from the grow shop. Its high in phosphate, along with amino and humic acids. I can't work out if it means 1-2 g per litre , or 0.5 g per litre? I will give it a go with the next round of clones and compare it against the kelpak and aminomix that I use now.

"Exodus Collective was a community collective and sound system formed in 1992" I think he's giving you a story, because the cuttings given out from exodus were all crosses they made with the cheese. "Nelly" was their NL/Cheese cross, for example. They are fantastic breeders and Nibiru is a lucky guy. I'm excited about the big Buddha plants I have, but time will tell. I know that the cheese that came to Cape Town, way back when, was in seed form. The grower had 2 seeds and the one female was what spread like wildfire around town. There were already 2 seedbanks selling cheese pips, before it came down this way. Homegrown fantaseeds were the first and then Big Buddha won a prize at the cannabis cup, in 2005. Any stories of original exodus clones in Cape Town should be taken with a massive pinch of salt.

What did you think of the Big Buddha Cheese? Did you find a keeper, or not? Every seed company has got a different story about the origins of cheese. This OSC company in Barcelona says something about the 1987 cheese. Its all stories to market their pips IMO. Sannie's is one of the best breeders our there. Killing Fields is my favourite from their collection. Are you a sativa lover? I can highly recommend the KF, its top shelf weed.

Calcium and sulphur fall out of suspension when you mix them. The white precipitate is gypsum. Cal mag is mixture of calcium nitrate and magnesium nitrate. There's no Epsom salts in calmag.

These plants are gunning it now, I'm impressed at how big they've stretched up. This is going to be a good yield hopefully.

Good luck with your grow. That looks like a delicious selection. Sannie's has never disappointed me and I'm keen to see how your cheese turns out, compared to my Big Buddha version.

They're looking good and healthy I hope you can meet your deadline in time.

I fed all the plants again this week and just gave them plain water5 3 5 granules and gypsumThe seedlings are becoming treesstill waiting for Pre flowers to show

Best Green works well for rooted clones.Put straight into a 1 litre pot of full strength soil mix