Ponica Posted December 15, 2021 Share Posted December 15, 2021 (edited) Hi Peeps. Please help me understand, what's up with my plants colors don't look right. I did some research and took some advice from this forum. Some advice not implemented yet because I'm waiting for my stuff to arrive from an online shop. I'm just using buckets with water and nutes. Plants are 1 week apart and the oldest plant is about 3 weeks old. The oldest plant bucket also has an air stone/airpump Water is not PH balanced , I just used normal tap water and have no idea what the PH is. I used the right amount of nutes but I think because of the PH ist not taking them in. I see a leaf with a slightly burnt tip. So maybe my nute ratio is not as right as I think it is. And FYI ,I dont know what strain these are. The rocks in the pics will go and I will replace them with LECA pebbles once my order arrived. PH kit is on the way along with the LECA. Later that dude with the red suit from the north pole will bring me a digital PH meter soon. From some research done online the plants seems to have not have enough calcium and magnesium ? I also raise the lights a little bit because of the curling on some of the leafs seems they are too close to the plants? The tent with a closed door sits at 31C , which I believe is a bit hot ? So I guess I need to ventilate it ? Some pics, Maybe they don't look all that great but Its definitely a step forward for me because my previous attempt didn't work out too well. Previous plant grew 3 finger leaves , at least now I have some 5 fingers. Hopefully soon they will look like real cannabis. For interest sake can I already identify their sex ? Baby steps! Edited December 15, 2021 by Ponica Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dookie69 Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 I don’t have any experience with DWC, as I grow in Coco. I believe your problems are all about PH as you said, and adding supplements to a plant that can’t make use of them thanks to a high pH is a futile exercise. My tap water comes out at a pH of around 8.0 to 8.2 and every single time I mix a new nutrient bucket, I have to add pH down, sometimes a lot, like as much as 2ml in 20l. This is especially the case when I add Silicon which buffers the water in the upper ranges of pH (it is base or alkaline)Plants in Hydro, and especially young plants, prefer a ph of between 5.5 and 5.9 / 6.0.When you get you ph pen you will also notice that ph tends to creep up so you need to adjust the reservoir accordingly.It looks like your plant is suffering from lockout, it’s not getting the nutrients it needs. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponica Posted December 17, 2021 Author Share Posted December 17, 2021 On 12/16/2021 at 7:30 AM, Dookie69 said: I don’t have any experience with DWC, as I grow in Coco. I believe your problems are all about PH as you said, and adding supplements to a plant that can’t make use of them thanks to a high pH is a futile exercise. My tap water comes out at a pH of around 8.0 to 8.2 and every single time I mix a new nutrient bucket, I have to add pH down, sometimes a lot, like as much as 2ml in 20l. This is especially the case when I add Silicon which buffers the water in the upper ranges of pH (it is base or alkaline) Plants in Hydro, and especially young plants, prefer a ph of between 5.5 and 5.9 / 6.0. When you get you ph pen you will also notice that ph tends to creep up so you need to adjust the reservoir accordingly. It looks like your plant is suffering from lockout, it’s not getting the nutrients it needs. Thanks, The "PH" pen arrived. Only problem is it's not a PH pen, its a TDS/PPM/EC meter. Stupid mistake! Can it be used to measure nutrient levels ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponica Posted December 18, 2021 Author Share Posted December 18, 2021 On 12/16/2021 at 7:30 AM, Dookie69 said: I don’t have any experience with DWC, as I grow in Coco. I believe your problems are all about PH as you said, and adding supplements to a plant that can’t make use of them thanks to a high pH is a futile exercise. My tap water comes out at a pH of around 8.0 to 8.2 and every single time I mix a new nutrient bucket, I have to add pH down, sometimes a lot, like as much as 2ml in 20l. This is especially the case when I add Silicon which buffers the water in the upper ranges of pH (it is base or alkaline) Plants in Hydro, and especially young plants, prefer a ph of between 5.5 and 5.9 / 6.0. When you get you ph pen you will also notice that ph tends to creep up so you need to adjust the reservoir accordingly. It looks like your plant is suffering from lockout, it’s not getting the nutrients it needs. So I got a PH pen today and calibrated it using the buffer powder that came it which I mixed with 250ml of battery water at exactly 25c. If I measure the distilled water it reads 7.01 PH which makes sense and seems to be calibrated. I was hoping the water quality was bad because then at least I had something to work with. But it all seems good. Below is my nutrient solutions readings. And below is the PPM (Pen which I bought first thinking it was a PH pen) What else could be wrong here ? Plant seems even worse today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponica Posted December 18, 2021 Author Share Posted December 18, 2021 The plant today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dookie69 Posted December 18, 2021 Share Posted December 18, 2021 You need both a PPM / EC pen and a ph pen. However you should change the reading from ppm to EC. Most of us work in EC.Having said that, Ive just converted your PPM reading of 820 to EC and I get 1.6, which is probably twice the strength of a plant that size.To be sure check for yourself, and let us know the EC. