Ideal PH for these strains?

[Teal Smith]

So most online literature states that generally, PH should be kept between 6 & 6.5. Generally.  I know various strains are more particular, though. 

At the moment, I have these AUTO strains, and this being week # 1, I have been feeding them PH balanced water only (@ between 6.3 & 6.4). They are in Atami's "High Porosity Coco" growing medium.

Girl Scout Cookies
AK x Critical Mass
UK Cheese
Pineapple Express
LSD

I realize keeping it between 6 & 6.5 would function and be acceptable, but I'd like to dial it in a little better for each particular strain. Anyone with experience on these strains have any info on what their IDEAL PH's should be? The internet is a minefield full of opposing opinions of hundreds of dudes who may or may not know what they're talking about! :D 

TIA
 

[Bakstein420]

Usually the breeder should stipulate this if it varies from the norm.

[GGG]

When I grew photos in coco/perlite they vegged 5,5-5,7 and in flowering 5,7-6, sometimes 6,2 close to the end. I didn't try higher cause it was working well and didn't want to risk it. Some growers work higher tho. They mine field begins.....

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[PsyCLown]

With coco I aim for between 5.9 and 6.2, this is with using GHE nutes. I have not yet experienced any issues.

 

I think @CreX also runs the same PH range as I do?

[CreX]

@Teal Smith, it depends on the meduim you use.

Soil - 6.2 to 6.7 is sharp

Hydro - 5.8 to 6.2

Coco - 5.6 to 6.0 seems to give great results

And these I would use pretty much all the way through the grow. 

Unless I spot a deficiency that shouldn't be around... Then I check the deficiency chart and what pH it gets absorbed best and feed at a point or 2 higher or lower than that... Depending if I have a low pH or a high pH issue. 

[Teal Smith]

10 minutes ago, PsyCLown said:

With coco I aim for between 5.9 and 6.2, this is with using GHE nutes. I have not yet experienced any issues.

 

I think @CreX also runs the same PH range as I do?

Nice one. I'm also using GHE nutes. This is the type of answer I was looking for. Cheers

[Teal Smith]

8 minutes ago, CreX said:

@Teal Smith, it depends on the meduim you use.

Soil - 6.2 to 6.7 is sharp

Hydro - 5.8 to 6.2

Coco - 5.6 to 6.0 seems to give great results

And these I would use pretty much all the way through the grow. 

Unless I spot a deficiency that shouldn't be around... Then I check the deficiency chart and what pH it gets absorbed best and feed at a point or 2 higher or lower than that... Depending if I have a low pH or a high pH issue. 

Thanks Crex. Nice tip. I have a few deficiency charts but they not so great. Would you care to share the one you use?

So should I abandon the idea that different strains prefer slightly different PHs and just stick to a one-does-all type of approach in the vicinity of 5.6 -6? 

 

[Ill_Evan]

1 minute ago, Teal Smith said:

Thanks Crex. Nice tip. I have a few deficiency charts but they not so great. Would you care to share the one you use?

So should I abandon the idea that different strains prefer slightly different PHs and just stick to a one-does-all type of approach in the vicinity of 5.6 -6? 

 

I usually use this as a rule-of-thumb in the beginning then adjust depending on what the plant shows me. 

Here's a handy chart to help with any deficiencies due to incorrect pH:

[CreX]

1 minute ago, Teal Smith said:

Thanks Crex. Nice tip. I have a few deficiency charts but they not so great. Would you care to share the one you use?

So should I abandon the idea that different strains prefer slightly different PHs and just stick to a one-does-all type of approach in the vicinity of 5.6 -6? 

 

I'll get the charts I use for the absorb rate for pH... The deficiency chart is the standard one online... I have learned to visually identify deficiencies so I don't have to use the chart so much. 

And your idea is sound... Some plants do like different pH... But even as an experienced grower, I still don't know which plants like different pH lol. 

