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2part question - for the LED guys.


Naughty.Psychonaut
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10 minutes ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

This is exactly what I needed!!!! Thank you kindly good Sir!! :-bow

I am looking at those F series strips with the 144 diodes. Fucking crazy. For some reason I can't open or download any of the data sheets from the Samsung strips on that website. I got the pdf downloaded for the data sheet on the Bridgelux strips, but I need to cram as much W in and it seems my alu frame will be too small to get 300w of the bridgelux strips on there. 

Could I possibly ask one of the forum members who has access to the data sheet of the F series strips to take a screen grab of the wattage on those F series strips, and post it here? The link to the data sheet is given on the LEDgardener website in the link @SkunkPharm provided in the post above.

The link seems to be broken,

Try this: https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/f-series-gen3/67179  under the data sheet section.

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2 minutes ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

Almost got it, I am looking for the wattage, unless there's a way to calculate it?

The wattage of the specific strip? 

Normal calculations. W(wattage) = V(voltage) x I(current).

I see the strips are rated for current of 1.12 -2.25 A and 23V - 46V.

So it will depends on your driver output how much wattage you will get from each light strip.

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4 minutes ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

Thanks man! I also found a samsung specific data sheet on the digikey website, getting all the answers now!!! Once things are in motion I'll show you all how I'm putting it all together. 

 

Good luck man! I hope you build an awesome light.

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  • 1 month later...

digikey had free express shipping at the time. Aliexpress goes per weight.. so was cheaper for me to order from 2 different suppliers. 

If you buy just one QB 288, do NOT take the 240 driver, take a 120.. other way you waste way to much energy or need a dimmer. The 120 works perfect and the draw is correct. The 240 draws way more as it just tries to squeeze everything inside the board.. one reason my boards were way to hot. Now.. not even sure I need a heat sink, hand warm.

So select the driver matching your boards wattage. 

1 QB288 IM301B/H - HLG 120H-48(A, B or AB)

2 QB288s - HLG 240H-48(A,B or AB)

If you do not want to use a dimmer, just don't connect one and it will run 100%, works on all three driver versions A, B and AB. But you still have the option.. I go with B usually as I like to connect them to a Arduino system and dim from that source.

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15 minutes ago, Prom said:

digikey had free express shipping at the time. Aliexpress goes per weight.. so was cheaper for me to order from 2 different suppliers. 

If you buy just one QB 288, do NOT take the 240 driver, take a 120.. other way you waste way to much energy or need a dimmer. The 120 works perfect and the draw is correct. The 240 draws way more as it just tries to squeeze everything inside the board.. one reason my boards were way to hot. Now.. not even sure I need a heat sink, hand warm.

So select the driver matching your boards wattage. 

1 QB288 IM301B/H - HLG 120H-48(A, B or AB)

2 QB288s - HLG 240H-48(A,B or AB)

If you do not want to use a dimmer, just don't connect one and it will run 100%, works on all three driver versions A, B and AB. But you still have the option.. I go with B usually as I like to connect them to a Arduino system and dim from that source.

Thanks for all your tips and info it really is helpful! 

Do you mind sharing your Arduino setup or how to connect it?

I have 2 unos laying around that I haven't touched for years. 

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3 minutes ago, CoolJ said:

Thanks for all your tips and info it really is helpful! 

Do you mind sharing your Arduino setup or how to connect it?

I have 2 unos laying around that I haven't touched for years. 

Is a bit the question what you want to do.. my Arduino not just handles the dimming of the lamps. I use it for climate control and is connected to a few 240 relays handling 1 8 inch intake and 2 6 inch out takes (one in room circulation, other vent under the roof with a carbon filter connected). The system just reads the sensors (humidity, temp and light) and activates the relays depending on the settings (light would send me a alarm message). If you just want to dim, you need a simple regulator

https://www.takealot.com/dc-dc-step-down-power-module-using-lm2596-1-25v-35v/PLID60539879?gclid=Cj0KCQjwgJv4BRCrARIsAB17JI6r7I8Z7x3U3HDNgpHkTGkQjEVXl3JQoeDDiMeCBggo01lnrDTZSMQaAu12EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

And connect it. The rest i can write you the script or you will find out, is rather simple. The module also comes with a script.. if you want a keyboard or a knob to change the settings, that is your choice. Is a very simple language and you find for any issue help online. (I have a little advantage here, I worked as a professional programmer, when I was way younger)

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4 minutes ago, StickyD420 said:

Says Folux V3

If they have the IM301B on, you have the right diode.. check to take the 3000k 660nm version and should do what you want it to do 😁 2 of the 288 QBs would replace a Mars 144 and draw less (for a 1.2x0.6 area). So my Gorilla Burble is beaten.. I don't even test that hehehe 240 watt is less as the 270 the Mars 144 draws. But I put the Sweet Seeds in once here for another no effort grow.. and run it with a QB setup to prove my point 😎 or prove me wrong 😏

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The H is the more expensive version.. so you should find a cheaper version with another board soldering company using the B version of the diode.

If you do not buy a tested lamp.. you need to read properly! You want IR and you do not want UV inside your board. 3000k or 3500k version.. is a bit choice and preference. When they mention UV.. look somewhere else, has nothing to do in a grow light. They have as selection: 3000k 660nm ... you go there.. or I look further. 

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Just curious, as on Migro and Apogee videos, they actually make reference to the HPS been that good for so long and LEDs battling to beat them till now, because the HPS has a UV spectrum included in the bulbs, and that Bruce is doing test with the UV rays added for the actual benefit of it, but it seemed to make the plant open its leaves stomata and also add something in the leaves for sunblock, which in turn made the plant grow better or produce better "sun ripened" fruit or flower.

Edited by StickyD420
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HPS is still the thing to beat.. they are just very very hungry. g/watt they lose against LED.. if I wouldn't have to worry about electricity cost at all.. I am rather sure, I still would use HPS lamps. They are great but very expensive to run.

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