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prom Posted December 19, 2021 Share Posted December 19, 2021 over 800 ppm is more for final flower. For DWC i prefer to let the feeding solution stand for 24 hours, before they get it. Second ph check. Every mistake you do in DWC will instantly effect your plants. I wouldnt start with DWC and learn on soil first, way easier as the soil helps you buffer your mistakes to a certain degree. Clean out and read up what mix is recommended for veg stage with the fertilizer you use... stick to that. DWC demands perfection... wrist multiplied by Pi will not do. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy-z Posted December 19, 2021 Share Posted December 19, 2021 I agree, your ppm should be in the 250-500 range for a plant that small. I would also add a bit of calmag, maybe a teaspoon to that bucket. Good luck & I hope it recovers quickly, those damaged leaves are pretty much DOA, monitor the new growth closely. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponica Posted December 19, 2021 Author Share Posted December 19, 2021 (edited) Switched out the containers for smaller ones Replaced the nutrient water and PH balanced it to a PH of 6 after adding the nutrients (From various online sources PH 5.5 to 6.5 is ok therefore I opted to balance the PH in the middle of that) I followed this chart to the point by making use of a syringe rather than a measuring cup. But instead of following the Hydro/Coco chart I followed the Soil chart. Because based on what you guy are saying the nutrients levels are too high but according to the Tri Part chart its correct. I used the "Growing Column" So now the EC is now sitting at 1.37ec (Still higher what you recommended though) Should I not follow this chart then ? I trimmed out the old burnt leafs. Still light green but looks a little bit better. Could also be fooling my self because I trimmed the dead leafs. For the 3 small baby plants I followed the 1st column (Coco/Hydro) chart to see what will happen. Looks like weed needs much less nutrients then. I have always grown Peppers using my existing method flawlessly with DWC . Below is my Ghost Pepper in the same tent using the nutrient solution which seem to have caused issues with the weed plants. Leafs are massive and plant is in an excellent healthy condition so much so that it looks almost fake. It's also getting less light because its further down in the tent. (Pepper plants needs allot of sun) Edited December 19, 2021 by Ponica Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dookie69 Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 Best to do some research. Dr Coco from Coco for Cannabis (web page, you tube) is a great starting point. Even if you’re not growing in Coco. He explains the difference between NER (Nutrient Element Ratio) vs Nute strength and dilution.Also has a killer method for germination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dookie69 Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 Switched out the containers for smaller ones Replaced the nutrient water and PH balanced it to a PH of 6 after adding the nutrients (From various online sources PH 5.5 to 6.5 is ok therefore I opted to balance the PH in the middle of that) I followed this chart to the point by making use of a syringe rather than a measuring cup. But instead of following the Hydro/Coco chart I followed the Soil chart. Because based on what you guy are saying the nutrients levels are too high but according to the Tri Part chart its correct. I used the "Growing Column" So now the EC is now sitting at 1.37ec (Still higher what you recommended though) Should I not follow this chart then ? I trimmed out the old burnt leafs. Still light green but looks a little bit better. Could also be fooling my self because I trimmed the dead leafs. For the 3 small baby plants I followed the 1st column (Coco/Hydro) chart to see what will happen. Looks like weed needs much less nutrients then. I have always grown Peppers using my existing method flawlessly with DWC . Below is my Ghost Pepper in the same tent using the nutrient solution which seem to have caused issues with the weed plants. Leafs are massive and plant is in an excellent healthy condition so much so that it looks almost fake. It's also getting less light because its further down in the tent. (Pepper plants needs allot of sun) What is the EC of your tap water after having it stand for 24hrs? And your pH? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponica Posted December 26, 2021 Author Share Posted December 26, 2021 Plants are doing much better now. After changing out the water it seem to have helped a little bit but not much. So I added a 1/4 tsp of robertson epsom salt. 3 days later and they look better. Not 100% but at least there is a positive change., The plant on the left still has some "Rust" spots on the leafs. I'm tempted to add another dose of epsom salts. But I will wait a little more before doing so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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