So stick to basics for now... And when you have run the same plant for a few seasons... The exact same plant... Cuttings and stuff... Then you can play with pH and test things

[CreX]

5 minutes ago, Ill_Evan said:

I usually use this as a rule-of-thumb in the beginning then adjust depending on what the plant shows me. 

Here's a handy chart to help with any deficiencies due to incorrect pH:

@Teal Smith I use the blue one... But both are really good and quite accurate 

[Teal Smith]

2 minutes ago, CreX said:

I'll get the charts I use for the absorb rate for pH... The deficiency chart is the standard one online... I have learned to visually identify deficiencies so I don't have to use the chart so much. 

And your idea is sound... Some plants do like different pH... But even as an experienced grower, I still don't know which plants like different pH lol. 

So stick to basics for now... And when you have run the same plant for a few seasons... The exact same plant... Cuttings and stuff... Then you can play with pH and test things

That makes a lot of sense and will save time too. Cheers

[PsyCLown]

2 minutes ago, CreX said:

I'll get the charts I use for the absorb rate for pH... The deficiency chart is the standard one online... I have learned to visually identify deficiencies so I don't have to use the chart so much. 

And your idea is sound... Some plants do like different pH... But even as an experienced grower, I still don't know which plants like different pH lol. 

So stick to basics for now... And when you have run the same plant for a few seasons... The exact same plant... Cuttings and stuff... Then you can play with pH and test things

I was just going to say, when you go to seed it becomes a lucky packet. Different phenotypes can have difference preferences.

 

So in order to be able to dial it in 100%, you need to be growing some cuttings to ensure you are growing the exact same plant.

I personally do not know of anyone who adjusts PH per plant though, that is a lot of effort and don't think the gain would be worth it in the end. As long as the plant is happy and not showing deficiencies, or excess of a certain nute then it shouldn't be a problem.

Maybe if you're on a mass scale like some guys in the states, with a warehouse of a single strain all grown from a cutting - perhaps then its worth it. For us with our 8 plant limit, I dont think so.

[Teal Smith]

30 minutes ago, Ill_Evan said:

I usually use this as a rule-of-thumb in the beginning then adjust depending on what the plant shows me. 

Here's a handy chart to help with any deficiencies due to incorrect pH:

Thanks so much Evan. This is helpful.

Just checking (referring to the blue hydro chart).... So it shows which minerals are NOT absorbed when the PH goes out of the zone of 5.5 - 6.5? For example, my plant will lack Phosphorus if I keep my PH higher than 6.3... And minerals like Nitrogen and Potassium will be absorbed no matter what the PH (within reason). Magnesium will not be absorbed if PH is lower than  5.8. Basically, if I keep the PH between 5.8 and 6, all the necessary minerals will be absorbed, and I'll be just fine.... 

Do I understand correctly?

Edited September 1, 2020 by Teal Smith

[Ill_Evan]

Just now, Teal Smith said:

Thanks so much Evan. This is helpful.

Just checking (referring to the blue hydro chart).... So it shows which minerals are NOT absorbed when the PH goes out of the zone of 5.5 - 6.5? For example, my plant will lack Phosphorus if I keep my PH higher than 6.3... And minerals like Nitrogen and Potassium will be absorbed no matter what the PH (within reason). Magnesium will not be absorbed if PH is higher than  5.8. Basically, if I keep the PH between 5.6 and 6, all the necessary minerals will be absorbed, and I'll be just fine.... 

Do I understand correctly?

You got it  a few online guides promote fluctuating your pH slowly between feeds in order to get the full spectrum of minerals your plants need, but if you can nail it at ~5.8 you'll pretty much be getting everything. 

[Teal Smith]

1 hour ago, PsyCLown said:

I was just going to say, when you go to seed it becomes a lucky packet. Different phenotypes can have difference preferences.

 

So in order to be able to dial it in 100%, you need to be growing some cuttings to ensure you are growing the exact same plant.

