Drying & Curing

[Toby]

DRYING & CURING.

I thought, Ill share my process on drying and curing.

The information was taken from the web to help me illustrate my process.

There won’t be much time spent on harvesting within this post, but Ill highlight some key points.

Here are some general rules about harvesting marijuana based on trichomes and the colour of the hairs / pistils.

1.If white "hairs" are almost all sticking straight out and trichomes are all still translucent (clear) then your plant is too young and not ready for harvest. Harvesting now will result in low yield and non-potent harvests.

2.The beginning of the harvest window opens when your plant has stopped growing new white "hairs" or pistils and at least 40% of the white hairs have darkened and curled in.

3.Highest level of THC is when many/most of the trichomes have turned milky white / cloudy (when viewed under a magnifier). Trichomes that are milky have the highest levels of THC and contribute to more euphoric and psychoactive effects.

4.The end of the harvest window is when the trichomes have become a darker colour (usually amber/gold). The amber/yellow trichomes contribute to a 'body high' because some of the THC has converted into less psychoactive CBN, which has calming and anti-anxiety effects. With some strains, the trichomes will even turn red or purple!

5.When trichomes start looking grey or withered, the harvest window has passed, and buds will make you sleepy without many psychoactive effects. Usually it takes several weeks (4 or more) from the beginning of the harvest window for this to happen. It's much easier to harvest too early than too late.

Want more of an 'in-your-head' effect? Harvest your buds earlier, when only 40% of hairs have darkened and curled in and more than half of the trichomes are part clear/ part milky or mostly cloudy/milky.

For the "strongest" marijuana buds with the most psychoactive effects, and the highest levels of THC, harvest when almost all trichomes are cloudy/milky.

For more relaxing, anti-anxiety buds, wait until at least some of the milky / cloudy trichomes have darkened to amber. More amber = more relaxing, though the effects may be somewhat less psychoactive. Remember, curing your buds properly for at least 2 weeks to a month will also give them more of an anti-anxiety effect.

When growing your own marijuana plants, you can certainly sample buds off your plant at different stages to get an idea for what your preferences are. It's okay to cut off pieces at a time!

 

Why Do Growers Cure Buds After Harvest?

Here’s what drying and curing properly does for you...

·Breaks down chlorophyll and dramaticallyimproves taste of buds

·Gets rid of the unpleasant “fresh hay” or “cut grass” smell which is common on newly harvested buds

·Brings out the subtle flavors and unique smell of your cannabis strain

·Reduces “harshness” in buds; you’re less likely to start coughing or get a headache

·Buds are less likely to cause anxiety, racing thoughts, or paranoia

·Reduces the chance of mold growing on your buds

·Curing seems to actually increase potency!

 

Ill pick up where I left off with my last harvest. It has been 4 days since the chop and my buds feel dry to the touch. I have tested the branches for dryness. The thinner branches snap while the bigger still has flex in it. That is an indicator that they ready for jarring.

 

I snipped all the buds off their stems and put them in the jars. At the time of jarring the RH was 50%. When I checked 10hrs later it was sitting nicely at 65% RH - cure zone. Ill be opening it every 24 hrs for airing for the 1st 2weeks.

 

STEPS FOR SUCCESSFUL DRYING & CURING EVERY TIME

 

Step 1: Cut down your plant

Some growers cut the plant down at the base and hang the whole plant upside down to dry. Others will cut off branches and hang them to dry. Still others will cut off individual buds so they can lay them out and dry them on a mesh screen or rack.

How should you cut down your plant?

As a general rule, if you live in a very dry area (relative humidity is less than 30%), then you want to leave buds on branches, if possible, so buds dry more slowly.

If you live in a very humid area (relative humidity is greater than 60%), then you may want to trim as much away from your buds as possible, so the drying process happens more quickly.

I personally cut down branches one at a time. 

Step 2: Trim away extra leaves

Before you start drying your buds, most growers will trim away extra leaves.

At the very least, you should trim away all your big fan leaves, though many growers also trim down the little leaves that grow on the buds.

This improves the appearance of your buds, and will provide a smoother experience. Too much leafy matter can make buds harsher.

The amount of leaves you trim off is due to personal preference. However, like the last step, you want to leave more if you live in a very dry area. You want to cut off as much as you can if your area is humid, to help speed up the drying process and prevent mold.

I recommend trimming your buds while wearing disposable gloves, to prevent your hands from getting covered in sticky resin.

You may want to save your trim. These extra leaves are not good to smoke by themselves, but after being dried, the trim can be processed to make marijuana butter or other cannabis extracts.

Step 3: Begin the slow drying process

There are many ways to dry your buds.

Hanging buds upside down to dry is considered the "standard" way of drying. You can get creative when coming up with ways to hang plants upside down.

You can dry buds by hanging them upside down from clothes hangers, string, almost anything you can think of. You can even hang the entire plant upside down. Personally, I prefer to hang buds upside down for the drying process.

The most important aspect of the drying process is to dry them slowly, and in such a way that it’s easy for you to check on them regularly. So don't hide them in the back of a closet that's hard for you to get to. You need to be able to check on your buds every day, and more often is possible (especially during your first few harvests, until you know how buds dry in your personal environment).

Step 5: Place your buds in jars

From this point, your goal is to store your buds in a controlled environment. You want to stabilize the relative humidity at around 60-65% when the buds are placed in an enclosed container. This is the correct environment to cure your marijuana buds to perfection. If you've taken your buds down when the smallest stems snap, but the larger ones bend, then chances are your buds will already create the perfect humidity when they're in the jars.

But for everyone else, here's how to jar your buds the right way every time, without any guesswork on your part.

