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First ever Grow...


MrE

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1 hour ago, Adansonia digitata said:

What is the likely hood of both making it to the stage where they are viable for cross pollination? I'm sure they will hamper each others progress? 

So for the first question, I wouldn't cross pollinate if you do get a fem and male, well, maybe I would to see what the hell happens😂 but I think along the lines of maybe inbred genetics... So I wouldn't make it my goal to hope to have a male and female. 

And as for hampering each others progress, you might find one to be dominant and over grow the other, or with a bit of training you could be able to grow both as is without trouble. 

See what happens man! 

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Highest reading at the top cola (8cm from light) is approx 800umol (PPFD), and down on the edge, just under the twins is approx 400 umol (30cm from light). 8/10 on the dimmer. IMG_20210407_211000.jpg

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800 micromol are about the smalest amount to give them during flower... 400 is for veg even low. Potency will suffer with that little light. 400 micromol during flower will produce fluff buds... you need more light, bro 🤔 go max on the dimmer and see how much more you get. As long as your buds dont bleach 😁 

You took the pic after dark time? Leaves look a bit droopy. 

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18 minutes ago, Prom said:

800 micromol are about the smalest amount to give them during flower... 400 is for veg even low. Potency will suffer with that little light. 400 micromol during flower will produce fluff buds... you need more light, bro 🤔 go max on the dimmer and see how much more you get. As long as your buds dont bleach 😁 

You took the pic after dark time? Leaves look a bit droopy. 

I'm talking about umols as in PAR/PPFD. I don't need much more than 800 because I don't supplement CO2. It is the maximum my situation requires. I also run them 24h, since I can't plan for shedding, so just go for it.

Yes, that's why I explained that it's 400 on the edge, just under/level with the youngest plant, which is in veg. 22cm further away(vertically) from the 800 reading.

Yup, sometimes leaves can be a bit droopy, I don't know what else to say about that one 🙂

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13 minutes ago, Prom said:

Last strains you listed were photos... autos??

I've never grown a photo. But I've run out of auto seeds, so next 2x will be photo, as they're the only ones left.

From all the credible sources I've ever read, every single one says above 1000 requires CO2 and nutrients and environment to be on point.

https://www.migrolight.com/learn-grow-lighting-basics/

That's just not my particular type of fun. Besides, I don't have AC, and it regularly goes above 30 in the space I have to grow in, so I couldn't even if I wanted to. Hopefully be able to move downstairs in the future, bit cooler.

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If the top bud gets a bit more... doesnt matter much. Just cant use the extra light. But the lower levels enjoy a bit more. I measure on the canape... not the top cola. With HID systems you worry heat and bleaching, LED not really. Good ventilation will keep the buds close to the light cool. 

With autos, doesnt matter what Escom does. 24/0 is a bit of a waste. Even autos enjoy a exhale phase.. they dont grow during that time, light or not. 18/6 or 20/4 works best in my experience. Only worries you have with autos during Eskom outage is your ventilation stopping and humidity going up. Even Eskom would go lv6... autos wouldnt get confused light wise. But as i ran 24/0 grows too... cant tell people not to do that. 😁 i cant say i measured more yield on 24/0

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2 hours ago, Prom said:

If the top bud gets a bit more... doesnt matter much. Just cant use the extra light. But the lower levels enjoy a bit more. I measure on the canape... not the top cola. With HID systems you worry heat and bleaching, LED not really. Good ventilation will keep the buds close to the light cool. 

With autos, doesnt matter what Escom does. 24/0 is a bit of a waste. Even autos enjoy a exhale phase.. they dont grow during that time, light or not. 18/6 or 20/4 works best in my experience. Only worries you have with autos during Eskom outage is your ventilation stopping and humidity going up. Even Eskom would go lv6... autos wouldnt get confused light wise. But as i ran 24/0 grows too... cant tell people not to do that. 😁 i cant say i measured more yield on 24/0

Yes, but extra light means extra heat, and I've already got a heat issue. I can't afford better ventilation/AC.

If you look at the relevant information, you'll see that the possible benefit of all that excess light 1000+ is usually only able to be harnessed by experienced growers.

I dunno, I guess I have to disagree with you, if you think a pretty freshly hatched plant needs much more than around 400. The middle two are getting more because they're closer to the light, around 575.

The top bud, if you look at the pics, is only about 2cm taller than the rest of the canopy. So I'm super stoked with between 700-800 for my canopy at this early stage of flower.

I've grown autos on all variations of lighting schedules, and have never personally noticed a difference. I dim the lights and do 24hrs for the convenience atm. I'm not making any claims. During shedding when on different schedules, there were often 2x periods of darkness per day, one of course, random (whether or not this could cause an auto to go into flower early was a concern, is it valid, not entirely sure). Running 24, it's one less variable I have to worry about. Do I want to change back to 20/4-18/6 and save some cash, deffo. Would I just go back to 24h when shedding kicks in, yes, so I leave it there for now.

I appreciate the concern tho! 

Edit: Ok you've convinced me, going back to 18/6!!

Edited by MrE
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Light wise you dont have to worry at all with autos. You can put em on a timer and what ever Eskom does, Eskom can do (PM way more a danger during load shedding). They are in no way photo period dependant. Use the power you saved for cooling and your terpenes say thank you when you smoke the weed. 😁

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5 hours ago, ORGANinc. said:

Howzit man! I'm trying to understand why you elevated the tent? Is it got to do with regulating the temp?

