narnia

Yep, understood and always appreciated. My stumbling point is application without cocking it all up, hence comparing to existing lines as I lack the confidence to mix ad hoc. I've for sure locked out one plant in DWC thinking I knew what I was doing with chelated Ca, just by way of arbitrary example of one early cockup. Sometimes a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. Therefore whenever you drop some knowledge I'm trying to figure out how I can most easily apply it in my different setups, which is hopefully helpful for others too:-puffin

Could you advise on options? For e.g. would EHG ripener or an MKP like Hortis be a bit P heavy to hit in week 3-4? I've read frequently that the P is largely unneeded in boost week, which is what you're saying here too? Why not just some extra mls of EHG Bloom if on EHG line and add extra source of calcium? Too much N in the Ehg Bloom? Is the blast of Ca and Mg to keep ratios in check with the blast of K? More Micro to boost Fe (and Ca if needed) levels raises N quite high. Chelated Fe a bit risky in solution is it not, chelated calcium potentially problematic too? Apologies for the plethora of questions, trying to suss out how best to practically apply.

Yo, yo. Haven't seen or researched COBs with multiple spectra on board. AFAIK they're usually a white light, with the spectrum only altered by a coating of phosphor to get more red. Hence the blue spectra emitting more photons as they don't need to pass through the phosphor coating. COB just means chip on board, so a whole bunch of diodes on one real small board. Doesn't mean there couldn't be quality COBs using this tech, my knowledge is still limited. My assumption though, would be that unless it's a reputable, known brand, it's suspicious. If the brand of COB isn't mentioned or if there are no tech sheets to find anywhere, highly suspicious. I know Mars have come out with a fixture which uses COBs and a few diodes. Can't speak to the quality. Assumptions would be cheap shit. COBs were shifted into grow lights more out of DIY. If you look at the quantum boards, they're diodes spaced out on a larger board, which makes more sense. The only reason a COB would hit the 660nm spectrum so hard would be to target growers. Perhaps a bit cynical but yet again this seems like seedy marketing from shitty companies like Mars. Reference the tech spec sheets and/or find forum posts discussing. Internationally one can purchase Citizen or Vero COBs for I think around $25 per. They're far from being the priciest point of a fixture. Often the heatsinks will run you more if passive, the drivers are expenny, etc. etc.

Sweet! Congrats! COB setup currently right?

It might be a little tricky getting a warranty replacement on a bulb that looks like you've needed to make a meth pyp in a pinch, with seriaas shakes.

AFAIK there can be many reasons, ranging from general NPK sulphur mag Which could be caused by: overwatering cold pH salt buildup mixing nutes poorly Sometimes a sign of stress. Could just be strain expression, though less likely when it's long streaks IMO. Would need to watch for other symptoms if one was to pin it to something specific.

Nice one The more photons, the merrier, so as many CFLs as you can fit (within reason). Key with CFL, as with all lighting but especially with fluoros, is getting the light as close to the canopy as possible. Given you're in week 7 you probs wouldn't want to be playing around too much and risk heat burn. If you have the space available you could add a couple bulbs for side lighting. SOG or SCROG setups will be the best options which you could try on your next run.

May I ask the reasoning and ballpark time frame? e.g. 1,2,3 weeks away from harvest.

Thanks m8, appreciate your continued advice on my 'nute' queries. Ya have some amino mix (which I've been assuming is a mix of humic and fulvic?), that have used in the past. Intended to run through separately if using sugar water for first flush, then just on to plain water. You reckon just add the aminos to the sugar mix? What are options for synthetic chelates? I'm only aware of EDTA.

Thanks m8, appreciated. Ya I planned on finding a fine powdered form from a health shop or the like, or if not, just dissolve in warm water. Do you, or others, run something similar, or just lowest ppm water available? Or should I just *not mention the F word around these parts? [grammar edit]

Anyone know where to get hold of some clearing solution? e.g. Florakleen, Clearex, etc. ....or just purchase some glucose and sucrose and mix up my own "sugar water"?

Can't argue the yumminess of that one apical bud :-blazed As an aside, his [no]topping tech is the tits (removal of young leaves surrounding the growing shoot(s), without disturbing shoot itself) accomplishing similar effect to pinching, without the variability and excess stunting.

When would you last prune? Right before flipping? GML's leaf strip is ultra aggressive @ day 14 and thereafter left alone.

Image snatched from GrandMasterLevel

Solid for now, but thanks m8. Potentially at a later date. Ya it's quite difficult sourcing all required components particularly from a single source. Those who stock Veros don't stock Meanwell drivers, those who stock tapped heatsinks don't have Veros, etc. etc. missions. I'd be interested to see how customs would handle the DIY kits. I assume if you have HR codes for each component, may get off with just the VAT.