The ideal storage containers for marijuana buds are wide-mouthed 1ltr preserve glass  jars. These can be found pretty easily at big grocery stores, most craft stores, online, and at superstores. I bought mine direct at Consol for R15. As cannabis cultivation has become more popular, these jars are appearing in more and more stores.

You want mason jars that hold 1 litre (labeled 1ltr preserve jar) Each of these jars will hold about an 30gram of dried buds (usually about 21-35grams of bud will fit in one jar, but it can be more or less depending on the consistency of your buds).

1ltr preserve glass jars have proven to be a great size for proper curing. Bigger jars are more likely to encourage mold - I've learned this one from experience Other types of jars don't seal the right way, and buds usually won't cure. For example, the types of jars that have a rubber seal don't seem to cure buds for me. I always use 1ltr preserve glass jars, and you'll see that the majority of growers do the same.

You want to fill each jar 75-85% full of buds, so there’s still a bit of air at the top. If you shake the jars, you want the buds to be able to move around.

If buds are sticking together in clumps when you try to shake the jar, it means they still have too much moisture and need to be dried further. Just like when buds are too dry, when buds are too wet they slow down the curing process, but it's even worse because it can cause mold. Never let buds sit in jars if they feel wet, or even moist on the outside!

If you notice that any buds feel damp or moist, do not store them in the jars yet! Allow those buds to continue drying slowly until they start to feel dry on the outside before putting them in jars.

Step 6: Curing (first few weeks): Open all jars regularly to inspect and air out buds

During the first few days, you may want to check even more often than once/day, especially if you are worried about mold or too much moisture.

It’s important that you’re checking on your buds at least every 24 hours during the beginning stages, as described below. In addition to checking on your buds, it's also important to open the jars once a day, because buds need fresh air as part of the curing process.

For the impatient, this also gives you the opportunity to “try out” your new buds and see how they improve during the curing process

As mentioned already, the trick to a great marijuana cure is controlling the humidity of the environment. Ideally, you would like to keep your buds stored in an enclosed container with about 60-65%% relative humidity. This is the perfect amount of moist and dry to get the fastest and best curing process.

To be able to get a reading on your current humidity levels (so you can make sure they’re perfect every time), you may want to invest in a tool called a hygrometer.

Use a hygrometer for pro cannabis curing results, as it will allow you to determine exactly where you are in the curing process and spot possible humidity problems before they affect your buds. Even if you only have one, you can put it in different jars during your daily check to get an idea of the RH (relative humidity) in your jars.

Buds need some amount of time “to sweat” in the jar before you can get an accurate reading of how much moisture is really in the jars. Sometime buds which seemed dry when you put them in will feel damp and soggy when you check them a few hours later. This is because the moisture that was contained in the middle has spread out to the rest of the buds, and it means the buds need to be dried further.

A hygrometer will let you measure the relative humidity within your curing jars most precisely.

For the first week, you want to air out your jars for a few moments at least once a day. Just open all the jars and close them again once a day. While the jars are open, check on buds to determine the current humidity levels. You may also take this time to shake the jars and move buds around, to ensure there are no moist spots, and buds aren't sticking together in clumps.

This is what you're checking for every time you open your jars.

Buds feel wet - Wet buds need to be placed outside the jar to dry for another 12-24 hours. Moist buds should not be touching each other! It is very important you react quickly if buds feel damp to the touch, as this is the most likely time for mold to grow.

> 70% humidity - When buds are too wet, your hygrometer will read greater than 70% relative humidity after buds are in jars with hygrometer for 24 hours. If buds are very wet, you may see the humidity climb up this high within just a couple of hours. If you see the humidity rising on your hygrometer at a rate of 1% per hour or more, you may want open the jars early, or at least keep a close eye, as your buds are probably too moist.

Buds feel moist - If you shake the jar at this point, you may notice that some of your buds are still sticking together. You’re almost there, but buds are still a little too damp and you’re at risk for mold. If you live in a normal to dry climate, you may be able to get away with just leaving the top off the jars for 1-4 hours. If you live in a humid climate, you may have to take the buds out of the jars and lay them out until the outsides begin to feel dry again.

65-70% humidity - When buds are slightly moist, your hygrometer will read 65-70% relative humidity after buds are in jars with hygrometer for 24 hours.

Buds are not wet, but also not brittle - You’re in the cure zone! Your buds may feel a bit sticky to your fingers. Buds should move independently and not clump together in big bunches when you shake the jars.

60-65% humidity - When buds are in the cure zone, your hygrometer will read 60-65% relative humidity after buds are in jars with hygrometer for 24 hours.

Buds are too dry - Buds feel brittle and crumbly. At this point, there is not enough moisture in the jars for the curing process to continue at a normal pace, and buds tend to cure much more slowly.

 

IMPORTANT: Keep opening all jars at least once/day for first 1-2 weeks of curing

For the first 1-2 weeks, no matter what readings you get, you should continue checking your buds and opening all the jars once a day. Even if buds are too dry, it’s important to air out the buds quickly once a day this this first stage, as they need air to continue the curing process.

Once you are sure buds have entered the cure zone, maybe after 2-3 weeks, you may start opening the jars just once/week.

That’s it! Perfectly cured buds every time!

[Green Leaf Organics]

I agree with most of that... but the first 2 points i feel are not correct . You should in no way rely on the pistols of a indoor plant to tell you if it's ready or not or even close to ready. Pistol colour and formation is completely strain dependent.

 

Cheers

Reaf

[Guest kimcarsons]

Agreed. Some plants (Outdoors esp) can have two or more harvest windows, with pistils being neither an indication of ripeness nor health/progress. Trichs are always the determining factor imo.

[Toby]

Great guys, thanks.

 

I also of the opinion of going on trichs to ascertain when to harvest.