420SA Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 I'm really afraid to post this matter up as i fear what i may have to do. Powdery mildew is showing up on one of my plants leaves, few spots, 6 weeks into flower. Does this mean chop or is there a way to stem this so late in flower? i've read up about milk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest OnlyTheGood Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 The fight with mildew is seldom clean cut, that b*tch just keeps coming back when you treat it, it's a systemic infection. I'd be wary of milk this late into flower, the residues it leaves behind can facilitate the onset of botrytis. Here's what I suggest, in order of importance: Increase airflow. Prune affected leaves away. Increase the amount of available silica in the medium, I'm not sure if you're growing organically or with salts? Either way, high levels of silica seem to stop the dreaded PM in it's tracks. Apply an AACT as a foliar feed, the beneficials can help fight the fungal infection and the water itself will kill off the fruiting bodies of the mildew (I read a study which found this method to be somewhat inconsistent in it's efficiency, presumably because of the non-uniform nature of AACT from batch to batch). Make a tea from plants that have natural antifungal and immune boosting properties, for example thyme, stinging nettle, whole dandelion plant, garlic, dilute using crushed aloe as a wetting agent and apply as a foliar. If I am going to spray anything on plants in late flower, I make sure it's something I could comfortably eat. Mildew can't survive a high PH environment, so raising the PH of the leaf surface can kill off fruiting bodies. The systemic infection will likely still be lurking, hence this being at the end of the list I hope you get it under control! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
420SA Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 That post in itself wouldve been a worthy entry for the comp thanks bud This plant is growing in coco/perlite with chem nutes and I have been supplementing with a silica supplement from horti. Should I up the silica dosage even more than what they suggest? One of the problems is this plant got super bushy and I didn't do enough defoliation to combat the humid conditions that must've developed on the inner parts of the plant...became like a jungle in there. What I've done now is separated the branches by tying down and done some considerable defoliation and removed affected leaves.... that should increase airflow and slow the spread in that regard... Fortunately I've started going the organic route with my vegging plants so you reckon it wouldn't be a bad idea spraying some aact on the plant when I brew my next tea? I use a fish emulsion in my tea, should I leave that out as that could leave a really bad smell on the buds...? One more thing Make a tea from plants that have natural antifungal and immune boosting properties, for example thyme, stinging nettle, whole dandelion plant, garlic, dilute using crushed aloe as a wetting agent and apply as a foliar. If I am going to spray anything on plants in late flower, I make sure it's something I could comfortably eat. This sounds great! I'm not familiar with the term wetting agent do I add it to boiling water along with the other ingredients? I do have a few aloes in my garden. This plants needs to hold out for 3 more weeks so I'm helluva worried now my fault though! Thanks for your help OTG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest OnlyTheGood Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 Sounds like you're on the right track, defoliation and spreading is a good move. Funny, have had a similar problem in the past, I think a big cause of PM indoors is laziness lol. It's been a long time since I used chems, so I can't weigh in on upping the silica beyond their recommended levels. Organics are a lot more forgiving. Personally, I would advise leaving the fish emulsion out of your teas. I am of the belief that it's better added in after the brew cycle to provide available N, feed existing bennies from the tea at the same time. Using guano or any animal derivatives when brewing AACT is inviting all manner of trouble into your life (Earthworms being the obvious exception), and that's just not my, well, cup of tea. In terms of the botanical tea, I wouldn't use hot water, I crush all ingredients with a mortar and pestle then let brew anywhere from 24hrs to a week or two. I strain through a fine coffee filter under pressure to remove particulate matter and spray as a foliar, works for me. Ultimately, it's unlikely to 100% rid yourself of PM in late flower, but it's definitely possible to manage the symptoms and keep them under some degree of control until the desired harvest window is less obscured by distance.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Leaf Organics Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 One drastic measure you can take is spray your infected lady with a h2o2 solution and then reinoculate the leaves with aact , this will by you 2 - 3 weeks but is not a permanent solution but will buy you time . I have used this method in Late flower and it works. Cheers Reaf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
420SA Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 One drastic measure you can take is spray your infected lady with a h2o2 solution and then reinoculate the leaves with aact , this will by you 2 - 3 weeks but is not a permanent solution but will buy you time . I have used this method in Late flower and it works. Cheers Reaf Do you dilute the h2o2 with water or do you just use it straight from the bottle? Do you reinoculate directly after spraying h2o2 or do you leave the h2o2 on for a while? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Leaf Organics Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Hi bud Dilute it down to roughly 20ml per L , use 40 volume. The beauty of of h2o2 is the fact that all it is is water with an extra oxygen molecule which is deadly to all microbes and fungi and will leave no residue on the ladies . Once it drys the water just evaporates and with it the extra oxygen molecule. Start with the ratio I gave and do a test piece , what ypu are looking for is bubbling on the infected areas , if it doesn't bubble up your ratio. If you see the bubbling this is good because it's doings it's job. Once dry spray with AACT to reinoculate the plant . As I said this is not a permanent solution but it will by you as much time as you need as you can repeat the process as needed without worries about residues on the flowering ladies. In veg I use my own recipe for PM 10ml canola oil , 5ml coconut oil 3 drops Sunlight soap in 1L warm water. Coconut oil is a natural fungicide and the canola helps with not allowing the PM spores to stick and form on the ladies and the sunlight soap acts as a good spreader. I am a self proclaimed PM master lol.... every winter for years I suffered the PM curse dew to a bad growing area. Cheers Reaf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kimcarsons Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 As reaf says you got to reinoculate the plant. The PM spores are every where. Everywhere. You got to kill it systemically and get your plant to build the immunity. Else they will just keep reappearing. There are different strains too. One strain may be easily killed, another may simply "hibernate" during attack. Fungis are helluva complex things... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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