I personally do not know of anyone who adjusts PH per plant though, that is a lot of effort and don't think the gain would be worth it in the end. As long as the plant is happy and not showing deficiencies, or excess of a certain nute then it shouldn't be a problem.

Maybe if you're on a mass scale like some guys in the states, with a warehouse of a single strain all grown from a cutting - perhaps then its worth it. For us with our 8 plant limit, I dont think so.

I'm using autos at the mo so won't be working with cuttings. I chose auto because they're easier to maintain during load shedding as the UPS system I need is going to cost, so will have to save towards that for future.

 My grow is by no means a warehouse (as awesome as that would be!), but it makes sense NOT to go through the trouble of fine-tuning each strain's PH level for barely noticeable results.

Keep all my levels, feedings and settings in the "Goldilocks zone", and I'll be good

Edited September 1, 2020 by Teal Smith

[Teal Smith]

1 hour ago, Ill_Evan said:

You got it  a few online guides promote fluctuating your pH slowly between feeds in order to get the full spectrum of minerals your plants need, but if you can nail it at ~5.8 you'll pretty much be getting everything. 

That is fantastic. Legendary. According to the blue chart, it seems like between 5.7 - 6.2 are the magic numbers, then. Will be bouncing it between the 2 levels say every other feeding so I can get my CalMag (no lower than 6.0) and Manganese (no higher than 5.8) absorbed.

Will be making the necessary adjustments to my feeding schedule. 

Thanks!
 

Edited September 1, 2020 by Teal Smith

[Teal Smith]

You know guys, every time I ask a question, you are all so extremely helpful, and give me PROPER info that I can rely on. So glad I signed up at 420SA

I just wanted to say thanks very much to everyone who took the time. 

Cheers

[Prom]

1 hour ago, Teal Smith said:

That is fantastic. Legendary. According to the blue chart, it seems like between 5.7 - 6.2 are the magic numbers, then. Will be bouncing it between the 2 levels say every other feeding so I can get my CalMag (no lower than 6.0) and Manganese (no higher than 5.8) absorbed.

Will be making the necessary adjustments to my feeding schedule. 

Thanks!
 

CalMag is a double bladed substance. It should more run as NITRATECalMag. It packs a very heavy N punch, adjust your feeding accordingly. I would only use CalMag for Calcium issues as emergency remedy.. use Epsom for Magnesium hassle, way saver to use.

[CreX]

5 minutes ago, Prom said:

CalMag is a double bladed substance. It should more run as NITRATECalMag. It packs a very heavy N punch, adjust your feeding accordingly. I would only use CalMag for Calcium issues as emergency remedy.. use Epsom for Magnesium hassle, way saver to use.

Im with @prom here. 

Sometimes you just need calcuim... And other times you just need magnesium. 

I have always tried to seperate them. 

To mix your own you need a box of Epsom salts, and a same weight bag of calcuim nitrate (it's the part B of hortimix range for quick finding) 

And then use the one you need. 

Use the calmag to buffer your meduim before you use the meduim to grow in

[Teal Smith]

Thanks guys. Sorry, I should have been more clear when I said Calmag. I was referring to the blue chart above as they're right next to each other and have very similar uptake from a PH standpoint. As per whatever the deficiency may be at the time, I would check the deficiency chart, then add minerals separately, as per your suggestions.

I was under the impression that my Atami grow medium and GHE nutes (Grow, Bloom and Ripen + flush at the end) had all the macro and micro nutes necessary for the entire grow... 

Good info though, on how to Cal & Mag. Cheers. @Prom thanks for the tip of adjusting N when using CalMag suppliment

@CreXI believe Atami has already added buffers and other necessary minerals & additives to their medium beforehand... (I'm using Atami High Poroosity Coco). Regardless, that ship has sailed for this grow because the seeds have already sprouted.

