Exodus Haze by Kaliman seeds

[CG420za]

Thanks for the reply @Totemic. The fan leaves are killing the light so pulled the ones right at the bottom to let more light in before I saw your post. I did a flush last night, 25L water @5.8

[Toby]

Looking good there CK. What day she at now and how long to go? 

[CG420za]

Awe, thanks @Toby. Today is day 32. Planning to harvest on the 2nd/3rd of March progress dependent.

 

I changed the light cycle again. The trichomes packed on so much in 4 days, I thought it was going miff until I had a closer look. Just a little bummed about the nute burn.

[Toby]

Cool man, they progressing nicely. When you say you changed the light cycle again? What cycle was it on and to what did you change it? 

[CG420za]

Sorry man, not the light cycle. The duration. I'm on 14 off now.

 

Using your fantastic 12/1

[Toby]

Sorry man, not the light cycle. The duration. I'm on 14 off now. Using your fantastic 12/1

Cool man. I cant take credit for the light cycle. Joe Pietri's technique.

I have since changed my light cycle to 6 hrs on and 18 hrs off from day 1 of flowering. I will see how it goes. 

[CG420za]

I say yours coz if it wasn't for your grow log, I probably would have never tried it.

 

That's hectic. So you'll keep the 6/18 all the way through? Did you notice any differences over your previous 12/1 grow?

[Toby]

I say yours coz if it wasn't for your grow log, I probably would have never tried it. That's hectic. So you'll keep the 6/18 all the way through? Did you notice any differences over your previous 12/1 grow?

Shot bud. Glad I could help.

I am keeping logs and comparing every 10 days to check the differences. So far i cant see physical differences, I hope the buds are nice and solid and not airy, but ja experiments are fun when the work out,lol

[CG420za]

Awe brah, I'll be asking you a bit more. I wanna try soil for my next grow.

 

That's interesting that there's no physical difference. Considering she's getting alot less light. You'll only be able to tell on your yield. Are you growing the same strain?

 

Kykie, where must I leave your clones brah?

[Toby]

This is from the Joe Pietri files.

Why does 6 on 18 off work so well?

 

JOSEPH R. PIETRI

[ltr]Why does 6 on 18 off in flower work? Cannabis can only uptake 6 hours of light energy for photosynthesis, its tanks are full, when you give it more light energy, the plant goes into photosynthesis protection, which use up energy and shuts down CO2 intake. So now you are using the energy received to its utmost potential, no energy wasted, no CO2 shutdown, the plant now has 18 hours to grow fatter buds and produce more resin than ever before. 6 on 18 off in flower is the game changer. All they ever taught you was to spend thousands to make hundreds. 12-1 6-18 is direct aid to all growers. Fuck the status quo.[/ltr]

 

 

Some more info

 

6 hour finish

By Joseph R. Pietri 

Since the dawn of time, farmers have understood the role of light in plant growth; it wasn’t until the beginning of the twentieth century that we began to understand the importance of darkness. In 1913, the French graduate student Julien Tournois discovered that hops and hemp grown under glass would flower precociously in winter. He also observed that the plants would flower most rapidly when allowed only six hours of daylight[1].

Tournois’s research ended when he died on the front during World War I, but a few years later two American scientists, Wrightman Garner and Harry Allard, unwittingly expanded upon Tournois’ findings. Wrightman and Allard discovered that certain plants bud more readily when they sense a change in seasons, or rather: Certain plants will begin to bud when they sense a change in the ratio of daylight hours to nighttime hours. Garner and Allard immediately saw the implications for agriculture. They began experimenting on a range of plant species and discovered that day length influences many aspects of plant activity, including dormancy, flowering, and potential yield[2]. In 1920 they noted: “under the influence of a suitable length of day, precocious flowering and fruiting may be induced[3].”

Garner and Allard invented a word to describe a plant’s sensitivity to day length: Photoperiodism. Photoperiodism is a biological response to a shift in the proportions of light and dark in a 24-hour cycle. Photoperiodic plants measure

hours of darkness in order to keep track of the seasons and thus flower at an appropriate time of year.

The two scientists began classifying plants as long-day plants (LDP), day-neutral plants (DNP), and short-day plants (SDP). Day-neutral plants can flower at any time of year, depending on other conditions. Long-day plants flower naturally in high summer, when the nights are shortest. Short-day plants flower naturally when the nights are long: either in early spring or in late summer and early autumn. Short-day species include chrysanthemums, poinsettias, cosmos, globe amaranth, rice, hyacinth bean, and some varieties of marigold, orchid, and strawberry; as well as and a number of other high-value specialty crops.

Short-day is actually something of a misnomer: short-day plants sense darkness, not light. When sensors in your plant’s leaves indicate that each 24-hour cycle includes 12 or more hours of sustained, uninterrupted darkness, your plant’s apical meristems (growing tips) will shift priorities: instead of producing more leaves and stems, the plant will begin to produce floral structure.

In Photoperiodism in Plants, Thomas and Vince-Prue expand upon the concept: ”Perhaps the most useful proposal is that of Hillman (1969), who defined photoperiodism as a response to the timing of light and darkness. Implicit in this definition is that total light energy, above a threshold level, is relatively unimportant, as is the relative lengths of the light and dark period. What is important is the timing of the light and dark periods, or, to think of it another way, the times at which the transition between light and dark take place.”

