So who’s gonna take the plunge?

[Budwizer]

Cmon all you led dudes- Here it is, the boy:

 

[Budwizer]

Check that spectrum!

 

You buy 2 of these and that’s it! You’re done! Everyone else may as well stop growing.

[narnia]

Loool that heatsink 

[Budwizer]

Bet it’s still cooler than a 400w HPS, and more light than a 1000w. I might just get me two.

[Totemic]

That looks like the perfect cob to replace my 400 for veg. Push 2 in flowering and its almost the sun.

[Budwizer]

And 8k isn’t a crazy price either. Even at 10k it would be in line with what you pay for a quality HPS setup. Running two, you’ll burn about 1100 watt, adding power supply losses. If I were running two of these, I could get away with not using the aircon. If you get 50000 hrs lifespan, you’re WAY ahead.

[Budwizer]

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0344/6401/files/YJWJ009-Beta_YJ-BC-270H-G01.pdf?12950384335126276083

 

Here’s the spec sheet. You can get it in 3200k & 5600k.

 

[narnia]

QBs or trusted COBs would likely do you better.

 

If we can trust the spec sheet (and my math), it equates to 48 lm/W on this COB. As a comparison Veros at common drive currents for e.g. hit around the 150-160 lm/W.  Meaning you'd need 150W to match, or two D type COBs at common drive currents.

[Budwizer]

I had a quick look at Bridgelux’s site. I see what you mean. What I don’t get is what all the fuss is about the Yujiled then. It’s inefficient, and bulky due to the heatsink. Why even bother? What’s the price of a 23000lux COB in the 150watt range?

[narnia]

I had a quick look at Bridgelux’s site. I see what you mean. What I don’t get is what all the fuss is about the Yujiled then. It’s inefficient, and bulky due to the heatsink. Why even bother? What’s the price of a 23000lux COB in the 150watt range?

 

[EDIT: I went off on a tangent after misinterpreting the question. Dunno what the fuss is... perhaps it's got a great colour rating and therefore useful in audio/visual or have you seen grower's fussing over it]

 

Would defs look at QB type tech. if you're looking at investing in LEDs. The spread and thermal management, primarily, are way more attractive, and the efficiency depending on drive currents.

 

For COBs: Veros or Citizens are the better choices with Cree being a little on the expenny side. The more COBs you can pack in, the better, in order to have better spread and lower hanging heights (debatable benefits for hanging heights) and run lower drive currents to improve efficiency, practically becomes a little too expensive. Veros are where I've researched most. Commonly peeps run either the C or D type COBs at 1700mA and 2100mA respectively, which will net you 118W and 81W respectively.

 

Go 80 CRI for the increased photon count, sadly we don't have PPF data but can use the lm/W as reference at least. You'll see, the disparity on 80 vs 90 CRI.

 

If you're looking for a veg light, you get the rather sweet bonus of an increased photon count (again ref. lm/W) with the cooler kelvin rating as the COBs have less coating to augment spectrum and therefore more light comes through at the same wattage compared to a warmer rating.

 

https://www.bridgelux.com/sites/default/files/resource_media/DS93%20Vero%2029%20Array%20Data%20Sheet%20Rev%20A%2020160622.pdf

 

JustinHemp420[/member] can perhaps help us out and weigh in on more data, or practical use of COB vs QB as he's running both.

[Budwizer]

I was talking about the fuss the guy in the video was making. Surely he knows what’s out there? As for colour rating or CRI, the Vero’s I browsed over had similar specs.

 

I’m torn between Gavita and Sanlights atm. Very different techs I know. I’ve see now that cobs don’t produce as much light as big HPS. You need a few of them to match the lumens.

I’m willing to spend on decent lighting going forward. Maybe I’ll do two Gavita 6/750s and two Sanlight P4s. Maybe 6 P4s? If I can get away from using the aircon, it’s a win for me. The aircon is a little over a KW energy use. I’m willing to look at COBs but I’m still not convinced about their benefits. Honestly, haven’t done much research. Also, I’m quite capable of DIYing shit, I have a dream workshop, but there’s something to be said for plug’n’play.

 

[narnia]

Then perhaps the fuss is about an affiliate link to garner a commission   not sure, only skimmed through the vid. 