 

[PsyCLown]

Thanks guys. Sorry, I should have been more clear when I said Calmag. I was referring to the blue chart above as they're right next to each other and have very similar uptake from a PH standpoint. As per whatever the deficiency may be at the time, I would check the deficiency chart, then add minerals separately, as per your suggestions.

I was under the impression that my Atami grow medium and GHE nutes (Grow, Bloom and Ripen + flush at the end) had all the macro and micro nutes necessary for the entire grow... 

Good info though, on how to Cal & Mag. Cheers. @Prom thanks for the tip of adjusting N when using CalMag suppliment

@CreXI believe Atami has already added buffers and other necessary minerals & additives to their medium beforehand... (I'm using Atami High Poroosity Coco). Regardless, that ship has sailed for this grow because the seeds have already sprouted.

 

For your next grow, gt hydro have a coco called gold line I think. Five that a go, no extra amendments - just pure coco.
You can add some perlite to it, I prefer my coco this way.

Also ripen and flush, not sure how I feel about those products anymore to be honest.
Ripen, you can likely achieve the same results by feeding a bit extra mpk and if you're feeding bloom nutes the addition of ripen or mpk won't make much of a difference.
As for florakleen, well, I'm not even sure flushing is really needed... Another heated topic which we could get into another time though.

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[Teal Smith]

19 minutes ago, PsyCLown said:

 

 

For your next grow, gt hydro have a coco called gold line I think. Five that a go, no extra amendments - just pure coco.
You can add some perlite to it, I prefer my coco this way.

Also ripen and flush, not sure how I feel about those products anymore to be honest.
Ripen, you can likely achieve the same results by feeding a bit extra mpk and if you're feeding bloom nutes the addition of ripen or mpk won't make much of a difference.
As for florakleen, well, I'm not even sure flushing is really needed... Another heated topic which we could get into another time though.

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Interesting. As an alternative to Ripen, I already have samples of Atami's Bloombastic. They were free and are enough to last me an entire grow, maybe more. Is that a better product than ripen IYO? or am I dealing with the same thing, just a different manufacturer? If possible I'd like to keep all nutes from the same manufacturer, that way I know they'll all mix well.

I'd love to make my own medium in the future but since this was my 1st attempt at a proper indoor grow, I figured I'd go for ease and let Atami do all the additives for me. There were also so many things to research and implement, I opted for simplicity when i came to the medium

Flushing - LOL... okay sounds like a debate very often debated... Will no doubt have a few questions about that closer to the time ;)

Edited September 1, 2020 by Teal Smith

[PsyCLown]

I feel its much of a muchness really with regards to ripen vs a bloom booster / mpk.

Best way with regards to flushing or not is to test it out yourself with the same strain / plant.
Flush one, don't flush the other. Then smoke and compare yourself.

The harshness comes from the chlorophyll I believe. Also with an outdoor grow you can't really flush, or even with soil indoors. Good luck getting rid of all the nutes in your garden soil or even in a 20L pot of soil. Ain't happening easily.
Different story in hydro.

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[Teal Smith]

7 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

I feel its much of a muchness really with regards to ripen vs a bloom booster / mpk.

Best way with regards to flushing or not is to test it out yourself with the same strain / plant.
Flush one, don't flush the other. Then smoke and compare yourself.

The harshness comes from the chlorophyll I believe. Also with an outdoor grow you can't really flush, or even with soil indoors. Good luck getting rid of all the nutes in your garden soil or even in a 20L pot of soil. Ain't happening easily.
Different story in hydro.

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Makes alot of sense what you're saying... How can you possibly flush your garden?!  good point. 

I'll test a flushed and non-flushed plant from the same strain and see for myself. 

Re the nutes - cool, thanks.  I'll likely just stick to the GHE products so they're all the same manufacturer.
 

cheers bud

 

[PsyCLown]

Mpk is probably not needed but it's cheap, so get a bit anyways. You can play around with it and see if it makes any difference.

You running ghe coco, not ghe tri pack stuff?

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