I had to fight to use this space, as it's communal to some degree. It's a long, boring story.

It's actually just a space utilisation issue. I can store stuff underneath, tending to the plants is easier, less bending down, it's sort of less underfoot for people using the rest of the garage. Driver etc. on top of tent, keep extra heat furthest away from fresh air intake. 

Actually, theoretically, having the tent on the ground would place intake vents where the coldest air in most rooms is, at the bottom. Although, how much of a difference, depends on various factors I guess. Probably negligible if it's only a short distance.

It's so much more of a pleasure to work in, personally. I love it!

Edited by MrE
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20 hours ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

@MrE

is that a gibraltar chair that belongs to a drumset I see there??

amazing plants man, really hitting it out the park here!!! 

:-flyinghi

It's an ultra cheap Mapex, but I had a Gibraltar that was stolen along with all my other mostly Gibraltar hardware. 🙂 That's my silent as possible kick, snare, hihat practise station. Don't get me started about gear.

Thanks man, hardly, but growing is my therapy. Excited to have somewhat manageable temps now.

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oooh I see the high hat peeping out behind the tent there! awesome man, I wish I could still be making some noise, but my set has been packed away for over 2 years now and when it was still out I didn't touch it for almost another 2 years. never letting any of it go though hahah got a Ludwig set with few Gibraltar upgrades and add ons. 

shit to have anything stolen, but your drums dude that's like having your baby taken from you. I am not even interacting with mine and would absolutely loose my shit if I had to loose it!

your autos look amazing man, I haven't even had the courage to take on a auto run. said I was gona, but never did. still getting to know the ropes on the nutrient schedules and shit of photoperiods. I feel you have more room for error and all that so taking on autos you have to know what you doing. and it surely looks like you do. 

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Ok so maybe I was cooking a few spots a little, turns out 10-15cm for flower is far more optimum. Will teach me to be too confident when you get your values through cellphone lux to par conversion sites. Only good for approximation really, still super handy. 

If that seed pops it'll be my first photo. 1 has already failed and this is my last seed.

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Tried to prevent heat from the outside by stuffing squares of white, fluffy insulation, and then sheets of of white paper masking taped over that, ran out of materials, still, maybe it'll help a bit.

That 20l fabric pot is what I'll transplant into if the photo lives, change from trusty 9.5ls. I've been adding old soil from harvested plants or really badly stunted growth plants that I've aborted.

Current temp: 26.6. I'm lucky considering it's an enclosed, small garage room. I think air might slowly creep in the two exit doors when both closed, as it doesn't vary wildly. But then it's only a 80x80cm. Still on 8/10 on dimmer, it keeps the temps where I want them, which I think is most critical. A good balance.

IMG_20210413_230609.jpg

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On 4/15/2021 at 9:01 AM, CreX said:

what is the final colour temp about? closer to 4000k? would you use this predominantly in veg?

 

From the Integrating Sphere test. 3351K overall colour temp. Seed to Harvest. CRI: 86.8. Using IS data in Cocoforcannabis.com calculator(Total PPFD), Estimated Usable PPFD 579umol. Efficiency: 2.41umol/w. Coverage 8.9 sq ft / 0.83 sq m.

So up to a 1mx1m tent if you're not too concerned with the drop off on the edges. Perhaps locally, Mars Hydro FC3000 is a better choice for 1mx1m if you're looking to maximise 100% canopy and push higher light levels.

IF everything comes together, I'll diversify and add more powerful units with increased diode count. But that's for enthusiasts wanting to have the headroom to push CO2 etc. This is a medium powered light for average growers like myself, and I would think the majority of people. Who want to save money on Elec, provide as close to 800umol across most of the canopy as possible(at the correct hanging height), be able to keep temps in check in tents from 60x60cm and all the way up.

Spectrum.jpgPPFuv: 1.90 - PPFb: 82.54 - PPFg: 249.19 - PPFr: 251.33 - PPFfr: 17.44

If I break that down it's:

12.3% Blue | 37.2 Green | 37.5 Red, with the remainder on either side of 400nm and 700nm respectively.

Since Dr Bruce Bugbee of Utah State University has shown that green penetrates leaves and canopies more deeply than any other colour, sharing the energy with the lower material, my goal was to provide enough blue to keep compact in veg (6-7% minimum) and then maximise the boost in red and green equally, to best capture the positive attributes that each part of the spectrum provides.

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2 hours ago, The_StonedTrooper said:

You missing 2x Far Red, in the centre to make it completely even😉

Curse you!! 😛 Don't get my OCD started again! Hehe.

To go nerd mode for a sec, more than 4-5% can start to cause unwanted stem elongation, which can then be controlled by adding more blue, but since increasing blue (going only by the study I've seen, Dr Bruce) showed no measurable increase in THC/CBD, combined with the fact that Far Red diodes are far less efficient. Oh and also they artificially raise leaf temperature, which, I feel, is not ideal in warmer climates and especially warmer climates without AC.

Oh, and the gap in the middle makes use of the properties of an aray, light spill from either side combining to increase the overall par intensity inbetween. The gap also divides the hot spot in the cooling system and moves the heat to where it is best maintained. At the same time, that spreads the light to the edges, where it's needed the most. PPE may slightly decrease, but Usable PPFD increases slightly, and that means the light is provided in a controlled, even way to where you want it, the canopy.

Edited by MrE
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