Copypasta as requested: @DoubleR perhaps make a new thread if you're looking for more info; Mars and [most of] the rest use those Epistar diodes. Regardless of what brand it is, it is essentially the same fixture. Potentially different drivers, but the drive currents are likely similar. Most of their stats can be thrown away, perhaps there are some with legitimate data, but it's unlikely. Need to look at the actual wattage draw, which even then is often not what you get. Marketed 200W draw, may pull only 150W and some of that is lost to driver heat etc. There is no PPF data anywhere, as far as I know, nor data on efficiency for the Epistar diode lights. I think Growmau5 once hypothesized 0.9 umol/j which is really bad, HID blows it out the water, CFL/T5 comparable. This is why "old fart HPS users" have not bought into LEDs over the years and only now with more quality fixtures are actually considering it. Reputable COBs (Cree, Vero, Citizen) are the way to go for LEDs, or quantum board type tech have higher efficiency and much better heat dissipation, but really expenny and still quite new. There's pretty much only one supplier in SA, Make Light, lots of kits internationally, Rapid Led, Timber grow lights, Chilled, Pacific light concepts, Cutter electronics, etc. TL;DR: you will get better penetration with Mars, etc. than CFL / T5, but the efficiency is so bad, wattage is much better spent on HID and very arguably CFL / T5 in a SOG or SCROG setup. If you want LEDs, go by PPF, be wary of lux and PAR wattage claims on Mars et al, they are very misleading. ---- Quantum boards using the Samsung S5 and S6 diodes and there are fixtures with the Cree (XP2 I think?) diodes. Not sure what the larger higher end lights like Spydr etc. are using, but they're still less efficient than the QBs. Would be remiss not to mention the Sanlight fixtures which have been featured on forum, and on paper look comparable to the QBs. COBs are a bit crazy, but really really effective. ----- There's also some limited details in this thread, with other COB users who've posted https://www.420sa.co.za/index.php/topic,1263.0.html

Noice one Trickerst[/member] ! Got something on the go now, or still waiting til next year? @Double_R (how do I tag someone with a space in their name) was looking for a fixture.

Ya much better tech. Quantum boards using the Samsung S5 and S6 diodes and there are fixtures with the Cree (XP2 I think?) diodes. Not sure what the larger higher end lights like Spydr etc. are using, but they're still less efficient than the QBs. Would be remiss not to mention the Sanlight fixtures which have been featured on forum, and on paper look comparable to the QBs. COBs are a bit crazy, but really really effective.

Eish sorry Jland[/member] your monster cropping thread has been jacked. @DoubleR perhaps make a new thread if you're looking for more info; Mars and [most of] the rest use those Epistar diodes. Regardless of what brand it is, it is essentially the same fixture. Potentially different drivers, but the drive currents are likely similar. Most of their stats can be thrown away, perhaps there are some with legitimate data, but it's unlikely. Need to look at the actual wattage draw, which even then is often not what you get. Marketed 200W draw, may pull only 150W and some of that is lost to driver heat etc. There is no PPF data anywhere, as far as I know, nor data on efficiency for the Epistar diode lights. I think Growmau5 once hypothesized 0.9 umol/j which is really bad, HID blows it out the water, CFL/T5 comparable. This is why "old fart HPS users" have not bought into LEDs over the years and only now with more quality fixtures are actually considering it. Reputable COBs (Cree, Vero, Citizen) are the way to go for LEDs, or quantum board type tech have higher efficiency and much better heat dissipation, but really expenny and still quite new. There's pretty much only one supplier in SA, Make Light, lots of kits internationally, Rapid Led, Timber grow lights, Chilled, Pacific light concepts, Cutter electronics, etc. TL;DR: you will get better penetration with Mars, etc. than CFL / T5, but the efficiency is so bad, wattage is much better spent on HID and very arguably CFL / T5 in a SOG or SCROG setup. If you want LEDs, go by PPF, be wary of lux and PAR wattage claims on Mars et al, they are very misleading.

Sorry to be that guy, but having made the same mistake myself, avoid the LEDs with the Epistar diodes. Not sure what the COBs are on the Bestva light, never seen them before, but marketed at 1000W with actual draw of 200W is suspicious af. Jland[/member] Yummy af under those CFLs nice one bud

Nice one bro How's the pH handling?

alemo[/member] Hortishop say they'll update the spreadsheet soon. Didn't query Ripener but presumably the same S to Mg ratio, or thereabouts, would make sense.

Update on this: EHG Bloom does contain sulphur @ approx. 12g/kg

"The study, from the University of South Australia, found that there are differences between the way marijuana users and non-users walk. Those who smoke the drug tend to have stiffer shoulders, more flexible elbows and quicker knees - which move faster than those of non-users."