Changing my indoor lights

[Gugu]

Good day, I changed my lighting from HID tubular 250w and 400w to light tubes LED(43w)as the HID consume a lot of electricity i don’t know if I did the right choice or I should get LEDs that higher in watts 

thank you

 

Quote

[DesignatedDave]

You probably going to want an LED light with higher wattage.

Usually the "standard" when using LED is 400w per 1.2m x 1.2m tent, however I find a lot of people (including myself) running around 600w led's in that space.

As far as LED lights go, they come in different "builds" so call it, based on the led chips used.
Ideally you want to aim for lights with Samsung 301H leds and Osram Red leds. This seems to be the current gold standard.
On a slightly cheaper light, but will still get the job done well, you could go with Samsung LM281B with Epistar 660nm led's. these lights are usually cheaper.

To save you the research on lights.

R6 995 Lummi Black 720W bar light - (https://www.gohydro.co.za/products/lumii-black-led-720w-6-bar-fixture). They don't specify what led chips they using, but a lot of people have had great success with them, I have one, but have never used it, so cant comment here.

R8 000 - Meijiu Samsung 301H 480W Quantum Board - ( https://www.gohydro.co.za/collections/lighting/products/meijiu-samsung-301h-full-spectrum-480w-quantum-board )

R8 999 - 650W KingBrite X55 - ( https://plantliving.co.za/products/650w-kingbrite-x55-bar-grow-light ) - Uses Samsung SM281B and Epistar 660nm led's.

R17 900 - Meijiu 650W Samsung 301H LED - ( https://www.gohydro.co.za/products/meijiu-samsung-301h-full-spectrum-650w-bar-fixture-1 )

I think I have maybe over-answered your question here, but yeah, you going to need like 400w of lighting, be it HID or LED. LED runs cooler and provides more brightness for the same wattage.

 

[Gugu]

5 hours ago, DesignatedDave said:

You probably going to want an LED light with higher wattage.

Usually the "standard" when using LED is 400w per 1.2m x 1.2m tent, however I find a lot of people (including myself) running around 600w led's in that space.

As far as LED lights go, they come in different "builds" so call it, based on the led chips used.
Ideally you want to aim for lights with Samsung 301H leds and Osram Red leds. This seems to be the current gold standard.
On a slightly cheaper light, but will still get the job done well, you could go with Samsung LM281B with Epistar 660nm led's. these lights are usually cheaper.

To save you the research on lights.

R6 995 Lummi Black 720W bar light - (https://www.gohydro.co.za/products/lumii-black-led-720w-6-bar-fixture). They don't specify what led chips they using, but a lot of people have had great success with them, I have one, but have never used it, so cant comment here.

R8 000 - Meijiu Samsung 301H 480W Quantum Board - ( https://www.gohydro.co.za/collections/lighting/products/meijiu-samsung-301h-full-spectrum-480w-quantum-board )

R8 999 - 650W KingBrite X55 - ( https://plantliving.co.za/products/650w-kingbrite-x55-bar-grow-light ) - Uses Samsung SM281B and Epistar 660nm led's.

R17 900 - Meijiu 650W Samsung 301H LED - ( https://www.gohydro.co.za/products/meijiu-samsung-301h-full-spectrum-650w-bar-fixture-1 )

I think I have maybe over-answered your question here, but yeah, you going to need like 400w of lighting, be it HID or LED. LED runs cooler and provides more brightness for the same wattage.

 

Thank you very much 

 

5 hours ago, DesignatedDave said:

You probably going to want an LED light with higher wattage.

Usually the "standard" when using LED is 400w per 1.2m x 1.2m tent, however I find a lot of people (including myself) running around 600w led's in that space.

As far as LED lights go, they come in different "builds" so call it, based on the led chips used.
Ideally you want to aim for lights with Samsung 301H leds and Osram Red leds. This seems to be the current gold standard.
On a slightly cheaper light, but will still get the job done well, you could go with Samsung LM281B with Epistar 660nm led's. these lights are usually cheaper.

To save you the research on lights.

R6 995 Lummi Black 720W bar light - (https://www.gohydro.co.za/products/lumii-black-led-720w-6-bar-fixture). They don't specify what led chips they using, but a lot of people have had great success with them, I have one, but have never used it, so cant comment here.

R8 000 - Meijiu Samsung 301H 480W Quantum Board - ( https://www.gohydro.co.za/collections/lighting/products/meijiu-samsung-301h-full-spectrum-480w-quantum-board )

R8 999 - 650W KingBrite X55 - ( https://plantliving.co.za/products/650w-kingbrite-x55-bar-grow-light ) - Uses Samsung SM281B and Epistar 660nm led's.

R17 900 - Meijiu 650W Samsung 301H LED - ( https://www.gohydro.co.za/products/meijiu-samsung-301h-full-spectrum-650w-bar-fixture-1 )

I think I have maybe over-answered your question here, but yeah, you going to need like 400w of lighting, be it HID or LED. LED runs cooler and provides more brightness for the same wattage.

 

 

[Gugu]

On 12/8/2023 at 9:15 AM, DesignatedDave said:

You probably going to want an LED light with higher wattage.