 

I think Gavitas give you 1.9 umol/J - right?

Sanlight, QB, other fixtures using quality diodes hitting 2.2-2.4 umol/J - I believe.

 

Heat *should* be much lower with LED as there's way less radiant heat and slightly higher temps are preferred with LED. So you may really like that, push some of the aircon wattage into lighting, or just save $$. Also you can tinker with the spectrum a bit. As you're happy DIYing you could look into just importing QBs and drivers, tap your own heatsinks, make your own frame(s) etc. and knock off a few bob, potentially sacrificing warranty benefit of a prebuilt fixture though.

 

COBs get the job done but they're a bit silly for thermal management. The surface area for heat dissipation is tiny, requiring OTT heatsinks for passive cooling. Imagine having that jet engine fan in the vid in your grow  . If you're a savage, there's people overdriving the QBs and pulling ridiculous wattage, much like overclockers do on CPUs.

[Budwizer]

It looks like those Sanlights are QBs on their proprietary ally profile, doesn’t it. The P4 in Spectrum 2 version is pushing 3,3 umol/j. Pity I’m not in CT. I understand things best when I hold them in my hand. Growopz website leaves a lot to be desired.

I’m hoping to make the whole operation more efficient. It’s so stupid putting a KW of heat into the space, and then canceling it out with another KW of cooling. I could use that money on a serious CO2 rig.

[narnia]

It looks like those Sanlights are QBs on their proprietary ally profile, doesn’t it. The P4 in Spectrum 2 version is pushing 3,3 umol/j. Pity I’m not in CT. I understand things best when I hold them in my hand. Growopz website leaves a lot to be desired.

I’m hoping to make the whole operation more efficient. It’s so stupid putting a KW of heat into the space, and then canceling it out with another KW of cooling. I could use that money on a serious CO2 rig.

 

Shiiit son, that's impressive. Probs a more supplemental spectrum, but wow. Still 2.9 on the little more full spectrum. Not sure what diodes they're using, or whether there's any proprietary tech. but clearly quality. QBs are well documented to be using the Samsung S6 (older spec use S5) diodes. 

 

Watt for watt it's still going to pump out heat, but you should see a wattage reduction for comparable light levels and therefore reduction in btu. Bigger difference is the lack of radiant heat, particularly IR, allowing for a couple degrees higher temps. as optimal, further reducing cooling requirement as your target temp. is higher.

[Justin Hemp]

I had a quick look at Bridgelux’s site. I see what you mean. What I don’t get is what all the fuss is about the Yujiled then. It’s inefficient, and bulky due to the heatsink. Why even bother? What’s the price of a 23000lux COB in the 150watt range?

 

[EDIT: I went off on a tangent after misinterpreting the question. Dunno what the fuss is... perhaps it's got a great colour rating and therefore useful in audio/visual or have you seen grower's fussing over it]

 

Would defs look at QB type tech. if you're looking at investing in LEDs. The spread and thermal management, primarily, are way more attractive, and the efficiency depending on drive currents.

 

For COBs: Veros or Citizens are the better choices with Cree being a little on the expenny side. The more COBs you can pack in, the better, in order to have better spread and lower hanging heights (debatable benefits for hanging heights) and run lower drive currents to improve efficiency, practically becomes a little too expensive. Veros are where I've researched most. Commonly peeps run either the C or D type COBs at 1700mA and 2100mA respectively, which will net you 118W and 81W respectively.

 

Go 80 CRI for the increased photon count, sadly we don't have PPF data but can use the lm/W as reference at least. You'll see, the disparity on 80 vs 90 CRI.

 

If you're looking for a veg light, you get the rather sweet bonus of an increased photon count (again ref. lm/W) with the cooler kelvin rating as the COBs have less coating to augment spectrum and therefore more light comes through at the same wattage compared to a warmer rating.

 

https://www.bridgelux.com/sites/default/files/resource_media/DS93%20Vero%2029%20Array%20Data%20Sheet%20Rev%20A%2020160622.pdf

 

JustinHemp420[/member] can perhaps help us out and weigh in on more data, or practical use of COB vs QB as he's running both.

Eeeeehhhhh Whatever he said

 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

 

 

[S420]

Wow  , does it come with its own lambo ?