Biologist P.J. Lumsden also emphasized the importance of precise timing, noting: “…photoperiodic responses require a time-measuring mechanism, to which is closely coupled a photoperception system. Further, the time-keeping mechanism must operate very precisely and it must be insensitive to unpredictable variations in the

environment.”

In other words: absolute darkness is not necessary to trigger a photoperiodic response in SDP, but consistency of dark-to-light ratios is essential. During a 1938 experiment on the effects of light on xanthium, Karl Hamner and James Bonner discovered that the benefits of a long night could be reduced or abolished if the darkness was interrupted for even a few minutes[4]. The converse was not true: the flowering process was not reversed when the daylight hours were interrupted with

darkness.

Growers of SDP crops have been using light deprivation research to their advantage for decades. For example, poinsettia farmers use automated greenhouses to ensure that plants bloom for the Christmas season. More recently, light deprivation technology has caught on in other specialty gardening industries.

Light deprivation is an ideal method for farmers who want to bring a crop to market before the market floods during the harvest season. The method also allows farmers to avoid potential rain damage by harvesting when weather conditions are ideal. Perhaps more importantly, light deprivation offers the opportunity to plant and harvest twice during one growing season and thereby double annual yield.

To utilize light dep, farmers plant crops in hoop houses or greenhouses, which are covered with opaque material for a period of time each morning or evening. The goal is to block sunlight and increase the number of hours the crop spends in darkness: more than 12 hours of darkness will stimulate flower growth in most SDP plants. The challenge is to keep the schedule consistent and to ensure that the darkness is not interrupted, either by unseen rips in the covering, shifts in the covering caused by wind, or human error. As Hamner and Bonner demonstrated, interruptions or inconsistencies in the light deprivation cycle can confuse the plant and slow flower growth.

 

If it works it works, if not I have learnt it doesnt work. 

[Surv0]

following this.

 

first time ive heard of this and quite interested. some proper science behind it.

[BUDdy420]

interesting with the science, going to be keeping a close eye, because dam thats interesting

[CG420za]

Morning guys. Some help please! So I've been having issues with nute burn, well at least that what I thought it was., Thursday past I flushed my plant with clean water @5.8.

 

They've slowly gotten worse and I've only been watering @5.8 since then. Do you think it could be nute burn? A potassium deficiency? I'm not getting yellow leaves, just the burnt tips that looks to be spreading up the leaf and it's on the sugar leaves. Lower fan leaves just have the burnt tips.

 

Any ideas?

[Totemic]

If its not responding, have you considered drifting the ph a bit, maybe up to 6.0. I have found that drifting the ph slowly between 5.7 and 6.2 breaks a nutrient lock. If she is not responding there at 5.8, drift it a bit.

 

[CG420za]

Thanks @Totemic, I'll give it a try. No nutes or half measure? Does it look more like lockout to you?

[Totemic]

I would go at half strength, or even a half strength calmag before returning to your nutes. It is locking out a bit.

[CG420za]

Day 43...

 

@Totemic, I let the pH drift as recommended. The leaves got a little worse but it seems to have stopped. Thank you for the advice. Slowly bringing her back to 5.8. Also giving calmag with every nute feed 2ml calmag to 3.8L (I half that feed and give every 2nd day).  Water with calmag between feeds. Too much?

 

Boys and girls, this is what happens when you don't buffer your coco.

 

I read that when adjusting your pH with up or down, you shouldn't add it to your mix directly. When you do and you see your mix go cloudy, that's the calmag precipitating. I noticed this one or two times. That would probably explain why at had the lockout. Anyways, lesson learnt. Mix your up or down in a glass of water, add little bits to your mix and see what you're hitting.

 

@Toby check my shitty looking clone/mother box, lol! I'm working on something better. I'm trying to reveg my clones coz they went into flower standing outside.

[Sacred Seeds]

@CerealKilla I think I will also consider the PH drift as suggested by @Totemic in case DP doesn't improve by the next feeding.

[CannabisKid]

Beautiful plant mate. Short and stocky!

 

Beautiful buds

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CG420za]

Awe guys! Post number 420! Happy Friday!

 

We finally chopped my lady down last night, took us a good few hours. I lost some bud from my 2 biggest colas to bud rot. 23.8g to be exact. High RH (65-80) is a bitch, next upgrade is definitely a proper extraction fan.

 

Total wet weight after trimming, before washing was 541.71g I estimate the actual weight to be in the range of 600g plus because some buds couldn't be weighed correctly coz of the over hang.

 

This was the best I could do last night, I will snap some later this evening...

[Toby]

Awe, congrats bud. Enjoy the fruits of your labour.

[CG420za]

Thanks @Toby... 420's gonna be good this year

[gdogg]

Niiice one bru!!!!

[Deebo420]

Great stuff, bro ... well done

[CG420za]

Sadly I found more bud rot guys and obviously it was the hardest buds affected... I was powerless in the last 2 days before harvest. I had my cab door open wide, but there wasn't enough air moving through my buds. Couldn't take her out of the cab coz she couldn't support her own weight.

 

So after checking for more rot, my total dry weight is 94.4g in the jars. The buds are hardish and very very frosty. I've had some good skyf in my day, but nothing that looks like this. So I'm pretty fucking excited! Curing day 3 now.