Usually the "standard" when using LED is 400w per 1.2m x 1.2m tent, however I find a lot of people (including myself) running around 600w led's in that space.

As far as LED lights go, they come in different "builds" so call it, based on the led chips used.
Ideally you want to aim for lights with Samsung 301H leds and Osram Red leds. This seems to be the current gold standard.
On a slightly cheaper light, but will still get the job done well, you could go with Samsung LM281B with Epistar 660nm led's. these lights are usually cheaper.

To save you the research on lights.

R6 995 Lummi Black 720W bar light - (https://www.gohydro.co.za/products/lumii-black-led-720w-6-bar-fixture). They don't specify what led chips they using, but a lot of people have had great success with them, I have one, but have never used it, so cant comment here.

R8 000 - Meijiu Samsung 301H 480W Quantum Board - ( https://www.gohydro.co.za/collections/lighting/products/meijiu-samsung-301h-full-spectrum-480w-quantum-board )

R8 999 - 650W KingBrite X55 - ( https://plantliving.co.za/products/650w-kingbrite-x55-bar-grow-light ) - Uses Samsung SM281B and Epistar 660nm led's.

R17 900 - Meijiu 650W Samsung 301H LED - ( https://www.gohydro.co.za/products/meijiu-samsung-301h-full-spectrum-650w-bar-fixture-1 )

I think I have maybe over-answered your question here, but yeah, you going to need like 400w of lighting, be it HID or LED. LED runs cooler and provides more brightness for the same wattage.

 

I bought two of the these lights I don’t know if they good I’m on budget  I still wanna add 2 more 

[DesignatedDave]

16 hours ago, Gugu said:

I bought two of the these lights I don’t know if they good I’m on budget  I still wanna add 2 more 

Ah... the LED light boxes that lie, when I first started growing, these confused the shit out of me because they say 600w, but they only like 60w.

I use these 60w led boards for small clones and when popping new seeds. 

You could try using two of them for 120w, however you are never going to see the growth and yield you would get from say an actual 600w light.

Download an app onto your phone called "Photone" - it will need you to cut a strip of white paper and tape it over your front camera on your phone as a diffuser.
It will then turn your phone into a PAR meter and allow you to measure the amount of PPFD the light it putting out onto your plants (The actual light power being put down on the leaves).
So hold the phone at the height of your plants and take the reading. These are the values you want for ideal growth (outside of co2 supplementation):

Seedling / Clone : 100 - 300 PPFD

Vegetative : 250 - 600 PPFD

Flowering : 500 - 1100 PPFD

I tend to aim for 500 PPFD on veg and around 950 PPFD in flower (although my lights can easily hit around 1500 PPFD on full).

If you are getting below these PPFD levels, you can bring your light closer to increase it, but if it remains below the above ppfd levels, then your plant isn't going to grow very well or produce any decent buds.

 

 

 

 

 

[Naughty.Psychonaut]

@Gugu

Hey bud, hope all is well on your side. 

Everyone probably feels like they on a tight budget, we all always wana make more than we currently do, plus it's not always about who has the. best light or the most light, it's more about how you use it. not for a second would I want anyone to think I "have it all figured out" cause I don't, but something personal I've learnt that's been a big change in my whole outlook on working with money and letting your money work for you is -

The reason people with a bit of extra money buy the more expensive stuff is not cause they "stupid rich" or just spend it cause they have it. There's a certain point at which the scales tip into the "stupid rich" part aswell, no doubt about that, but majority of the time people avoid the very cheapest options cause of the stigma around shopping cheap will have you spending more in the end.... it's bad investments to buy cheap stuff. a person with a bit of money wouldn't buy cheap stuff, cause it's almost always all a loss, where as if you buy something proper and it's a good investment you can use that and turn it around to work for you and make your money back at least or even if the investment is really good it can make more money from it.

if you think about it it's more important for a person on a really tight budget to skip over the cheaper options, if that makes any sense. 

I've got a 300w blurple LED in a box. got it with my first tent as a combo, can't get someone to buy the light off me, also don't really wana sell it to someone with all the new tech out there. now I just keep it as backup or suplemental light. it's marketed at 300w, tested it and it pulls 240w, but it's got fans on a hestsink and what not so I'd say only around 200w goes to the diodes. 

The concept has really shifted now, with those old school HIDs you needed a cool tube or hood with inline fan to cool the whole light down. Then LEDs came along with the first tech being shitty. QB LEDs came and went. The better part of the first LEDs had everything "built in" to one body, so it was plug and play. to ensure better output and longer lifespan of your light you would have the diodes mounted directly on a heatsink with fans blowing on the heatsink to keep everything running cool. Now with the newest tech the diodes are spread out as far as possible so it never even heats up. This also allows for the light coverage to be basically optimal if you in a tent you can have a whole canopy of lights and you can have the light very very close the plants with minimal to no light stress and this also allows for optimal penetration into the plant canopy. The older bigger QBs that ran kak hot also obstructed air flow, you couldn't get the plant close to it cause it's so hot, cause all the light is focussed on one panel in one spot, so you have to raise it far in order to let it spread and cool down to get better coverage then you loose penetration, where the bar style lights allow for free airflow and the airflow also allows the bars to be cooled down passively and everything is better even if you ran with cheaper diodes, but now all that's left is to look at the quality of the diodes. Luckily a team called Horticulture Lighting Group been working on this for years and teamed up with Samsung to bring us some of the very best plant growing diodes on the market for now. So we gotta think about this, cause growing plants is all environment based, it's not about who has the best light or who has the most light. It's how you use it, like they say   

