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Jimmy-z

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Everything posted by Jimmy-z

  1. Tbh, I'm not a fan of "driverless" LEDs. Capacitive droppers generate huge amounts of heat & that's just too inefficient. I got some lights from a guy in plumstead that makes them, busy testing them with my 1st tent grow, so far so good. Only 110w wall draw, so I'll see how it goes. The 100w blurple bar I got from him is still running after 3 years. I might put it in the tent if they need a bit more light. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  2. Futurelight might have what you're looking for, I'm not sure of 24v strips, but I've bought a few 12v strips & power supplies just for messing around. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  3. Interveinal chlorosis is usually an iron, zinc or manganese deficiency if not a heat/air/root issue. I would reduce the amount of grow & flower nutes & up the micro a bit Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  4. Jimmy-z

    2nd run

    Nothing will happen, except the cold slows growth & maybe more chance of mildew. I have a few plants in a tent on my back stoep & they seem to be doing just fine. They're protected from the elements & it doesn't get cold enough in CT to kill them Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  5. Same here, I've ordered some seeds for my winter grow last week tuesday, it arrived yesterday. Once my tent arrives from hydroponic.co.za I can start... they've got some really good strains Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  6. Lol. Maybe because it's a mission getting the PH right. I mix & PH mine in a bucket, then add to my reservoir. Also PH up causes the silica to precipitate out, so I have to add more silica if I lowered the PH too much Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  7. Liquid silica... usually this time of year I'm battling mildew & bugs in my outdoor grow. This year I have neither. ;) Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  8. I've been using my SLX v1 for a few years now, no issues apart from being a bit hard to twist if I put too much in it. Almost nothing sticks to the teeth... Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  9. I'd love to give that a try as well. So far copper soap has been my go-to for PM Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  10. Best & worst grow. Bay11 last year, about half way through flowering when the pics were taken. Lost 90% due to mold in the buds while it was still growing :( Humidity was just too high last year Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  11. Always best to start slow. I started with a ppm of 150 & gradually increased it to around 1000. Also, don't let the grow & micro mix before you add it to your reservoir. You might get a white precipitate that doesn't dissolve. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  12. I used it in my very first soil & autopot grow. Works very well & you can add a lot before it burns your plants. I would suggest getting a ppm/ec meter to properly monitor your nutrient concentration if you dont already have one. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  13. I've used Gewinn-tech. He's alright. Haven't used the light much, tbh Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  14. Try copper soap, it's worked with my last grow & its non-systemic. I've found that baking soda only helps for a short time & the PM eventually comes back if the humidity doesn't drop. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  15. I see Hydroponic.co.za will have stock end of Aug. I might get another one as well. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  16. Actually, its caused by cooler temperatures & high humidity. Some strains are also more susceptible to mildew... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://hightimes.com/grow/how-to-avoid-powdery-mildew/amp/&ved=2ahUKEwjA9fzEx8ziAhUUShUIHf6JAyYQFjALegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw3mUt3yummbxi7gqrPS8-Xu&ampcf=1 Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  17. The highest you should aim for is 1000 ppm or 2 EC, A, B & C combined. Some plants can handle higher, but you risk burning them. Very dark leaves, usually mean almost too much nitrogen, burnt tips usually follow if you increase your concentration. It's all about reading the leaves. Lol Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  18. Me neither... a good soil will stay moist for a few days & if you use an autopot, it never dries out. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  19. That chart wouldn't work very well with cannabis because of the shorter veg cycle. By the time you hit pre-flower, you should be at 2 EC or 1000ppm or slightly higher, depending how the plant handles it, & then once in flower you reduce A & B, and start adding C. Tapering A & B off till harvest/flush Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  20. I've placed 3 orders with them. Next day delivery in CT. Auto blueberry with one order, but I still prefer photo period seeds... Autos are finicky. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  21. Still nothing wrong, it's completely normal... the only large leaves you'll be left with at harvest, is the fan leaves on the colas. Almost all the other leaves will yellow & fall off before then. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  22. It's normal. Old leaves turn yellow & drop off, moreso when flowering starts. As long as the rest of the plant looks healthy, then u have nothing to worry about. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  23. There are arguments for & against flushing. I prefer to half my nutrients & a longer cure time. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  24. How dry is the medium when you water? Which potting mix? Are you feeding any nutrients? A pic would help. I've seen grows in perlite only, so I'd guess one of those questions above is where the problem is. Edit: Some potting mixes contain added fertilizers, stay far away from them, they're likely to burn the crap out of your plants. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  25. There's always the seed/clone exchange. I don't have any issue giving away clones either as it's practice for me; and if I have good genetics, like the Bay 11, it keeps the strain alive, since I won't be able to afford those seeds easily again. Basically paying it forward.
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