Now I got a DIY 300w LED bar light with a HLG driver and Samsung strips, it can put out 300w but I run her at 280 most of the time just for that extra few years addes at the end when she gets old. no electronic will ever be made that'll last forever, but we can try! If you look around on the internet for a branded LED with the same specs they'll go for up to 8-10k, I got my stuff from the source with some extras, slapped it together myself for 4k . 

 

[Gugu]

@Gugu
Hey bud, hope all is well on your side. 
Everyone probably feels like they on a tight budget, we all always wana make more than we currently do, plus it's not always about who has the. best light or the most light, it's more about how you use it. not for a second would I want anyone to think I "have it all figured out" cause I don't, but something personal I've learnt that's been a big change in my whole outlook on working with money and letting your money work for you is -
The reason people with a bit of extra money buy the more expensive stuff is not cause they "stupid rich" or just spend it cause they have it. There's a certain point at which the scales tip into the "stupid rich" part aswell, no doubt about that, but majority of the time people avoid the very cheapest options cause of the stigma around shopping cheap will have you spending more in the end.... it's bad investments to buy cheap stuff. a person with a bit of money wouldn't buy cheap stuff, cause it's almost always all a loss, where as if you buy something proper and it's a good investment you can use that and turn it around to work for you and make your money back at least or even if the investment is really good it can make more money from it.
if you think about it it's more important for a person on a really tight budget to skip over the cheaper options, if that makes any sense. 
I've got a 300w blurple LED in a box. got it with my first tent as a combo, can't get someone to buy the light off me, also don't really wana sell it to someone with all the new tech out there. now I just keep it as backup or suplemental light. it's marketed at 300w, tested it and it pulls 240w, but it's got fans on a hestsink and what not so I'd say only around 200w goes to the diodes. 
The concept has really shifted now, with those old school HIDs you needed a cool tube or hood with inline fan to cool the whole light down. Then LEDs came along with the first tech being shitty. QB LEDs came and went. The better part of the first LEDs had everything "built in" to one body, so it was plug and play. to ensure better output and longer lifespan of your light you would have the diodes mounted directly on a heatsink with fans blowing on the heatsink to keep everything running cool. Now with the newest tech the diodes are spread out as far as possible so it never even heats up. This also allows for the light coverage to be basically optimal if you in a tent you can have a whole canopy of lights and you can have the light very very close the plants with minimal to no light stress and this also allows for optimal penetration into the plant canopy. The older bigger QBs that ran kak hot also obstructed air flow, you couldn't get the plant close to it cause it's so hot, cause all the light is focussed on one panel in one spot, so you have to raise it far in order to let it spread and cool down to get better coverage then you loose penetration, where the bar style lights allow for free airflow and the airflow also allows the bars to be cooled down passively and everything is better even if you ran with cheaper diodes, but now all that's left is to look at the quality of the diodes. Luckily a team called Horticulture Lighting Group been working on this for years and teamed up with Samsung to bring us some of the very best plant growing diodes on the market for now. So we gotta think about this, cause growing plants is all environment based, it's not about who has the best light or who has the most light. It's how you use it, like they say   
Now I got a DIY 300w LED bar light with a HLG driver and Samsung strips, it can put out 300w but I run her at 280 most of the time just for that extra few years addes at the end when she gets old. no electronic will ever be made that'll last forever, but we can try! If you look around on the internet for a branded LED with the same specs they'll go for up to 8-10k, I got my stuff from the source with some extras, slapped it together myself for 4k . 
 

Thank you very much for taking your time with this information, I’ve been stressed but I got some sight now from your information, I really appreciate it


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[Naughty.Psychonaut]

18 hours ago, Gugu said:

Thank you very much for taking your time with this information, I’ve been stressed but I got some sight now from your information, I really appreciate it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

only a pleasure bro, 

no stress, that light will still get a plant growing, it's actually perfect for seedlings or vegging one plant in a small tent where you have the tent walls the light can be reflected off of. In a big tent or open room that light will fall off to the sides, in a small tent you could fill the space and grow 1 nice sized plant. 

I just wouldn't use that light for flowering, you could, but you probably wont get the best expression out of the plant since the light wont put out sufficient ppfd / par needed for optimal flower production. 

[Gugu]

only a pleasure bro, 
no stress, that light will still get a plant growing, it's actually perfect for seedlings or vegging one plant in a small tent where you have the tent walls the light can be reflected off of. In a big tent or open room that light will fall off to the sides, in a small tent you could fill the space and grow 1 nice sized plant. 
I just wouldn't use that light for flowering, you could, but you probably wont get the best expression out of the plant since the light wont put out sufficient ppfd / par needed for optimal flower production. 

noted


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